In 2000, High Performance Pontiac magazine featured a wide-ranging interview with Bill Porter, chief designer at the GM Design Center, and studio chief at Pontiac Styling through 1979, the meat of development years for the second-generation Pontiac Firebird. By the time he’d worked his way up to studio chief, he said, the first-generation Firebird was just about wrapped up. “I never identified with that car personally,” he said. “But that ’70½ second-generation Firebird was another story altogether. I was absolutely crazy about that car from day one and I really threw myself into it. I put the best designers on it, and we were consciously trying to create an important American sports car. We knew we had our chance, and we wanted to do it bad.”

They did, and it was bad, in the best sense of the term. With the exception of the Corvette, the Trans Am and the Formula 400 were the baddest street cars available at that time, cramming high-horsepower 400-cubic-inch V-8s into a platform built to turn as well as it took off in a straight line. The Camaro was tough enough, but the Pontiac Firebird—with its own interior and exterior design staff and engineering teams—kept Pontiac on the map during some exceedingly grim years in the 1970s.

Of course, the Trans Am and Formula 400 get the attention, but lower-trim cars like the Esprit were massively popular. Long before Burt Reynolds drove a Trans Am in 1977, Jim Rockford put a series of brown Esprits in millions of American living rooms. Sales commensurately took off and stayed elevated throughout the entire decade, almost until the very end of production.

From the beginning, the Firebird was a driver’s car, and not just for drivers of the hot-performing trim levels. It went right down to the base car, and everybody involved with the Firebird’s production wanted to deliver a holistic driving experience.

Good ergonomics, for example, were a Firebird standard feature in every trim level. “Too many people cling to the notion that the inside of a sports car—especially a low-budget sports car—is a wind-in-the-face, knees-in-the-chest, pain-in-the-neck,” read the promotional material. Even the back seat gets a mention for its overall comfort, comparing its relative spaciousness to international sports cars that considered the rear seat an afterthought better suited for bag lunches than human occupation.

The basic shapes of the interior were similar to the Camaro, but as Porter mentioned in his interview, there was a unique synergy between the inside and the outside of a second-gen Firebird that might have been a bit lacking in the Chevrolet. “One of the design approaches pioneered in the ’70½ F-car and that’s coming into the industry in a more widespread way is the integration of the interior and exterior,” he said.

John Shettler designed the interior of the Firebird to mimic shapes that were used on the outside of the car. “I actually had templates taken off the grille openings and the nose profile,” said Porter. “John used those for the seatback shapes, the instrument panel cowl shapes . . . so that the exact same curves were used through the interior and exterior of the car. When you open the door of a Firebird, there is—I would like to think—a subliminal sense of the unity of the interior and exterior.”

John DeLorean—at the time general manager of the Pontiac Division—exerted his own influence on the interior design. “[I]f your hand didn’t fall right where it should’ve been when you reached for the shifter, or maybe for a switch, [DeLorean] and Johnny [Shettler] would talk about it, make modifications and try again,” said Porter. “Everyone involved with that vehicle wanted it to be really good, not only from a performance standpoint, but from an ergonomic standpoint.”

Like all cars of the era, the Firebird was challenged by increasing restrictions from the EPA and corporate mandates, by inflation, and by the general malaise that overtook the country, but it simply didn’t seem to hurt what most Americans considered to be a fun, good-looking mode of daily transportation. Especially in the early years of production, it wasn’t the Trans Am or the Formula 400 that kept customers flowing into Pontiac showrooms. From 1970 to 1976, it was the Esprit and the base trim Firebird that represented the largest sales volumes. That’s kind of fascinating for a car that has long been synonymous with the excess of the era.

1970

Depending upon who you talk to, the second-gen Firebird was a 1970 or a 1970½. Porter talks about the half-year, but the brochure clearly identifies it as a 1970. Regardless, the Camaro and Firebird debuted within a day of each other, on February 25 and February 26, 1970.

Like the Camaro, these cars were built at the Norwood, Ohio, and Van Nuys, California, plants. Later in the production run—from ’72 to ’77—Norwood exclusively built Firebirds. Cars built in Norwood will have an “N” in the fourth digit of the VIN from 1970 to 1971, in the sixth digit of the VIN from 1972 to 1980, and in the ninth digit in 1981, when the 17-digit VIN finally arrived. Van Nuys cars will all have an “L” (for Los Angeles) in the same positions.

Pontiac offered four trim levels in 1970: The “basic Firebird,” as identified in the sales brochure, the Esprit, the Formula 400, and the Trans Am.

“Economy is what the basic Firebird is all about,” read the copy, leaning on the car’s overall value proposition rather than its performance. The Endura nose, for example, is called out for its long-lasting resistance to dents and chips and its imperviousness to rust. The long door with no rear quarter window is identified for ease of access to the rear seat.

The base car sadly avoided the Pontiac-specific overhead-cam straight-six in favor of Chevrolet’s 250-cubic-inch six, though a Pontiac-specific 350-cid V-8 was available. Horsepower jumped from 155 in the six to 255 in the V-8, with the larger engine putting out an impressive 355 lb-ft of torque. It made a base 1970 Firebird with a 350 and a Hurst-shifted four-speed a smoking bargain.

The Esprit was marketed as a “luxury” Firebird, but not at the expense of performance. “We never let luxury get in the way of sport,” read the promotional materials. “You won’t find anything frivolous or wasteful about Esprit’s kind of luxury.” And you won’t, especially through a modern lens. “Luxury” includes things like knit vinyl upholstery (along with straight vinyl and cloth options), an available console, storage pockets in the doors, and “soft, squeezable vinyl” wrapping the wheel. Even in the “luxurious” Esprit, power steering was still an option, but you did get chrome window opening trim, and a 15/16-inch front stabilizer bar.

A differentiator from the Camaro was the fact that the Esprit was only available with a V-8 engine, either the base 350 or a 265-horse 400-cid V-8 with almost 400 lb-ft of torque. You could buy an Esprit with a manual transmission, but only the three-speed, and only with the 350. The Esprit with a 400 came exclusively with a TH350 automatic.

In nearly every way, the Formula 400 may have been the best car in the Firebird lineup for 1970. With its lack of spoilers, side scoops, and tape stripes, the Formula is a much cleaner design, hewing close to the car’s original sketches and avoiding nearly all identifying markers except for the fender callouts. The brochure called the styling “almost stark.” Dual exhaust, a flexible fan, fat front and rear stabilizer bars, and F70-14 tires were all part of the trim level.

The Firebird 400 featured—as the name implies—the 400-cid V-8, delivering 330 hp and 430 lb-ft of torque. The 400 could also be had with the 345-horse Ram Air III package (the same engine was rated at 366 hp in the GTO), though fewer than 700 were so-equipped. The Hurst-shifted three-speed was the base transmission, with a four-speed or an automatic transmission on the options list. The optional Ram Air twin-snorkel hood scoop was a particular bone of contention for Bill Porter. “I always kind of wished the double-scooped hood that became the Formula hood—originally done for the Trans Am—would have prevailed [as the hood for the Trans Am] because it’s functionally superior,” he said. “Those twin boundary scoops up front really gulp in the air.”

Top shelf was the Trans Am, with its spoilers, air extractors, and shaker scoop, all of which was functional. The 345-horse Ram Air III came standard in the T/A, while the 370-horse Ram Air IV 400 was an option that only 88 buyers took advantage of. The stabilizer bars are the thickest available for 1970, with 1¼-inch up front and 7/8-inch in the rear. Heavy-duty shocks, Rally II wheels without trim rings, and F70-15s rounded out the handling package.

There were 15 color options in 1970, and that year, Pontiac produced 18,874 base Firebirds, 18,961 Esprits, 7708 Formulas, and just 3196 Trans Ams. Watch that Trans Am number between now and 1979, because it goes through some wild fluctuations.

1971

The biggest news for 1971 was in the engine room of the Formula and Trans Am trims. The Formula now offered the two-barrel 350 and a four-barrel 400, and the cars were identified as “Formula 350” and “Formula 400.” Then there was the Formula 455, which shared the 455-cubic inch V-8 with the Trans Am. Compression ratios had dropped across the board, but the 455 was available in two flavors: The four-barrel 455 delivered 255 net horsepower (though gross horsepower was still listed in the brochure), with 455 lb-ft of torque. Then there was the 455 HO, with 305 net horsepower and a Wide Oval–boiling 480 lb-ft of torque.

Several trim items were revised, too, including fake side air extractors all the way down to the base Firebird, a new console-like armrest with an ashtray between the rear seats, and new Polycast honeycomb wheels. Bill Porter designed those himself, with the help of Maurice “Bud” Chandler, with whom Porter shares a patent. “It was inspired by Buckminster Fuller’s geodesic domes that I had admired since I was a student,” said Porter. “The idea of doing a wheel with a deep cell structure that would be inherently strong, not only radially but laterally, was intriguing.” Porter’s intent was to make the wheels completely aluminum, but that never made it to production. Instead, they were Polycast, “much to my regret,” said Porter. “In the Polycast approach, all of the structural requirements are taken care of by the underlying stamped steel wheel. The honeycomb pattern—now an injection molded appliqué—merely goes along for the ride, reduced to just so much pastry icing, only there for its decorative pattern.”

For 1971, again, 15 colors were available. Pontiac produced 23,021 Firebirds, 20,185 Esprits, 7802 Formulas in all three engine sizes, and 2116 Trans Ams.

1972

The Firebird underwent some exterior changes in 1972, including a new honeycomb grille pattern that mirrored the design of the Polycast wheels. Inside, the front seats all featured a new high-back design, the third consecutive year the front bucket seat design changed. In 1970, the low-back seats had small individual headrests. In 1971, the seat backs got slightly taller and the headrests left. And for 1972, the headrest was fully integrated into the high-back design, which would essentially carry through until the end of second-generation Firebird production.

Power outputs took it on the chin across the board, with the 250-cubic-inch six dropping to 110 hp, the 350 two-barrel to 160 hp, the 400 two-barrel to 175, and the 400 four-barrel to 250 hp. The standard 455 in the Formula 455 and Trans Am was eliminated for 1972, focusing solely on the HO, which dropped to 300 hp and 415 lb-ft of torque. (Some of the change in output coincided with the switch from SAE gross to SAE net calculations.)

The VIN code change for 1972 is significant. Prior to 1972, the only engine identification in the VIN was that V-8 cars had serial numbers starting at 100001, and six-pluggers started at 600001. From 1972 through 1980, the VINs got much more specific, helping future owners understand the DNA profile of their Firebirds. These letter designations change through the years, though they are fairly consistent for the next three model years. For a more explicit breakdown, visit PontiacFormula.Free.fr:

• D = 250-cid
• M = 350-cid 2-barrel, single exhaust
• N = 350-cid 4-barrel, dual exhaust
• P = 400-cid 2-barrel, dual exhaust
• R = 400-cid 4-barrel, single exhaust
• T = 400-cid 4-barrel, dual exhaust
• X = 455-cid HO 4-barrel, dual exhaust

Fifteen colors were again available in 1972. Thanks to a UAW strike, this is the lowest-production year for the second-generation Firebird, with just 12,000 base cars, 11,415 Esprits, 5250 Formulas, and a scant 1286 Trans Ams.

1973

It’s interesting to consider just how far ahead Pontiac was with the Firebird compared to the Camaro. Over at Chevrolet, there was hustling afoot to make the split bumper comply with new 2.5-mph crash requirements. The second-generation Firebird was born with it, thanks to the Endura bumper, which required no design changes to comply, regardless of trim level. The slender rear bumpers were beefed up a bit, but still chrome.

Inside, the Esprit got a “Custom Interior” as standard, with deeply scooped bucket seats, a grab handle on the dash for the passenger, rear ashtrays, a fitted rubber trunk mat, and a body-color insert on the exterior door handles. The Custom Interior package was optional on the Formula and Trans Am.

And most notably, the exterior of the Trans Am featured—for the first time—the bird decal on the hood that had been an emblem and a small decal in prior years. Porter said he sketched it roughly on a napkin and had intended it for the 1970 Trans Am. Norm Inouye—who later attained greater fame for designing the logo for Disney’s EPCOT Center—worked out the graphics, and Porter had it applied on two concept cars. “[GM styling chief Bill] Mitchell saw it in the paint shop and just went into one of his horrible tantrums. I was back in the studio. He called me up and I had to hold the phone away from my ear. That was the end of that,” said Porter.

But three years later, designer John Schinella had another bite at the apple. Schinella had worked on the Chaparral 2, the Mako Shark II, the ’67 Camaro, and the ’68 Corvette, before making his way to Pontiac. In a 2014 interview I conducted with Schinella for Bangshift.com, Schinella shared that Mitchell was driving a Trans Am in custom John Player Special livery that had been a show car. Schinella had a set of gold foil decals made up, applied them to the John Player Special car Mitchell was driving, and parked it outside Mitchell’s office. Evidently, that was enough to seal the deal for the hood bird to reach production.

Power reset again for 1973, with a paltry 100 hp for the inline-six, 150 for the 350 two-barrel, 170 for the 400 two-barrel, and 230 for the 400 four-barrel. The 455 HO disappeared, and in its place were the 455 four-barrel with 250 hp, and—one of the last significant muscle car–era engines—the 455 Super Duty with 310 hp.

A choice of 16 colors provided the most extensive palette to date, and seven vinyl top colors expanded the range as well. Five interior colors were available, but only two were available in cloth trim. Production picked back up to more normal levels, with 14,096 Firebirds, 17,249 Esprits, 10,166 Formulas, and 4802 Trans Ams.

1974

The 5-mph federal bumper standards came into effect for the 1974 model year, and it changed the nose of the second-generation Firebird for the first time. As a result, the Endura bumper morphed into something that was much more in line with the design of the Camaro.

The bumper itself is interesting and unique to the Firebird. Instead of the aluminum bumper that the Camaro had, the Firebird got a full rubber bumper, along with bumperettes that were all cast in one giant rubber piece. A body-color Endura chin piece covered most of it and provided the housings for the lower air intakes and marker lights.

Inside, seat belts changed to a three-point design, which moved through a seat-mounted holder, along with an inertia reel.

Power steering moved to the standard features list for all Firebirds, while power brakes became standard on the Trans Am. The fuel tank increased from 18 gallons to 21. Mechanical changes also included the late introduction of HEI ignition on the 400 and 455 engines, beginning around May 1, 1974. The balance of the engines kept their points distributors.

Sixteen colors made up the paint options. Production ramped in a big way, with 26,372 Firebirds, 22,583 Esprits, 14,519 Formulas, and Trans Ams broke the five-digit mark for the first time, with 10,255 units.

1975

The HEI distributor made its way to all Firebirds for the 1975 model year, and that’s probably the only positive news for performance. It was part of what the brochure pitched as “The Pontiac Travel Plan,” which included radial tires and a catalytic converter. The 455 bowed out, and the Trans Am instead featured a 400 four-barrel just like the Formula.

There were only minor exterior updates again, including the ever-moving marker lamps, which now moved up to the grille inserts. Like the Camaro, this was the year the Firebird got a wraparound rear window for better visibility, made more crucial because of the high-back bucket seats.

The brochure shows a new AM/FM stereo as an option, along with infant and child love seats (GM-branded baby seats), which were a first-time option for the Firebird. Again, 16 colors were available, but black was not one of them. Production dipped slightly to 22,293 Firebirds, 20,826 Esprits, 13,670 Formulas, and—in what would now be a relentless march skyward for the next four years—27,274 Trans Ams.

1976

Most of the changes for 1976 were cosmetic, but they seem rather dramatic in some cases. Take the Formula, for example: The twin scoop hood was still there, but it was drastically scaled back for 1976, with the two nostrils almost vestigial and moved back at least 10 inches on the hood.

Two full model years before the Camaro had them, the Firebird sported monochrome bumper covers rather than the aluminum bumper employed over at Chevrolet. It made the Firebird look much more modern, and it provided some interesting color contrast between the standard Firebird and the Formula, which now had more elaborate lower colors and graphics. The “Canopy” vinyl roof was new for 1976, essentially a reverse landau top with the vinyl over the front passenger compartment.

Hurst T-Tops were available for the first time in 1976, a late-enough option that they didn’t make the brochure that year. They were only available on the 1976 Trans Am Special Edition and had unique, one-year-only weatherstripping that both sealed the T-Tops and held up the headliner. The design changed in 1977 to a plastic trim held in with a series of screws. The Hurst T-Tops used between 1976 and 1978 were smaller—only 30¼ inches x 17½ inches wide—and left a foot of roof between the two panels.

In the engine room, things carried on pretty much as before, with a 250-cubic-inch inline-six as the standard in the Firebird, with a jump up to a 350 as an option. Formulas had a TH350 automatic as standard equipment, which was optional on all other trims.

There were 14 colors for 1976. This was the first year when Trans Am production really started to raise some eyebrows. The Firebird still sold respectably at 21,209 units, with another 22,252 for the Esprit. The Formula still sold well at 20,613, but the Trans Am massively outpaced all other Firebird trims at 46,701 cars.

1977

You can make arguments for the merits of Firebird design prior to 1977, but this is the Trans Am that everyone remembers, thanks to the second-most popular movie that year behind Star Wars. For the first time, the Trans Am was the halo car, showcased prominently on the cover and the opening spread of the Pontiac brochure.

The biggest obvious change was the nose, with a phoenix-like beak, and four DOT-certified rectangular  headlamps, set deep into the grille. The front fascia is one continuous piece, and it set the stage for more elaborate soft bumper covers to come. Incredibly, this icon of Pontiac design was around for just two years before it underwent a significant change in 1979.

The initial 1977 Trans Ams had shaker scoops that were recessed a bit into the hood, before a design change made the scoop more prominent later in the production year. Formulas also got another revision to their twin-nostril scoops, which moved them from the center of the hood to the leading edge, for a more aggressive look. Formulas and Trans Ams both shared the iconic chrome quad exhaust outlets.

Wheel and wheel cover designs changed as well, with Trans Ams using the Rally II as the base offering, while new cast aluminum wheels to replace the old honeycombs were available on all trim levels. Firebird, Esprit, and Formula all had a spoked wheel cover available as an option, a tragedy for any Formula.

Sadly, the lesser Firebirds really started to get pushed to the back of the line, though they did have their own redesign for 1977. With it came the all-new 3.8-liter Buick V-6, years before the Camaro would finally move away from the mid-1960s–era 250 as the base engine. The Buick 3.8-liter was as good here as it was in the rest of GM’s lineup, providing 105 hp and 185 lb-ft of torque. For the first time, the Esprit would start out with a six-cylinder as the base engine.

The Formula also got serious engine revisions, including an all-new Pontiac 301-cubic-inch two-barrel V-8 as the base engine, which providied 130 hp. That engine was optional on both the Firebird and the Esprit, along with an Oldsmobile 350 with a four-barrel that was available on all three lower trims. A Chevy 305 would come in later as well. The larger engine options in the Formula and Trans Am got even more busy. The 180-horse L78 400 Pontiac engine was available only with an automatic and was visually identified by the “6.6 Litre” on the Trans Am’s shaker scoop. The hotter 200-horse W72, denoted by the “T/A 6.6” on the scoop, was available with a manual or automatic. California and high-altitude locations got a 403-cubic-inch Oldsmobile V-8 rated at 185 hp.

New for 1977 was the Sky Bird, which was an appearance package only available on the Esprit. It featured blue velour seats, two-tone blue paint, cast aluminum wheels with unique blue-painted inserts, a dark blue rear panel, blue grille panels, and accent stripes.

Colors became more limited in 1977, with just 13 offered. All sales ticked up in 1977: The Firebird sold 30,642 cars, the Esprit 34,548, and the Formula 21,801, while Trans Am sales grew to 68,745.

1978

Styling didn’t change much at all, with a gold Trans Am stealing the show on the cover and the first spread in the brochure. There were slight revisions, with the grille surrounds in black, but otherwise, the design went essentially unchanged.

The T-Tops were still the Hurst design, featuring screwed-in plastic pieces that held up the headliner. Continuing through the interior, cruise control appeared on the options list. The radios included a new AM/FM stereo with a digital readout, though it was still an analog tuner.

Power increased on the W72 6.6-liter V-8 to 220 horses, making it the engine to have. Some sources note that it was partway through the ’78 model year that the automatic ceased to be available with the W72.

While the Camaro offered just nine colors, the Firebird palette grew to 14. Sales for 1978 saw growth across the board, with the Firebird at 32,672, Esprit at 36,926, Formula at 24,346, and the Trans Am at a staggering 93,341 units.

1979

Depending on who you ask, 1979 might be the last year for the “real” second-generation Trans Am. It marked the end of 400-cubic inch V-8 production.

The basic shape was unchanged, but it was bookended by radically different front and rear fascias. The front was a return to something similar to the Endura nose, a rubberized nose cover unbroken by anything but low-mounted grille openings with the marker lights at the outside edges, and four headlamp buckets. The nose design was shared throughout the Firebird lineup, with the exception of the Trans Am’s chin spoiler.

At the rear, the pads on the bumpers mirrored the design of the grille up front. Replacing the individual taillamps was a full-width red panel that hid the fuel filler and incorporated the lights, predating designs that used full-width LED lamps by 40 years.

The 10th Anniversary Trans Am was a bona fide hit, with a ton of unique features that had never been available before, including mirrored T-Tops, leather seats, and a hood bird that reached the front fenders for the first time. These cars had their own unique X87 VIN code and only one option: The Olds 403 with an automatic, or the Pontiac 400 with the four-speed. Base price was a hefty $10,620, or nearly $46,000 in 2024 dollars.

If there’s one thing to take note of for 1979, it’s that it was all Trans Am. The Formula Firebird rated exactly one picture in the Pontiac brochure. The Esprit and Firebird none at all, though the Esprit did have a special package in the Red Bird, which replaced the Sky Bird. It was essentially the same idea but red instead of blue.

Mechanical changes were few but presaged what was coming in 1980: For the first time, the Trans Am was available with a small-block V-8, the 301 that was optional in the standard Firebird. High-altitude cars were available for the last time with a Chevrolet 350, and California was only offered the optional 305.

There was also the addition of four-wheel disc brakes as part of the WS6 package, which included fat stabilizer bars and wide 8-inch wheels. The big issue was the take rate on the package, which caused supply chain issues and resulted in Pontiac offering a WS7 package that included everything but the brakes.

The T/A was so immensely popular in 1979 that the last page of the brochure featured a pitch for a limited-edition 20 x 50-inch poster of the car, which was available for $2. Again, 14 colors were offered, and 1979 marked the most popular year ever for the nameplate: Pontiac sold 38,642 Firebirds and 30,852 Esprits (the first year that trim level had seen a dip since 1975). The Formula managed to hold steady at 24,851 cars. For Trans Am sales, though, hold onto your hats: 117,108 cars were produced, a number it would never come close to again.

1980

The Turbo Trans Am got a bad rap in its day, but it’s actually a more exciting car than most people thought in 1980. That year’s 301 wasn’t the run-of-the-mill engine that it had been in years prior. The block was beefier, along with the head gasket and pistons, and there was a high-pressure oil pump. The turbocharger was electronically controlled and was shipped over to Pontiac from Buick, which knew a thing or two about turbocharging. The Garrett TBO-305 delivered 9 psi of boost and used a modified Q-Jet four-barrel and a knock sensor, just like the early T-Type from Buick. (Imagine what might have happened if the second-gen had hung around long enough to steal the Grand National’s later setup . . .)

The engine delivered 210 hp, which wasn’t much to get excited about, but torque was respectable at 345 lb-ft. Sadly, this engine was crying out for a manual but only got an automatic, with a 3.08 rear gear to boot. That put the kibosh on any enthusiasm for the car, as did the 17.02-second quarter-mile that Car and Driver reported that year.

The other major intro for 1980 was the Indy Pace Car, 5700 of which were built in Cameo White with gray details. The Esprit had one more trick up its sleeve with the Yellow Bird appearance package, which continued the legacy of the Sky Bird and Red Bird before it.

This was also the first full year of the Fisher T-Top, which replaced the Hurst T-Tops that required cars be shipped out to Hurst for modification. Now they were built right at Fisher Body, and the modified design addressed a few issues. First, instead of having two latches at front and rear, the Fisher T-Tops had just one latch, with pins at the front and rear that extended into matching holes in the roof. They were also 3 inches longer, stretching back to match the side window opening. And they were each 5 inches wider, leaving a narrow strip of just 4 inches of steel roof between the two panels. If there’s anything truly improved about the 1980 model year, it’s the T-Top design.

Pontiac offered 15 colors in 1980. The Firebird’s sales glory came to an end that year, with every trim level seeing significant drops. The Firebird sold 29,811 units. The Esprit dropped to 17,277, and the Formula was barely on life support, with 9,356 cars sold, less than half of the year before. The Trans Am fared not much better, with a total of 50,896 cars, a year-to-year drop of significantly more than 50 percent.

1981

In its final year, the Firebird was virtually unchanged, except for the deletion of the Indy Pace Car and the Yellow Bird trim package. The Pontiac brochure squeezed the entire Firebird lineup in between the Phoenix and the Bonneville. It did manage to feature Burt Reynolds in the main spread, atop a black Turbo Trans Am, and next to a Formula.

The biggest revision was the standard Computer Command Control emissions system, an ECU that monitored fuel mixture, throttle position, and transmission performance, since the computer controlled the new lockup torque converter. There were 14 colors available in the final year. Sales took another massive dip in 1981, with just 20,541 Firebirds, 10,938 Esprits, a paltry 5927 Formulas, and 33,493 Trans Ams produced.

Before Inspection

If you’re hunting for one of these cars, you’ve got a lifetime worth of resources for figuring out every possible nut and bolt. Note that most of those resources are going to be focused on the Trans Am and to a lesser extent the Formula, and not necessarily the six-cylinder cars, the Esprits, or the odd trim packages like the Sky Bird. For the most part, though, many of those same resources for everything from headliners to wheel covers will transfer.

FirebirdNation is an excellent forum, with more information in one site than we could possibly add to this document. Check out the sticky topics at the top of the forum, which focus on things like paint colors, fabric types, how to adjust door glass, and where you can find whatever parts you may be looking for.

As with the Camaro, VINs in these cars changed three times during production, so be aware that the information encoded in those VINs will change depending upon the year. There’s a good VIN decoder at Classic Industries.

F-Body Warehouse is a parts supplier specializing in Firebird and Camaro restoration. Their video on what to look for when buying a second-gen Firebird—specifically a Trans Am, but it applies across the trim levels—doesn’t have Ingmar Bergman–level production quality, but the information within is solid and a must-see before you decide to look at one of these cars.

Rust is going to be your biggest concern. It can quickly turn a half-decent prospect into something that’s not much better than a parts car when areas like frames, floors, trunk pans, fenders, rockers, window pinchwelds, and firewalls are rusted beyond reasonable repair. Keep in mind that while these cars do have an excellent aftermarket, the cost for parts and labor to set a car like this right is going to be expensive.

These cars were built in the same two plants as the Camaro, so build sheets will likely be in the same locations—that is, all over the place. They could be tucked under the package shelf, under carpets on the transmission tunnel, over gloveboxes, under the front seat springs, under the rear seat backs, or on top of the fuel tank.

The cowl tags are also a vital source of information. Trans Am Country has good information on cowl tags, from their location to their contents to why it should be considered an international war crime to swap a tag.

Unfortunately, the GM Heritage Center has no information on these cars at all, so you won’t find order guides, brochures, or sales documentation the way you do for a Chevrolet (or a Geo, inexplicably.) All of that information is now with PHS Historical Services, which will sell you a full report on your car based on its VIN for $95 via email in four to five days, or $125 for a rush turnaround.

Before You Buy

When you’re considering what you’ll have to put into a potential project, know that there really isn’t a part that you can’t source through one of the major suppliers. And some of these aftermarket suppliers are dedicated to nothing but cars from Pontiac, like Ames Performance Engineering. They’re probably the best place to start for technical advice and sourcing. Start with the PDF version of the Firebird catalog. Other suppliers, like Classic Industries, Year One, Classic Muscle, and National Parts Depot, can fill in the gaps. You may need to hunt for highly specific things. For example, the folks at Restore-a-Muscle Car have successfully 3D printed the T-Top headliner trim we mentioned earlier. But the good news is, it’s not like owning a second-generation Buick Riviera, where the only parts available are in a junkyard.

Mechanical components for the Chevy 250, the Buick 3.8-liter, the Pontiac 350, the Pontiac 400, the Olds 400, and the Pontiac 455 are all readily available. F-Body Warehouse even has a number of restoration parts for the 301. Transmissions and rear differentials are plentiful, no matter which example your Firebird came with.

The best car to buy is wildly subjective. Most people are going to be interested in the Trans Ams throughout the build history, but you can have a lifetime’s worth of entertainment with a 1973 Esprit with a 350 and save yourself a boatload of money in the process. Cars like the Sky, Red, or Yellow Birds add an extra element of rarity with period-correct luxury touches, ensuring you’ll never find a duplicate of yours at a local car show.

What to Pay

Since the middle of 2021, median #2 (good) value is up a little more than 20 percent, with even more growth for the Super Duty, though prices stabilized and have been flat for about a year, according to the Hagerty Price Guide, #2 values range from $11,400 for a 1981 Firebird with a 120-hp V-6 to $165,000 for the aforementioned Super Duty. As always, get the latest valuation data from Hagerty by clicking here.

According to Hagerty’s data, it almost doesn’t matter what year of Trans Am you choose, a #1 (concours) example will be expensive. The 1970 and 1973 Trans Ams with the largest engines and four-speed manual transmissions push up over the $200,000 mark, with the best of the rest still fetching around $60K. On the other end of the economic spectrum, there are deals to be had if you don’t necessarily want to go fast. Driver-class 1980 base Firebirds and Esprits with a 350-cid V-8 and an automatic can be had for less than $13,000, and the 301-powered cars are even more affordable.

The count of insurance quotes sought for these cars has remained even in the last year, but the Firebird—in all trim levels—is the sixth-most popular vehicle in Hagerty’s database. Gen X quotes a fairly stunning 40 percent of second-generation Firebirds, even though that cohort makes up a 32 percent share of the market. Right behind them, boomers quote 34 percent of the second-gen cars, about even with their share of the market. Millennials quote 17 percent of second-gen F-bodies, with an even smaller share of the market at 21 percent. Gen Z quotes 8 percent of F-body examples, and comprises exactly the same percentage of the overall market.

Bookended by the memorable blue-and-white early Ram Air cars and the Bandit-era black-and-gold Trans Ams, all of Pontiac’s second-gen Firebirds have come to epitomize the charm of 1970s American iron. Whether you go understated or full bird, this Pontiac delivers plenty of character.

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The post Your Handy 1970–81 Pontiac Firebird Buyer’s Guide appeared first on Hagerty Media.

For a car that helped define what pony cars were all about, the first-generation Chevrolet Camaro got off to something of an ignominious start. As we covered in a story about Bill Mitchell and Irv Rybicki’s interview in the mid-1980s, neither one of these icons of style at General Motors had any particular love for the design eventually became the First Generation Camaro.

The truly fascinating part of dual interviews that Mitchell and Rybicki gave to the Benson Ford Research Center at the Henry Ford Museum was that the second-generation Camaro, which ran from 1970 to 1981, should’ve been the first generation.

“We did what we were asked to do,” Rybicki said in that interview, regarding the First Generation Camaro. “But when that program was finished, I got with our vehicle packaging group, and we started planning the second-generation car, and there was no interference. We did a new underbody and placed the seats where we wanted them, and got the cross section.”

Mitchell echoed Rybicki’s sentiments: “[T]hey ran for ten years, because I got the right dash to axle, the right cowl height,” he said. The look stood the test of time.

So, the 1970 to 1981 Camaro exists as an example of what could’ve been in 1967 had the team had the time to fully execute the ideas that they had about what a personal sports car should be, rather than rushing to grind out cars in an effort to catch up with Ford’s Mustang.

The February 1970 debut of the second-gen Camaro was a clean-sheet design that nonetheless followed a familiar formula designed to meet a broad spread of buyer’s needs: Six-cylinder at the base level with a manual transmission, all the way up to the Z28 at the top of the food chain. (As an aside, the slash disappeared from “Z/28” in 1970, and wouldn’t return till the 2014 Z/28.) The broad range of engines was augmented by the order guide’s flexibility: You could buy the base car with absolutely no frills and a big block V-8 with a four-speed manual, meaning big power could be had without the added cost of stripes, emblems, and wheels that the Z28 offered.

During the second-gen car’s run, the Z28, along with the Type LT and SS, got all the attention, but the real sales numbers came from the low- to mid-trim levels like the Sport Coupe and Berlinetta, which provided basic transportation for Americans all over the country. These two-door sporty coupes were a significant part of what everyday American buyers drove daily before they shifted over to four-door sedans from Toyota and Honda.

As the years went from 1970 to the mid-1970s, a fuel crisis and perceived ebb in demand for performance cars further encouraged Chevrolet to position the Camaro as more of an everyday vehicle rather than the tire-smoldering drag car or road course dominator it had been in the past. Chevy’s marketing leaned on the universal appeal of a sporty car that actually worked as a daily driver, emphasizing the long doors and easy access to the back seat. “Getting in and out is a snap. Especially in the back,” reads one print ad from 1970. “It’s OK if you have to slip in an occasional shopping bag.”

Especially through a modern lens, with the sixth-gen Camaro selling around 25,000 units a year, the second-generation Camaro was an unqualified smash from the second it arrived. With the exception of 1972 and 1973, when strikes caused production numbers to dwindle, the second-gen Camaro always sold in the six digits. Between the years of 1977 and 1979, Chevrolet sold more than three quarters of a million Camaros. In 1979—when Chevrolet sold 282,571 units—it outsold the Toyota Corolla by about 8,000 cars.

Over 12 model years, the Camaro went from a tire-boiling performance car to a tape-stripe packaged personal coupe and nearly back again as the third generation loomed. That said, in any search for a second-gen car, you’re much more likely to find a Z28 or other performance-oriented model than you are a base coupe with its original six-cylinder engine intact.

1970

The 1970 Camaro was produced at two plants—Van Nuys, California and Norwood Assembly in Ohio. In that first year there were five engines available: At the base level was the 155hp Turbo Thrift 250-cubic inch inline six cylinder. Oddly, Chevrolet referred to the 307-cubic inch V-8 and all three of the variations of 350-cubic inch V-8 as “Turbo Fire.” The 307 delivered 200 hp, while the 350s offered 250 hp with a two-barrel, 300hp (L48) and 360hp (the LT1 in the Z28), both with four-barrel carburetors. At the top of the ladder were two versions of the Turbo Jet 396-cubic inch V-8, producing either 350 or 375 horsepower.

Four basic transmission setups were available, dependent upon the engine selected. The base was a three-speed manual, which was standard with the six-cylinder and the 307 V-8. The six-cylinder and the smaller V-8 were also available with the Powerglide two-speed automatic, while the 307 and 350 V-8s could also be ordered with the TH350 three-speed automatic. The 350s and the 396s could be had with Muncie four-speed manuals, and if you wanted an auto with your big block, a beefier TH400 three-speed would be fitted.

For the first time, the Z28 could be had with an automatic. You could also get two different low gears (a 2.52:1 and a 2.20:1) in the Z28’s four-speed manual, along with your choice of a 3.73:1 or 4.10:1 rear end. This choice of rear gears were available on big block cars, too, while lesser-engined cars based their gear sets on transmission choice.

Chevrolet offered five basic trim levels in 1970: A base car identified as “Standard” in the order guide. The “Style Trim” (RPO Z21) included parking lamps mounted in the front valence, bright hood trim, body-color inserts on the door handles, and bright “Dual Concentric” rings on the taillamps.  Rally Sport (RPO Z22) included Rally Sport emblems, the iconic split front bumpers and the valence-mounted parking lights. The SS (RPO Z27) came through with a standard 350-cu.in. V-8 with a four-barrel and dual exhaust, power disc brakes, hood insulation, and a black grille and rear valence panel, plus 7-inch wide Rally wheels. The optional 396 also gave the suspension a boost with a rear stabilizer bar.

At the top of the food chain was the Z28, which featured the standard 360-horse LT1 V-8. With 11.0:1 compression, four bolt main bearings, a unique cam, mechanical lifters and a four-barrel, extruded aluminum pistons, bigger valves, and a thermo-modulated fan, and other tweaks, this engine was among the most revered small blocks that Chevy produced. The Z28 also provided higher rate springs and shocks, a front and rear stabilizer bar and a quick-ratio steering box. On the outside, the Z28 received a rear deck spoiler, stripe kit, and gray-painted Z28 wheels with F60x15 white letter Goodyear Polyglas GTs.

There’s a lot of confusion about what constitutes a Rally Sport, in large part because that trim could be applied to anything from Z28s all the way down to six-cylinder cars. The only way to fully identify whether a car is an RS—five decades after it was produced—is to find code Z22 in the build sheet. It’s more than just the split bumpers, too, and buyers should note that people have been adding split bumpers onto standard noses almost since the get-go. True RS cars will also feature Hide-A-Way wipers (RPO C24) as well as the contents of the Z21 Style Trim Group. On SS and Z28 trims with the RS option, the only obvious callout will be the RS emblem on the steering wheel.

Inside, the standard car was a lot more stripped than popular imagination remembers. The floor console was an option, for example. It’s always a treat to run across a bare-bones base car with a floor shifted three-speed and no console. Interior packages included the Z23 Special Interior Group (additional instrument cluster lighting and wood-grained accents on the instrument cluster and steering wheel) and the Z87 Custom Interior (everything in Z23 plus deluxe seats in either cloth or vinyl, a glovebox light, additional instrument cluster lighting; a luggage compartment mat and engine compartment, hood, and interior insulation.)

Standalone options ranged in the dozens from air conditioning—though not on the Z28—to a forced air rear window defogger. Major option groups included ZP5 (Appearance Guard Group—door edge guards and front and rear floor mats), U14 (the Instrument Panel Gage Package that came with temp and voltage gauges, plus a clock and tachometer), and ZQ2 (Operating Convenience Group: a clock, sport mirrors and the rear defogger).

A few minor notes: 1970 was the only year the second-generation Camaro was available with the “Camaro by Chevrolet” emblem on the rear decklid. The side marker lights on a 1970 Camaro also don’t flash with the turn indicators, a one-off anomaly for that year.

There were 15 color options in 1970, with three tones of vinyl top, and five interior colors in total, three of which were available in Knit Vinyl and Pattern Cloth. The vast majority of the 124,901 Camaros produced in 1970 featured a V-8: Just 12,578 featured the 250-cu.in. six-cylinder, making these cars pretty thin on the ground in 2023.

1971

1971 was a pivotal year for performance, or more specifically, the lack thereof—GM lowered the compression ratios of all of its engines, and dropped its most potent 396 from the engine lineup.

The 250-cubic inch six and 307-cubic inch V-8 were identical in performance to 1970. The two-barrel-equipped 350-cubic inch engine dropped to 245hp from 250hp. But the big drop was for the four-barrel 350 (270hp from 300hp in 1970), the four-barrel 350 with dual exhaust in the Z28 (330hp from 360 the prior year) and the 396 (now marketed with its actual displacement of 402 cubic inches) sat at an even 300 horses.

The 1971 grille was the identical tight rectangular pattern of the 1970, and unique to those two years of Camaro.

Inside, there were further changes. 1971 debuted high-back bucket seats for all Camaro models rather than low-back buckets with a separate headrest. That high-back design would continue for the remained of the second-gen’s run. And for the first time, 1971 Camaro models featured a pictograph on the smaller rubberized headlamp switch, replacing a larger chrome pull knob from 1970. The two-spoke base steering wheel is slightly different in 1971, more of a rectangular shape than 1970’s somewhat triangular design. The four-spoke wheel (RPO NK4) was an option that would eventually become standard the following year.

15 colors were available, with four vinyl top options and five interior colors. In 1971, Chevrolet produced a total of 114,630 Camaros, with about 90 percent of that production allotted to V-8s, and just 11,178 six-cylinders.

1972

The order guide in 1972 looks different, and a lot easier to comprehend. The basic difference is down to “6-Cylinder Model” with the 250-cu.in. inline six, and for another $95, the “8-Cylinder Model” with the 307-cu.in. V-8, making it absolutely clear why V-8-powered Camaros made up most of the production in any given year.

Major options continued to include the Z27 Camaro SS (with the L48 350 or with the optional LS3 402); Z23 Rally Sport (still available on everything, but deleting RS emblems on Z28 and SS); Z21 Style Trim; and Z28 Special Performance Package. All of the engines were rated for SAE NET HP in 1972, showing a significant drop from 1971. The 250-cubic inch six was rated at 110hp, the 307 V-8 at 130hp, the L65 350 V-8 at 165hp, the L48 350 at 200hp, the Z28 350 at 255hp, and the 402-cu.in. V-8 at 240hp. Transmission offerings remained the same.

The big exterior change for 1972 was the larger grille pattern, which the 1972 model year Camaro shares with ’73. But it’s the only year that the Camaro has this grille pattern without the underlying larger, stronger bumper supports. Besides that grille, the exterior largely stayed the same, though lots of changes were occurring inside. The steering wheel went to the four-spoke urethane NK4 sport wheel that became synonymous with the Camaro until 1981. Three-point seatbelts became standard for the two front passengers. The door panels underwent a style revision, with map pockets and a change holder. Speedometers dropped to a 130-mph max, down from 150 in the first two years. In prior years, four-speed-equipped Camaros used a Hurst shifter, but that was eliminated for 1972.

In previous years, Z21 (Style Trim) was included in the Z23 Rally Sport package, but in 1972, the packages were independent, meaning you could buy a car that was Rally Sport equipped, but not have bright exterior trim. It’s important to note that prior to the 1972 model year, the engine code was not part of the VIN. That changed in 1972, with the fifth digit of the VIN signifying the engine:

• D = 250ci
• F = 307ci
• H = 350ci
• K = 350ci (SS)
• L = 350ci (Z28)
• U = 396ci (SS)

Fifteen colors were available in 1972, with another five vinyl top hues. Six interior colors were available with two reserved for vinyl only. This was a grim year for Camaro production, thanks to a strike. Just 68,671 Camaros were produced, with only 4,821 six-cylinders, and the balance in V-8 production.

1973

This was a big year in second-generation history, for a number of reasons. First off, it’s the last year for the original flat-faced design. This marks the last year for the split bumper, and the only year the split bumpers have additional reinforcement beneath, specifically to allow these cars to pass the 2.5-mph federally mandated bumper crash test.

On the performance side … well, there wasn’t a performance side. 1972 was the last year for an SS, and with it went the big block. From here through the end of second-gen production, the Camaro would have a six-cylinder as the base engine, and small block V-8s as options. Power ratings fell again: To 100hp for the six, 115hp for the 307-cu.in. V-8, 145hp for the two-barrel L65 350, 175hp for the four-barrel L48 350, and 245hp for the Z28 350. The transmission offerings also changed, with the deletion of the Powerglide. The only automatic available henceforth would be a Turbo Hydra-Matic 350.

In the SS’s place was the Type LT—ostensibly standing for “Luxury Touring,” a fact made obvious by the full foam front and rear seats designed to give “superb riding comfort” and “firm support.” Seats could be covered in either vinyl or cloth. The “deep twist” carpet was supposed to be more luxurious, and could be ordered in accent colors depending on the upholstery color. Standard on Type LT was the Décor/Quiet Sound Group, which included sound deadening on the floor, cowl-to-fender seals, a headliner insulating pad, and full hood insulation, along with woodgrain on the door panels. The LT got special emblems on the decklid and sail panels outside.

Turbine wheels were available for the first time in 1973 on every trim except Z28, and the full wheel covers were revised. The bad news of the Z28 losing its mechanical lifters was salved slightly by the Z28 finally being offered with air conditioning. Throughout the lineup, the console and automatic transmission shifter were revised to a single ratchet style shifter, rather than the basket-handle shifter of the first few years. Inside, all Camaros had a mandated seat belt warning buzzer. In the trunk, a space saver spare debuted.

16 colors provided the most extensive palette to date, and seven vinyl top colors expanded the range as well. Five colors were available for the interior, but only two were available in cloth trim. Production picked up nearly a third to 96,751, with 93,137 of those cars shipped with one of the V-8s.

1974

Federal bumper standards forced a major facelift for the 1974 Camaro. Look around at how other makes and models had their faces altered during the same time period, and you realize just how successfully Chevrolet designers were able to integrate the bumpers into the Camaro’s overall aesthetic.

Along with the new aluminum bumper up front came an all-new fiberglass nose with deep sugar-scoop headlamp buckets, and turn signals set between the grille and the headlamps. The rear quarter and rear valence was redesigned to add a larger aluminum bumper to the rear as well, which also integrated wedge-style wraparound taillights with full red lenses. Front and rear bumpers had jack slots, so the bumper jack was revised.

The delightful baby moon center caps of the first three years gave way to the same aluminum center caps from the Nova. Radial tires became an option for the first time. The Z28 got wild new graphics for ’74, just in time for the designation to disappear for a few years.

Changes were afoot inside, too, some subtle, some not. A retractable, inertia reel shoulder belt became standard, and an AM/FM stereo was on the option list. Gone as quickly as it arrived was a seatbelt interlock that prevented the car from starting if the seat belts weren’t engaged.

Mechanically, there were a few revisions, too: Power steering became standard on all V-8-powered Camaros. The fuel tank increased from 18 gallons to 21. The Z28 got an HEI electronic ignition, which would eventually make its way to all the cars. The 307 disappeared in favor of the two-barrel 350. 16 colors made up the paint options, along with the widest color range of vinyl tops to date at 10 colors. Nine interior colors were available, along with some great two-tone check patterns. Production skyrocketed in 1974 to 151,008, with 128,798 cars shipped with V-8s and the balance 250-cubic in. sixes.

1975

While the big changes all occurred in the 1974 model year, there was more in store for 1975, and most of it wasn’t good. The Z28 was gone, though the Rally Sport re-emerged toward the end of the year as a paint and trim package. The familiar “Camaro” cursive script was still on the glovebox lid, but the front fenders received a block script in all caps.  The rear window was also redesigned to mirror the wraparound look of the tail lamps, and to provide more visibility to the rear. The tricolor emblem in the grille on the 1974 model year moved up to an escutcheon on the fiberglass nose.

Inside, power locks were available for the first time, along with a new cruise control option. The Sports Décor package (Z08) showed up briefly, including body-colored sport mirrors, a body-colored insert on the door handles, and body-colored appliqué on the bumpers. That package disappeared halfway through the year, so it’s a relatively rare sight nowadays. The Type LT featured bird’s eye maple trim inside, versus the previous year’s meridian walnut. Even the handful of people who bought sixes could get air conditioning in 1975. According to the order guide for 1975, for the first time, leather seating was available in either Dark Saddle or Dark Oxblood. That option disappears in 1976 and wouldn’t return in the second generation.

There were also a few mechanical changes. The big one was the addition of the catalytic converter, which required the modification of the passenger side floor. All V-8 cars received twin exhaust outlets. HEI became standard on all engines, including the six. Rear brake drums were finned for better cooling.

16 colors were available, along with nine vinyl top choices. Interior colors were limited to just five. Production held steady in 1975 to 145,770 units, with a growing percentage of six-cylinder cars at 29,749, and 116,021 V-8s.

1976

It seems hard to distinguish the differences between a 1975 and 1976 Camaro, though there were a number of minor trim revisions, as well as some significant mechanical changes.

On the Type LT, the rear valence panel under the decklid received a smart brushed aluminum cover that set the entire back of the car off nicely.

Outside, a new Landau top trim was available. It’s essentially a reverse landau top from what you might be familiar with on a Colonnade body, where the vinyl is only over the front passengers, rather than wrapping around the rear window and quarter. This replaced the full vinyl top available up to this point. Custom-styled urethane and alloy wheels were also options for the first time in 1976.

Upholstery revisions were again in the mix, with new sport cloth-and-vinyl trim patterns. The instrument panel trim shifted from interior color to a tan simulated leather, which made the black-faced gauges seem to leap out of the dash. Optional gauge packages included a voltmeter rather than the old ammeter.

Mechanically, 1975 introduced the 305-cubic inch V-8 as the middle engine in the lineup. The 145-hp two-barrel split the difference between the 105 hp inline six and the 165hp of the 350. Power-assisted brakes were now standard, and the braking system received minor updates.

There were 14 colors for 1976, with another seven vinyl top colors. Five interior colors were available. Production numbers were way up again for 1976, with 182,959 total. That number is made up of an increasing percentage of six cylinder cars with 38,047, along with 144,912 V-8s.

1977

Camaro news for 1977 was big, if only for the return of the Z28. Tom Zimmer—the Camaro’s Chief Engineer—demanded it, reportedly after seeing the Pontiac Trans Am’s sales numbers take off.

The Z28 debuted at the Daytona Motor Speedway in February that year. While it wasn’t exactly the car that Pontiac delivered, it did pretty well for itself, with a 185-horse 350 fitted with a Rochester four-barrel carburetor. The exhaust went through a single cat, but split into dual resonators and tailpipes with no mufflers. The standard transmission was a Borg-Warner four-speed with a 2.64:1 low gear. The stick wasn’t available in California, which only got the three-speed Turbo Hydra-Matic, though the shift points were revised upward.

The Z28 emphasized handling over straight line performance, with revised 365-lb springs and a 1.2-inch stabilizer bar up front. Springs in the rear were 127-lb. versus the standard 89 to 99 pound springs in lesser Camaro trims. The rear stabilizer bar trimmed back a bit to .55 inches versus .69 inches, and the rear springs benefitted from higher durometer rubber shackle bushings. The 15×7 Z28 steel wheels returned, though they were painted body color instead of gray as in previous years.

The exterior package included Z28-specific decals on the hood, front fenders, front and rear spoilers, wheel wells, rocker panels, and door-handle inserts. The bumpers—the same bumpers as any other Camaro in 1977—were body color. Headlight and tail light bezels and window trim were black anodized, and the rear trunk panel, rocker panel and parking light buckets were painted black to match. Front and rear spoilers were standard and the Z28 received the full U14 gauge package. And for the first time, the Z28 received a unique steering wheel with faux rope “whipping” around the rim. That steering wheel would remain a Z28 component until the last model year of the second generation.

Only two minor changes occurred on the balance of the Camaro lineup: intermittent wipers were optional for the first time, and the four-speed transmission moved the location of reverse to far left and down. Colors grew a bit more limited to 13 in 1977, and you had more than half as many vinyl top colors to choose from, too. Inside, though, just four colors were available. Boosted by the popularity of the mid-year Z28, Camaro numbers exploded to 218,853, outselling the Ford Mustang for the first time, and including 14,349 Z28s. The total breakdown includes 31,389 inline sixes and 187,464 V-8s.

1978

A whole range of exterior changes occurred in 1978, largely centered around the bumpers. The aluminum bumpers that arrived in 1974 were reportedly supposed to be replaced with urethane bumper covers by 1976, but that change was delayed for two long years. When they finally came around, however, they gave the Camaro a significant refresh that helped propel the car to fresh sales highs.

Front and rear fascias were both revised, and hid impact-absorbing construction designed to withstand a five-mph impact without damage. The headlamp and turn indicator buckets were more squared off than previous years, and they were smooth chrome in all but the Z28. Prior years had a pebbled finish that didn’t fare well in the weather. The Camaro emblem once again moved to the middle of the grille. Tail lamps were revised to a more geometric pattern, with amber turn signals split by a fuel door in the rear panel, instead of behind the license plate. The license plate mount itself moved from the rear panel down into a molded section of the bumper.

1978 also marked the first year for the T-Top option. Interestingly, the brochure shows the option, but the available order guide from October of 1977 doesn’t. The Rally Sport also re-emerged as a separate trim level rather than an RPO package.

There were some mechanical changes, as well. The 305 received the four-speed manual as the standard transmission, and all but the Z28 had taller rear axle ratios to help fuel economy. Lower control arms received heftier bracing for improved chassis stiffness, and redesigned rear spring shackles improved stability.

The color palette shrunk again to nine choices, with nearly as many vinyl top colors to choose from. Upholstery color choices grew to six. Production numbers again surpassed anything previously seen for the Camaro, with an astounding 272,631 total, including 36,982 six-cylinders and 235,649 V-8s.

1979

1979 brought another year of growth for the Camaro and the all-time sales record for the model. The biggest revision was the trim name shift from the Type LT to the Berlinetta, which included custom interior, bright upper and lower grille, bright windshield and rear window moldings, a dual pin stripe, body color sport mirrors, argent appliqué on rear panel, specific trim and either polycast wheels or color-keyed aluminum wheels. The Berlinetta also received Amberlite insulation blankets in the doors, rear quarters, roof/sail panels, behind the rear seat, under the package tray and under the carpeting. Dual horns and the full gauge package were also standard equipment.

Inside, all Camaros got new brushed aluminum-style instrument panel trim, and the optional forced air rear defroster gave way to a heated backlight.

Color options expanded to 11 in 1979, along with seven vinyl top choices. Six upholstery colors were available. It was the best-ever year for the Camaro with 282,571 produced, including 21,913 six-cylinders and 260,658 V-8s. Despite the economy, rampant interest rates and rising fuel costs, the Z28 alone represented 84,877 units sold.

1980

The penultimate year for the second-generation Camaro represented a lot of change for the car, some good, some not so much. For the first time ever, the base Camaro wouldn’t rely on the inline six that had powered Chevrolet vehicles since 1962. In its stead were two V-6s. California got an even-fire 231-cubic inch V-6 with internal balancing that would eventually go on to power the lion’s share of GM products for the next 20 years. The other 49 states got an odd-fire 229-cubic inch six for 1980.

Also available—and universally despised—was a 49-state L39 267-cubic inch V-8 good for 120 hp and 215 lb-ft. of torque.

The Z28 got ever-more menacing three-bar, tri-color graphics in 1980, and even slightly more horsepower, too, at 190hp, provided you didn’t live in California. Z28s sold there were limited to a 305 V-8 and a TH350. It also got the nifty Air Induction hood for the first time, with a solenoid-fired flapper that snapped open at wide-open throttle, perhaps one of the coolest gimmicks to come out of the 1980 model year.

Polycast wheels finally bowed out for this model year, replaced by polished wheel covers for the Berlinetta.

The disco era may have finally reached its conclusion, signified by the deletion of the vinyl top option for 1980. Color choice exploded to 14 selections, while interior colors were limited to five. Production dropped significantly in 1980, down to 152,005 units. The available V-6 was a smash, selling 51,104 units—the best ever showing for a six cylinder. V-8s totaled 100,901 units.

1981

In its final year, the bulk of the Camaro lineup was a carryover from the 1980 model year, but there are still changes to talk about.

The biggest revision was the standard Computer Command Control emissions system, which took up some valuable real estate in that year’s sales brochure. It was an early ECU that not only monitors fuel mixture, throttle position and 02 emissions, but transmission performance as well, since the computer controlled the new lockup torque converter. It’s also notable for the birth of the Check Engine Light for the Camaro.

For 1981, the Rally Sport fell out of the lineup. Like all cars, Camaros in 1981 featured a 17-digit VIN. Power brakes were a standard feature for the first time, as was a space saver spare. Halogen headlamps became optional, and there were 13 colors available in the final year, with six interior color choices. While a shadow of the 1979 zenith, sales were still pretty strong for 1981, with 126,139 Camaros produced. V-6 models continued to perform well at 52,004 units, while V-8 models dropped to 74,135, including 43,272 Z28s.

Before You Inspect

There are few vehicles with as deep a set of historical and reference resources as the Second Generation Camaro. The biggest resource—and one that we’ve used here for production figures and year-to-year changes—is NastyZ28.com, which has long been the primary resource for 1970 to 1981 Camaro enthusiasts. The American Camaro Association runs the Camaro Nationals which takes place this July in Morgantown, Pennsylvania.

VINs in these cars changed three times over the span of Second Gen Camaro production, so be aware that the information encoded in those VINs will change depending upon the year. There’s a good VIN decoder at Chevy-Camaro.com, and aftermarket supplier Classic Industries has a version, as well. Double R Restorations has an outstanding series of videos covering every aspect of Second Generation Camaro purchasing, but start with the video on common rust areas. This is the dividing line between a Camaro that can reasonably be put back together, and one that’s too far gone to serve as anything but a parts car.

We won’t go into great detail here because it’s all laid out in the video, from rust around the windshield and backlight to floors, trunks, quarters and doglegs.

Your prospective Camaro—like all cars from the era—may or may not have a build sheet tucked up under the rear seat, over the glovebox, over the fuel tank, in the springs of the front seat, under the carpet by the transmission tunnel or elsewhere. The Service Parts Identification label that has been so helpful in determining option codes wasn’t fully integrated until 1984, so that’s unfortunately not an option on these cars.

Cowl tags were part of every Camaro built between 1970 and 1981, so you’ll find valuable information there. What information is contained in the trim tag varies depending on the year, but thankfully Chevy-Camaro.com has an excellent pull-down menu by year which will help you learn what your target Camaro left the factory with.

The GM Heritage Center managed to get its Historic Information Kits back online recently, and we found every order guide for every Camaro from 1970 to 1981 listed. There’s invaluable information there about what options, colors, powertrains and equipment your Camaro may have come with.

Before You Buy

Like all cars from the 1970s and 1980s, second-generation Camaros were prone to rust. As Russ from Double R Restorations notes, in a lot of instances, you really can’t tell the extent of the rust on things like window channels until you’ve taken the glass out and gone past the point of no return. Areas like toe boards hold rust that you can’t see underneath because of body bracing. Frame rails can also be destroyed.

The good news is that there really isn’t a body part that you can’t find for these cars from a supplier like Classic Industries, Year One, Rick’s Camaros, Classic Muscle,  National Parts Depot, Camaro Parts Central, and a nearly inexhaustible list of smaller parts suppliers.

Mechanically these cars are straightforward, and they remain plentiful, with a few exceptions. For less desirable engines like the 267-cubic inch V-8 and the odd-fire 229-cubic inch V-6 are going to be hard to source. Many of the 350-cu.in. V-8 heads that came out of this era are commonly referred to as the least desirable in Chevrolet’s history, but swapping them out for something better is relatively easy. Transmissions and rear ends are plentiful, no matter which your Camaro happens to have.

Which one to buy? Aside from the stronger powertrains and muscle car-era ties of the early models, it’s largely a matter of personal preference. Some buyers are going to be after an 1970 RS/SS, and some are going to want the full disco package in a 1980 Z28 with T-Tops. They’re all equally susceptible to rust, and all have a fairly prolific aftermarket.

What to Pay

Given the long lifespan of this generation and the variety of spec, there’s quite a spread in values. “Number 2 values vary widely for these, from just $11,200 for a 1980 base with the lowest output V-8 to $84,800 for a 1970 SS 396/375hp L78,” says senior auction editor Andrew Newton. As always, check out Hagerty’s Valuation Tools to ensure you get the latest values for your specific Camaro.

If you simply like the shape of the Second Generation Camaro, choosing a six-cylinder car, or something like a clean Berlinetta will save you enough money to send a kid to stage college for a few years. The pandemic boom had a dramatic effect on all Camaro prices, and prices are still up significantly, but prices have softened a little recently. That said, certain trends remain: “For both the early and the later cars—the latter of which tend to be cheaper—it’s the high-spec performance models that have seen the most appreciation by far,” says Newton. “For example, while 1981 Z28s are up 80% over the past four years, 1981 base and Berlinetta models are up just 24%.”

Quoted values for these cars—regardless of year or condition—is up 32 percent in the last three years, according to the Hagerty Valuation Team.

Gen X unsurprisingly quotes 38 percent of 1970 to 1981 Camaros, while making up 32 percent of the overall collector car market. These were incredibly popular cars when Gen X was growing up (and continued to be so when they became the used cars that populated their high school parking lots), and they have the liquid cash to buy one. Millennials have a strong affinity for these cars, too, making up 20 percent of quotes—about consistent with their share of the market. Gen Z quotes 11 percent while being seven percent of the overall market. Boomers are still a strong ownership bloc, but not as much as you might think. They quote 30 percent of all 1970 to 1981 Camaros in Hagerty’s database, while making up 35 percent of the market.

Buy the best Second Generation Camaro you can afford, and if you can verify that any rust areas have been addressed, all the better. And as with any classic purchase, have the car looked over by a qualified professional.

***

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We hear it all the time: Getting kids involved in the classic car hobby is tougher than ever. How do you battle the high price of entry, especially when cost of upkeep, registration, insurance, and fuel incur their own demands?

Years ago, you’d have pointed your young classic vehicle fans to vehicles that existed on the margins: Four-door sedans and hardtops, station wagons, off-brand or weird stuff. But even these corners of the hobby have found an audience now, and the quality of collector car you can easily find for under a couple grand is pretty bleak.

There’s hope! Consider a fun, interesting, and darned useful wing of the collector vehicle marketplace that comparatively few people have explored: Garden tractors.

Look no further than your local Facebook Marketplace ads and you’ll find a garden tractor for sale that afford with returnable can money. Larger tractors like the Ford 8N have a passionate audience, but they do take up a lot of space, and they’re not cheap any longer. So, as Volkswagen used to say, think small.

Garden tractor enthusiasts prize their workhorses for their utility, but there are also contingents of fans that are using them for pulling competitions and for racing.

Lawn tractor or garden tractor?

You may not think so, but there is a difference between a lawn tractor and a garden tractor. Lawn tractors are more or less lawn mowers with a deck. They might have a bagger attachment on later versions, but their primary purpose is cutting the grass.

A garden tractor may indeed have a cutting deck, but it is also suitable for a range of attachments, from snowplows to snowblowers, and some might even have hydraulic buckets, three-point hitches, or PTO (power take-off) provisions for a wide range of light implements.

David Bradley and the garden tractor in America

You can’t talk about garden tractors—or any other kind of home implement from this period—without discussing David Bradley. Bradley was a manufacturing powerhouse at the turn of the 20th century, in the brick, lumber, and farm machine trades. In 1884 he purchased a plow manufacturing company, bought out his partner, and launched the David Bradley Manufacturing Company. In 1895 Bradley relocated the outfit to North Kankakee, Illinois, which was renamed Bradley City (shortened to Bradley by 1896) in his honor.

The bigtime hit in 1910, when he sold his manufacturing company to Sears, Roebuck and Company. For decades after, all of the home improvement equipment that Sears, Roebuck and Company sold was under the aegis of David Bradley: Lawnmowers, saws, utility trailers, rototillers, everything. Before there was Craftsman, there was David Bradley.

The David Bradley line of products included a garden tractor in 1958, and the company quickly became the world’s largest manufacturer of these little dynamos. In 1962, the David Bradley Manufacturing Company and the Newark Ohio Company merged under the latter’s name. Two years later, the Newark Ohio Company merged with the Geo. D. Roper Corporation, which went off producing its own brand of products, as well as those for Sears.

The Golden Era of garden tractors

Garden tractors really hit their stride as Americans pushed out from the cities into the suburbs and beyond. Wheel Horse began offering its small Ride-Away garden tractor as early as 1947, hitting its stride in the mid-1950s.

Based on the success of Wheel Horse and David Bradley, manufacturers like John Deere and Cub Cadet hit the scene in the early 1960s as the true golden era of the garden tractor really took off. From there, the list of garden tractor brands exploded, with entries from Colt, Economy, Ingersoll, Case, Oliver, Snapper, Simplicity and an endless array of other brands selling from bespoke agencies all the way to your local hardware store.

Gear drive or hydrostatic?

Outside of which brand of garden tractor you’re interested in, the big variable you’ll run into is the type of transmission.

Early garden tractors almost always had a conventional gear-driven transmission with a clutch and three or four speeds, sometimes with a low range for crawling and plowing. They’re simple and, with basic fluid changes, almost bulletproof.

A hydrostatic transmission uses hydraulic fluid in a variable displacement pump. While they operate on a completely different principle, you can think of a hydrostatic transmission like a continuously variable transmission; the engine turns at a constant speed while the operator sets the ground speed with a lever. Lacking a clutch pedal, they’re easy to operate and their ability to set a constant speed in small increments is suitable for lawn mowing, in particular.

A hydrostatic transmission, however, is less serviceable in the hands of a home enthusiast. And while they can operate a power take-off (PTO), they don’t transfer horsepower from the engine with the same efficiency.

So who are the big players? It’s impractical to cover all the brands in the mix here, but we’ll hit a few of the most popular with active club support and parts suppliers:

John Deere

Deere was kind of a Johnny-come-lately in the garden tractor market, but today it’s recognized as the leader—and for good reason. Its 1960s- and 1970s-era garden tractors are prized by collectors and still working hard in yards and small farms all over the country.

There are over 400 different models of John Deere garden tractors. The most iconic was the 300 Series. Built between 1977 and 1992, the 300 series began with the 312 with a 12-hp single, all the way up to the 332 with a 16-hp Yanmar three-cylinder diesel.

A running and operating 300 series today can range from around $400 for a running project 312 up to somewhere around $3000 for a nicely restored or original 322 with the Yanmar diesel.

Cub Cadet

International Harvester entered the garden tractor market in 1961 with a model that’s now come to be known as the Original, a small tractor powered by a Kohler 7-hp single. Since then, there have been hundreds of Cub Cadet models, but many collectors are interested in the pre-1981 garden tractors, built when Cub Cadet was still under the International Harvester brand, before the company’s sale to MTD.

Cub Cadet’s 100 Series was produced between 1963 and 1984 and featured engines from 10hp all the way up to 16 hp. The 149— built between 1971 and 1974—is relatively plentiful, has good parts availability and has the look of a peak period garden tractor. Attachments like plows, tillers, and buckets are available. You can find a running 149 in the $500 range. Fully restored tractors would set you back $1500–$2000.

Wheel Horse

Wheel Horse arrived early in garden tractor history when Elmer Pond began building small tractors in a barn in 1946. The brand made hundreds of models over the years, but enthusiasts are particularly interested in those built before 1986, when Toro purchased the company.

Most plentiful are the C-Series tractors built between 1971 and 1984. A good example is the C-160 featuring a giant cast iron Kohler 16-hp single and a four-speed (including reverse) gear drive transmission with a low range.

The pictured C-160 was recently purchased running and fully operating for $800 including the manual angle plow and tire chains for snow plowing. A nicely restored C-160 could run into the $1500–$2000 range, especially with attachments like snowblowers and tillers. There’s even a rare hydraulic bucket attachment that could easily double the price of a good tractor.

Ford

We mention Ford here mostly because the brand obviously crosses over with vintage car people and culture. Anyone with a first-gen Mustang would be proud to have a Ford LGT garden tractor in the collection. In fact, in Ford advertising the LGT 120 was referred to as the home improvement implement for “Mustang people with lawns.”

Mind you, Ford wasn’t a manufacturer of garden tractors. It contracted production out to a range of conventional garden tractor companies like Jacobsen and Toro before the brand was entirely replaced by New Holland in 1988.

Peak years for the LGT were between 1972 and 1983, with models ranging from the 12-hp LGT-12 to the 19-hp LGT-195. Depending on size and condition, you can find an LGT in the $500 range for a running and operating LGT-12, into the $1250 range for a nicely restored LGT-145.

Sears

After its initial lineup of David Bradley tractors, Sears, Roebuck and Company began offering the Sears ST line of tractors in the early 1970s, before it unleashed the GT series in 1985.

Like Ford, Sears wasn’t a manufacturer of tractors, but contracted with builders of some of the best equipment available at the time. The GT series in 1985 was produced by Roper and was—at the time—a pricey $2500, featuring an 18-hp Briggs & Stratton twin and a six-speed gear-drive transmission.

At one point, these tractors were known as the Craftsman II, and they came in a variety of sizes. They’re generally regarded as tough, solid tractors with a wide range of attachments.

If you’re on the hunt for a Craftsman tractor, you can find a GT 18 just about anywhere in the $1000 neighborhood, depending on the condition and the attachments it comes with.

For much more detailed information on vintage garden tractors, Tractor Data has tons of information on production history. Forums and Facebook groups for every brand and variety of garden tractor are a great resource for parts, tractors for sale and DIY information. Happy riding (and wrenching)!

***

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We returned from our drive of the 2024 Integra Type S celebrating Acura’s return to the simple joy of the original hot Integra, the Type R. So, we decided to revisit this buyer’s guide, originally published in November of 2021. Here it is, updated with data from the spring 2023 edition of the Hagerty Price Guide. Happy shopping!

If you happened to graduate college around 1995, the third-generation (DC2) Integra was practically issued to you when your college president handed you your BA in Travel and Tourism. The Acura Legend cemented Honda’s luxury brand reputation here in the United States, but it was the third-generation Integra that put generous American butts in seats. These entry-level premium cars sold at an average of about 50,000 units a year. If you were particularly interested in performance, you were one of the very few who purchased a DC2 Integra Type R.

The DC2 backstory

Honda waded into DC2 (shorthand for third-generation, VTEC-equipped Integras) production with some trepidation, and a crucial mistake, at least at home. Worldwide, the brand sold nearly a million of the prior-generation Integras in 10 years. And 550,000 examples came to the United States alone.

“In order to meet the challenges of the ’90s,” reads the bilingual Japanese magazine Car Design on the eve of the DC2’s launch in 1994, “Honda R&D’s design organization has been revamped, and the young team under its new leader, General Manager Hiroshi Zaima, has added a new active, powerful character to Honda cars,” wrote Takehiko Morozumi.

Designs for the third-generation Integra began in 1989, with entries from two camps: At the Wako R&D studios, Honda designers worked on one proposal. On the other side of the planet, at Honda R&D Americas, Inc. (HRA), design chief Douglas Halbert had a team working on a second proposal. Since the three-door hatch was primarily aimed at the North American market, the HRA team wielded a lot of influence. In the end, their “hot-blooded Italian” design won out, though a lot of refining happened at the Wako R&D studios, with Akio Higuchi in charge of the final packaging.

“Putting such experienced designers . . in a supporting role was a new attempt for Honda design,” wrote Takehiko Morozumi. The design included a “tense surface treatment, arced drip line, wedge shape, short rear overhang, and four rounded headlights using projector lamps.” That fascia would prove controversial in the home market, forcing Honda to scrap it for a more conventional nose, but in the U.S. and elsewhere, the look stuck.

Remember that 1994 was the Wild West of headlamp design: There were still new vehicles hitting the streets with sealed beams, while most of the industry was moving toward composite lamps with halogen bulbs. But nobody had a projector beam like the Integra: According to Car Design magazine, those lamps materialized at the behest of Soichiro Honda himself, who cautioned that he did not want to see a design with retractable headlamps if, when raised, the lights would impact the car’s aerodynamic profile.

Earlier prototypes had even more dramatically styled interiors, though this one was unique for its day. “Our brief was to produce a Honda that was different from previous models,” said interior chief designer Kenji Iyanagi, “so we did away with the tray-type dashboard and proposed a more open design with a slanted surface.”

The Akira Shimoyama design was just what young Americans were after. Even in the face of a relentless recession, the 1994 Integra sold at a pace of 67,426 units in the 1994 model year, and another 61,316 in 1995. The GS-R trim level was the top performance iteration up until 1997, but the DC2 Type R would nearly eradicate it from most people’s memory.

The Acura Integra Type R is now considered a (pardon the pun) legend, but at the time, it was in the mode of a number of small Japanese hatchbacks and sedans that were stripped and modified into performance cars. Nissan had the Sentra SE-R in 1990, and Toyota offered the AE86. The Integra Type R was only really “upscale” if you were American and bought one from an Acura dealer. The first year it wasn’t even available with air conditioning, but it had the engineering and design prowess within to make what Road & Track called “the best-handling front-drive car of all time.”

1997

The Integra Type R (“ITR,” to fans) was introduced with its own six-page brochure in 1997, but the publication was really just a two-page spec sheet and a three-page foldout of the car in profile. No matter, the 195-hp VTEC four-cylinder featured a large-diameter throttle body and single-plane intake that helped contribute to its eye-popping high-rpm performance. The engine was essentially hand-built, with hand-polished intake ports, higher-lift cams, 12 percent lighter intake valves, 10.6:1 compression ratio pistons, a forged crank with eight counterweights, and an aluminum oil cooler.

Looking back on it, the DC2 Type R wasn’t powerful on paper. In real life, however, it was intoxicating; it made its max horsepower just 400 rpm short of its 8400-rpm redline. At 2643 pounds, the ITR wasn’t all that light for the era, despite being 67 pounds lighter than the GS-R. But Honda’s legendary double-wishbone suspension sat front and rear, and there were 14 percent larger brake rotors at each corner. Between the Type R’s engine and transmission was a lightened flywheel and a heavy duty, hydraulically actuated clutch for more positive shifts. The five-speed gearbox—the only one available on a Type R—had closer ratios. A torque-sensitive Torsen differential helped the front wheels dig under maximum load in the corners. The monocoque chassis was stiffened for “exceptional rigidity,” making the best use of the lowered suspension with its stiffer springs and firmer shocks. The lightweight, five-lug 6.0JJx15 wheels were wrapped in Bridgestone Potenza RE010 summer rubber.

Perhaps the best thing about the Integra Type R is the unassuming styling. It could be any Integra, except for the chin spoiler up front and the high wing in the rear. Inside, there was a bit more going on, including the Type R-spec ignition key, grippy faux suede racing buckets, the leather wrapped wheel and gearshift knob, the carbon-fiber-esque instrument panel and the number plate on the console, indicating that you were one of the proud few to own one.

In 1997, the only color available was the one pictured in the brochure: Championship White. Only 2560 Integra Type Rs were sold in North America.

1998

The brochure changed in 1998, but not much else did. Championship White was still the only color. The brochure does mention that an “Air conditioning kit” is available as an accessory, probably because Acura dealers were grousing that they couldn’t sell the car without it. In 1998, Acura sold 2577 Integra Type Rs in North America.

1999

And then it was gone. There was no Integra Type R for 1999.

2000

It came back! In essence, the 2000 model year car is the same as the one offered in 1997 and 1998, only with new dark-silver aluminum wheels, a titanium-finish shift knob, carbon-fiber “styled” vents and trim, and two new colors replacing Championship White: Flamenco Black Pearl and Phoenix Yellow. For 2000, Acura sold 2633 Integra Type Rs in North America.

2001

For the final year of DC2 production, changes were limited to colors. Phoenix Yellow stayed, but Flamenco Black Pearl exited in favor of Nighthawk Black Pearl. For the 2001 model year, Acura sold 2639 Integra Type Rs in North America.

Before You Buy

Engine/Driveline

We checked in with several DC2 owners and experts about the Integra and the Type R. Tyson Hugie works a 9-to-5 as a financial analyst for an Arizona-based hospital system, but his passion is cars, specifically those from Honda and Acura. He has owned 28 Acuras, including five Integras over his driving career. As of November 2021, his current two Integras are a 1989 LS five-door in Polar White and a 1992 GS-R 3-door in Aztec Green Pearl (the latter with over 250,000 miles on its original B17 VTEC engine).

With all due respect to Dorothy Parker, hell isn’t other people; it’s the previous owner. Hugie notes that the key to a successful Integra purchase—regardless of the trim level—is knowing how the car was driven. “Because of the rev-happy nature of the Integra’s B-series motors, tachometer redlines start at 6800 rpm for LS and GS trim levels, 8000 for GS-R, and a sky-high 8400 for the Type R,” he says. “They also have gearing that results in high-rpm highway cruising.

“As a result, a lot of these cars have been wrung out and can be susceptible to oil burning. Keep an eye out for smoke from the tailpipe, especially after an extended idle, and watch the level on the dipstick.”

Erick Calderon—another DC2 Integra owner and a Honda Service Advisor, who currently owns a 1991 Acura Integra RS, 1993 Acura Integra GS-R, and a 1996 Acura Integra GS-R—also cites humanity at large as the Type R’s biggest problem. “Some GS-R or Type-R DC2 Integras have had their original powertrain either stolen or just replaced by their non-VTEC counterparts,” he says.

Aside from that, Hugie says, Integra maintenance is as straightforward as it would be for any 1990s-era Honda. Timing belts and water pumps—which should be replaced together at 90,000-mile intervals—are key. He notes that OEM parts are still readily available, and preferable to aftermarket alternatives.

Body

Rust is always an issue with older cars, but less so with cars of the DC2’s vintage. What is more important is finding a car that wasn’t crashed. For a time, the 1999 Integra (all trims) was the most stolen car in America; you can bet a lot of those ended up being patched back together.

Hugie and Calderon both urge careful inspection of the VIN stickers on the doors, hatch, hood, and fenders. “Beware that there are also companies out there that make replica VIN stickers, too,” says Hugie. “Factory Honda ones will have a watermark on them.”

Rust damage reveals itself inside the spare-tire well. “Also, give the sliding moonroof a back-and-forth run,” says Hugie. “The moonroof on the DC2 Integra extends out above the roof instead of retracting within the headliner, and movement is known to be a little jittery if the system needs lubrication.”

Searching for collision damage, Hugie mentions careful inspection of the bumper covers. “The front and rear bumpers came with “INTEGRA” embossed on the right-hand side, under the driver’s headlight up front, and under the passenger taillight at the rear,” he says “If the wording is not there, that’s a tell-tale way of knowing the car has aftermarket parts.”

Calderon also advises taking a close look at the window-trim moldings. “They tend to warp or fade,” he says. “Most are no longer available.”

Suspension

“Handling and driver feedback are some of the Integra’s greatest attributes,” says Calderon. “Replacing worn bushings is key for restoring driving feel.”

Beyond that, both agree there’s nothing much else to look for aside from the usual worn-out components. You won’t find Bridgestone Potenza RE010s in 195/55R15 sizes any longer. Even the car that Acura keeps in a museum has replacement Dunlop Direzzas.

Originality

As with most special editions, one of the biggest concerns is ensuring a potential Integra Type R still has all the unique parts with which the factory blessed it. Have a look at the video embedded above to see them in detail. Here’s a short list:

• Type R–branded front and rear strut-tower brace
• B18 engine and Type R transmission (check the VIN tags to ensure a match)
• Rear trunk brace
• Amber backlit gauge cluster
• Alcantara seats with red stitching
• Type R–specific shift knob
• Type R–specific door panel inserts
• Type R build series plaque on console
• Type R five-lug wheels
• Rear suspension cross-member brace

If all of the above are present and accounted for, you likely found an unmolested Integra Type R. But it never hurts to go a little further and consult the folks at the Type R Club of America to ensure you are truly getting what you pay for.

Valuation

In the last five years, DC2 Type Rs have only gotten hotter. In May of 2018, a first-year ITR in #2, or Excellent, condition was worth around $40K; as of April, 2023, that same car would run you $65,500. More recently, values across the model years have leveled out. In the last two years, 1998–2001 cars have pulled even with the first-year examples, which in 2021 carried a $5500 premium. All have appreciated: The value of an ITR from any year in #2, or Excellent, condition has increased by nearly $15K. Check here for the latest, model-year-specific data.

As values for left-hand-drive, U.S.-spec ITRs began to explode around 2020, people’s interest in the JDM versions—badged as Hondas—soared. More and more were imported stateside, thanks in part to the earlier production start (1995). Once, RHD Type Rs carried a decent discount; however, as with Mk IV Supras and FD RX-7s, the value different between USDM and JDM cars is closing rapidly. In the case of the Integra Type R, the gap between JDM and USDM hatchbacks has narrowed from 26 percent to just 14 in the last two years. The sedan version of the ITR bears out the trend: Offered only for the Japanese market, it was once worth only half as much as a USDM hatchback; as of 2023, the value difference between the two has narrowed from 50 percent to just 30.

Millennials are the driving force with Integra values; they quote 53 percent of Integra Type Rs, while making up just 22 percent of the market overall. Gen X, the generation responsible for the purchase of these cars in the first place, quote 34 percent of Integra Type Rs, and represent 32 percent of the market overall. Gen Zs are no longer overlooking them, either: In 2021, this generation accounted for just 1 percent of ITR quotes; today, they account for 8, a share proportionate to their slice of the collector-car market.

Boomers and pre-Boomers, meanwhile, haven’t changed their attitudes towards the DC2 Type R. The former represent 34 percent of Hagerty customers but only 5 percent of Integra Type-R quotes. Pre-boomers? Not even on the ITR’s quote radar.

“The third-generation Integra is a masterpiece of a machine for avid drivers,” says Hugie. “It’s a car that delivers a raw sense of control and speed, from an era just before driver-assistance features started taking over the experience of being behind the wheel.” With strong interest, and a solid group of younger owners, don’t expect the value of a Type R to come down any time soon.

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This article originally ran on this site in June of 2021. After seeing Jeff Dunham’s Bricklin SV-1 on Jay Leno’s Garage yesterday, we couldn’t help but think of Subaru of America, a company founded by the same man who designed that odd, gull-winged sports car and gave it his name: Malcolm Bricklin. Enjoy! —Ed. 

Everybody loves a good origin story. Bruce Wayne’s parents. Peter Parker’s uncle. Kal-El’s trip from Krypton. The story of how a humble motorscooter helped found one of the most recognized brands in America is just as compelling.

It’s hard to imagine now, when you have to be a guy who started a payment-processing company with his dad’s money to eventually launch rockets and build electric cars, but back in the 1960s, ordinary schmoes with a decent suit and a dream could launch an international business. That’s what was going on with Malcolm Bricklin circa 1966, a young guy just out of college with a few bucks left over from a building supply company he started after leaving the University of Florida.

Bricklin had moved back to the Philadelphia area and was hungry for the next big thing. “I got introduced to a man by the name of David Rosen,” Bricklin says in an interview with Luminary’s Driven Radio Show. “David would put things like cigarette machines in bars and restaurants around the Philadelphia area.” Bricklin wasn’t much interested in selling cigarettes, but Rosen told him: “I got this thing in Italy that they’ve been bugging me about, and I think you’re perfect. It’s called a Cinebox.”

Bricklin described the Cinebox as a “visual jukebox,” where for 25 cents, a patron would see a short film along with wild movies in the mold of the Beatles’ 1964 hit film A Hard Day’s Night. Bricklin went to Milan to see the movie booths, which were built by Innocenti Corporation, the Italian conglomerate which also built Lambretta scooters under license.

Bricklin loved the idea and signed on immediately, only to find after a visit to Hollywood that nobody produced the kind of short music movie, what MTV would eventually launch as the music video in the ’80s. Instead, all he managed to find was R-rated pornography.

“Although I enjoyed watching it,” Bricklin says, “that’s not the business I wanted to be in, and I couldn’t convince anybody to make me a musical film.”

The impasse led to a rather desperate discussion with Innocenti, and one that would eventually set Bricklin on the path to become an automotive industry executive. The company had a warehouse in Long Island with 25,000 Lambretta scooters that, for whatever reason, it simply couldn’t sell in America. Bricklin went to the Lambretta facility in Long Island and found that “They have two nice guys, they speak broken English from Italy, they take two-hour lunches, and if you want one of these things you gotta send them a check.” The, after some indeterminate amount of time, the scooter would appear.

“It’s not a really good way to sell something that very few people want,” said Bricklin.

So he recommended that Innocenti fire their erstwhile Italian salesmen, set Bricklin up in an office in the Time and Life Building in Manhattan, and provide him $5000 a week. To Bricklin’s surprise, Innocenti agreed, offering him a one-year contract to move the bikes.

Through a connection, Bricklin hit on success: He ended up selling a thousand, then many multiples of thousands, of scooters to the New York City Police Department, first as a way to make New York City’s parking enforcement officers mobile, and then to put cops on wheels in Central Park, when that jewel was considered one of the most dangerous places in the city. Bricklin and his partner took out a $15,000 ad in the Police Gazette advertising the Lambrettas, with a testimonial from the NYC police. “By using the Lambrettas in Central Park, it kind of opened up the park. It sort of made it a place where you could actually go and enjoy the park. It really did cut down on the crime,” Bricklin says.

Buoyed with his New York City success, Bricklin went looking for other opportunities to put Americans on two wheels. He found some traction selling scooters to gas stations who would rent Vespa and Lambretta scooters in tourist areas. “I saw that they were getting $15 an hour to rent these things,” Bricklin says. “That was at a time when these things only cost a couple hundred dollars. We’re talking about a real return on investment.”

But there was a huge issue in the rental market: the manual transmission. At the time, most people did know how to drive a car with a manual gearbox; but riding a scooter was something else entirely. Vespas and Lambrettas shifted gears via a twist of the left handgrip. It’s not particularly challenging if you own one and have time to acclimate, but if you’re just renting the two-wheeler for a couple of hours in Florida, you’ll stand a decent chance of getting hurt. Most of the companies that rented these bikes had little in the way of insurance and would get sued out of existence after their first summer.

Bricklin handled part of it with a dollar-per-rental insurance fee to State Farm, but the danger still remained, until he read something intriguing. “I read a little ad in the Wall Street Journal, about a guy who has 450 Rabbit motor scooters in the New England area,” Bricklin recalls. “So I fly to Boston to meet him, and he has himself a little airplane, and he has 450 scooters on rental, and they have automatic transmissions. Oh my god, I think I died and went to heaven. I’ve got automatic transmissions and I have insurance.”

The Rabbit was the product of Fuji Heavy Industries, which had been in the transportation and aerospace business since 1953. The first Rabbit scooter, the S-1, was essentially a reverse-engineered version of Powell’s two-wheeler, a crude machine with an eight-inch wheel and no suspension. In 1957, though, Fuji set out to build a better bike than the Italians, and succeeded. Their top-of-the-line model was the Fuji Rabbit Superflow S601, a true luxury scooter that beat anything available at the time with innovative features that made riding one as easy as twisting the throttle.

These bikes used the basic scooter design pioneered by Lambretta: a sheetmetal body hung from a strong tubular steel chassis. Attached to that engine was a beast of an engine: A 200-cc engine capable of rocketing these handsome bikes to 65 miles per hour. While Vespa and Lambretta owners would be kicking their bikes over for years to come, the Rabbit Superflow S601 came standard with electric start, another feature that would make these bikes a lot more appealing to the swells renting bikes on Martha’s Vineyard. The rear suspension was an air shock, which riders could inflate or deflate depending on whether they were carrying a passenger.

The key, though, was the Superflow torque converter. This wasn’t some belt-drive snowmobile transmission; it’s a fluid-filled converter like you’d find in front of a TH350. Riders would step through the Rabbit’s attractive bodywork, turn the key, push the start button, release the parking brake, and whoosh off to their destination at fifteen bucks an hour. “Made for the enjoyment of a gentleman,” claimed the marketing materials from American Rabbit Corporation, the San Diego-based importer of these innovative bikes (more on them in a minute).

As if to accent the “gentleman” part of the marketing plan, in 1959, Fuji paid for a barnstorming tour of Europe for fledgling conductor Seiji Ozawa, who would later become the music director of the Boston Symphony Orchestra for 29 years. “Seiji Ozawa had pestered companies all over the country for sponsorship that would fund his voyage to Europe and help fulfill his dream of learning classical music in the place of its birth,” read an article in the Bangkok Post. “Only one firm—Fuji Heavy Industries—was prepared to take a gamble on this precociously talented young man, supplying a moped to help him get around the continent.” The “moped” was a Rabbit S201. At each stop, the guitar-wielding, scooter-riding Ozawa set up connections between local distributors and his Japanese benefactor.

The Japanese scooters were an easy sell for Bricklin, who agreed to partner with the Boston-based Rabbit rental agent and pay off the $75,000 loan he had obtained with a local bank. For his investment, Bricklin allowed his partner to keep the rental revenues, and he secured the North American distribution of these amazing bikes.

Or so he thought.

Remember American Rabbit Corporation? They were the sole distributor in the United States, not Bricklin’s new partner. “I get a Telex together to Fuji, telling them how excited I am, and how do I order a couple thousand scooters,” recalls Bricklin. “I get a Telex back asking who am I, and don’t I know that they sold their [Rabbit] factory to Israel, and that they’re in the process of dismantling it?” The last Fuji Rabbit scooters had rolled off the line just before Bricklin inked his deal.

Bricklin suddenly found himself with $75,000 invested in a distributorship through some kind of a forged contract. “All they know is that they have to be nice to me,” Bricklin says, recalling his first trip to Fuji. “We meet with the board, and everybody’s really sorry I got screwed.”

To salve Bricklin’s hurt feelings and his bedraggled pocketbook, Fuji executives took him on a tour of the plant, where he saw the Subaru 360 and the upcoming Star, marketed in Japan as the FF-1. “I really wanted that car,” Bricklin remembers. The 360 was the product he was offered, though. Thanks to a 1000-pound threshold, the 360 wasn’t required to comply with NHTSA’s new FMVSS safety requirements, something that Bricklin figured he could exploit for the first few years until a proper car like the FF-1 came his way.

Bricklin founded Subaru of America to import the 360, on the strength of America’s love for small air-cooled, rear engine cars like the Volkswagen Beetle, but the 360 was never greeted warmly here. A 1970 issue of Consumer Reports labeled the car “Not Acceptable,” essentially sealing its fate in a cresting wave of consumer advocacy after the publication of Ralph Nader’s Unsafe at Any Speed in 1965. In 1971, Bricklin left Subaru and launched a racing franchise—essentially a go-kart track with adult-sized cars—called FasTrack, which he used as a means of disposing of 10,000 360s he had imported. Bricklin hired Meyers Manx creator Bruce Meyers to develop a fiberglass body for the cars, and fitted them with nerf bars.

The idea never took off, but Bricklin continued to push forward. He developed his own car, the Bricklin SV-1, in 1974; imported Zastava automobiles from Yugoslavia under the Yugo brand beginning in 1985; and, in 2002, embarked on a three-year quest to be the first importer of a Chinese automobile into the United States.

53 years later, Bricklin is still hustling. In 2013, Rolling Stone called him “brash, bombastic, and pathologically prone to betting the farm on pie-in-the-sky automotive endeavors.” With a network of 600 dealers from coast to coast, and a new 250,000-square-foot headquarters in Camden, New Jersey, Subaru of America proves that Bricklin wasn’t the P.T. Barnum he’s often made out to be. And according to Subaru’s national sales training manager, Mike Whelan, there’s still a Fuji Rabbit in SoA’s collection.

***

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If there’s ever been a blue-chip collector car almost right out of the box, it’s the 1955 to 1957, or Tri-Five, Chevrolet. From the second these cars arrived—even before—they ignited a passion that hasn’t been extinguished in 65 years.

The story of the 1955 Chevrolet is nearly impossible to tell without recalling the exuberance of immediate post-war America. There were few, if any, new vehicles in the years between 1941 and 1948, and 1949 cars were a rehash of what came before. In 1949, Ford came out of the gate with a revolutionary design, redesigned from the ground up with a new chassis, coil-sprung front suspension, longitudinal leaf springs, and a futuristic, Jet Age design.

Ford set the pace, selling 1,118,740 cars in 1949. Chevrolet still had a banner year, but it was falling behind Ford with 1,109,958 cars, and Ford was already tweaking its new design year by year, from 1950 to 1952. Meanwhile, Chevrolet was selling a car that had its roots in 1941. The bowtie cars were redesigned, for sure, but they shared all their mechanicals with cars from before the war. 1950 marked the introduction of the Bel Air trim level, with plenty of upscale features and, for the first time, a Powerglide automatic transmission, exclusive to the Deluxe and Bel Air.

At this point, in 1952, Chevrolet boss Harlow “Red” Curtice realized that his company’s next bread-and-butter car needed to set the world afire. It was a mythic battle.

“For the entire auto industry, 1955 will also be a year of decision. The fight to sell cars will be the roughest in history,” ran a story in the November 1, 1954 issue of Time magazine. “To get ready for it, the automen have spent $1.3 billion on the greatest number of model changes ever. Not only are Ford and Chevy at each other’s throats, but Chrysler is out to get back the big share of the market that it lost to both of them this year.”

The 1955 Chevrolet went from a clay model to a full-blown marketing plan in about 18 months. The clay-model reveal—held under unimaginable security—was described in that Time magazine story.

“Only a handful of people were allowed in the room; few even knew its location,” the story read. “There for inspection by Harlow H. (“Red”) Curtice, president of General Motors Corp., was the topmost secret of the greatest manufacturing corporation in the world—a full-sized, blue-and-ivory clay model of the Chevrolet for 1955.”

Some of the most notable people in Chevrolet’s history had a hand in the car’s development. Ed Cole drove the idea from its inception and made the Chevrolet division a worldwide engineering powerhouse, taking the engineering staff from 850 people to over 3000 in a matter of months. Assistant chief engineer Harry Barr was selected for both the small-block V-8 engine and the chassis. Assistant chief engineer Ellis Premo led the charge in body development and was the liaison between Cole’s Chevrolet Engineering Division, GM Styling, and Fisher Body. Chevrolet director of R&D Morris Olley—the man who developed GM’s A-arm setup in 1930–worked on suspension design.

That perfectly proportioned body? Harley Earl got the credit, like he did for every design that left the gates at GM at the time, but it was Clare MacKichan who took over the Chevrolet Styling Studio in April 1951 and shepherded the car through all of its design approvals. Carl Renner came along with MacKichan in 1951 and focused his attention on the Nomad wagon, the hood bird, the beltline, and most of the car’s space-age instrument panel.

With the clay model approved, the marketing push began in earnest in 1954, along with that cover of Time. Through a 2022 filter, when most manufacturers can barely muster interest in an introduction at an auto show, the marketing for the 1955 Chevrolet was insane.

At the time, Chevrolet had a staggering 7500 stores across the country. (Today there aren’t even 3000.)

“Outside the Chevrolet agencies, hundreds of machines spewed forth varicolored bubbles by day,” read a contemporary account of the weeks leading up to the launch. “By night huge spotlights swiveled their beams across the sky. Dealers hung up miles of flags, banners, and placards, hired clowns and calliopes, rented dinner jackets for their salesmen, splashed teaser ads through the press.”

The advance promotional bill for this car reportedly cost $3,500,000—nearly $40 million in 2022 dollars. Chevrolet reportedly gave away 2,131,000 balloons and 1,016,920 bottles of Prince Matchabelli perfume, plus hundreds of thousands of pencils, yardsticks, potholders, key cases, and beanies, all in service of alerting the car-buying public that this new vehicle had arrived.

It was reported that 20 million people entered Chevrolet’s 7500 stores over a matter of weeks in 1954. That’s twelve percent of the country’s entire population. The attention appeared to work. In 1955, between the 150, 210, and Bel Air trims, Chevrolet sold 1.8 million models, a staggering 64 percent increase in sales from that year of pent-up demand in 1949.

The 1955 car was an unqualified success not only on the sales floor but on the track. Compact and lightweight, with a base horsepower rating of 162 hp, or 180 hp with the dual exhaust and four-barrel carb, the small-block V-8 was a smash hit among racers. It would slowly begin to amass more and more victories over the next three years.

It’s interesting to examine the 1955 season. Fonty Flock piloted a ’55 Chevrolet to victory at Columbia Speedway in March that year, but the next win wouldn’t come until Herb Thomas crossed the line in Darlington in September.

Contrast those two wins with what occurred in 1957: Chevrolet dominated 21 races that year, only bested by Ford, who had 28. The only other competitive cars that year came from Oldsmobile (four wins) and Pontiac (two). Out of 53 races that year, Buck Baker won ten and Jack Smith won four in Chevrolets. If you’re looking for the genesis of the “Ford versus Chevy” rivalry, here it is, on the NASCAR circuit in 1957.

All of this taken in total—the outstanding design, the flexing of engineering muscle, the racing victories, the million bottles of Prince Matchabelli—combined to make the 1955 to 1957 Chevrolet Bel Air a bona fide icon within the three years it was available.

They were an indelible part of American culture from the get-go. In 1962, a trilby-wearing James Bond takes out his captor in a 1957 Bel Air convertible in Dr. No. In 1971, Monte Hellman’s film Two Lane Blacktop used a pair of ’55s, and two years later in 1973 when the same cars wound up in American Graffiti. Those cars were just 18 years old at the time, which is kind of like learning the Beatles went from the Star Club to complete dissolution in just eight years.

These cars are still—and always will be—the epitome of the classic American car.

Charting the changes

The changes year-to year are easy to track, since we’re only talking about three years of production. However, the year-to-year changes are voluminous, even if you leave out the tweaks to trim and appearance.

“They’re all one-year-only cars,” says Matt Powell, shop manager at MetalWorks in Eugene, Oregon. The shop specializes in the restoration and restomodification of 1955 through 1957 Chevrolets and has a long list of clients that have either brought cars back to original appearance or gone the hot-rod route.

1955

The Hot One, as the Bel Air would be marketed, had all the features of the two lower trims (150 and 210) but had a massive list of additional, standard equipment. All Bel Air variants came with carpet, chrome headliner bands, chrome fender spears, stainless-steel window moldings, full wheel covers, and that distinctive, Ferrari-inspired egg-crate grille. Models late in the year wore a gold Bel Air script.

The top-shelf Bel Air was available in two-door Sedan, four-door Sedan, two-door Nomad wagon, or two-door Sport Coupe (pronounced “coo-pay” in Chevrolet’s 1955 Motorama film):

The Bel Air Nomad was interesting in its significant differences from the other cars. It only shared front fender and door trim with the rest of the Bel Air family. For 1955 only, it had fully radiused rear wheel openings, versus the skirted fenders of the rest of the cars. The Bel Air Nomad shared its frameless door glass with the two-door coupe and four-door hardtop.

Engines included the 123-hp, 216-cubic-inch inline-six; the 136-hp, 235-cubic-inch Blue Flame inline-six; and the 265-cubic-inch small-block V-8. While Chevrolet did offer a V-8 in its D-series in 1917, this was really the first Chevrolet V-8 produced in significant numbers. The engine was a modern design with overhead valves, a high compression ratio, and a short stroke. The base V-8 had a two-barrel carb and a single exhaust, but the Power Pack option provided a four-barrel and dual exhaust for 180 hp. A Super Power Pack offered later in 1955 dialed up the compression even higher, yielding another 15 hp.

The 1955 Chevrolet Bel Air was packed with innovation, from swing-type pedals that eliminated holes in the floor and offered more space for feet to the new “Sweep Sight” windshield that not only looked good but provided a wide view of the road ahead. Additional high-tech features included tubeless tires, “extra large” brakes, and a Hotchkiss driveshaft in place of the old torque tube from the previous generation of Chevrolet cars.

Nearly everything could be ordered with power-assist, from brakes to steering to seats to windows. Bel Airs with V-8s could be equipped with air conditioning, a new option for Chevrolet at the time. These configurations also got a heavy-duty alternator and could be ordered with either transmission.

The transmission offerings at the time were a three-speed manual at the base level and a two-speed Powerglide as an option.

1956

Out of the three years of production, the 1956 is something of an outlier. The 1955 is recognized for its relative cleanliness and that Maranello-inspired grille, while the 1957 is outlandishly bedecked in every chrome accessory imaginable. The 1956 sits somewhere in the middle, but its extensive improvements go well beyond aesthetics.

Design-wise, the car wore a wider grille opening, turn signals moved up to the grille, and fatter chrome spears on the flanks. Taillights had a more jet-exhaust appearance, and the left-side fuel filler/taillight dropped down, rather than swinging to the left as before.

The Bel Air Nomad wore the same fascia updates as the rest of the cars and received standard two-tone paint. The one-year-only, radiused rear-wheel openings were eliminated, in favor of the same style used on the sedans and coupes.

The Bel Air trim level extended to seven body styles in 1956, with the new four-door hardtop Sport Sedan, four-door Bel Air Beauville station wagon, and the two-door Convertible. New equipment for 1956 included a lot of safety technology, such as optional seat belts, shoulder harnesses, and dash pads.

Engines were revised to eliminate the base six-cylinder. Instead, the range started with the Blue Flame 140, which superseded the two sixes offered in 1955 with 8:1 compression and a high-lift cam.

The next step up the ladder was the Turbo-Fire V-8, which for 1956 received significant changes. Regardless of horsepower ratings, the V-8 received hydraulic lifters, which were only available on cars equipped with the Powerglide automatic in 1955. A full-flow oil filter in its own housing was mounted under the engine to the left of the oil pan. The filter was a factory option, replacing the dealer-optional oil filter that stood on top of the engine block.

The base V-8 with a manual transmission was unchanged, but when a buyer purchased the Powerglide automatic, the V-8 had a higher-lift camshaft, which raised engine output to 170 hp. The Power Pack came with a four-barrel carb and dual exhaust, along with 9.25:1 compression. The Bel Air wagons got the Power Pack as standard equipment, including the dual exhaust that wasn’t available in 1955 thanks to the shape of the fuel tank. The engine also got a heat riser on the intake to prevent icing.

Spring rates were reduced for all Bel Air models with the exception of the convertible and the wagons, due to their increased weight. Caster angle increased by one degree, and the tie-rod ends were raised a bit to accommodate the change. Rear spring hangers were widened by an inch in order to fit thicker rubber bushings, and the nine-passenger wagon got a six-leaf spring pack.

Even the wiring harness got an update. In place of one continuous web, the main harness terminated at a plug in the firewall, where an extension harness plugged in to power the lights, horns, and voltage regulator. Self-canceling turn signals were standard across the board in 1956.

1957

“Exciting new looks,” “zippy new power,” “luxurious new interiors,” and a “revolutionary new Turboglide” automatic transmission were all called out on the opening spread of the brochure in 1957. Gold anodized trim is the first thing that jumps off the sheetmetal as a differentiator between 1957 and the other two years, along with full-disc wheel covers and a “rakish sweep of chrome.” In the four-door Sedan, the car boasted 75 square inches more glass area than the previous years did.

Up front, the grille changed for a third time, into a combination grille/bumper highlighted by its “note of massiveness and width.” The grille bar terminated in parking lights. The fenders were redesigned to push the headlamps further out, and the hood has twin wind splits for the first time, in place of the original hood bird. At the rear, the tail lamps transformed into the classic, chrome-surrounded, fin-with-afterburner design.

The fuel-filler door remained in the fin, but, for the third consecutive year, sported a changed design—this time, to incorporate the vertical chrome alone the fin.

Inside, the ’57 Bel Air models featured new contemporary styling with redesigned “slenderly crafted seats” upholstered in Jacquard-loomed cloth and vinyl. The seat tracks were redesigned to yield a greater range of motion and front seat headroom. The ’57 Bel Air also had larger door armrests than the prior year.

Mechanically, the Blue Flame six was still the base engine, and the optional 265-cubic-inch V-8 still provided 165 hp. Sporty drivers stepped up to the new 283-cubic-inch motor, which was available in four different levels of performance: The two barrel–equipped 283 delivered 185 hp. The Super Turbo Fire had a four-barrel and dual exhaust, with a bump to 9.5:1 compression for 220 hp. The “Corvette” V-8 was rated at 245 hp, and a competition version of the engine went up to 270 hp with a bespoke camshaft and a high-speed valvetrain.

Aside from the availability of the new Turboglide transmission, the biggest news for 1957 was the Rochester Ramjet mechanical fuel injection system. That system was originally intended to completely replace the four-barrel carburetors, according to the info in the engineering booklet supplied to Chevrolet dealers. It raised horsepower on the Corvette V-8 to 283, which fit neatly into Chevrolet’s “one horsepower per cubic inch” marketing plan.

According to a contemporary story in Popular Mechanics, 34.4 percent of 1957 Chevrolet owners wanted fuel injection. But the reality told another story. The primary beef with the early system on the ’57 was that the cold-start fuel enrichment was either on or off; since it did not gradually step down, it produced running issues when the engine was cold. Vacuum-operated crank signal valves often failed, causing rich running conditions that led a lot of fuel-injection systems to be abandoned in favor of a traditional four-barrel carburetor.

Who to know before inspection

If you’re bound to purchase a 1955 to 1957 Bel Air, there are nearly limitless resources at your disposal. Tri-Five Chevys has a forum with over 3450 members active in the restoration and use of these cars. The American Tri-Five Association is a more traditional club that offers a number of benefits including a color print magazine, discounts to club-sponsored shows and parts suppliers, and free shipping on items from some vendors. Depending on where you live, there’s a community of like-minded enthusiasts in your area, either as a chapter of one of these organizations or an independent club.

VIN decoding is relatively simple because these Chevy’s VINs are short. On the unfortunate side, the codes don’t tell you much about the car other than trim level and body style, production year, and build location. You can find a version of the VIN decoder at the San Jose Classic Chevys website or at parts supplier Classic Industries.

We asked Matt Powell at MetalWorks regarding which specific years, body styles and options are most desirable. He says that this decision largely swings on what you’re looking for out of the car.

Most of his customers at this point are looking for cars to modify, swapping the body onto a more modern chassis and driveline. In that case he’s clear in his advice: “We’ll have $60,000 to $70,000 in paint and bodywork alone,” he says. “Find a car that you like the appearance of and use that as a starting point.”

If you’re looking to restore one of these cars, Powell’s advice is to find one that’s as untouched as possible, so that you know what you’re getting into before you even start. The earliest of these cars are now 65 years old, so finding one with original paint and interior is tough; but you don’t want a car with layers of paint hiding lousy bodywork.

Factory build, or “Regular Order Passenger,” sheets are much less common to find in 1955 to 1957 cars, having been lost to time or never stuck under a seat in the first place. When they are found, they’re an invaluable resource for finding out what options were on the car, and they’re much simpler to read than some of the later order sheets.

Cowl tags are important for learning paint and trim information. Classic Industries provides a Trim Tag Decoder at its website. Major options like air conditioning, power windows, and seats will appear here, but minor options won’t.

At the moment, the GM Heritage Center’s Historical Information Packets that were available free of charge seem to be gone from the internet. Our sources at GM tell us that this is a temporary situation, so check back with the site frequently to learn more. These packets provide a wealth of information, including original brochures, technical specifications, order guides, and more. This resource was up and running for years up until about a month before this writing, and the information within hasn’t been made available again.

Before you buy

These cars are as susceptible to rust as any mid-century vehicle. All of the usual cautions apply: Look for rust in the frame, body mounts, door bottoms, fender bottoms, rocker panels, and both passenger-side and trunk floors. The good news is that just about everything for these cars, from trim pieces to entire body shells, is available on the aftermarket.

Matt Powell gives a few words of caution: “Nomads and [9-passenger Beauville] wagons are hard to come by, and some of the individual parts for those cars are expensive.” He points out that the paint divider on the wagon can be $900 per pair, and are only available from recyclers. “You can buy those for $50 to $80 a set for most of the other bodystyles,” he says.

Exterior trim, when it’s present, can be overtightened and misapplied, leaving the trim dented and distorted. The trim can be restored, but it can be a labor sinkhole.

Mechanically, these cars are pretty straightforward with a few exceptions. The early cars, or those without an oil filter at all, can be the subject of multiple engine rebuilds. Larger pistons will be usually be marked on the top, visible with a borescope that will at least tell you where you’re starting.

Loads of these cars have been updated with Rochester fuel injection, even ones didn’t have it from the factory. Conversely, loads of these cars have had their Rochester systems removed and left on the scrap-metal pile circa 1958. Anything that provides information as to whether or not the car should’ve had fuel injection is key in assessing the car’s value.

As far as which car to buy? Matt Powell says that it’s all up to the buyer’s interest, but that the two-door Sedan offers great curb appeal with fewer issues than the two-door Sport Coupe. “The window flippers on the Coupe are often a problem,” he says, “and the body on the coupe tends to sag more than the Sedan would.”

What to pay

“The range of values of these cars is huge depending on engine and body style, but on the whole their values have been incredibly steady relative to the rest of the market,” says Andrew Newton, senior auction editor at Hagerty.

“Many 1950s American cars have been flat or gone down, but Tri-Five Chevys, being as recognizable as they are, have at least kept their value in the broad sense, but have dropped approximately 4.5 percent over the last five years at the median, condition #2 [Excellent] level.”

It’s also hard to put a value on a “Bel Air,” since there were so many body-style variations after the first year. Naturally, Sport Coupes and Convertibles are going to sell for significantly more money than a four-door Sedan. In the same condition, a two-door Nomad is going to sell for orders of magnitude more than the 9-passenger Beauville.

Record auction prices for a modified 1955 Bel Air Convertible hit $363,000 at the 2019 Barrett-Jackson Scottsdale auction. An unmodified, restored 1957 Bel Air Convertible sold for $198,000 at the same auction a year later.

Of all of the cars Hagerty insures, the 1955 to 1957 Chevrolet Bel Air is the sixth most popular. Quoted values for these cars have increased 17 percent over the last three years, according to the Hagerty valuation team. As you’d expect, the typical owner skews toward the older end of the range but not as dramatically as they would for other American cars from the 1950s.

Gen-X surprisingly quotes 29 percent of Bel Airs, though they make up 32 percent of the overall collector car market. Millennials, who make up 21 percent, drop right off to 13 percent of quotes. Gen Z barely owns these cars, representing just 1 percent of the quotes in Hagerty’s database, despite comprising 7 percent of the overall market.

As you’d expect, Boomers are the core audience, quoting 47 percent of all ’55 to ’57 Bel Airs in Hagerty’s database, while making up nearly the same percentage of the market (32) as Gen-X. Pre-boomers quote 10 percent of these cars, while owning just a five percent share of the market as a whole.

In general, all of the typical information holds true for these cars: Buy the best one you can afford, and let the previous owner take the hit for restoration cost, provided you can have the car looked over by a qualified professional.

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As I wrote about in the first installment of this story, I have a 1966 Jeep CJ-5. The engine is the 225-cu-in “Dauntless” V-6 that Jeep used from 1966 to 1972, prior to the development of its own inline-six cylinder engine. Jeep bought the engine and all its tooling from Buick in 1966, after Buick decided to forego V-6s entirely for a short period.

Buick later bought the engine back from Jeep during the 1970s fuel crisis and used them in compact and midsize cars like the Apollo, reworking the engine with an EVEN-FIRE setup. Why, you ask? To eliminate a lot of the, erm, issues I’m about to describe …

Odd EFI quirks for the odd-fire V-6

I spent an inordinate amount of time on the Early CJ5 Forum, one of the Holley Sniper EFI groups on Facebook, as well as the Jeep Dauntless 225 V-6 Facebook group. These forums are a wealth of information, but finding it sometimes requires wading through misinformation.

According to many forum posters, EFI doesn’t work at all with the odd-fire V-6. Given that I’d seen it work on several Jeeps with the same engine, I doubted this assertion. Many posts also professed that installing a Pertronix Ignitor (electronic ignition) was practically the key to happiness. At $75 the Pertronix was a cheap enough investment, but for me it netted zero improvement in the way the Jeep ran.

My next move was to upgrade to electronic ignition with a high-energy ignition (HEI) distributor. DUI makes a beautiful example here in the United States, but at over $400, I was a little hesitant to gamble on it. I opted instead for a cheaper imported example, from The Jeepster Man. He’s a trusted supplier to the Jeep Commando scene, and a lot of those vehicles run the same engine as my CJ-5. The upgraded distributor’s more reliable spark was appreciated, though it did nothing to solve my idle issues. I hoped that maybe installing a filter between the ECU and the tach output would smooth it out. No luck.

Back to the drawing board. Painfully obvious was that something about how the Dauntless 225 V-6 fires was providing an inconsistent tach signal to the ECU. In turn, it was causing the idle air control (IAC) to go nuts.

On the Early CJ5 Forum, I found a post from a guy who had the same issue with his Howell EFI setup; he installed a crank trigger from a Corvette to get a more consistent signal. Try as I might, though, I had a hard time interpreting how it was installed, let alone how I’d wire it to my Holley setup.

Hall Effect to the rescue

Finally, on June 1, 2022, at 7:43 p.m., I got my answer. Curt Stechert, a member of the Jeep Dauntless 225 V-6 group, relayed his experience. Instead of the Rochester GC-style throttle body, he’d opted for a Motorcraft 2300-style, with an adapter provided by Brennan’s Garage. For a clean, consistent tach signal, he purchased a Holley 554-124 Hall Effect sensor. There are many cheaper sensors on the market that will do the same thing, but I opted to follow his example and buy this one for a couple of reasons: First, the instructions provided with the Hall Effect kit were helpful in wiring it to one of Holley’s other products. And second, the included connectors made wiring it a lot easier. That said, you can buy just about any Hall Effect sensor and figure out how to make it work.

What is a Hall Effect sensor? Essentially an electromagnet. When it’s powered, every time some piece of magnetic material passes within .040 inch and .080 inch (the closer the better, according to the instructions), it sends a signal. I installed three 5/16-inch bolts through the harmonic balancer at 120-degrees apart to act as targets. I bent up a piece of sheetmetal, bolted it to the fuel pump blockoff plate, and installed the Hall Effect sensor through it. The Hall Effect sensor has three wires: One goes to keyed power. The second is a ground, and the third is the output, which I’d wire to the ECU.

The very important part: This setup meant I would no longer be using the tach output from the coil on the distributor. If you retain that functionality and also try to wire a crank trigger, you’re going to destroy the ECU. I unplugged the connection entirely and tied the yellow wire up and out of the way. The Holley Sniper ECU has a twisted set of green and purple wires which reads a crank signal from something like an MSD (Multiple Spark Discharge) box. The purple is positive and the green is negative. The Holley Sniper kit includes an additional purple wire that plugs right into this twisted harness. I wired that to the signal output of the Hall Effect sensor.

My EFI Eureka moment

The final step was to reinitialize the Holley Sniper using the Startup Wizard on the handheld unit. As you go through the process, you’ll be asked for the source of your tach signal. Instead of “COIL,” you’ll select “MSD box.” Once I’d saved the settings, I cycled the key, then turned it all the way to the START position.

Instantly, the engine fired to life. It settled into a steady idle in seconds. The hunting from the IAC was completely gone. I let it warm up to operating temperature and checked to see where the IAC was reading. Ideally, it’s in the 8 to 12 range—exactly where it sat.

On the road, the stalling behavior I experienced weeks before was completely gone. Zero bogging, zero stalling, effortless acceleration and easy starts. Success!

Over the last week, I’ve driven the Jeep farther and farther from home. Yesterday, I drove it out to Clapham’s Transmissions about 25 miles from home, where I was having a slipping clutch addressed. With the newfound power that the Dauntless 225 was putting out, the clutch suddenly needed more attention.

Final lessons

If you’re driving something with one of the engines that Holley supports with a Hyperspark distributor and you’re thinking about doing this, just go for it. You’re going to love it, and within a day, you’re going to have a more reliable, powerful, and efficient-running vehicle.

If you have one of the engines that’s sort of supported—in that a Holley Sniper throttle body will sit on the intake manifold properly—be aware that you will have to investigate on your own how to make it work. Early on I called Holley for technical assistance but never managed to get anyone on the phone. I also called vendor EFI Systems Pro, which had advertised its one year of free tech support as a great advantage to purchasing it there; I did get a bit of help on some basic points, but the larger question of how to make this engine work with a Holley Sniper EFI remained.

The biggest help came from the two posts from the Early CJ5 forum and the Jeep Dauntless 225 V-6 group on Facebook. Both provided invaluable assistance, specific to my particular situation.

Don’t be afraid to do dive into these waters. In all, my investment totaled about $1600, not including the fuel tank I needed to replace anyway. What I got out of it was fat spark from an HEI distributor, excellent power and reliability from fuel injection, and a lot more feedback about what my engine was doing from the handheld monitor, which I mounted just ahead of the steering wheel. At a quick glance, I now can monitor my engine temperature, RPM, and air/fuel ratio. If I want to increase or decrease the idle, it’s a touchscreen input away.

I’m looking forward to many fun drives with this Jeep.

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The post How to make EFI work with an odd-fire V-6: Part 2 appeared first on Hagerty Media.

When I bought my 1966 Jeep CJ-5 Tuxedo Park IV back in December 2020, I wasn’t initially sold on the 225-cubic-inch V-6 it featured. Jeep people—and having owned a 1983 CJ-7, a 1982 J10, and a 2003 Jeep Wrangler X, I consider myself a “Jeep person”—are a weird bunch. There’s a hierarchy that puts CJ stuff at the top, and every successive generation looks down upon the generation that succeeds it, except for the YJ, which everybody seems to ignore universally.

It’s the same with engines. The 258-cu-in inline six that people tend to look askance at anything but, while everybody thinks that the 225-cu-in V-6 Jeep used from 1966 to 1972 isn’t a “real Jeep engine.” That’s because it’s really not. It’s a Buick engine that Jeep purchased lock, stock, and barrel from GM to compete with the V-8 in the first-generation Ford Bronco, then sold back to Buick after it developed its own inline six.

Whether it’s a “real” Jeep engine or not, I’ve come to absolutely love everything about it. It offers more power than not only the 134-cu-in Willys Hurricane four-cylinder, but significantly more horsepower than the 258. It’s impossible to compare apples to apples, because the Dauntless 225’s horsepower was advertised as SAE gross, while the 258 was advertised as SAE net, but a few contemporary dyno results tell the story. The 258 generally dynos at 88 hp, which corresponds more closely with the 97-hp SAE net figures in the Jeep literature. A Dauntless 225 usually hits 120 hp on a dyno, which again sort of makes sense given the 160-hp SAE gross figure it was advertised with in 1966.

In stock form, the power delivery is smooth, and in a short wheelbase CJ-5 with no rear seat and no top, it feels like you’re sporting an LS motor under the hood. I fell in love with it as soon as I drove it, remembering the sluggish performance of my CJ-7.

What I didn’t love was the carburetor. The Dauntless 225 originally came with a Rochester 2GC two-barrel carb. In general, these are fine carburetors that have a lot to offer, but the one that was on my Jeep was terrible. It had some issue with the accelerator pump that neither I, nor my old-school Oldsmobile stalwart hot rod buddy Jim Crandall could reliably figure out. He took the carb apart twice, and both times it would run well for a bit and then resume bogging when I stepped on the throttle. I had to drive it around with the choke feathered all the time.

I got sick of messing with it and decided I wanted to learn more about electronic fuel injection for the reliability, the tunability, the slight power increase, and the potential fuel economy benefits. I’m not looking to make this a Prius by any means, but if I can burn fuel more efficiently, I’ll do it every time.

What follows is not only a story about why I chose the DIY EFI setup I did, but also how I installed it. There’s a second part about why it was such a challenge to make this particular engine run well, though it didn’t need to be that hard—if I’d been provided some documentation from the get-go.

DIY EFI

Whether you’ve been paying attention or not, the DIY EFI market has transformed itself over the last dozen years or so. Early on, Holley offered a TBI setup. I remember a mechanic at a garage that I worked at installing one on his 1983 Camaro circa 1993 and feeling like it was some kind of witchcraft he was messing with.

Thirty years later, you can buy an off-the-shelf DIY EFI setup from a number of suppliers. The revolution happened when a big portion of the vintage car community started messing with Megasquirt ECUs. People who never dreamed EFI was possible were suddenly installing it themselves on their Volvo B20 engines, and a lot of hobbyists watched over their shoulders. I looked into Megasquirt, but I had to be honest with myself. I’m no mechanic. I’m a pretty good parts changer, but I’ve never been great at the theory behind any of this stuff, and my talents with electronic gear are even more slim. I was looking more for an all-in-one setup.

Howell was the next logical choice. It sort of bridges the gap between extreme DIY and something out of a box that isn’t meant to be messed with too much. The Howell setup is compelling, because it does offer a lot of advantages. First off, it’s based on a GM 1227747 ECM. That doesn’t mean that Howell reverse engineered it; it uses that actual part number, which has reliably powered millions of GM vehicles for decades. It also uses a remanufactured 4.3-liter throttle body, so the components here are pretty bulletproof.

But the Holley Sniper EFI kit was compelling, too, mostly because it’s kind of designed for half-talented people like myself. I also liked the fact that instead of having to plug in a laptop every time I wanted to change anything, the Holley Sniper EFI had a simple touchscreen that I could mount to the dash and change things on the fly.

My decision to go the Holley Sniper EFI route was also influenced by Brian Rossini at BDR Automotive in Holliston, Massachusetts. He’d installed a Holley Sniper in a Land Rover Series III, which had been converted with a 250-cu-in Stovebolt Chevy engine, and he was thrilled with its performance. Over the last few years, he’s installed Sniper EFI on Grand Wagoneers and Chevrolet 350s, all with excellent results.

In the end, what helped me make the decision was that Brian allowed me to use his shop to do the conversion, which would help me out immensely as I ran into questions during the install. His experience with these systems would prove invaluable over the coming months, even as I did most of the installation myself.

The odd-fire wildcard

My biggest question in all of this would be whether or not I could use a Holley Sniper EFI setup with the odd-fire Dauntless 225 V-6. We could—and probably should—write a dissertation on how weird the odd-fire V-6 is, but this guy’s video does a way better job explaining it than we ever could. If you’ve got 40 minutes, watch every second of this, because it really helped me figure out what I actually drive:

If you don’t have 40 minutes, here’s the short story: The “odd-fire” V-6 gets its name because of its ignition timing. A 90-degree V-6 has three shared crankpins set 120 degrees apart. The opposing pistons share a crankpin the way they do in a V-8, but the fact that there are only three cylinders on each bank means that the plugs fire at 90-150-90-150-90-150 intervals. You’ll also notice that the firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2. If that wasn’t weird enough, if you look at the poles on the distributor cap; they’re at uneven intervals, with some close together, and some with LOONG gaps between.

For most other popular engines, Holley sells a Hyperspark distributor that offers the added advantage of the Holley Sniper EFI ECU controlling ignition timing. However, Holley doesn’t sell the Hyperspark distributor the Dauntless 225, largely because there aren’t nearly as many of these engines around as there are 350s, and the timing is, frankly, weird.

“No problem,” I heard from both Holley AND EFI Systems Pro, where I eventually bought the Holley Sniper EFI. “You can even run a stock points distributor!” That’s true, but that’s really the end of the help I got from Holley or EFI Systems Pro.

We’ll get back to the ignition timing conundrum after we go through the Holley Sniper Install.

Installing Holley Sniper EFI

In very general terms, anyone who has some rudimentary mechanical knowledge and access to some basic hand tools can install a Holley Sniper EFI system. It’s not a lot more difficult than installing a carburetor.

I had a few minor things I needed to address with the fuel system anyway. The tank was exhibiting signs of rust inside, so I replaced it with a plastic tank, not wanting to add rust to the equation with a new fuel injection system.

There are also a number of ways to skin the fuel pump cat, but I opted for the Holley 19-360 RetroFit Fuel Tank Pump Module. It’s a returnless system pumping 340 liters per hour, and it sits inside a hole I had to cut in the top of the brand new fuel tank. Note that the system we use is returnless, meaning that the fuel is only flowing in one direction—to the throttle body. You can do that as long as your fuel cap is properly vented. If it’s not, you’ll need a return line, which is simple to plumb with the RetroFit in-tank module.

The first hurdle I ran into was that EFI Systems Pro sent me the wrong Holley Sniper EFI unit. That’s not entirely their fault: Holley makes two of these systems, a small bore and a large bore. I needed the small bore, and got the large bore. Easy enough mistake, but supply chain issues meant that even though I called the day after I got the delivery, getting the small bore that I needed was going to take another five weeks. I put in the original order on December 15. By the time I got the replacement, it was St. Patrick’s Day.

Brian let me keep the CJ-5 at his shop while I waited for the replacement. In the meantime, I installed the fuel tank and the fuel pump, removed the original fuel pump, and did what little wiring and fuel hose routing I could.

Once I got the right Sniper EFI, the entire installation took not even a full day. The instructions in the kit are explicit, and I followed them to the letter, which is where a ton of people seem to have problems.

The throttle body simply bolts onto the manifold, just like a carburetor. The injectors are installed inside the throttle body, as is the ECU, so everything is ready to go pretty much out of the box, with the exception of the electrical connections.

Wiring a Holley Sniper

This is the part of the installation that’s a turnoff to a lot of people, and in online forums, message boards, and Facebook groups it seems to be the source of a lot of frustration and urban myths.

Holley has done a good job countering a lot of these issues by providing a very explicit set of instructions, plus a series of videos, along with a video on how NOT to do your wiring.

Where my install wasn’t going to control the timing of a Hyperspark distributor, it really couldn’t have been more simple. In total, I had six connections to make. If you’re running electric fans, A/C kickdowns, and the like, you’ll make more through a separate harness, but the main harness includes:

• A 12-volt connection directly to the battery, which contains a pre-installed fuse
• A ground connection directly to the battery
• A connection to the fuel pump with a pre-installed relay
• A connection to keyed switched power
• A connection to the coil for a tach signal (More on that later)

I also wanted the handheld monitor to be mounted somewhere on the dash. When I removed the carburetor’s choke knob, I had a hole in the dash with a grommet just the perfect size to run the wire for the handheld touchscreen. I ran the plug through the firewall and plugged it into the main harness.

Holley is EXCEEDINGLY specific on making sure you follow these instructions to the letter. Don’t run the power lead to anything but the battery, for example. They’re also very clear on what kinds of connections to make. If you’re using butt connectors at all, be sure to use quality weatherproof connectors, and buy a good crimper.

That helps alleviate a lot of issues that get blamed on “RF interference.” Sure, if you can hear the spark plugs through your radio, you’re going to want to deal with that ahead of time, but otherwise, this installation is very straightforward, to the point that a person like me can do it easily.

One of two things I needed help with on the initial installation was welding an O2 sensor bung in the exhaust pipe. You can use the supplied clamp-on bung in the installation kit, but don’t. It’s a source of exhaust leaks. I also needed help welding the throttle actuation rod on the CJ5, in order to make it short enough to provide a full swing of the throttle, from closed to wide open. You can come up with other creative solutions for this, but by cutting a piece out of the rod about an inch long and then welding the end back on, I was able to make it work without having to buy another bracket.

With the throttle body in place, the O2 bung threaded in, and all the electrical connections made, we put some gas in it and started to initialize the system. The Holley Sniper EFI handheld has a Startup Wizard that walks you through the entire process. It’s self-explanatory, asking which Sniper EFI model you’re using, the displacement of the engine, the target RPM, where your RPM signal is coming from, and whether you’re using electric fans and A/C kickdowns.

Once all of your data is in place, you finish the Startup Wizard and cycle the key. At that point, you’re ready to start the vehicle.

First startup

At first, and even now, I turn the key to the ON position and let the fuel pump deliver some fuel pressure to the throttle body. It’s not entirely necessary, but I do it anyway. It gives me 30 seconds to buckle my seatbelt.

On the first crank, the engine fired and ran. Keep a close eye on any fuel leaks. I had to tighten the hold-down clamps for the in-tank fuel pump. Other than that, though, we’d achieved some measure of success.

I say “some measure,” because I wasn’t happy with the idle. The Holley Sniper EFI has an Idle Air Control (IAC) valve, which basically works like a choke, figuring out whether you need more or less fuel/air mixture on the fly. The IAC was in constant motion, first feeding fuel, then not, dozens of times a minute.

I took it out for a first drive, and at speed the system worked beautifully, providing ample power, no bogging, and great throttle response. But at idle, it was a mess. I drove it around for a few days, learning more about its reliability as I went. Every time I’d leave the driveway cold, I’d get to the end of my street and the engine would die entirely. It would start right back up again, but something definitely wasn’t right.

It took me several months of messing around to really make it work. In the second part of this story, we’ll get into my 90-day adventure in understanding how both an odd-fire V-6 and electronic fuel injection works.

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The post Installing Holley Sniper EFI on a daunting, odd-fire V-6: Part 1 appeared first on Hagerty Media.

If you’ve been paying any attention to recent auction sales, it would be pretty hard to convince you that the automotive hobby hasn’t turned into a rich person’s game, and the 99 percent have been priced out entirely.

But that’s not true at all. Hundreds of vintage car models have flown, and will continue to fly, under the radar of big-time collectors while still providing all the fun and entertainment you’ve longed for since the first time you saw Bullitt.

Finding these cars means expanding your horizons a bit. No, you’re not going to find a Mustang/Camaro/’Cuda for $3500. But there are tons of interesting vehicles out there that provide an equal dose of amusement for a tenth what you’d pay for household-name vintage metal.

We’ve tried to provide a list of vehicles that hits every segment: Classic American, vintage European, 1970s-era Japanese, hard-working trucks, and SUVs. All of these suggestions are readily available, and have their pros and cons, but we tried to keep the price of entry under $20,000. That sounds like a lot of cash, and it is, but we’ve also provided some examples that are way under that price cap.

1975 Dodge Dart Hang 10

Hagerty Price Guide #3 (Good) condition value: $7400

Who says you can’t buy an A-body for reasonable money? While the heavy-hitters roam the aisles at the big-name auctions for ’Cudas and Challengers, the rest of us can shop the Dart/Duster twins.

Not 30 miles from where we sit, this 1975 Dodge Dart Hang 10 came up for sale on Facebook Marketplace. The surf-inspired Hang 10 debuted in the dead of winter at the Chicago Auto Show in 1973 on the Dart Sport. The show car proved popular enough that Dodge offered Special Trim Option A63 midway through the 1974 model year.

All of the Hang 10s were painted Eggshell White, and featured unique tape stripes on the exterior, culminating in a stylized surfer at the end of the side stripes, ripping a curl over the Dart Sport’s rear quarter panel.

While the exterior was cool, and predicted the “Spirit of ’76” editions to come in the 1976 model year, the interior was the key. First, it featured the 1973 Dart Sport’s “convertriple” fold-down rear seat, which allowed you to stow objects over six-and-a-half feet long. If that wasn’t enough to grab your attention, the upholstery certainly would: White with red and blue stripes over a bright orange carpet.

The example we found on Marketplace was on offer for $13K and featured what appears to be a later Magnum V-8. The photos show no rust, which is a surprise in Massachusetts. At the time of this writing, the post is still up.

1975 Lotus Elite Type 75

HPG #3 (Good) condition value: $9100

If you’re a regular reader of Rob Siegel’s column here at Hagerty, you know he checked out a Lotus Elite in New Hampshire a few weeks ago. He decided to pass, but ever since, I’ve been digging around to see what these odd, wildly 1970s GTs sell for these days.

This one popped up in the great Facebook group Obscure Cars for Sale, which caters to people like me who have no intention of owning something that you see coming and going in everyday traffic.

The Elite Type 75 was manufactured between 1974 and 1982, replacing the Elan Plus 2, offering a driver and three passengers a sporting drive in relative comfort thanks to its shooting brake (read: wagon) body style. In 1980, the Elite Type 75 gave way to the Type 83, essentially the same design with a galvanized frame and a Getrag 265 gearbox. Lotus also offered the Eclat S1, which was the Elite with an abbreviated fastback silhouette.

The Elite was the first Lotus to use the all-aluminum, dual overhead-cam Type 907 four-cylinder, which allowed the GT a top speed of 125 mph.

At the time of its launch, the Elite Type 75 was the world’s most expensive four-cylinder-powered car. Today you can buy one for the cost of a well-used Corolla. This example was on offer for $5500 in San Diego, California, appeared to have no rust, and featured what appears to be a super clean interior. That’s key when buying a vehicle like this, because there’s little-to-no aftermarket for interior components.

The seller described the car as a “project,” but really only pointed out that the car needed “brake work and a valve job,” noting that it hadn’t run in 10 years. He said this fiberglass GT deserved a “body off restoration.” Maybe for San Diego—left to our own devices, we’d drive it as it sits, and never run the risk of seeing another one coming in the opposite direction.

1988 Mazda 929

HPG #3 condition value: N/A

Pretty much any superlative Japanese car from the late 1980s is creeping up in price. And so are the luxurious Mercedes-Benz beaters from the early days of Lexus and Infiniti. Even a J30 Maxima is going to cost you today.

But then there’s this 1988 Mazda 929, which was recently on offer via Bring a Trailer, with a closing date of January 26. With just 44,000 miles on the odometer, this luxury sedan appeared to be in exquisite condition. Finished in Canal Blue over blue cloth interior, Mazda’s short-lived luxury entry features a 3.0-liter V-6 rated at 158 hp.

The exterior is really the last perfect representation of the creased style of Japanese cars from the 1980s. It would only be a few short years before the edges were melted off of every car from every manufacturer. This one still features sharp lines, chrome, and an upright greenhouse with plenty of glass for uninterrupted visibility.

The interior is key—a blend of 1980s Japanese technology overlayed with the faux woodgrain of a Cadillac. This example looks like it’s in impeccable condition inside and out, and it sold for a cool $10,000. Not bad.

1988 Mercury Cougar XR-7

HPG #3 condition value: N/A

Unmodified Fox-body Mustangs are finally starting to edge toward the stratosphere. For decades, these run-of-the-mill pony cars offered serious performance for those of modest means, but those days are quickly coming to an end … Unless you widen your scope to include all the other cars that were based on this chassis. The 1983 through ’88 Mercury Cougar was the middle child, situated between the shorty Mustang and the long-wheelbase Lincoln Mark VII, and it is available at fire-sale prices compared to its stablemates.

This example sold at Hemmings Auctions in April of 2021. It had the hallmarks of a vehicle that should set the pace for values of cars in this class: One owner, ultra-low 37,000 miles, detailed ownership history, in time capsule condition.

While even the XR-7 grade Cougar lacked the high output 5.0-liter V-8 of the other performance Fox-bodies, it’s hard to argue with this one-year-only monochrome exterior preserved in such a great condition. Power windows and a power driver’s seat were added to this Cougar before it left the factory, but automatic headlights didn’t make the cut, making this example a happy medium between a zero-option Mustang and a fully-dressed Mark VII.

At the close of the auction, this stunningly kept Cougar only managed to reach $8250, including bidder’s fees. You couldn’t buy a worn-out Altima for that kind of dough.

1969 Opel GT

HPG #3 condition value: $12,400

Choose any Opel product, really. 1900, GT, Manta … They’re hard to find, and most of the time they’re pretty ratty, but occasionally, these handsome, unique little cars come up for sale priced beautifully.

Not three months ago, I was on the way to Stafford Springs for the annual Ty-Rods swap meet, when this Opel GT caught my eye in the dark, parked on the lawn of a house about two miles away from mine. I made a mental note to check it out on the way home.

Stunning. This 1969 GT had a claimed 26,000 original miles. The interior was showroom fresh and even contained the original AM radio. It featured its original wheels and center caps, a current registration and a current Massachusetts safety inspection sticker.

It looked like it may have been repainted at one point in its life, and the exhaust was hanging a bit low, but for just $4000, I’ve been kicking myself for the last 90 days for not buying it on the spot.

1968 Mercury Monterey (and Park Lane)

HPG #3 condition value (hardtop): $11,400

In general terms, if you’re looking for an American car that isn’t going to cost a fortune, look to the full-size cars from the middle of a brand’s lineup. Buick. Plymouth. Mercury.

Full-size cars usually don’t pull any kind of money. And the mid-tier entry-luxury brands have neither the popularity of the more egalitarian brands like Ford, Dodge, and Chevrolet, nor do they have the cachet of cars from Lincoln, Imperial, or Cadillac.

This 1968 Mercury Park Lane is a perfect example. It shows 54,000 miles, exhibits very little in the way of body issues, and the interior looks mint. There’s a ding on the front quarter, and there might be a little corrosion on the passenger-side rear quarter, but the body looks solid, and the presence of its original woodgrain appliques suggests that this car might be wearing its original paint.

At $15,000, it’s probably way overpriced. In the real world, this car might find a buyer for $10,000 tops, but even at the asking price, you’d be hard-pressed to find another 54,000-mile, original paint two door in a unique trim from 1968 for that kind of dough.

1970 Jeep Wagoneer

HPG #3 condition value: $18,400

A 1986 Grand Wagoneer sells at auction for $145,000 and everybody is convinced the world is coming to an end. Meanwhile, if you can look at the same exact vehicle from about 15 years before, you can find examples under $20K without issue.

The 1980s SJ phenomenon is inexplicable. There isn’t another vehicle in the history of collector cars that simultaneously sits atop the value chart and represents the worst years of production. A smogged 360-cubic-inch two-barrel was good for about 145 horsepower, and when the 1986 Grand Wagoneer was new, it was notorious for often being the last American vehicle that well-heeled shoppers ever purchased, thanks to its grim build quality and 11-mpg fuel economy.

Late 1960s and early 1970s Kaiser Wagoneers rode on the same platform but instead of being some pseudo-luxury vehicle, they were purpose-built to get you, your family, and your gear to the mountains with a minimum of fuss.

Unlike the 1963 to 1966 Wagoneers, all 1968 to 1971 Wagoneers were equipped with four-wheel drive, and like the V-6-powered CJ and Commando, the Wagoneer was powered by a Buick engine, the 350-cubic-inch V-8 known as “Dauntless” in Jeep marketing speak. (The V-6 was also called “Dauntless,” for reasons we can’t explain). The Buick 350 offered more torque at lower rpm than the AMC V-8 offered in earlier years.

This super-clean example sold on Bring a Trailer in November of 2021 for $19,220. If you can’t live without the woodgrain shelf paper, there’s a body shop nearby that can stick it on for you. We promise.

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The third-generation Civic arrived in 1983 as a 1984 model, and it completely changed the game for Honda. This new compact delivered a light, sporty platform that could be folded and pinched into a number of different vehicles. Want a sedan? Got it. Looking for more space? There’s a five-door breadbox wagon or a three-door hatchback that could swallow a good-sized bureau and still get the hatch closed.

But the most notable introduction for 1984 was a certain tiny, Civic-based two-seater hatchback—but what to call it? A hatchback? A GT? A hyper-economy car? Whatever you think it is, Honda named it the CRX. This quirky little thing took center stage on the cover of the 1984 Civic brochure, and it occupied a pretty sizable space inside too.

The Japanese home market used the hyphenated “CR-X” name, while we did away with the punctuation mark in North America. The quarterly Japanese magazine Car Styling ran an incredible preview of the car in 1983, interviewing all of the key staff at Honda responsible for the its design and engineering. “Honda [has] chosen ‘Civic Renaissance’ as the catch phrase symbolizing the concept behind the third-generation model,” the article reads. “The Ballade Sports [as the car was known in Japan] CR-X two-door was launched ahead of the other models on June 23, and is admirably playing its part as image leader in the ‘renaissance’ concept.”

The idea for the CRX was born from something not too far short of desperation at Honda. Car Styling interviewed Honda R&D Director Hidekuni Hagiwara in that 1983 issue, at the dawn of the third-gen Civic’s release. Hagiwara was responsible for smaller-car design and development at Honda R&D, and was concerned about the third generation’s prospects for the future. He “felt an image crisis when the MkII Civic was threatened by newer competitors,” the article notes. “The latest Civic series including the CRX is Honda’s all-out attack on all fronts.”

The CRX’s direction came from Honda R&D Managing Director Hiroshi Kizawa who had a staggering track record prior to 1983. He was responsible for the first-generation Accord, and its sporty offshoot, the Prelude. He also worked on the design of the first-generation Civic, a car so important to Honda that he believed “that if the project failed Honda would have to give up its plan of becoming a full-fledged carmaker.” Kizawa was described as “an enthusiast and at the same time a practical engineer.”

Kizawa’s brief for the CRX distilled those two concepts into two words: “Economy Fast,” a brilliant twist on MG’s “Safety Fast” slogan. It set the tone for the entire project.

1984

The Japanese magazine Car Styling referred to the CRX’s appearance in 1983 as a “dehydrated Camaro look” with “some boy-racer dramatics,” adding, “It may not be a beautiful car, but it certainly is good-looking to most, and at least cute to the indifferent.” Unique to the CRX was the use of HP-Alloy plastics for 40 percent of the exterior panels. These panels were produced in-house at Honda using a high-cycle injection molding process at Honda’s Suzuka Plant. R&D Director Hagiwara’s initial interest in these panels was their potential recyclability. “He saw that if plastic outer panels were to be used extensively and win approval from consumers and the society, he must find ways for their disposal after use.”

Inside, the 1984 CRX and CRX 1.5 had a pyramid-shaped instrument panel, which Car Styling described as being a natural shape that fit between the rim and spokes of the wheel, and essentially mirrored designs from both BMW and Mercedes-Benz. Reclining sport bucket seats were standard on both cars. The only interior advantage of the CRX 1.5 was a tinted strip on the windshield, a standard quartz clock, and dual exterior-mirror remote controls. The three-spoke sport steering wheel was only available on these two cars and the Civic S.

The base CRX was equipped with a 1.3-liter four-cylinder aimed squarely at recent college graduates who wanted a fun, sporty car but didn’t want to spend money on fuel. This engine offered a segment-busting 51 mpg when paired with a five-speed manual transmission, which was the only gearbox available with the base model. (It’s a step up from the four-gear manual standard on the Civic hatch.) To monitor your engine rpm and maximize fuel economy, the CRX was equipped with both a tachometer and a shift light.

The only other rung on the trim ladder was the CRX 1.5, and as the name suggests, you got another 200 cc to play with. The 1.3-liter carbureted four in the base car delivered a sleepy 60 hp and 73 lb-ft of torque. The 1.5-liter provided 76 hp and 84 lb-ft. The 1.5 was also available with a three-speed automatic transmission. Neither car was going to blow your hat off, but at a featherweight 1713 or 1803 pounds, you could drive either car flat-out and have a blast.

The chassis was Chief Engineer Tateomi Miyoshi’s wheelhouse. He designed the original Accord’s suspension and came up with a simple, effective torsion beam/MacPherson strut design up front, along with a stabilizer bar for the Civic. At the rear, a simple beam axle was supported by trailing links for the CRX, and the CRX 1.5 provided what Christopher Hoffman (a longtime 1987 CRX Si owner and legitimate model expert—more on him later) described as “a clever rear stabilizer bar integrated within the rear beam axle.”

A manual steering rack was standard on both cars, and both featured power-assisted disc/drum brakes, while the CRX 1.5 had ventilated rotors. Both cars sported 13-inch steel wheels, though the CRX 1.5s were slightly wider, with 165/70R13s for the CRX and 175/70SR13 Michelin radials for the CRX 1.5.

Color choices totaled three for 1984 including Victoria Red with Red and Black interior, Greek White with Blue interior, and Baltic Blue with Blue interior. U.S. sales for both 1984 CRX models totaled 48,445 units.

1985

For 1985, Honda renamed the two trim levels. The fuel economy-leading base model was renamed CRX HF, and the performance version was the CRX. Both cars now had a 1.5-liter four in separate states of tune.

Little else changed for this model year until April of 1985, when Honda introduced the CRX Si. The name combined the “S” from the sporty Civic S coupe, and the “i” indicated it was the first CRX with fuel injection. Sequential port fuel injection, to be specific, which increased power significantly to 91 hp and 93 lb-ft of torque at 4500 rpm, turning the CRX Si into what Car and Driver referred to as “even more of a blast on winding roads than it was before.”

The Si’s engine internals differed from the 1.5 in the CRX. The famous Honda CVCC pre-combustion chambers were deleted in favor of larger intake valves. (The Si had modern three-way catalysts with feedback fuel and air controls that made the CVCC design redundant.) The Si’s intake was also different, and the final drive ratio was 4 percent shorter for a healthier bite on takeoff. The Si received some significant kit inside, too. The inventive sunroof lifted up and over the cabin, and provided a signature look for the top trim CRX. The Si also sported a standard a rear window wiper and washer.

Outside, the wheels went from steel to aluminum alloy with four rectangular holes as a standard feature. Colors for 1985 were unchanged, and in 1985, Honda sold 57,486 CRXs in all trims but it was the Si that made Americans sit up and take notice of how fun a pint-sized Honda could be.

The Si stickered for $7999, more than a thousand bucks above a CRX with the standard 1.5, but there were very few competitive cars available elsewhere in that space. Those that existed were all way more expensive, offered a less enjoyable driving experience with no room for a young person’s normal commuter life. The Toyota MR2 was $11,194. The base Fiero was the same price, but it had General Motor’s low-tech, “Tech IV” Iron Duke four-cylinder with throttle-body injection. There simply was no peer for the CRX Si.

1986

After the Si’s big debut in 1985, the changes for the 1986 model year were more cosmetic. The recessed sealed-beam headlamps made way for a flush aerodynamic units that helped cheat the wind, and the taillights were now smoked. Lower cladding on the Si was painted body color, and received a new rear spoiler and bumper covers, a set of four-hole, alloy 14-inch wheels with Michelins. Interior upgrades included a new console with storage for seven of your favorite Def Leppard cassette tapes.

Both the heater blower and the optional automatic transmission received fourth gears in 1986. The auto transmission was only available on the DX (base) trim.

Colors were unchanged for the HF and DX trims, but the Si was only offered in Baltic Blue, Victoria Red, and a unique Blackburn Black with a Black interior. For 1986, Honda sold 66,629 CRX models, a high-water mark for the model that the manufacturer would never surpass.

1987

In the final year of first-generation CRX production, Honda held the line with the updates from 1986, essentially carrying over the same car from the prior year. The only significant update was to the color palette. Blackburn Black Metallic would be the only carryover. Honda updated the rest of the colors with Astral Blue Metallic, Sonic Blue Metallic, Rio Red, and Polar White.

For 1987, Honda sold 48,142 CRX models in all trims.

1988

In every conceivable way, the second-generation Honda CRX is a step forward from the first-generation car. Under the skin, numerous improvements further cemented the CRX’s fun-to-drive reputation, scoring it a slot on several publications’ 100 Most Important lists over the last decade.

The suspension was radically new, and gone were the torsion beams up front and beam rear axle. Replacing them was a fully independent double wishbone suspension at all four corners, which not only improved the ride quality but dialed up the handling by a measurable degree. Steering was still a manual rack-and-pinion setup, but the Si got a variable ratio.

All three trim levels (base, HF and Si) had different engines. The base car featured a 16-valve 1493-cc D15B2 engine and dual-point fuel injection (DPFI). Still the fuel-mileage leader, the HF had an eight-valve version of the same 1493-cc D15B6, with multi-point fuel injection (MPFI). The Si received a new 16-valve 1590-cc D16A6 mill and MPFI. The Civic was heavier by a couple hundred pounds, but made up for it with the Si’s 105 hp and 98 lb-ft of torque. Car and Driver loved the 1985 CRX Si’s 9.1-second dash to 60, but in 1988, that time dropped by more than half a second.

At first glance, the body appears to be a fairly simple evolution of the original concept, but the CRX is still among some of the slipperiest designs ever to reach production. The two-seater achieved a 0.29 drag coefficient (Cd), putting it in the same league as cars like the 1966 Lotus Europa, the Lexus CT200h, the Nissan Leaf, and the C6 Corvette.

Inside, all CRXs received the same upgrades that the Civic received in its fourth generation. The interior was more refined and less angular, with improved seating. The two lower trims had adjustable headrests, while the Si had high-back bucket seats. Only the HF had a fixed steering column, and both the CRX and the CRX Si received a cargo cover over a 23.2-cu-ft cargo area.

Interestingly, no CRX came from the factory with a radio, speakers, or antenna, but they all came wired for the radio and four speakers. The rear speakers, however, needed an accessory set of interior pieces that capped the rear strut towers with an integrated speaker grille. The Honda catalog offered four different audio head units, along with an equalizer, and they were all dealer-installed.

For 1988, the HF was available in just two colors: Superior Blue Metallic and Polar White. The CRX could be ordered in Superior Blue Metallic, Blade Silver Metallic, Polar White, and Rio Red. The top trim Si had two unique colors: Barbados Yellow and Flint Black Metallic, along with the CRX’s Blade Silver and Rio Red.

All of the revisions added up to a Motor Trend Import Car of the Year award in 1988, while sales climbed with the revision to a full 51,784 units in the USA.

1989

After a major model change in 1988, the revisions for 1989 were fairly limited. Federal mandates for passive safety restraints meant that the top anchor for the shoulder belts were now mounted to the door. For the Si, a new cam profile allowed horsepower to increase marginally from 105 hp to 108 hp.

Colors remained the same this year, and sales dwindled to 39,048 units in the U.S., the worst showing for the CRX at that time.

1990

A number of incremental changes occurred in 1990, primarily affecting the interior. Since the beginning, the CRX instrument binnacle was shaped like a frustum, or a flat-topped pyramid. For 1990, all things automotive began a relentless march toward the “melted bean” school of automotive design, and the CRX instrument cluster couldn’t escape that trend. The edges were rounded into a more blob-like shape, and the hazard-light switch moved to the position that was formerly devoted to the rear window defogger.

Outside, there were tweaks to the bumper covers, headlamps, and tail lamps. The Si received all-new 14-inch alloy wheels, and behind them sat the only mechanical change: a full set of disc brakes.

In the paint booth, Blade Silver bowed out entirely, with a deeper Torino Red taking its place. Similarly, Superior Blue exited and Celestial Blue arrived, though only available on the base car. All other colors were the same as 1989. Honda sold 40,650 CRX models in the U.S. in 1990.

1991

The final year of availability of the Honda CRX was an essential carryover from 1990, though there were a number of changes to the paint schemes.

If you can tell the difference, Polar White was dropped in 1991 in favor of Frost White. The grin-inducing Barbados Yellow disappeared, and in its place was the similarly tropical Tahitian Green, available only on the Si.

For the final year of sales in the U.S., Honda sold 26,975 CRX models, the lowest number in the car’s history.

Before you buy

For the nitty-gritty of CRX ownership, we reached out to Christopher Hoffman, the aforementioned Si owner and model expert. Petrolicious filmed his CRX Si and gave him the title “Original Fanboy” because of his loyalty to the brand. The ’87 CRX Si that was his first new car (and the first CRX Hagerty ever insured) is now one of four ’80s Hondas in his garage. So when Christopher talks, we listen. 

Christopher says all of the CRX’s engines are durable, but suffer a few weak spots. “Timing belt/tensioner/water pump changes are due every 60,000 miles, but if you find a car with no service history, just do this right away as preventive maintenance,” he advises. For most engine parts you’re limited to the aftermarket, since there is scarce parts support from Honda. Hoffman says cylinder-head bolts, which were designed as single-use items, are hard to find.

“The biggest challenge with the carbureted models is the complicated vacuum-line setup and finding a mechanic with the patience and knowledge to deal with it all—but once sorted, drivability is good by period standards,” he says. Lots of these cars had Weber replacement carburetors, and they’re available still, but they should be properly set up with an automatic choke. Many of these cars were “de-vacced” to eliminate lots of unsightly vacuum lines, but Hoffman says that afterwards often leads to complaints about drivability issues, along with the questionable impact on air quality.

The PGM-FI fuel injection is one of few systems on the market with no Bosch elements. Hoffman says it’s fairly reliable, though the injectors are getting harder to find. Cooling fan switches can fail but are easy to diagnose and readily available. If you find a car with the fan switch bypassed to run constantly, Hoffman suggests looking closely at compression and coolant clarity for evidence of a prior overheat, as well as any other shady mechanical work.

“For some reason, people tend to overlook the cheapest and easiest component that can cause a car to run hot: the radiator cap,” he explains. “Instead, they’ll do things to bypass the fan circuit or remove the thermostat.” If originality is a concern, Hoffman explains why good examples are hard to find, because “too many people seem to feel that no ’80s Honda should keep its original engine, and amateur swaps are common.”

Underneath, replacement struts and shocks are getting harder to find in what Hoffman refers to as the “stock-plus” realm of upgrading. “Many cars have been swapped to coil-overs, and the reversibility of such a mod is questionable,” he says. He adds that upper strut bearings/bushings are very hard to come by, and torsion bars are seemingly not well-understood even though they’re wonderfully simple and easily adjustable.

Brake hardware is mostly available, though the discs are becoming difficult to source. Hoffman indicates that a lot of drum-equipped early CRXs have been converted to Acura Integra rear discs and hubs. The stock setup integrates the hub and rear bearing, and parts can be challenging to locate. Tires are also a challenge—“all the stock tires sizes, even the 185/60R14s of the 1986 and 1987 Si.”

Rust issues are largely dependent on the car’s geographic location and lie in typical areas (wheel arches, sunroof drains) on the car. Issues with those innovative plastic front fenders, mask between the headlights and hood, and side cladding are atypical, though: “I don’t think Honda engineers ever imagined there would be 30-year-old CRXs running around,” says Hoffman. “The panels become brittle and can crack just from the stress of driving or a mechanic leaning on a fender.” He notes that fenders and the header panel are reproduced in carbon fiber by Heeltoe Automotive under the Medieval Pro brand name.

Like all cars with sunroofs, CRXs can leak thanks to a clogged drain tube. The hatchback gaskets also compress, or the hatch can be misaligned causing water entry (and eventual rust). Hoffman says the weakest interior link is probably the 1984 and 1985 door panels, which can wrinkle the way a Mercedes W123 door does. The later models used molded panels that endure quite well. He adds that the dashes tend to hold up quite well.

That said, look for the electrical ravages of poorly installed sound systems over the years. Hoffman says there aren’t really any inherently bad years or models to avoid, but he suggests a 1984 1300 model isn’t going to perform or bring money like an Si, and an automatic DX had better be an ultra-low-mile museum piece. In general, Hoffman suggests finding a car with the fewest mods possible. “Honda engineers probably did know more than you. And they documented it,” he says. He also encourages potential owners to buy a factory service manual. “There’s also an Electrical Troubleshooting manual supplement that’s worth seeking out,” he advises. “Some of the online groups have digitized some of the manuals so they can be downloaded.”

With this in mind, a comprehensive pre-purchase inspection and test drive will ensure you know exactly what the CRX before you shall need, either in the short or long term.

Valuation

CRX values experienced an upward trend over the last few years, but haven’t seen wild spikes, making them a solid value in terms of Japanese collector cars. An apparently clean 1987 Si sold on Bring a Trailer for $22,000 in October of 2021 with just 58,000 miles. In general, a second-generation Si only sells for $2000 more in similar condition, so for the moment, buy the generation you’re most interested in, without much concern for value. In the future, please check here for more timely assessments of Honda CRX values.

According to the Hagerty Valuation Team, the value of a #2-condition, first-generation CRX is around the $17,000 mark. Second generation cars in the same condition hit $18,000 in the earliest years, and climb up to $19,500 for the final year of production. The Valuation Team notes that the Si was only added to the Hagerty Price Guide in 2019, and the price gap between cars described as #1 or #2 and those described as #3 and #4 is wider than most vehicles. The team notes that the high-water mark for Si prices occurred in 2019, but those two sales haven’t been exceeded since. Median #2 values have increased 43 percent over the past three years.

While the number of Hagerty insurance quotes requested from CRX owners has shot up 196 percent in the past three years, the quoted value overall has dropped by about two percent. Millennials quote 42 percent of CRXs (hardly shocking) while making up 19 percent of the market overall. Right behind them, Gen X quotes 35 percent of CRXs, while making up 32 percent of the market overall. Gen Z, which only makes up six percent of the collector car market, quotes 12 percent of CRXs. Boomers quote 11 percent of the CRXs and dominate with 37 percent of the classic car market. Preboomers? Not sure if they know the CRX exists, since they quote just one percent of CRXs despite comprising six percent of the total market.

Given the relative rarity of clean, unmodified CRX Sis, and their current price level, these cars represent a solid value in 2021 and 2022. Fewer cars exist every year, and more collectors are starting to pay attention to the cleanest examples. We even listed the second-gen Si on our 2020 Bull Market list. If you can get in now, the price of these cars is not going to go down much (if at all!) over the coming years. Get in while you can, and enjoy the ride.

The post Your handy 1984–91 Honda CRX buyer’s guide appeared first on Hagerty Media.

“Versatile! Drag it! Race it! Swing with it!” read a print advertisement for the 1964 Sunbeam Tiger. That single ad laid out everything attractive about the Tiger, showcasing Stan Peterson’s Autocourse Tiger with slicks and Minilite wheels, Doane Spencer’s #55 road racing Tiger, and a scantily clad model atop the decklid of a Sunbeam Tiger in street trim, with full wheel covers.

The car on which the Tiger is based wasn’t “new” by any stretch of the imagination. The Rootes Group was building the unibody Sunbeam Alpine since Loewy Studios—and specifically Barney Roos—designed the Series I in 1959 on a Hillman Husky chassis. It sported a wishbone front suspension, a solid rear axle, and Girling front disc and rear drum brakes. The Tiger was a beautifully styled car that almost had the appearance of a two-thirds scale 1957 Ford Thunderbird, with its open grille, wide-set, hooded headlamps, and subtle tail fins.

But by the time of Series III production in 1963, the best its 1592-cc inline four-cylinder could muster was 92 hp, good for a tick under 100 mph, but by 1962 you could buy an MGB with similar performance for a lot cheaper. It became evident to executives at Rootes—most specifically, Brian Rootes, son of founder Sir William Rootes—that the Alpine needed more power. The Rootes Group, it must be said, wasn’t exactly an engineering powerhouse despite developing a commercial diesel engine on its own utilizing an innovative all-aluminum overhead cam engine in the Hillman Imp. That said, Rootes wasn’t in the position of developing a high-performance engine for use in a low-production sports car.

According to William Carroll in his book, Tiger, An Exceptional Motorcar, the Rootes Group looked for engine suppliers around the world. The company considered Ferrari to re-engineer its four-cylinder, banking on the good public relations that “powered by Ferrari” would bring, but the negotiations ultimately failed.

In October 1962, along with his teammate Stirling Moss, Formula 1 champ Jack Brabham piloted an Alpine to second place in the production class of the Los Angeles Times Grand Prix at Riverside. According to Carroll’s book, Brabham bent the ear of Rootes’ Competition Manager Norman Garrad, suggesting that a Ford V-8 would be just the ticket to propel the Alpine to international success.

By 1962, Carroll Shelby already convinced AC Cars to build several AC Aces that could accept a V-8, and shoehorned Ford’s 260-cu-in V-8 in place, thereby cementing that car’s legacy in automotive history. In Sunbeam Alpine and Tiger: The Complete Story, Graham Robson noted that Garrad’s son Ian was the West Coast Sales manager for Rootes and President of International Automobiles Incorporated, the official importer of all Rootes vehicles. Ian Garrad lived close to Shelby American. He met with Shelby, who proposed that with $10,000, the Shelby American could fit a 260-cu-in V-8 in place in about eight weeks. “Well all right, at that price when can we start?” Brian Rootes asked. “But for God’s sake keep it quiet from Dad [Lord Rootes] until you hear from me. I’ll work the $10,000 (£3571) out some way, possibly from the advertising account.”

At the same time, another key player in the Shelby American orbit was involved. Ian Garrad simultaneously contracted with Ken Miles to build a prototype/feasibility study as quickly as possible. According to Robson, Miles got the princely sum of $800, a Series II Alpine, a 260 V-8 and a two-speed automatic transmission, with the instruction to put it all together as quickly as possible. In about a week, his cobbled-together car proved the concept that a V-8 powered Alpine was possible.

At the beginning of April 1963, Shelby began work on what would eventually be a production Alpine. By the end of the month, he had a 260-powered Alpine ready for testing. John Panks, director of Rootes Motors Inc. of North America wrote effusively to Brian Rootes about the prototype, suggesting that it was every bit as exciting as anything Jaguar had put together. “It is quite apparent that we have a most successful experiment that can now be developed into a production car,” he wrote to the bosses whose names were on the building at Rootes.

Shelby’s prototype was initially called Thunderbolt, and unlike Ken Miles’ hustled together car, it sported a four-speed manual transmission, also grafted from a Ford. At just 3.5 inches longer than the Alpine’s four-cylinder, length wasn’t an issue, especially with the Ford’s front-mounted distributor. The issue was width, and the Ford V-8 took all space that was available.

Despite all the work Miles and Shelby put in under the direction of Brian Rootes, Norman and Ian Garrad, and the encouragement about the car’s potential from John Panks, the last word on development was still in Lord Rootes’ wheelhouse. The word at the time: He was not happy about it. Nevertheless, he reluctantly agreed to have a Shelby prototype shipped to England, which he drove himself.

Whatever reservations he had about the project appear to have dissolved on that evaluation drive, because Lord Rootes quickly placed an order for 3000 260-cu-in V-8s, according to John Gunnell’s Standard Catalog of British Cars. William Carroll claims that it was the largest order of engines Ford had ever received outside of a government contract. Lord Rootes not only wanted the car in production, he wanted it ready for the 1964 New York Auto Show in eight months time.

Since American consumers were the target audience for the Tiger, Shelby assumed he’d get the contract for building the cars, just the way he had with AC. Instead, he got an undisclosed percentage of every car built without performing any further work, which must’ve been the greatest outcome Carroll Shelby could have wanted. Rootes had no capacity to build a low-production car, so it farmed out the work to Jensen, which turned out 14 Tiger prototypes using the Alpine Series IV shell by the end of 1963.

Mk I (1964 to August 1965)

The Sunbeam Tiger went into production in June of 1964 with a few differences from the Alpine Series IV upon which it was based. The VIN starts at B947XXXX, and the bodies came from Pressed Steel in Oxfordshire with the engines and transmissions sourced from Ford. According to R.M. Clarke in Sunbeam Tiger Limited Edition Extra, 1964–1967, the first order of business was to bash the firewall of the newly primed and painted bodies with a sledgehammer to allow the engine to slide into place. The Tiger even had an access hole cut in the driver’s side footwell to allow the #8 spark plug to be changed.

There were other (less violent) modifications as well: The steering went from recirculating ball to a modern rack-and-pinion setup. While Alpine’s battery location was inside the cabin behind an access panel, the Tiger’s battery moved to the trunk. This allowed for an SU electric fuel pump in that location, which subsequently provided room for the dual exhaust. Inside, all Tigers had with a wood dash and wood steering wheel, which justified the Tiger’s elevated price tag. In the trunk, the spare tire on an Alpine stood up, but on the Tiger, it laid flat on the floor. Outside, the only visual cues were the “Tiger” script on the front fenders, the V-8 callout just below it, and dual exhaust outlets. The Mk 1 featured a grille opening with a horizontal bar and a Sunbeam emblem in the middle.

All Mk I Tigers have a 164 hp, 260-cu-in Ford V-8, with modifications to jam it into place under the hood, including a remote oil filter. All of these cars were built with a two-barrel carburetor, but that’s really only part of the story. Most owners placed orders from the “LAT catalog”—for Los Angeles Tigers, a subsidiary of Ian Garrand’s International Automobiles Incorporated—with everything from hotter cams, Edelbrock intake, and a Holley four-barrel carburetor. Those parts would be installed at the port, either in Long Beach, California or Long Island, New York.

The earliest Tigers used a Ford T-10 sideloader four-speed transmission. That quickly gave way to a close ratio T-170 toploader, and all Tigers used a solid rear axle with a Dana 44 differential from the factory.

Online resource Tigers United suggests that Sunbeam built 3763 Mk1 Tigers between April of 1964 and August of 1965. Robson’s book suggests that all but 56 of the cars came to the United States, with an MSRP of $2898.

Mk IA (August 1965 to February 1966)

Mk IA cars have VINs beginning with B382XXXXXX. There’s really no “official” Mk IA Tiger, as the designation unofficially described cars built using the Sunbeam Alpine Series V as a foundation. MK IA Tigers had a vinyl top boot rather than a metal cover, according to Sunbeam Specialties Inc., which also provides an outstanding guide to decoding Tiger chassis numbers. 

The most noticeable difference is in the doors: Mk I cars had rounded corners on the door bottoms, where Mk IA’s that arrived in 1966 had a much sharper lower trailing edge corner. That same sharpening of corners is also evident in the hood and the trunk lid. According to Tigers Unlimited, Sunbeam built 2706 Mk IA Tigers between August of 1965 and early February of 1966.

Mk II (December 1966 to June 1967)

The major difference between the Mk IA and Mk II cars was the engine, which upgraded the 260-cu-in V-8 to Ford’s 289-cu-in V-8. The 3000 260s that Rootes purchased allowed the company to continue producing a 260-powered Tiger through early 1966. The Mk II wouldn’t reach production until December of 1966, and only lasted seven months into June of 1967. All units were destined for the United States. The bigger V-8 helped the Mk II’s performance, dropping its 0-to-60 time to 7.5 seconds, and increased top speed to 122 mph.

What eventually killed the Tiger wasn’t sales or performance, it was corporate ownership. By mid-1964, after a devastating strike and the expense of launching the Hillman Imp, Rootes Group was in deep financial trouble. Chrysler came calling, hoping to build a presence in Europe, eventually purchasing a £12 million stake in Rootes Group.

That stake didn’t equal controlling interest in the company, but it put a lot of pressure on the management team, especially when Sunbeam’s halo car featured power from its biggest competitor. Subtle changes in the Mk II’s advertisement and the car itself became evident. Print ads no longer touted “Powered by Ford”, instead the language shifted to “an American V-8 powertrain.” The callouts on the fenders no longer said “260: Powered by Ford,” and never indicated that the engine was Ford’s familiar 289. They instead indicated the more generic “V8”. Below that badge, behind the wheel opening, later Mk IIs had the Chrysler Pentastar emblem.

Other minor changes included the grille and the “Sunbeam” and “Tiger” emblems. In the earlier cars, “SUNBEAM” was spelled out in block capital letters across the hood and decklid. On the Mk II cars, “Sunbeam” became a smaller script, affixed to the left side of the hood, with a “Tiger” script mounted to the right side of the rear decklid, topped with the SUNBEAM brand in a parallelogram emblem just above it.

Tiger Mk IIs have VINs beginning with B382100XXX. In all, Sunbeam Specialties notes that just 536 Mk IIs were produced.

Before You Buy

It’s important to know whether you’re buying a legitimate Tiger, or an Alpine with a V-8 jammed in the engine bay. The Sunbeam Tiger Owner’s Association will authenticate a Tiger unibody. The certificate won’t mention much more than the fact that the unibody itself was originally a Tiger, but it’s some means of understanding the car’s authenticity.

There’s a lot to be gleaned from the chassis number, even if the car hasn’t been authenticated. The chassis number has two groups of suffixes. The first group includes “GT,” indicating a hard top and tonneau with no soft top and an upgraded interior, and “OD” for an overdrive transmission. The second suffix group is comprised of five letters that indicate the car’s intended destination (“H” for “home market,” “R” for “right hand drive export” or “L” for “left hand drive export,”) a second “R” signifies the roadster body style with a soft top, and any special order information (“O” for standard, “X” for non-standard, “P” for “Police specification”). Finally, all Tigers will have chassis numbers that end in the letters “FE” for “Ford Engine.”

It’s difficult to find a Tiger that hasn’t been modified from factory specification in at least some degree. Almost all units had their two-barrel carb and intake removed in favor of the Edelbrock/Holley induction kit offered by the LAT catalog, for example. Traction bars—both offered by the LAT catalog and the aftermarket—are nearly universal, in order to prevent the axle hop that was endemic to a 260-cu.in. V-8 powering a leaf-sprung rear axle.

The LAT catalog offered traction bars from Traction Masters, which are still sold today. Traction Masters suggests that the Sunbeam Tiger was “factory equipped” with these bars, but that depends on one’s definition of the word “factory.” It’s true that most Sunbeam Tigers are equipped with those bars when they hit the ports in L.A. and New York, but not all of them. A beautiful 1967 came up on BaT in February of 2021 wasn’t equipped with traction bars, for example.

This is a British unibody vehicle, so all the concerns about rust apply: Rockers, floors, and trunk floors are the structure of the car, and they will rust to pieces. Look for rust in the common areas like lower fenders, lower doors and floor supports. Outfits like Classic Sunbeam offer replacements and repair panels, but get the car on a lift to see what’s precisely going on underneath: You can quickly get into reconstruction that would overshoot the cost of a better car.

On the plus side, the 260 and 289-cu.in. V-8s are backyard-mechanic simple, with parts available everywhere. There are some differences between a Tiger V-8 and a Mustang. Tigers had remote oil filters and electric fuel pumps, but all the internals are identical to Ford vehicles. Transmissions are similarly common. The early toploaders and later sideloaders are plentiful and easily rebuilt anywhere in the United States. The Saisbury-sourced Dana 44 differential is also about as stout as you’re likely to find in a British sports car.

Loads of Tigers have improved suspensions, including Koni adjustable shocks, better springs, thicker roll bars and panhard rods in the rear. Wheels are also so universally swapped that it’s a bit of a shock to see a car with its original steel wheels and full wheel covers. Having stock wheels versus Minilites doesn’t seem to harm the value a bit.

All Tigers were negative ground, while the Series IV Alpines were often still positive ground. The Tigers featured alternators and were generally better off electrically. That said, no 55-year-old wiring system is going to last forever. Wiring harnesses are available for cars with alternators. If your Sunbeam has a generator, you’ll need to do an alternator conversion at the same time. 

Sunbeam Tiger Values

Sunbeam Tigers aren’t cheap by any means, but if you’re into the Ford/British Car/Carroll Shelby/Ken Miles connection, they’re a lot cheaper than a Cobra. According to the Hagerty Valuation Team, Tiger values shot up considerably around 2013, more or less coinciding with the passing of Carroll Shelby. Values then leveled off in 2016, and trended downward afterward. Median #2 values went up 161 percent between May of 2012 and May of 2016, but since then, the values have dropped 26 percent.

The most expensive Tiger sale on BaT occurred in October of 2020, which had significant racing history, and had participated in vintage racing events at the Goodwood Revival and Sonoma Historic Motorsports Festival. It sold for $160,000. Road-going Tigers generally sell for a lot less. Project cars sell in the $7000 to $15,000 range. Solid #3 cars are anywhere from $40,000 to $50,000. The sweet spot for cars between #2- and #3-condition seems to be between $60,000 and $70,000 over the last few years. The Hagerty Valuation Team pegs the value of a #2 car at $74,000 for a Mk I, $83,200 for a Mk IA, and a big jump to $137,000 for the rare Mk II. Add about $5000 for a hardtop in any generation.

The median quoted value is $61,800, which is only up one percent over the past five years. The number of quotes is down five percent over the past 5 years. Baby boomers who fantasized over the opening credits of TV’s Get Smart quote 69 percent of Tigers, while making up 37 percent of the market overall. Gen-Xers quote 16 percent of Tigers and make up 32 percent of the market overall. Pre-boomers quote 12 percent of Tigers and make up 6 percent of the market overall. Millennials quote 3 percent of Tigers, making up 19 percent of the market overall.

Tigers purchased prior to 2012 were a smoking deal. That period ended once the values spiked, but it appears there’s a huge generation gap in interest, which should keep the prices flat for a while, if not put some downward pressure as more shake loose from older collectors. Regardless, the Tiger is a significant part of Anglo-American performance history, one that doesn’t command the insane prices of other cars that experienced exactly the same mid-1960s trajectory. If you want one, you deserve it to yourself to get one.

The post Your handy 1964–67 Sunbeam Tiger buyer’s guide appeared first on Hagerty Media.

You probably remember the first time you saw an Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider. Though Alfa Romeo only made about 14,300 examples of this quintessentially Italian sports roadster, they seem to be everywhere—on the screen, if not the streets. Edward Fox’s titular character in 1973’s Day of the Jackal drove one, but the Internet Movie Car Database lists some 235 examples of a Giulietta Spider cast at the heart of the action.

In a way, Alfa followed an American recipe with the Giulietta. The droptop was just one of a range of body styles built around a single platform, similar to the way that Ford offered the Falcon in a wide variety of configurations—from coupe to convertible to station wagon. At a European Alfa Romeo retailer, a Giulietta buyer had their choice between saloon, 2+2 coupe, Spider, Sprint, Sprint Speciale, and—if they were one of the 91 people who ordered one from Carrozzeria Colli—estate.

Bertone and Pinin Farina were both in the running for the contract to develop the cars, and each provided a number of prototypes. Max Hoffman favored the Pinin Farina, which would eventually be on display at the 1955 Paris Motor Show, but Alfa’s New York importer actually purchased the Bertone prototype for himself. The Pinin Farina–designed car was much more formal, with lines hewing closer to those of the sedans and coupes. It would be Pinin Farina’s first contribution to the successful Giulietta lineup.

The Giulietta Spider’s roots run deep in America. The Giulietta Berlina and the Bertone-penned Sprint arrived first in 1954 and sold sensationally well in Europe. But European sedans weren’t a hot seller in the United States and wouldn’t be until the late 1970s. In one well-worn story, New York-based European and British car importer Max Hoffman was in Milan to purchase a number of Bertone-constructed Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint convertibles when he told Alfa Romeo executives that he’d place an immediate order for 600 Giulietta, along the option for another 2000 cars, with the stipulation that Alfa Romeo had to offer a two-seat roadster.

1956–58

Production commenced for the 1956 model year in the United States. These early cars were built on the short-wheelbase Tipo 750 chassis. Like the rest of the Giulietta line, the Spider featured unibody construction, providing a stiff, solid platform for handling performance. For a car that would prove to be the essential Italian sports car, the Giulietta Spider is remarkably conservative. It’s not that far away from the Lancia B24 Aurelia Spider that Pinin Farina developed in 1954.

Under the hood was the magic 1.3-liter inline four-cylinder with dual overhead cams spun by a double-row chain, an engine that would set the course for Alfa Romeo until the early 1990s. All Giulietta Spiders—Veloce models notwithstanding—featured a single Solex carburetor and 79 hp. The sole gearbox was a four-speed manual, with a two-piece driveshaft.

Up front, the Giulietta Spider featured double-wishbone independent suspension with variable-rate coil springs and tube shocks. At the rear, the Spider used a solid axle, mounted with an upper triangular thrust rod and lower radius rods, variable-rate coil springs, and tube shocks. The hydraulic brakes were “the result of long experience in motor races,” per the brochure, with drums all the way around and herringbone cooling fins on the front. Alfa literature noted that the brakes “give to the Giulietta spider a safety and a prompt reaction, such as to represent one of the main features of the car.”

Inside, the Giulietta Spider was beautifully styled, with leather upholstery and wool carpets. The doors featured upholstered door panels, chrome door pulls, door handles, and window cranks. Much was made of the roll-up windows in the brochure, which promised a tight seal with the windshield frame to protect customers from the elements. The dash was delightfully simple, with a thin pad on top; switches for headlamp signaling, choke, throttle and fan; a radio blanking plate with a Pinin Farina emblem; and a mirror mounted to the dash top.

Three large-faced round Veglia gauges provided the instrumentation. Front and center was a tachometer, with a small oil pressure gauge underneath. On the right, the speedometer, odometer, and trip meter shared space with two warning lights. The left gauge included oil temp, water temp, and fuel gauges along with a warning light for fuel level, the turn signals, and the headlamps.

In the sun, it’s all open-top motoring, but in the cooler, wetter weather, the folding soft top pivoted into place and snapped tight with two levers. The brochure also showed a removable hardtop, but these appear to be exceedingly rare. Through 1958, the Giulietta Spider essentially remained unchanged.

It’s always a challenge to separate calendar year from model year production. In the case of the Giulietta, we have one source—Luigi Fusi, the curator of the Alfa Romeo Registry. His book notes that Giulietta Spider production topped out at 1 car for 1955, and 21 for the 1956 model year. In 1957, Alfa Romeo produced 2192 Giulietta Spiders. For 1958, it produced 2446.

1959–65

The 1959 calendar year is pivotal for understanding the Giulietta Spider. The biggest change was the shift from the Tipo 750 chassis to the Tipo 101. Cars produced in the 1959 calendar year with serial numbers between 1495.05620 and 1495.07213 are all short-wheelbase Tipo 750 cars, the same chassis style produced between 1956 and 1958.

Cars with serial numbers between 1495.08001 and 1495.08537 ride on the updated Tipo 101 chassis. The new car debuted at the Frankfurt Motor Show in 1959. Trying to identify the differences? Good luck. Exterior photos of early cars from 1957 and late cars from 1959 look absolutely identical. 750-Series examples have an open glovebox, while the 101-Series cars cover the same compartment with a lid. The wheelbase stretched from 86.6 to 88.6 inches, and the doors on the later cars were reshaped on the trailing edge to provide about two inches more opening room.

Engines also changed slightly between the 750- and the 101-Series. Serial numbers tell you what you’re looking at, but the big tipoff between a 750 and a 101 engine is the location of the fuel pump. The 750-Series fuel pump was located on the engine block. The 101-Series cars had a boss cast on the timing cover to which the fuel pump mounted. Naturally, this arrangement isn’t set in stone. Some of the interim cars had the 750-Series fuel pump mounting locations. The gearbox was also redesigned for the 101-Series cars.

The other big news for 1959 was the introduction of the Giulietta Spider Veloce. All Veloces featured dual Weber carburetors, hotter cams, a cold-air intake, and higher-compression pistons. Alfa’s engineers dialed the horsepower up to 91, while output for the “normale”—the unofficial name for non-Veloce Spiders—remained at 79. From 1960 to 1962, nothing much changed for the Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider and Veloce.

In 1959, Alfa Romeo built 1593 750-Series Giulietta Spiders before transitioning to the 101-Series. According to the numbers in Luigi Fusi’s book, this appears to be a short period during which you can identify Veloces by serial number. Alfa Romeo built 536 “normale,” or single Solex–equipped Spiders, and an additional 111 Spider Veloces, which had consecutive numbers.

For 1960, chassis numbers get confusing. Early cars still retained the “1495” prefix on the serial number. Of those cars, Alfa Romeo had its best showing yet, with 3362 units produced. Later cars feature a chassis number with the “101.20” prefix, which makes much more sense. Of those, Alfa Romeo built an additional 1732.

In 1961 Alfa Romeo built 3169 Spiders and Spider Veloces, combined. In the following year, it produced 1182 Giulietta Spiders and Spider Veloces all told. But things got weird in 1962.

That year, Alfa Romeo introduced a new 1600-cc engine. In the meantime, the all-new Alfa Romeo Giulia Berlina and coupe appeared. However, there wouldn’t be an all-new Giulia Spider—only the Giulietta with a brand-new name and a 1600-cc engine. For all intents and purposes, it’s exactly the same car as the one built in early 1962 under the old name. You can identify these cars by their “101.23” chassis numbers. Late in 1962, Alfa Romeo built an additional 3293 units of the 101.23 Giulia Spider.

In 1963, the name changed slightly again to “Giulia 1600 Spider,” and the numbers in Luigi Fusi’s book include both left-hand-drive (designated 101.23) and right-hand-drive (guida a destra, or simply g.d.) cars (101.19). Alfa Romeo built 1095 101.23 left-hand-drive Giulia 1600 Spiders. Unfortunately, there appears to be a typographical error in Fusi’s accounting, with one digit apparently dropped from the last serial number in the left-hand drive column, so there’s no reliable tally of left-hand-drive cars built that year.

In 1964, there are three distinct numbers once again for Giulia 1600 Spider production: “normale” cars with left-hand drive, their right-hand drive counterparts, and Spider Veloces. That year, Alfa produced 1877 “normale” 1600 Spiders in left-hand-drive, 1 in right-hand-drive (now under the same 101.23 chassis number as the right-hand-drive model), and 289 1600 Spider Veloces, with 101.18 chassis numbers.

For the final year of production in 1965, just 286 “normale” Giulia 1600 Spiders were produced, all of which appear to be left-hand-drive, along with 800 Spider Veloces.

Before you buy

In any 1950s and 1960s Italian car with monocoque construction, rust is a fact of life and your mortal enemy. At this point, 55 years after the last one rolled out of the shop, there’s probably no such thing as a “rust free” 750/101 Spider. They either are rusty, or they’ve been rusty and someone’s repaired them. The quality of that repair is the difference between a car that’s worth the money and one that’s best left alone.

If you’ve read this far, you probably know where to look: Floor pans, trunk floors, fender bottoms, those insidious rocker panels and their jack points, the battery trays, and front valences. There are good-quality replacement parts available, specifically from Wolf Steel Restorations, which produces floors, rockers, entire fenders, fender patch panels, noses, and battery trays, among other components.

Inside, these cars are pretty solid. They were fitted with good quality materials and components, so it’s entirely possible that you’ll find a car with a more-or-less original interior. Seat upholstery, carpet, door handles, instrument bezels, and even ashtrays are available at Classic Alfa. Shops like Palo Alto Speedometer can also restore the Veglia gauges.

Engines are straightforward and robust, in either 1300 or 1600 form. One thing to note is that cars around the 1959 time frame can be parts-bin affairs, especially in the engine compartment. Parts for the 101-Series engines are readily available and relatively inexpensive. Parts for the early 750-Series can be far more costly to replace.

The transmissions have weak second-gear synchros as a rule, forcing the driver to count one Mississippi, two Mississippi between gearshifts. There are modern synchro upgrades, and a transmission rebuild shouldn’t be much more expensive than it would be for a vintage Volkswagen. Many of these cars have had five-speed gearbox swaps. It’s not the end of the world, unless you’re really concerned about originality.

The suspension and brakes are about as simple as you’ll ever find. Buy decent tires, get a good alignment, and make sure nothing’s out of spec, and this car will offer everything you’d ever want out of a sports car. The brakes are four-wheel finned aluminum drums and do a great job of hauling the car to a stop.

Electrical issues? Sure, if the wiring is 55 to 65 years old. Lionel Velez at Auto Italia Sportiva offers new harnesses and fuse blocks and comes highly recommended.

Valuation

Our Valuation team at Hagerty notes that Giulietta Spiders, especially #1 (Concours) and #2 (Excellent) condition cars, have increased consistently in value since 2010. These days, a museum-quality #1 Giulietta/Giulia Spider, regardless of year, tops out at $110,000. A Veloce will add $40,000 to $50,000 to that figure, but please check here for the latest values.

The good news is that plenty of cars in the $50,000 to $60,000 range hover in the “driver” class. In June of 2021, Bring a Trailer sold a very nicely restored 1956 “normale” for $66,000. The same month saw a clean-looking 1958 with a fairly crusty underside—along with a spare, rebuilt Veloce engine—go for $55,000.

Over the last five years, Hagerty has quoted 32 percent fewer Giuliettas across all body styles. Quoted values, however, rose by about 7 percent. Boomers represent the lion’s share of those seeking quotes for these cars at 60 percent. For context, this demographic comprises 37 percent of the overall market. Gen Xers lag a bit behind but still account for a full quarter of Giulietta quotes. Pre-boomers, millennials, and Gen Z appear the least fascinated with these cars, together making up the remaining 13 percent of quotes.

No matter what you call it, the Alfa Romeo Giulietta/Giulia 750/101 Spider and/or Spider Veloce is a well-established member of the collector market. These cars are widely recognized as representative of their era, and even as the boomers who own most of them begin to release the cars back into the market, this model is likely to fare well.

The post Your handy 1955–65 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider buyer’s guide appeared first on Hagerty Media.

Let’s first set out some guidelines on what we’re actually covering here: This guide covers the A2 Golf GTI and GTI 16v that were available in the United States between the 1985 and 1992 model years.

Yes, these cars were vastly more popular overseas, and yes, there are many advantages to a European or U.K.-origin GTI. And while, many U.K.- and European-spec cars have come over to North America in fair numbers since the 25-year rule expired on the oldest cars around 2016, the vast majority of cars available here in the United States are going to be the U.S.-spec cars that have been here for almost 40 years.

The A2 Golf debuted in the United States for the 1985 model year, and it was something of a letdown at the beginning. That’s mostly because it was upstaged by the more popular Jetta, which dispensed with the hatchback and went for a more conventional three-box design. Sales of the Golf went in the tank almost immediately, dropping by about eight percent versus the outgoing A1 Rabbit.

Worldwide, though, the A2 was a smash. It retained the tight lines of the original Giugiaro-designed A1, but VW design director Herbert Schäfer rounded every sharp corner. The Mk2 grew in almost every direction: Wheelbase increased by almost three inches; length by 4.3 inches; width by as much as 2.7 inches; height by 0.8 inches. Curb weight also increased by as much as 600 pounds. The dimensional changes pushed the Golf into the EPA’s Compact category, rather than the Subcompact class it occupied before.

1985

Like the outgoing A1 Rabbit, all U.S.-based GTIs were assembled at the Westmoreland, Pennsylvania plant in 1985. Outside, the GTI wasn’t all that distinct from lesser Golf trims. All U.S.-based A2 Golf GTIs got flush rectangular projector headlamps, instead of the sealed beam units in other trims. Black bumpers and fender flares were part of the GTI trim, as well as red accents in the bumper trim. The wheels were 14 x 6-inch alloys wrapped in 185/60HR14 Goodyear Eagle GTs. It was all designed to be subtle, not drastically different from a run-of-the-mill Golf.

Similarly, the interior was European and businesslike, for the most part. The dash was a direct lift from any other Golf. The seats, though? World class, especially from an American standpoint. The A2 Golf GTI featured heavily bolstered, reclining bucket seats with a ton of lateral support, upholstered in red and gray strobe-stripe material. Drivers also got a leather-wrapped wheel with four horn buttons, and a leather-wrapped gearshift knob.

The issue at the outset was that engine power didn’t increase much, even in the “hot hatch” GTI. U.S.-based Golf GTIs introduced in 1985 were equipped with the same 8-valve 1.8-liter inline four as the outgoing A1 Rabbit GTI, albeit with a 10 percent horsepower increase to 100 hp and 105 lb-ft of torque, thanks to bigger intake valves, higher compression pistons and Bosch KE-Jetronic fuel injection. But that power increase was sopped up by the heavier curb weight. The only transmission option in 1985 was a five-speed manual.

“The compression ratio was been increased from 8.5:1 to 10.0:1, which is the highest compression I’ve seen in a long, long time,” wrote Leonard Kucinski in April of 1985, in his review of the Golf GTI for Allentown, Pennsylvania’s broadsheet, The Morning Call. “VW said the use of such a high compression ratio was made possible through a newly developed digital electronic ignition system incorporating a knock sensor control unit.” The electronics allowed the GTI to run on unleaded regular without knock issues. What a time to be alive!

The key to fun in these cars wasn’t neck-snapping power, though, but precise handling. Steering was a manual rack-and-pinion setup, with power assist as an option. With MacPherson struts up front and a 15-mm stabilizer bar, a torsion beam axle with integral trailing arms, and a 20-mm stabilizer bar at the rear, the front-drive Golf GTI offered benchmark handling in 1985. “If you know what you’re doing, it will do what you know,” wrote Kucinski. The four-wheel, power-assisted disc brakes were also significant kit in what amounted to an economy car in 1985.

Optional equipment was exceedingly limited in 1985. Buyers could opt for A/C, a sunroof, power steering, cruise control, one of two stereos (with or without a cassette), and floor mats. The 1985 GTI was offered in just three colors: Black, Mars Red and Diamond Silver Metallic, which would run you an extra few bucks over the solid colors.

1986

For 1986, the only major change was the addition of a federally mandated center high-mounted stop light.

1987

In 1986, Volkswagen introduced a new Scirocco with a 16-valve version of the 1.8-liter four-cylinder. For the 1987 model year, Volkswagen slipped that engine into the GTI and named it the Golf GTI 16v. The 8V-powered GTI disappeared for the 1987 model year.

Power increased to a healthy 123 hp, according to the 16v brochure. It’s still not exactly “fast,” by today’s standards given its 8.5-second zero to 60 time, not to mention its leisurely jog to the quarter mile in 18 seconds at 88 mph, but it’s appropriate to the car and the time. William Jeanes at Car and Driver noted that the 16v in the Jetta “hauls you along quickly enough, it lets you know that it’s hard at work by keeping the decibel level high. The engine sounds seem to be anything but out of place in a sporty small sedan, but we’ll admit to feeling relief when we reached fifth gear and settled in at free­way speeds—at which point the engine settles into a quiet, comforting hum.”

Beyond the engine, the changes in the 16v were slight. The wheels are still 14 x 6-inch, but they’re the more familiar “teardrop” style. Those wheels were also shod with 205/55VR14 Pirelli P600s. The driver’s seat provided a height adjustment along with the recline feature. Options on the 16v included similar items to the 8V GTI, but added a heavy duty cooling package, a power package (including power windows, locks and mirrors), and standalone power locks.

The color palette broadened to Tornado Red, Diamond Silver Metallic, Dark Blue Mica, and Red Pearl Mica, the last three incurring a charge for metallic paint.

1988

Perhaps the biggest news for 1988 had nothing to do with the car, but more to do with where it was built. On July 14, 1988, Volkswagen of America officially closed Volkswagen Westmoreland Assembly. From here through 1992, all Volkswagen Golf GTIs sold in the United States came from the Puebla assembly plant in Mexico.

Optional equipment in 1988 shifted to include a number of option packages (P02, P03, P04, P15 and P39). P15 offered the most equipment, including radio prep, A/C, sunroof, the power package and cruise control. Additional equipment included a 6-speaker AM/FM radio/cassette, a power amplifier, a cassette storage box, theft protection, floor mats and California emissions.

Colors changed slightly, dropping the Diamond Silver Metallic and Dark Blue Mica, and adding Black and Alpine White.

1989

The major revision for the 1989 model year was a lone color change: Diamond Silver Metallic gave way to Silver Gray.

1990

This year marked the return of the 8V GTI, after a three year hiatus. Comments from Jeanes upon driving the 16v-powered Jetta GLI in the July 1989 issue of Car and Driver hinted at why the lower-powered GTI made a comeback: “The Jetta GLI 16v now costs—equipped with anti-lock brakes, air conditioning, cruise control, and a few other add-ons—a thumping $18,800.”

The base price of a Golf GTI 16v was cheaper, but $13,650 in the George H.W. Bush era was two grand more than you’d pay for a Mustang LX 5.0. The 8V GTI sought to address that, but it was severely de-contented compared to a GTI 16v. The 8v was basically a four-door Golf GL with a few visual GTI cues. You did get a five-horsepower increase over the two-door GL thanks to Digifant fuel injection, but gone were the four-wheel disc brakes in favor of the Golf GL’s rear drums, and these GTIs were equipped with the wide ratio five-speed gearbox from the GL.

1990 was also the first year you could purchase a GTI Wolfsburg Edition. For the first time, American buyers were able to equip an A2 GTI with round headlamps instead of the composite projector lamps from every other year. A GTI Wolfsburg Edition buyer also got a short, black, roof-mounted antenna, which kicked off a tradition that still exists today.

Both GTI and GTI 16v were offered in just three colors: Tornado Red, Alpine White, and Black.

1991

In 1991, the GTI and GTI 16v both underwent visual changes from the year before. Carried over from the Wolfsburg Edition, GTI and GTI 16v were both equipped with the European quad round headlamps, with a red detail line around the grille.

The GTI 16v’s engine displacement increased to 2.0 liters, and with it came a power increase to 134 hp and 133 lb-ft of torque at 4400 rpm. 15-inch BBS wheels came as part of the 16v trim. The Recaro seats lost their vinyl bolsters and went full cloth.

Adding to the three colors from 1990, 1991 brought the green Montana Clearcoat Metallic.

1992

1992 marked the final year in the United States for the A2 GTI and GTI 16v. It carried on a year longer than it did in the rest of the world. The biggest change was the addition of Light Sahara Clearcoat Metallic, Dark Teal Clearcoat Metallic, and Calypso Clearcoat Metallic, all of which were exclusive to the GTI only. The GTI 16v featured the same colors as the 1991 model year.

Before you buy

These are unibody cars that are now 36 years of age. When they were new they were daily drivers, and in the parts of the country where it snowed, many of them succumbed to the ravages of oxidation. But that’s general advice for any car that’s pushing 40 years old.

The problem for A2 Golf GTI owners is that these cars were plagued with water leaks, which could rot out a floorpan in a couple of years. Water sloshed in unimpeded from a number of different places: door membranes and seals, hatchback seals, turn indicator seals, and clogged drains for the sunroof and cowl.  The windshield corners can also leak. This comes up after the windshield has been replaced. The Mk2 Golf Channel has a good primer on the top 13 reasons why your A2 Golf is full of water. Rust is also common around the holes where the wipers come up from under the cowl.

Beyond water leaks, the heater core is also known to leak, and it’s a job A2 Golf enthusiasts talk about with the thousand yard stare of a mosh pit spectator at Woodstock ‘99.

Replacement body panels exist. Front fenders, radiator supports, inner and outer rockers, rear fender patch panels and tail panels are available, but they’re not cheap (outer sills are in the $239 range, for example). You need to carefully evaluate the value of the car versus the cost of setting any rust repair right. Our valuation section below may indicate that bodywork can outpace the value of a perfect, low-mileage car.

Engines are generally stout provided they’ve had the timing belt replaced on schedule. The 8v engines are non-interference, but the 16v are interference engines. The 16v engines had very mild cam profiles, and take well to any of the thriving aftermarket’s hotter cams and ECU tunes. The five-speed gearbox is pretty solid, but if it hasn’t been rebuilt yet it will almost certainly have a bad second gear synchro. Some forum members also report that failing motor mounts and a misadjusted linkage can cause grinding gears.

Electrical problems seem to be limited to either failing older components (window motors, blower motors, gauges, relays, etc.), or the result of hackery in the form of bad audio and lighting installs.

Seat upholstery is generally tough, and while the dashes can be prone to cracking, it’s no worse than any other car from this era. Carpets wear, but are replaceable. The bigger trouble is replacing missing parts, as interior parts are difficult to source.

1985—92 Volkswagen GTI valuation

The Hagerty Valuation Team notes that prices have been creeping up for this model, especially over the last couple of years. A GTI in median #2 condition will have experienced a 62 percent increase in value over the last three years, but please check here for the latest valuation data.

That said, the GTI and GTI 16v is still a relative bargain in the 1980s European car market. Over the last three years, Bring a Trailer has only sold ONE Mk2 GTI for more than $20,000 and it was a heavily modified example with a VR6 under the hood. The cleanest, unmodified GTI 16v in the last year was a 1987 in Diamond Silver Metallic, with just 16,000 miles. This example only sold for $15,750.

Hagerty is providing a lot more insurance quotes on GTIs as they move from daily driver to collector car status. Over the last five years, Hagerty has provided 50 percent more quotes, and in the last three years, the quoted value of those cars has increased by 16 percent.

Because of their relative affordability, and the people who were interested in them when they were new, GTI and GTI 16v owners are much younger. A full 39 percent of A2 Golf quotes come from millennials, who only make up 19 percent of the market. Right behind them, Gen X quotes 33 percent of A2 Golfs, making up 32 percent of the market. Boomers—the largest representative group at 37 percent of the total market—only quote 15 percent of A2 Golfs. Gen Z makes up just six percent overall but quotes 10 percent of A2 Golfs. Preboomers have about as much real estate in the market as Gen Z, and they only quote 3 percent of the A2 Golfs that come to Hagerty.

Based on information from the Valuation Team, the year doesn’t affect value that much, and neither does the presence of a 16v motor. The later 2.0-liter 16v cars have about a five percent boost in value, but all of the cars in #1 condition hover between $15,200 and $17,100.

These GTIs are on the march, for sure. If you’ve ever been interested in owning one, now may be the perfect time. Five years from now, you shouldn’t be surprised to see excellent quality, low-mileage examples sell for $25,000.

The post Your handy 1985–92 VW Golf GTI buyer’s guide appeared first on Hagerty Media.

It seems insane now, when a Dino 246 GTS would run you about what a decent house in Portland, Maine would cost, but at the time the Dino 246 GT was introduced, some didn’t consider it “real Ferrari.” And that’s despite the fact that the 1970 brochure called it “proof of the constant development of smaller Ferrari cars.”

It had been a rocky start. The low-production 206 from whence the Dino 246 sprang had anything but an easy launch. “I watched Italian owners suffering the pangs of growth with the early models,” wrote Denis Jenkinson in the September 1971 issue of Motor Sport, “in the days when it was the thing to do to sidle up to the owner of a Dino Ferrari as he was about to drink his coffee and innocently enquire ‘How’s the Dino?’ Nine times out of ten he would spill his coffee as he hastily snapped ‘Why?’ Early Dino owners were very touchy about the fact that they had paid an awful lot of money for a car that was still having teething troubles.”

But with each passing year, the 246 GT and later 246 GTS earned their reputations as fabulous automobiles. Start with the superlatives. The 206, produced in just 152 examples, was the very first mid-engine Ferrari road car, laying the groundwork for most of the iconic Ferraris to come afterward: The 512BB, the Testarossa, the Enzo, and the current F8 and SF90 Stradale. It was the first Ferrari to feature a transverse-mounted engine. It was the first road-going Ferrari to run the Dino V-6 conceived by and named for Enzo Ferrari’s son, and it was also the very first street Ferrari with an electronic ignition.

Leading up to the production version of the 206 GT, Ferrari showed five prototypes: The Dino Speciale Berlinetta at the 1965 Paris Auto Show, the Dino Berlinetta GT at the 1966 Frankfurt Auto Show, the Dino Berlinetta Prototipo Competizione Pininfarina at the 1967 Frankfurt Auto Show, and the earliest known production 206 GT at the Brussels Auto Show in 1968.

Whenever Denis Jenkinson was asked how the 246 GT drove, he responded with the question: “How does it look?” The only response was that it was gorgeous to the eyes. “That’s how it goes,” he’d always conclude. It’s not a difficult equation to understand.

1969—70 (L Series)

Penned by Aldo Brovarone and Leonardo Fioravanti at Pininfarina and brought to life as an aluminum monocoque by Scaglietti, the Dino 206 GT’s styling was unimpeachable. The Dino was the bridge between the soft-edged, curvaceous lines of 1950s and 1960s Ferraris and the origami style of every road-going Ferrari that would come after it.

The Dino 246 GT went into production in March of 1969. The biggest change wasn’t to the engine, it was to the monocoque. The silhouette looked the same, but the central structure was constructed of steel rather than aluminum to save money. Most, though possibly not all, L Series cars were equipped with aluminum doors, hoods, and engine covers. The vents in the engine cover differed slightly from those in the 206 GT’s: two rows of six, rather than two rows of seven. The 246 GT is two inches longer in wheelbase, and four inches longer overall. The 246 GT was also an inch taller.

The suspension was relatively conventional: fully independent with upper and lower control arms and coil springs at all four corners, with slender antiroll bars front and rear. The brakes are all outboard discs with single-pot calipers. Steering is provided by an unassisted rack and pinion setup. Wheels were center-bolt style Cromodoras with knockoff hubs.

The trouble with the 206—and the reason for the 246 GT—was the engine. Ferrari’s idea was that the engines would be purpose-built in Maranello, but Fiat management insisted on producing the engines on the Fiat line. Whether you bought a Dino 206 or the Fiat Dino, you got the same engine, produced by the same Fiat workers.

The Dino 246 needed more power, and it needed an exclusive engine if it were to have any hope of success. Within a year, Ferrari developed its own 2.4-liter, 65-degree dual-overhead-cam V-6 with triple Webers and a cast-iron block. In European form, the engine turned out 195 hp, but those cars bound for the United States had timing changes and an air pump that dropped power to 175 hp.

The 65-degree vee is wholly unique to the Dino’s engine. The banks of most V-6 engines are arranged in a 60-degree vee, but Dino’s extra five degrees allowed for straight intake runners. The crank also has separate crankpins for every piston, which allows for even time between firing pulses. (V-6s at the time were either odd-fire, like Buick’s 225, or had internal balance shafts to compensate for the uneven firing interval.)

Inside, the Dino 246 GT was typical Ferrari: well-sculpted dash padded and upholstered in suede-esque mousehair, heat controls in the center stack (over an opening in which a dealer would stick a Becker or Grundig radio), a straightforward binnacle containing the instruments, a non-adjustable steering column canted at an angle, leather bucket seats with headrests, and a console with a gated five-speed manual transmission gearshift.

When Denis Jenkinson drove his tester, he complained about exactly two things: The speedometer and tach were of equal size, rendering them indistinguishable in a single glance. (He’d have been happier with a Porsche 911-style arrangement, with a large tach front-and-center.) Second, the seat back was non-adjustable; but this grievance suggests he was driving a later-series car. These early L Series cars had tilt adjustment for the seat back.

Ferrari built 357 L Series cars between 1969 and the summer of 1970, all of which were left-hand drive. The first L Series car carries s/n 00400, and the last L Series Car was s/n 01116.

1970–71 (M Series)

While they look identical, there are a number of minor changes that identify the M Series cars. The wheels are the big revision. Rather than the knockoff Cromodoras, which were exactly the same as those on the 206 GT, the Series II cars featured five-lug, 6.5-inch-wide Cromodoras. The brake supplier for the M Series cars changed from Girling to ATE.

Outside, the lockable trunk button on the early cars disappeared in favor of an interior latch. Exterior door locks moved from the scoop area to a position lower on the door. Earlier cars had twin reverse lights mounted under the bumper, but the M Series only has one. All M Series cars had aluminum doors, but the hood was often made of steel, for reasons unknown.

On the interior, the M Series had courtesy lights which activated when the doors were opened. The footwell on the passenger side became shallower, and the folding footrest in the L Series cars disappeared. Each of the doors was equipped with a small storage box.

In October of 1970, Ferrari produced right-hand-drive Dinos, according to the Dino Register. Beginning with s/n 01250 there was a minor mid-year change to the front bumper. M Series cars begin with s/n 01118 and end with s/n 02130 in 1971. Ferrari built 507 M Series Dinos in total.

1971–74 (E Series)

Beginning with s/n 02132, Ferrari kicked off the E Series, with another host of minor changes. Even so, it’s confusing to distinguish them from earlier cars. For example, all L and M series cars used “clapping hands” wipers that parked in the center of the cowl. Early E Series continued with those wipers but, beginning in 1972, the wipers both swung in the same direction and, when not in use, rested toward the left side of the windscreen.

Here’s the kicker: That’s not a hard-and-fast rule. For example, cars bound for the U.S. may have continued using the earlier wiper system as late as s/n 05100, and the few right-hand-drive cars Ferrari built would continue using the earlier center-park wipers throughout the production run. E Series cars also had steel doors in most cases, though the hood often was constructed of aluminum—but not always.

Beginning with s/n 03408 in 1972, Ferrari began offering the 246 GTS, introducing a targa roof for the first time. The 246 GTS was only offered from 1972 to 1974. According to the Dino Register, beginning with serial numbers “in the 4000s,” Ferrari began offering the Dino 246 GT with 7.5×14 Campagnolo “Elektron” wheels and a fender flare option. The option added $680 to the price of a standard Dino.

The Dino Register also suggests that the owner of Dino 04878 claimed to “have a letter from the Ferrari factory which states that his car was the first to be equipped with Daytona seats by the factory.” The seats and wider wheels were often ordered together, a pattern which lead to the Dino “chairs and flares” moniker, but the seats and wheel flares were two separate options.

The E Series is by far the most plentiful Dino 246, with 2897 built in total. Of those, 1623 were 246 GT coupes and 1274 246 GTS models featured the targa roof.

Beyond the series changes, it’s also important to understand the differences between cars built for Europe, England, and the United States.

European cars: The home-market versions of the 246 GT and GTS were identified by their turn signal lamps, which were flush with the bodywork. Most of the time, these lenses were clear. The European cars also had redundant turn signals—which were small, round, and amber—mounted on the sides of the front fenders. Chassis numbers were stamped on a tag on the windshield pillar, but it’s important to note that these are often missing.

British cars: Cars bound for England were right-hand drive, but they also had amber turn-signal lenses, as opposed to the clear lenses usually found on the home-market cars. After s/n 04830, the chassis numbers moved from the aforementioned tag to a stamping directly on the steering column.

U.S.A. cars: American cars had yet a third style of front turn signal. They were amber and recessed into the bodywork, and the lens stood up vertically from the body, as opposed to the flush mounting of those on European and British cars. Cars bound for the U.S. also had rectangular marker lights at all four corners, as well as reflectors mounted on either side of the number plate. All U.S.-bound cars featured the appropriate emissions controls, as well as a serial number stamped on the steering column and visible through the windshield.

Before you buy

A steel monocoque equals major rust concerns. This isn’t a Jeep CJ5, where you can jack up the body and order another one online. Rust in a rough Dino will consume more dollars than the initial purchase. Corrosion in the center chassis tube is lethal. Corrosion in the lower doors, steel or aluminum, is common, and in the wheel arches, too. The sandwiched steel panels behind the rear wheels will also trap water and rust.

Mechanically, cooling issues were especially problematic for the Dino. The car should run in the 195-degree range. Climbing up to 225 indicates an issue. Electrical gremlins can keep the cooling fans from running, and the electric motors themselves can die over time. Air can get trapped in the Dino’s long coolant hoses and water pump inlet, and some owners report having to rebuild the water pump every 30,000 miles with new seals and bearings.

The Dino engine is reportedly about as stout as you can expect from a 50-year-old Italian sports car. The cams spin via twin timing chains and, to quote one expert, “I have never seen a V-6 [Dino] chain fail catastrophically.” When it comes to the gearbox, if a test drive reveals in any grinding between first and second, the synchro is shot and a gearbox rebuild is in your future.

These were the first Ferraris with electronic ignition. Magneti Marelli’s Dinoplex was one of the first capacitive discharge ignition systems on the market, initially developed for Scuderia Ferrari and quickly adapted for the high-revving Dino V-6, hence the name. When the key is turned to the on position, the transformer core will vibrate and emit a distinctive humming. If that’s not happening, you can often trace the problem to a failed power transistor. Beyond that, Dinoplex.org has everything you could possibly want to learn about it, including an extensive diagnostic and repair document.

Electrics are not a Dino strong point. Experts suggest flipping yourself upside down and getting a look at the wiring behind the ignition switch. Any scorching will indicate significant wiring problems. Keep in mind that these cars are at best 47 years old and the wiring insulation is bound to be dried out.

The suspension is relatively standard and fairly easy to diagnose. Bushings and shocks go bad, naturally. Any twitchiness in the steering can be related to alignment issues. The brakes are about as straightforward as they get, and have no unusual issues. Steering racks are available from European suppliers, and run around $850.

Inside, age will have its way with a Dino’s upholstery and interior parts, but pretty much all the soft parts are available through suppliers like Re-Originals.

Valuation

Dino values took a dramatic hit during the 2008/2009 recession, but they’ve taken off since. Between 2009 and 2015, for example, a 246 GT in #2 (Excellent) condition climbed, on average, 206 percent. Values have tapered off a bit since 2017, falling about 17 percent, but the Dino enjoys a pretty stable market today. Cars from 1974 seem to appreciate a few percentage points faster than those from other years, but not dramatically so. According to the Hagerty Valuation Tool, a 246 GTS will cost $50,000 more than the coupe, but please check here for the most up-to-date pricing information.

Dinos are most popular among Baby boomers, who account for 62 percent of Dino quotes though they comprise only 37 of the collector car market. Gen Xers come in second, with 18 percent of quotes, and Preboomers third, with 13 percent. Millennial interest is the weakest: This set accounts for a bare 7 percent of Dino quotes, though millennials make up 19 percent of the market.

In 1985, Road & Track’s Peter Egan drove a 246 GT through a blizzard from Wisconsin to California. He said it was “the only Ferrari I desired that ever appeared on the used car market at prices a man could nearly af­ford if he sold every last thing he owned, except for his old British sports cars.” Thirty-five years later, that’s still true. Ditch your house, your motorcycles, and your guitar collection, and you might still be able to scrape together the funds to buy one of these gorgeous automobiles.

The post Your handy 1969–74 Dino 246 GT and GTS buyer’s guide appeared first on Hagerty Media.

After making its debut at the Chicago Auto Show in early July, the 2022 Maverick is preparing to thrust Ford into an arena it hasn’t inhabited in years—the compact pickup market. Our first in-person look, at the New England Motor Press Association annual banquet, confirms that the Maverick is indeed small. It’s dramatically scaled-down compared to an F-150 and considerably shorter and narrower than even the Ranger, which was supposed to be the brand’s re-entry into the smaller pickup market. Naturally, we had questions.

Why does Ford need a smaller truck?

We talked to Zach Nakos, Product Marketing Manager for the Maverick, about the need for a truck that slots in below the Ranger. “We had an opportunity to create an entry-level product to bring people into the showroom,” he said. The Maverick works as a draw for returning sedan customers who may be at a different life stage than they were when they bought something like a Fusion. Or think about an empty-nester, for example, who no longer needs the space to carry seven in an Explorer but wants the utility of a small pickup.

The Ranger ostensibly fits that profile, too, but the Ranger is a pure pickup. The Maverick is based on the C2 platform, which underpins the Ford Escape, Lincoln Corsair, Ford Bronco Sport, and the Ford Focus.

It’s important to remember, too, that those returning sedan customers that Nakos referenced have nothing else to come back to at Ford. There’s no longer a Fiesta, Focus, Fusion, nor Taurus in Ford’s product offering, Mercury has been gone for years, and Lincoln is now an SUV-only brand. The only “car” in the entire Ford Motor Company lineup is the Mustang.

As a result, the Maverick has to cover a lot of ground. It aims to compensate up for the loss of a sedan in the lineup by providing comfortable space for five inside. This is a front-drive platform, and as a result, the size of the transmission tunnel required for a rear-drive-based truck is significantly reduced, allowing for a lot of interior room.

The Maverick also offers a bed size pretty close to that of the Ranger, albeit in a much smaller, much shorter vehicle. “We tested the bed access with people in the fifth percentile in terms of height,” Nakos told us. “They were able to reach into the bed without standing on the bumper or the rear tire.” For a typical consumer of average height, even the middle of the bed is accessible without climbing.

The height of the cab is also much shorter. The height of the shortest F-150 is 75.2 inches, or 6.2 feet. A four-wheel-drive F-150 is almost 6.5 feet tall. A four-wheel-drive Ranger is a baseball cap under six feet. The Maverick is five feet seven inches. It makes the Maverick a lot more appealing to customers in cities or congested suburbs where garage space makes owning a Ranger challenging, and an F-150 impossible.

What’s the fuel economy like?

Fuel efficiency is the other thing that makes the Maverick attractive. The base Maverick is a front-wheel-drive hybrid, offering up to 40 mpg from its 191-hp equivalent hybrid drivetrain—better output and efficiency than what you could’ve expected out of a new Focus. It offers 500 miles of range on a single tank of gas, plus enough payload capacity to carry 1500 pounds, or towing for up to 2000 pounds—plenty for customers who tow watercraft or small fishing boats.

For customers who love the size, but aren’t as concerned with fuel mileage, the Maverick is also available with a conventional 250-hp 2.0-liter EcoBoost four-cylinder with an eight-speed transmission. With an available tow package, it can tow up to 4000 pounds, enough for the average 21-foot boat.

What about the interior digs?

If you’ve looked at pickups over the last decade, the first thing you’ll notice with the Maverick—aside from its size—is the simplicity of the instrument panel and center stack. The cabin has all the features a modern vehicle shopper is looking for, but the gigantic touchscreen you’ll find in a typical full-size truck (think Ram 1500) isn’t there. Heat and audio controls are operated by four simple knobs you already know how to use without fumbling at speed. The gauges are simple and easy to read.

With the front seats moved all the way to the back of the tracks, there’s still room in the rear for adults. With the seats set at a more average position, the rear seat legroom is generous, and so is storage. Under the rear seat, there’s enough storage height to fit a fully inflated volleyball and width to carry laptop bags.

Will it cost an arm and a leg?

We’ve arrived the somewhat shocking part of this entire offering: In base form—front-wheel-drive with the hybrid driveline—the Maverick comes in at five bucks under $20,000 ($21,490 with destination). That makes it the cheapest vehicle in Ford’s entire product line, by $400.

Naturally, you’ll spend more money if you want better appointments, all-wheel drive, and the 2.0-liter powerplant. But you’d have to go well out of your way to spend more than $32,000 on a Maverick.

Like the 2022 Maverick, the 1970 Maverick was intended to be an “import fighter,” as described by an article by Don Woodward in Utah’s Deseret News in 1969, announcing the original Maverick’s launch. The import that the 2022 Maverick appears to be directly fighting is Honda’s Ridgeline, which despite its merits for many customers, is notable for being universally derided by people who don’t own them. People who do love them and have no issue spending upwards of $42,000 to get a top-tier example.

A fully loaded “First Edition” Maverick with everything on the option list including all-wheel drive and the EcoBoost 2.0-liter comes in at a staggering $10,000 less. Since 2006, Honda has had the front-drive truck segment completely to itself. Now it certainly appears that there’s a fight afoot, and Ford seems poised to win it, unless the Hyundai Santa Cruz proves a world-beater.

What’s with the name?

Over the last year and a half, Ford seems to be on a singular mission to troll automotive enthusiasts with its naming conventions. Veins bulged when the Mustang Mach-E debuted, swelled to the breaking point when the company started taking reservations for the F-150 Lightning, and popped entirely as two-thirds of the country seems unable to discern the difference between a Bronco and a Bronco Sport.

For a rapidly dwindling number of consumers, “Ford Maverick” equates to the two-door economy car that replaced the Falcon. Of course, Ford hasn’t built a car with that name since the Carter administration. And even then, it only used the name for seven years. The median American car shopper was born six years after Ford quit making the original car. The average person wandering into a Ford showroom is unaware that the 1970 Maverick even existed.

In that Deseret News piece from 1969, Don Woodward closes with the etymology of the name: “The Maverick takes its name from a Texas pioneer named Samuel Augustus Maverick, who refused to have his herd of 400 cattle branded. This bit of independence, in an area where the brand was the only seal of ownership, immortalized his name in the English language.”

If Ford has bet on the right horse, to use a pained metaphor too often pinned on the Mustang, that Maverick designation may be wholly appropriate.

The post The 2022 Ford Maverick resurrects an old name for a new purpose appeared first on Hagerty Media.

The 1972 Geneva International Motor Show gave the world several significant cars: Ford Europe introduced the Granada, Citroën displayed the Bertone-styled GS Camargue, and Ferrari pulled the wraps off the Dino 246 GTS. All of these cars were popular, influential, and remain sought after nearly 50 years later. But only one car company previewed technologies and designs that would infiltrate almost every vehicle sold by mainstream auto manufacturers today: Volvo.

By ’72, Volvo had built a reputation synonymous with good value. As many readers may know, its chief safety engineer Nils Bohlin won a patent for his design for the three-point safety belt, and Volvo essentially gave the technology away in the name of humanity. But that was back in 1958, and at that time, in the car-hungry United States, nobody especially cared. Ford learned this lesson the hard way in 1956, with its “Lifeguard Design” features, that it was a lot harder to sell safety than it was to sell a high-compression V-8, or the latest chrome finial on a tailfin.

That began to change in the 1970s. Ralph Nader’s Unsafe at Any Speed became a non-fiction bestseller in 1966. It led directly to the first set of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards enacted in 1968. There was an appetite for occupant safety and manufacturers knew it.

Volvo took its opportunity at the 1972 Geneva Auto Show to unveil its research in experimental safety concepts with the Volvo Experimental Safety Car, or VESC.

On the surface, the VESC was a fairly conventional concept car in that it showed the design direction of the upcoming Volvo 240, which was set to go on sale in 1974. The production car would go on to sell 2.9 million cars over 19 model years, and it would include several safety innovations from the VESC.

The innovations included in the VESC weren’t necessarily the first time these had appeared on a concept car, or the first time they’d even been in a production car. The collapsible steering column in the VESC, for example, would be in every Volvo 240 from the beginning, but that wasn’t new technology, by any means. GM developed one in the 1930s, and began using them in production cars in 1967.

What was innovative in the VESC was the forward-looking, holistic approach of safety technology and design in a single product. Today, this way of thinking has become so commonplace that we hardly even make note of it:

• Airbags for both front and rear seat occupants
• Airbag as head restraint on the rear seat package shelf
• Concealed front seat head restraints that automatically deployed in a collision
• Crumple zones designed to absorb a crash between 30 and 50 miles per hour
• An integral roll cage in the roof and doors
• Rear engine mounts designed to aim the engine downward and away from the passenger compartment in a crash
• Headlamp washers and wipers
• Rear windscreen washers and wiper
• Bumpers designed to absorb impact and protect body panels up to 10 mph (the 5 mph regulation in the U.S. was still two years away)
• Anti-lock brakes
• Automatic ride-height control
• Automatic fuel supply cut-off
• Acoustic backup warning

Make no mistake, this was an arsenal of design and technology that was years ahead of any federal or international regulations. And many of its advancements (ABS, headlamp washers, rear wipers and backup warnings), especially in conjunction with one another, represented a new way to think about auto safety: avoiding the crash before it can ever happen.

Starting from its founding in 1927, to its patent for safety belts in 1959, the VESC in 1972, and through to its current Safety Vision (in which no driver or passenger would die in one of its cars), Volvo has staked its reputation on safety. It was never about building the fastest car, or the sexiest concept, but rather a commitment to keeping its customers alive. The VESC set the stage for everything Volvo would do in the next half-century. The world is still reaping those benefits.

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What the passing car enthusiast fails to realize is how revolutionary the Corvair was, even in its production form. In the 1980s and 1990s, all that U.S. manufacturers wanted to do was build an American version of a European sports sedan. However, GM had accomplished just that in 1960 with the Corvair, and the second-gen cars would refine the recipe even further. Before that second-generation arrived, though, Chevrolet whetted the public’s appetite with two shockingly beautiful concept cars, the Corvair Monza GT and the Corvair Monza SS.

The Monza GT was the first to arrive on the show stage, but its story goes back much further than 1962. Like VW and the Beetle—and, more importantly, the Karmann Ghia—Chevrolet was in cahoots with many design houses, rebodying early-model Corvairs as a means of building interest not only here but also in Europe. As early as 1960, Pininfarina was displaying its Corvair Speciale, mere months after Chevrolet’s car went on sale.

The Speciale was a four-seat coupe, a slightly sexier body wrapped around the existing interior. Bertone went a step further, shortening the unibody floorpan from a 1963 Monza 900 and trimming its wheelbase to 94 inches. The styling job for the sleek, two-door sports car went to Giorgetto Giugiaro, then employed by Bertone, and the result was the Chevrolet Testudo, driven straight to the Geneva Auto Show by Nuccio Bertone himself.

Most literature on the Corvair Monza GT focuses on its exterior, which is amazing, but there’s a lot going on under the skin that’s worth examining. The suspension became infamous thanks to Ralph Nader’s Unsafe at Any Speed, but by the time Nader’s book was published in 1965, Chevrolet had already revised the system, replacing the early model’s swing-arm setup (1960–64) with a fully independent design in the late-model cars (1965–69). Still, that later suspension design doesn’t come close to the Monza GT’s fully adjustable, double-wishbone arrangement, which allowed the maximum amount of tire contact throughout the range of movement. Even better, the Monza GT’s brakes were four-wheel discs; drums would remain standard-issue for production Corvairs until the final year in 1969.

When Larry Shinoda and Tony Lapine began work on their own Corvair concept car, they’d seen the Speciale, and took some styling direction from that car. Like Pininfarina, they trimmed even more out of a Corvair coupe’s unibody, resulting in the Monza GT’s 92-inch wheelbase. They used a standard 102-hp Corvair Turbo Air-6 with twin Rochester carburetors, but they flipped the engine so that it sat ahead of the transaxle, giving the concept a mid-engine layout.

Shinoda and Lapine’s design also utilized the flip-forward canopy from the Speciale. The cutlines extended into the door openings, allowing easier access to the passenger cabin. The seats were fixed, but the pedals could be adjusted for driver preference. The rear engine cover was a massive hatch that pivoted rearward, with ample venting for the air-cooled engine underneath. The hatch stretched from the very back of the car all the way to the trailing edge of the doors, and twin exhaust outlets protruded from blisters in the rear fenders. The nose somewhat foreshadowed that of the ’68 Corvette. The headlamps were concealed behind two electrically operated clamshell doors which, when opened, revealed European-style composite lamps—unlike anything that would be legal on American roads. The wheels were magnesium four-hole, Halibrand-style knockoffs. The rear cowl of the Monza GT was really the only thing that made it to production, finding a home on the late-model (’65–69) Corvair.

The Monza GT made its debut in June of 1962 at Elkhart Lake. From there, it was shipped to the New York International Auto Show in March of ’63, where it was joined by another Corvair concept car, the Monza SS. In a way, the Monza SS a less-radical engineering exercise, because its engine was conventionally mounted. As a result, there’s a lot more car behind the rear wheels.

The proportions are still gorgeous. Without concern for headroom, the windscreen is cut to the barest minimum on the Monza SS, and it flows beautifully into the side glass. Where the Monza GT’s doors are integrated into the flip-forward canopy, the Monza SS has conventional, front-hinged units. The passengers are protected by an integrated roll bar.

Instead of a massive flip-up engine hatch comprising the entire back third of the car, the Monza SS has fixed fenders, and a more conventional decklid that hides the rear-mounted powerplant. The earliest concept had the same hidden headlamps as the Monza GT, while the car that arrived in New York had fixed European headlamps, protected behind Lexan covers integrated into the shark-like nose. The wheels are turbine-style alloys with knockoffs, similar to those worn by a contemporary C2 Corvette.

While neither of these cars went into production, Chevrolet did produce wildly popular miniature versions for sale.

Both of these cars are low, mean, knife-edged designs that had undeniable influence across the Atlantic. Look at either of these cars, which made the rounds in 1962 and 1963, and take another peek at the Lamborghini Miura (1966–73) and the Alfa Romeo Montreal (1970–77). American manufacturers might taken their cues from European designs in the latter years of the 20th century, but the Monza GT and SS suggest that, in the early ’60s, influence flowed the other way, too.

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Why, why, why does half the world seem to ignore this Supra? The later fourth-generation Supras are sports-car royalty thanks to a more powerful turbo engine and 20 years of appearances in blockbuster movies, all while the third-generation, A70 Supra languishes, comparatively ignored. Yet, the 1986.5 to 1993 Toyota Supra is one of the best-looking grand touring cars of the era, with engine power (especially after 1987) that was competitive with most everything else from that time period.

You have to appreciate the A70 Supra for what it was: A pre-Lexus touring car that was sportier and much better-looking than the SC 300, with sharply angled styling instead of the Melted Bean school from the 1990s. Yes, they’re heavy, but they never took on the bloat of the Nissan 300ZX. On paper, they’re not fast, but at the time, the Turbo was the fastest Japanese car available, so it’s time to look at these cars with fresh eyes and understand what an amazing value they are. Not many cars this good are sitting there for the taking like the A70.

1986.5

The A70 Supra arrived in the United States as a late-model introduction. Based on the Z20 Toyota Soarer platform, the Supra officially, completely divorced itself from the Celica family, retaining its inline-six, rear-drive bones.

Like every Supra through the A90, the car was engineered by a person who should be as much an automotive household name as J. Mays or Peter Schreyer. Yukihiko Yaguchi is a bona fide legend, mostly recognized for his role as the Emeritus Chief Engineer of the Lexus F brand. But Yaguchi’s hands are all over four of the five Supra generations, and most notably the A70. Also present during the A70’s development were almost every one of the people behind the much ballyhooed Lexus LFA. Contemporary articles on the A70 never even hinted that the Supra had a human behind it, as if the car just hatched, fully formed out of an algorithm just inside Toyota’s Tahara plant. But Yaguchi was busy, prodding the car along, laying the groundwork for what would eventually be the performance cars for which Lexus would build its sports-car reputation: capable automobiles that were easy to drive for anyone at any driving level, suitable for fast runs from one side of the country to the other. And Hiromo Naruse was there, flogging the Soarer-based suspension that Haruhiko Tanahashi developed on the Nürburgring, making the A70 the first Toyota prototype ever to be evaluated there.

Perfectly in the style of the mid-1980s, the design wasn’t fully appreciated, even at the time. Arthur St. Antoine at Car and Driver wrote in 1987, “Otherwise, the design—like it or not—is unchanged. Though we’ve never felt that the current Supra’s shape is as distinctive as, say, the Corvette’s, it is beginning to grow on us.” But put its design in the ring with anything from 1986, from any nation—300ZX, 944, RX-7, Corvette—and at a minimum, the design is competitive. At best, it blows some of those competitors out of the water.

St. Antoine continued with the chief complaint about the A70: Its weight. “Our only real complaint is that the car looks every bit as heavy as it is,” he wrote. You could argue that it is a valid criticism as the A70 weighed almost 3500 pounds, but what didn’t? It’s 200 pounds heavier than the Corvette, but that comparison never made any sense anyway. The A70 was more like a Japanese IROC-Z or Porsche 928.

In the plus side of the ledger, the 1986.5 Supra had everything that made a grand tourer special in that era: a huge-bore 3.0-liter 7M-GE inline six with electronic ignition and fuel injection, dual overhead cams, a multi-link suspension at every corner, four-wheel disc brakes, a five-speed manual transmission (not to mention a surprisingly good four-speed automatic), and a limited-slip differential.

Inside, the Supra was magic. Leave the button-happy dash aside for a moment, and compare the seats in this car to anything made at Toyota in 2021. This car wins out every single time. The standard cloth seats are just as adjustable, but the optional “glove-soft” leather chairs described in the marketing materials are absolutely gorgeous, and as comfortable to use as they are beautiful to look at. In 1986, the science of ergonomics was so unfamiliar that Toyota actually defined it in the brochure. Power adjustments controlled lumbar and side supports, while manual controls offered custom fit for every frame. The headrests not only raised and lowered, but tilted, and the recline feature was step less, offering infinite adjustment within the range. The floor of the car was 40 mm lower than the one that preceded it, and the seat offered 30 mm more travel, in order to make the Supra more comfortable for every driver and passenger. “A large interior with the fit of a fine suit of clothes,” the marketing materials suggested.

The weight would’ve been less of an issue had the Supra debuted with a turbo midway through the 1986 model year, but it didn’t. It was offered with a lone engine, the 7M-GE, delivering 200 hp at 6000 rpm and 185 lb-ft of torque at 4800 rpm. Smooth, nearly bulletproof, quiet—but not fast: “PERFORMANCE WITHOUT COMPROMISE” read the brochure in 1986. That was perhaps very generous, as the compromise was clearly laid out right underneath that line: “0 to 60 in 7.33 seconds.” For a normally aspirated car, that performance wasn’t necessarily disappointing. A Porsche 944 without a turbo took a half-second longer. A Z28 with a 305 was going to take two seconds longer to get there. The problem? There was no other engine option that first half-year, and that went a long way toward setting the tone the press for this car for years afterward.

In 2021, anything north of a Camry is equipped with variable suspension settings, but in 1986, optional Toyota Electronically Modulated Suspension (TEMS) was revolutionary, automatically matching suspension performance to driver input. Within that, the driver could choose two suspension settings—Normal and Sport. Normal allowed the shocks to work in Soft, Medium and Firm modes, while Sport tightened up the ride to Medium and Firm modes.

Supra colors were available in single color (White), Pearl Clearcoat (White, Red, Dark Blue) Metallic Clearcoat (Amethyst, Brown, Light Blue, Black) and optional two-tone (Dark Blue/Blue or Beige/Brown). Interior colors were Blue, Maroon, Gray, and Beige. Toyota sold 34,832 Supras in 1986, the second best year of sales in the car’s entire history. One of the coolest options available was the Sport Roof, a steel Targa-style top affixed by four bolts, stowable in the cargo compartment. With the roof in place, the Supra achieved a 0.33 drag coefficient, pretty rarified air in 1986.

1987

In retrospect, Toyota may have been wise to hold off selling the Supra entirely until the Supra Turbo was ready to go in 1987. The turbo addressed about 95 percent of any complaints about the car’s performance. Air-to-air intercooled with a water-cooled center bearing, the turbocharger dialed the 7M-GTE’s performance to 230 hp at 5600 rpm and 246 lb ft of torque at 4000 rpm, dropping the 0 to 60 time to 6.4 seconds, a second and a half faster than independent testing showed for the normally aspirated car. Suddenly, the Supra’s weight wasn’t such an issue.

Like the natural-breathing version, the Supra Turbo was available with a manual or a four-speed automatic, but the five-speed was unique to this car. Instead of the W58 manual in the Supra, the Supra Turbo got an Aisin R154, with taller second and third gears, and a slightly shorter fifth for snappier response in overdrive. The turbo was also packaged with most of the goodies on the optional side of the normally aspirated car’s menu. The Sports Package was standard, and included a limited-slip differential, the advanced Toyota Electronic Modulated Suspension System (TEMS), and headlamp washers.

The option list grew to include two important items for 1987. First was the anti-lock braking system, optional for both the Supra and the Supra Turbo. After 1987, Toyota killed the optional two-tone Beige and Brown, which is a lot more handsome than it sounds. Sales in 1987 remained strong, at 29,907 units.

1988

Only two significant changes occurred in the 1988 model year. First, the two-tone brown paint scheme from last year disappeared. Second, spoiler-equipped Supras got a nicer trapezoid design for the center high-mounted stop light, rather than the uninspired rectangle on the 1986.5 and 1987 cars. Toyota produced 19,596 Supras for 1988.

1989

There were a host of minor updates for the 1989 model year. None changed the design significantly, but the Supra received a new front bumper with a lower grille integrated into its design, new turn indicators, updated side mirrors, and fog lamps. 1989 was a big year in terms of future collectibility, as this was the debut of the White Exterior Appearance Package. If you ask anyone who lived through the late 1980s to conjure an image of the A70 Supra, they’re probably going to picture a car equipped with the White Package. These monochrome white Supras featured matching white moldings, and in 1989 and 1990, white saw-blade alloy wheels.

There were changes inside, too. From 1986.5 to 1988, the center stack was black with silver buttons, a design that frankly looked out of a different time when the car was new. In 1989, the buttons went black with white print, for a much more contemporary look. The steering wheel design also changed, albeit only slightly. From 1986.5 to 1988, the steering wheel mounted cruise control buttons were in an odd place on the lower vertical third spoke of the wheel. The design change moved them to the two horizontal spokes, where they were accessible without removing hands from the 9:00 and 3:00 positions.

The Supra Turbo’s main revision was to the rear spoiler. The first two years, the spoiler was one piece, but for 1989, the Turbo got a more aggressive three-piece spoiler design with pronounced tips mounted to the tops of the rear quarters, integrated with the power antenna. In 1989, Toyota produced 14,544 Supras.

1990

The bulk of revisions for the 1990 model year were to the dash and steering wheel. The one-year-only thumb-operated cruise control buttons moved again, this time to a small stalk on the right, which will be familiar to anyone who has driven a Toyota in the last 30 years. That change was necessitated by the bigger news for 1990: the standard driver’s side Supplemental Restraint System (i.e. an airbag) took up a lot of real estate in the center of the wheel, and changed the wheel from a sporty three-spoke to a more standard issue four-spoke. The wheel was still unique to the Supra, as it sported a rim wrapped in leather, with the Supra script prominently displayed.

It’s worth noting the dramatic impact of the 1990 Recession on Supra sales: For 1990, Toyota sold 6,419 Supras, a free fall of almost 56 percent. Sadly, Supra sales would never recover, even after the introduction of the A90.

1991

For 1991, the saw blade wheels were replaced with a more modern five-spoke alloy wheel. For the first time, the Toyota oval logo was mounted on the front fascia. A total bummer for normally aspirated, open-air Supra fans occurred this year, as the Sport Roof became optional on the Supra Turbo only. Supra buyers were limited to a more traditional steel power sunroof. Sales dipped by almost half again, to 3623 cars in 1991.

1992

Changes were sparse for the final year of A70 production. Look for a dual cupholder in the (super convenient) location under the console lid, so you can knock your Big Gulp out every time you attempt to shift. This last year of A70 production, sales dropped by more than two thirds to 1193.

Before you buy

Rust is a problem to look out for, but it’s all relative. You may think that a Japanese car from the mid-1980s to the early 1990s would be especially prone to rust, but if your reference point for corrosion is something like a Fiat 124, you’re going to be pleasantly surprised. These cars do have areas where rust is an issue, including the tray on the inner fender where the battery sits, the wheel arches, and the weld on the door sill where the rear fender meets the rocker panel. Rust can also be a concern in the spare tire well, specifically due to the rubber seal on the rear hatch. Rust issues also get worse if a car had significant body repair from a collision, but that’s not Supra-specific. For the most part, you don’t see Mk3 Supras with massively blown-out floors, rocker panels, or lower doors.

For a while, the high-pressure side power steering hose was insanely expensive—something like $1000 from Toyota—and now they’re officially “unobtainum” from the factory. Luckily Driftmotion has replacements for reasonable money today. Engine knock sensors will throw Code 52, and the consensus among Supra owners is that it’s almost never the sensor (around $200 to replace) and almost always a frayed wire ($20 to fix). Speaking of wiring, turbo cars especially run hot, and 30-year-old wiring tends to bear the brunt. Speedometers and odometers are known to go funky or stop working altogether. A70s have three components to make the speedometer work: a short cable, a long cable and a driven gear in the cluster. Any and all can fail. The conventional wisdom is to remove the cluster and drive the car and see if the end of the cable turns to diagnose what the issue is.The heat can stop working, and that’s almost always the fault of a bad heater control valve.

These are all minor issues that you’ll find with any used car from the 1990s, and are more of an annoyance than an actual problem. The bigger deal is the dreaded “BHG” or blown head gasket. The issue ostensibly stems from incorrect assembly at the factory, specifically under-torquing the head studs by a factor of 20 to 30 lb-ft. Considering these cars are a minimum of 29 years old, the opportunity to re-torque that head has probably sailed, or the head gasket has already failed and been replaced. However, if you’re looking at a low mileage car that’s never had any engine work, it’s something to look into. The Supra Club of New Zealand has an excellent document detailing the issue, diagnostics, possible fixes and cost estimates.

Valuation

The Hagerty Valuation Team provided some excellent insight on the prices that Mk3 Supras are realizing, but please check here for the latest values. In very general terms, a third-gen Supra Turbo is worth a little more than twice what a normally aspirated Supra costs, regardless of year or condition. An automatic transmission is an automatic 15 percent price drop, whether you’re interested in a Supra or a Supra Turbo.

Prices are way, way up since 2013. A70 Turbos in #2 (Excellent) condition have increased by 212 percent since that time, and are climbing even more strongly than the MkIV cars, which have increased in value by 112 percent during the same time period. That’s a percentage, though. In dollars, the price difference is dramatic. A #2-condition A70 Supra Turbo will cost around $34,000 today. An A90 is going to cost $95,000. Clearly these Supras are from two different planets.

Looking at sales back to 2017, there is definitely an upward trend in Supra values, however, the most expensive A70 sold on Bring A Trailer in the last four years was just $30,250 in January of 2021, a gorgeous red Supra Turbo with a five-speed, a Sport Roof and 71,000 miles. If you factor in the destination charge, that’s only about $750 more than the car sold for when it was new. The bulk of Supra Turbos sold in the last 12 months hover in the $20,000 range. There are some super nice, low-mile, five-speed NA cars selling in the $12,500 range.

The median quoted value on an A70 Supra is $9500. That includes NA cars and Turbos. The quoted value on these cars is up 35 percent over the last five years, and the number of quotes has risen by 28 percent. Demographic data on these cars skews much younger than typical classic cars, which shouldn’t be surprising. Millennials quote 32 percent of the Supras insured by Hagerty, while making up just 19 percent of the classic car market. Gen-X is right behind, quoting 28 percent of Supras, while making up 31 percent of the market. Gen Z—representing just six percent of the entire market—quote 18 percent of Supras. Boomers quote just a bit higher at 19 percent but  represent a comparatively large 38 percent of the total market. Pre-boomers don’t seem to care for these cars much, quoting just three percent of the Supras while making up seven percent of the overall collector car market.

Here’s our general thought: Values for A70 Supras aren’t likely to go anywhere but up. A clean Supra Turbo is going to cost you, but $30K may prove a bargain in the long run. That said, if you want a fast car, you can buy a 2021 Camry that will outgun the fastest A70 Supra ever built. If you can live with an amazingly clean, low-mileage, five-speed naturally aspirated Supra, there are some truly remarkable deals out there.

The post Your handy 1986–93 Toyota Supra (A70) buyer’s guide appeared first on Hagerty Media.

Every country has a car that most represents its pinnacle of automotive production. It doesn’t have to be the fastest car, nor the most numerous in terms of manufacturing volume. The kind of vehicle in question here is one that has endured as a distillation of that country’s design, attitude, or engineering capability—that which makes it wholly unique. In Italy, you might argue that the Fiat 500 deserves this title, but this car, the Alfa Romeo GT Veloce (GTV), makes an exceptionally strong case. Yes, Ferraris, Lamborghinis and Maseratis exist, but nothing captures every single thing that’s perfect about Italian cars like this Alfa. The styling, the handling, the engine performance, the driving position, and the interior quality all represent Alfa’s lasting heritage in masterful fashion.

1967–1969 (Series 1 1750 GTV)

These Alfa Romeos were an evolution of the Giulia Sprint GT and GT Sprint Veloce that were in production since 1963, but the new designation was spurred mostly by the larger engine, and the chassis and body modifications. The 1750 GT Veloce (aka 1750 GTV) debuted alongside the 1750 Berlina sedan and 1750 Spider, representing a new line of vehicles for the Italian manufacturer. At the core of each was the a 1779-cc inline four-cylinder with an 80-mm bore and an 88.5-mm stroke. The increase in displacement represented an almost 10 percent increase in horsepower to 122, affirming the “V” in veloce.

The five-speed gearbox was the same as the Giulia Sprint Veloce, but the rear differential had a steeper 4.10:1 gear ratio. While the numbers might not seem impressive, the contemporary reviews suggested that the improvements offered much more flexible performance. Cars bound for the U.S. all received SPICA fuel injection in a peremptory effort to comply with ever more strict environmental requirements.

The 1750 GT Veloce had a 30-mm wheelbase advantage over its predecessor. Counterintuitively, wheel size was reduced, down to 5.5 x 14-inch from 5 x 15-inch, in order to access a wider selection of better tires at the time. Original equipment tires were either the Pirelli Cinturato or Michelin’s XAS. Suspension revisions included some geometric updates, plus the rear suspension got an anti-roll bar. Larger ATE disc brake rotors and calipers improved stopping performance. At the time, the brake pedal was described to be “tremendously responsive.”

While the 1750 GT Veloce is unmistakably derived from the Giulia GT Sprint Veloce, the styling changed a bit. The stepped hood from the earlier cars was eliminated, and all of the GTVs received 7-inch Carello headlamps outboard, with 5 ¾-inch fog lamps inboard.

Inside, the seats were “bucket shaped, perfectly air-vented and above all, molded to the body in such a way that one is always completely relaxed even at the end of a long journey at speed,” according to the sales brochure. The backrests are adjustable, and the wood-accented dash also improved from the earlier cars thanks to the center console, which housed the water temp, fuel gauge, heat controls and the five-speed gearshift. The tach and speedometer are huge and mounted directly in front of the driver, along with a smaller oil pressure gauge.

There were no major revisions to the 1968 or 1969 model years. In terms of worldwide production figures, in 1967, Alfa Romeo produced a slim 919 1750 GT Veloces. The next year, that number bumped to 10,418. In 1969, Alfa built 8705 of them.

1970–1972 (Series 2 1750 GT Veloce)

1970 introduced the informal “Series 2” 1750 GT Veloce. What’s important to realize is that officially, none were imported to the United States. There was no 1970 model year, instead our allotment of these cars came for the 1971 model year.

Most of the changes between the Series 1 and Series 2 cars were mechanical. The brakes were now a dual circuit design, mostly to comply with NHTSA’s FMVSS 105, which required that braking systems to have a backup in case the primary system failed. The brake and clutch pedals were also redesigned to hang from a pedal box, rather than protrude from the floor. (Note that right-hand-drive 1750 GTVs retained the pedals hinged through the floor because there was no room for a pedal box to clear the carburetors on European cars, and none of those were coming to the U.S. anyway.)

The dash also changed on the Series 2 cars. The later cars have much more pronounced hoods for the main gauges, with four instruments in the console. Unlike most cars of the period, the bumpers on the Series 2 cars were actually sleeker and slimmer, with overriders at the front and rear. North American market Alfas always had turn indicators mounted below the bumper, rather than on top of it. Unfortunately, gigantic marker lights stuck in the front and rear fenders for 1971–72 were also part of the deal.

For 1970, worldwide, Alfa Romeo built 11,542 1750 GTVs. In 1971, that number plummeted to 4639. In 1972, a small handful of 11 cars were built almost by accident.

1970–1974 2000 GT Veloce

The 2000 GT Veloce was introduced yet again with the 2000 Berlina and 2000 Spider, with all sporting a larger 1962-cc engine. The changed is thanks to an increased the bore (84 mm) and retaining the 1750’s 88.5-mm stroke. SPICA fuel injected engines (bound for the U.S.) turned out 130 hp at 5500 rpm.

Inside, the dash is significantly different, with a stylish, hooded cluster of Jaeger gauges in front of the driver, instead being housed in the console. Fuel and water temp were both separate instruments, with warning lights in similar pods underneath. The oil pressure gauge was tucked into the bottom of the tachometer.

Outside, the 2000 GTV received distinct changes from the 1750, including a grille with chromed horizontal bars and a more stylized “heart” outline around the grille badge. Rather than the larger chrome hub caps of the 1750, the 2000 GTV received simple chromed center caps and exposed lug nuts. 2000 GTV customers had the option of replacing the steel wheels with 5 1/2J x 14 alloy Turbina wheels, inspired by the wheels on the Montreal. When the 1750 GTV arrived in the United States in 1971, it had much larger taillamp clusters. The 2000 GTV got these from the get-go, with red turn indicators for U.S.-market cars, and amber for the rest of the world.

By 1975, the 2000 GTV couldn’t meet U.S. safety and emissions requirements, so the last model year sold here was 1974, although a handful of cars with 1974 stamped on the MSO were actually constructed in 1975. There are three such examples listed in this spreadsheet at the Vintage Alfa Romeo Registry. Worldwide, in 1971, Alfa Romeo produced 6700 2000 GTVs. In 1972, that rose to 10,210, a number Alfa would never see again. In 1973, production dropped to 6839. In 1974, just 1432 cars were produced. A small handful of 938 were built in 1975, and a remaining 14 were produced in 1976.

Before you buy

If you’re already an Alfa owner, do yourself a favor and join the Alfa Romeo Owner’s Club and its dozens of local chapters across the country. You’ll find them incredibly helpful.

Now let’s discuss rust. Wolf Steel in Frelighsburg, Quebec, Canada produces just about any replacement panel you could imagine, but in a story with Hemmings Sports & Exotic Car in 2013, the company’s own Robin Wilkinson issued the warning “These cars eat themselves from the inside out.” That said, Wolf Steel makes replacement panels for just about everything from the beltline down, and replacement panels are surprisingly affordable. Too bad that paying someone to weld them in place is not.

Spotted an Alfa that’s rusted where the trailing arms mount to the underbody? Just walk away. Lower valences and radiator supports are prone to rust, as are the bottoms of the doors, the bottoms of the A-pillars and and the spare tire well in the trunk. All of the normal cautions are relevant to these cars: pull the carpets up and look around the drain plugs, inspect the rockers, check the corners of the front windshield.

And about that windshield: There are two. One is held in with a gasket. The other is held in place with urethane, with a set of moldings that cover the edges. The gasketed windshield is relatively available, though you’re going to hunt for it. The glued-in windshield is much more difficult to find.

Italian cars from this era have a bad reputation for electrical issues, but it’s almost always down to two things: Bad grounds and ham-fisted repairs. A bunch of wires hanging under the dash is a good sign that you’ll probably have to spend some time sorting the wiring before the smoke escapes.

Check the engine numbers: 00548 signifies a 1750 GTV engine, while 00512 is a 2000. Five decades on, these engines were swapped back and forth all over the place, so it’s good to know what you’re looking at. The good news regarding the engines is that if you live anywhere with a moderate population, there’s a decent chance an Alfa specialist can be found within an hour’s drive. Parts are available, and in general, these are strong power plants.

It appears that approximately 100 percent of these cars will crunch on a 1-2 upshift, especially when the gear oil is cold. Unless you’re planning to do more work—a full rebuild, a clutch, etc.—the general advice is to shift more deliberately. If the gearbox pops out of reverse or any gear, you’re in for more work. Giubos, or flex discs—from the Italian portmanteau “giunto Boschi” or “Boschi joint”—on the driveshaft had pluses (anti-vibration) and minuses (cracks), so check the condition of the rubber. They’re available and the internet is awash with instructions on how they’re replaced. (Often misspelled as “guibo.”)

The suspension is fairly conventional and straightforward, and will always improve with an application of new/better parts. The four-wheel disc brakes have a vacuum booster with a rubber diaphragm that can deteriorate and allow brake fluid into the intake manifold, which will make you think your engine is in need of a rebuild.

Valuation

According to our colleagues on the Hagerty Valuation Team, 2000 GTVs are actually worth a bit less than the 1750 cars. (Please check here for the latest data available.) The value on these cars was pretty flat for quite some time, and then ignited in 2016. The difference in price between a 2000 GTV in 2016 and 2021 is 118 percent. The 1750 GTV jumped 159 percent in the same time period. And these were not cheap cars to begin with.

Even cars purchased two years ago have made serious money. One example sold on Bring A Trailer for $57,750 in 2019, and sold in February for $81,375.

The median quoted agreed value for these cars is currently $34,000. That represents an increase of 34 percent over the last five years. The number of quotes on these cars has increased by three percent. Pre-boomers quoted 8 percent of GTVs while making up an almost identical seven percent of the market. Boomers and Gen-Xers are the heart of the market. Boomers quoted 45 percent of GTVs while making up 38 percent of the market. Gen-Xers quote 32 percent of GTVs with an equal share of the market. Millennials quote 10 percent of GTVs while making up 19 percent of the overall collector market. Gen-Zers quote five percent of GTVs while making up 6 percent of the market.

The conventional wisdom here is that if you want one of these Alfas, you should’ve bought one ten years ago. However, prices have gone up exponentially in the last decade, and there was a time where people said that same thing about early Broncos, early 911s, and early BMW M3s. They kept climbing anyway. These timeless Alfa sports cars are well-established among Italian car fans, so if you’re expecting the price to go down, you’re going to be disappointed. If you swing it, don’t wait unless it’s to settle on the best example you can afford.

The post Your handy 1967–77 Alfa Romeo GTV buyer’s guide appeared first on Hagerty Media.

Throughout his career, Volvo’s chief designer, Jan Wilgaard, insisted that functional, sensible designs are the best looking. And there was no more functional, sensible design than the 240. It was the Earth Shoe of automobiles. Nearly 30 years after it ceased production, when you think of “Volvo,” the profile of this car is probably what comes to mind.

The Volvo 240 had evolutionary changes throughout its run, but Volvo sold more than 2.6 million units to an enthusiastic, overwhelmingly satisfied, worldwide audience that apparently had no interest in seeing these cars significantly change. When the 700 Series arrived in 1983, it was supposed to replace the 240, but Volvo sold more that year than it ever had before. As a tribute to its longevity, the 240 Series managed to outlive its presumptive successor by a year.

In this buyer’s guide, we’re going to talk about cars that were intended for the American market. That means “American,” not “North American,” because even the Canadian cars were slightly different. Early Canadian 240s, for example, had carburetors, while all American 240s were fuel-injected from the get-go.

Regarding production numbers: We have production figures from Volvo, via the Volvo Owner’s Club, but they’re suspect. “Many of the production figures shown, especially for the early years, are of doubtful accuracy,” reads the caveat on the Volvo Owner’s Club page. “Some give the intended output, while others indicate the number of cars believed to have been built, and the remainder represent the true production level.”

Model Overview

1975

Launched in the fall of 1974, the 240 was the natural evolution of the successful 140 Series, a compact, unibody, executive-car platform that you could squint and easily mistake for a 240. But while the exterior styling was certainly derivative of the car it was replacing, the focus on occupant safety was not. The early mission at Volvo was direct: Build a car that occupants could count on to help them survive a head-on crash into a solid barrier at 50 miles per hour.

Not everything made it to the 240, but the Volvo Experimental Safety Car (VESC) shown in Geneva in 1972 had undeniable influence. Even into the early 1980s, most other cars were designed to resist impact, not to absorb it. But the 240 was designed to collapse in a crash, absorbing energy before it could reach the passengers, rather than rattling them around inside. Not only were there self-adjusting, three-point safety belts, they were standard for all four outboard seating positions.

There were three body styles available: a two-door sedan (242), a four-door sedan (244), and a wagon (245), and each was available in two trims, DL and GL. The DL had cloth interior, if you got the 242 or 244, but the 245 got more rugged vinyl. Manual steering was standard on the 242 and 244 with the manual transmission. You received standard power steering in the DL if you chose the wagon. By comparison, the GL was a well-equipped car, with metallic paint, wheel trim, a manually-operated steel sunroof, a sportier steering wheel, a tachometer, power steering, and overdrive on the manual transmission.

No matter which 240 Series you purchased, you got the same engine from the 140: a pushrod 2.0-liter B20F with 8.7:1 compression and Bosch K-Jetronic fuel injection. With its U.S.-mandated catalytic converter, it put out 98 horsepower at 6000 rpm, and 110 lb-ft of torque at 3500 rpm. From a stop, you’d hit 60 miles per hour in a torpid 16.5 seconds. The quarter mile oozed past in 19.7 seconds. It’s a testament to the durability and charm that a car this painfully slow would be so universally loved almost 50 years after its introduction.

The base transmission was a Köping Engineering M40, manufactured for Volvo. The 242 and 244 GLs got the M41, the same transmission with an electrically operated overdrive, engaged via a switch on the top of the gearshift. The optional automatic was a Borg-Warner 55. The rear differential was an incredibly stout Dana 30, renamed 1030 in Volvo nomenclature. Final drive ratios were all over the map, literally, based on which country the 240 was sold and whether an automatic had been ordered. The most common ratio was 3.73.

Volvo had a reputation for building the best automotive seats available, but the 240’s seats went well beyond the norm, and that fact was evident in Volvo’s marketing. In the brochure, the effusive prose about the seats went on for two pages, while the engine barely rated a page and a half, and most of that was taken up with pictures. In most cars in 1974, you got fore and aft movement. In the 240, you were afforded a reclining backrest, adjustable lumbar supports, and two inches of movement up and down for greater legroom.

“The entire Volvo interior is designed to keep you and your passengers safe, comfortable, and free from fatigue,” the brochure reads. “Safety comes first, with comfort a close second.” It highlighted an interior with legible gauges and intuitive controls that kept your eyes focused on the driving. Air conditioning was an option and used the same vents and controls as non-A/C cars.

The front suspension featured McPherson struts with coil springs and a stabilizer bar. The rear was as conventional as it got: a solid axle on coil springs with longitudinal control arms and a track rod. The sedans had the benefit of a stabilizer bar. All of the attention in the steering department went to the five ways in which the column was intended not to impale the driver, but it also actuated a rack and pinion steering system. The steering was power assisted if you bought a GL or a wagon, or if you bought a 242 or 244 with an automatic transmission. Each corner had a disc brake, operated by a dual-circuit hydraulic system that operated both front and one rear disc in case one of the channels failed, known as the “safety triangle split system.” The parking brake mechanically operated a pair of separate drum brakes.

In 1975, Volvo sold 53,804 242 two-door sedans, 82,976 244 four-door sedans, and 54,709 245 wagons, worldwide.

1976

Just a year out of the gate, Volvo was already offering American executive-sedan buyers a brand new engine. The old pushrod B20F gave way to the all-new, Redblock overhead cam B21F, a slant four-cylinder engine that set the course for Volvo for the better part of the next two decades. These engines featured electronic ignition and an aluminum crossflow cylinder head with a single camshaft driven off the front of the crank by a toothed belt. That belt turns an intermediate shaft, which then drives the distributor and oil pump. The manual transmission was upgraded to the slightly-more-durable Köping M45 four-speed and M46 four-speed with overdrive.

The options list expanded to include power front windows, a roof rack, and a reverse-facing, folding third row seat for the 245 wagon. In 1976, Volvo sold 45,144 242 two-door sedans, 90,736 244 four-door sedans, and 60,640 245 wagons.

1977

There’s little in the way of major changes for the 1977 Volvo 240, but it was Volvo’s 50th anniversary. It went all-out with a 20-page brochure heralding the event, and buyers in some markets (not the U.S., unfortunately) could purchase a Jubilee Edition 240 to mark the occasion. In 1977, Volvo sold 23,215 242 two-door sedans, 100,055 244 four-door sedans, and 48,485 245 wagons.

1978

Keep an eye on the headlamps for this year. While 1976 introduced the quad round 5 1/4-inch sealed beam headlamps for U.S.-spec six-cylinder cars, the 242/244/245 cars maintained round 7-inch lamps in all trims and body styles up until 1978. In ’78, if you bought a 242, you got dual round 7-inch lamps. If you purchased a 244 or a 245, you got the 5 1/4-inch quad lamps like the six-cylinder cars.

The 242 GT arrived in 1978. It was a bigger deal outside the U.S. because it got a higher-compression engine. Also, all U.S.-spec GTs were Mystic Silver metallic with black and red stripes supplied by 3M. The interior featured black corduroy cloth upholstery with red stripes, a red stripe on the dash, a sportier steering wheel, and a tachometer mounted front and center in the instrument cluster. For the first time in a Volvo, the headliner was black. The suspension had a few tweaks, with a thicker front stabilizer bar and 30-percent stiffer springs than a DL, allowing the car to swap from being prone to understeer to prone to oversteer.

Fog lights were grafted into the GT’s grille, a chin spoiler showed up under the bumper, and all of the exterior details that were normally chrome shifted to black (bumpers, window trim, mirrors). Alloy wheels were standard. In 1978, Volvo sold 19,230 242 two-door sedans, 89,685 244 four-door sedans, and 47,490 245 wagons.

1979

For 1979, the rest of the world saw a fully facelifted 240. Here, the nose did change slightly; in all but the 242, the plain flat hood was replaced by a “coffin hood,” so called because of its distinct contour lines, but the U.S.-spec headlamp configuration really put a damper on how drastically the 240’s visage was going to change. The more pronounced revisions to U.S. cars were in the rear, with the addition of wraparound taillamp clusters, which changed the car’s look. For the 1979 model year, Volvo sold 23,445 242 two-door sedans, 117,855 244 four-door sedans, and 53,430 245 wagons.

1980

For most of the Volvo trim levels, not much changed for the 1980 model year. Side mirror housings were now black plastic, rather than chrome. There’s a new steel wheel with wider slot openings than the previous wheels, and the GT—in its final year—got the cooler-looking Virgo five-spoke alloy wheels, which eventually made their way to all of Volvo’s 240-based sporty cars. The 1980 brochure calls out child-proof rear door locks, a vanity mirror, a light integrity sensor, and central door locking on all except the 242. For the 1980 model year, Volvo sold 22,145 242 two-door sedans, 106,012 244 four-door sedans, and 51,742 245 wagons.

1981

For 1981, all of the Volvo 200 Series (including the six-cylinder cars) received the same quad rectangular headlamp setup and chrome grille. The GT was gone, replaced by the GLT trim. You could buy a GLT in any Volvo body configuration—242, 244 or 245—and it included Pirelli P6 tires, stiffer spring rates, gas-filled shocks, front and rear stabilizer bars and the Virgo five-spoke alloys, a front spoiler, and unique leather upholstery.

One more step up the ladder was the GLT Turbo, which was only available on the 242 and 244. With the addition of the Garrett T3 turbocharger, horsepower only increased to 127, and torque only rose to 150, but this was still a 30 percent increase. GLT Turbos had a boost gauge, oil pressure and volt gauges, unique seats with plush velour upholstery, power windows, air conditioning, a sliding sunroof with a wind deflector, and dual power mirrors. All Turbos featured the Aisin-Warner 71 four-speed automatic. U.S.-bound Turbos had overdrive, but no lockup torque converter.

As if to pay penance for the sin of 125 hp, Volvo also offered the B21F MPG engine in the 242 DL only, which rolled back the clock to a time when the pushrod B18 only put out 98 hp. If you chose to dampen your spirits further with an automatic transmission, the 240 switched to the Borg-Warner or Aisin-Warner 55.

Finally for 1981: “Move over General Motors, Diesel Volvos are here.” While it ate up two pages in the brochure, the Diesel wasn’t able to be federalized in 1980, so none were actually delivered that year. For the 1981 model year, Volvo sold 17,809 242 two-door sedans, 94,111 244 four-door sedans, and 50,352 245 wagons.

1982

For 1982, the sole engine for the GLT wagon was now the Turbo. Also, 240-series cars other than the Turbo equipped with automatic transmissions shifted to the Aisin-Warner 70, which had an overdrive. For the 1982 model year, Volvo sold 17,049 242 two-door sedans, 126,696 244 four-door sedans, and 66,194 245 wagons.

1983

Trim levels simplified for the 1983 model year: DL, GL, Turbo. The DL and Turbo were available in all three body styles. The GL, in only the four-door sedan and wagon, and with either the gas or diesel engines, with no mechanical changes. Volvo also introduced the B23F, with slightly higher compression for a boost to 114 hp. For the 1983 model year, Volvo sold 12,893 242 two-door sedans, 125,639 244 four-door sedans, and 71,295 245 wagons.

1984

The major change for this Orwellian model year was the elimination of the two-door sedan. It had been relegated to entry-level status in the DL line, and after 1984, it was out of the picture entirely. Front and rear bumpers became more streamlined across the range. The big news for Volvo was—finally, after a decade—another car. The 740 debuted, and while you might think it spelled the end for Volvo’s oldest car, it sold more 240s in 1984 than at any point in its history. For the 1984 model year, Volvo sold 133,104 244 four-door sedans and 85,729 245 wagons.

1985–93

The B230F (and with it the turbocharged FT, but in cars other than the 240) arrived in 1985. With Bosch LH 2.2-Jetronic fuel injection and 9.8:1 compression, the B230F wasn’t more powerful than the B23F, but that changed when you put a turbo on it. Unfortunately, that wasn’t in the cards for the 240. But with that bit of good news, you could really start to see the end for the 240, although it would take years to happen. The Diesel? The Turbo? Both were kaput after 1985. What was left were the DL and GL, in both four-door and wagon form.

The M47, a true five-speed manual transmission, replaced the M46 in 1987. In 1988, the B230F underwent some revisions to resolve a piston slap issue. These engines have a “K” cast into the block, but only for 1988 and ’89 model years. They also have provisions for oil squirters, but the squirters themselves didn’t appear in these engines until 1993, leading to a lot of confusion among backyard Volvo power builders.

Between 1985 and ’93, Volvo built 342,584 244 four-door sedans and 242,666 245 wagons. A couple of interesting notes about those numbers: Volume really didn’t taper until 1990–91, partly because of a recession that hurt auto sales across the board. Second, in the last three years of production, wagon sales either tied or outpaced sedan sales, in the final year by a gap larger than 2:1.

Before you buy

Rust is going to be the big issue, especially if you want an older 240. Check the obvious areas (rocker panels, wheel arches, floors), but rust can be highly specific to different years of the 240. The 1974–76 cars will rust badly on the front fenders behind the turn-signal lamps, because inner splash shields weren’t installed to protect these areas until 1977.

The hood, battery box, radiator core support, and firewall are all prone to rust. The three-part rocker panels are known rust offenders, as are the rear wheel arches. The pinch weld that forms the windshield and backlight openings are susceptible to rust, and the gasket and trim will hide it. The rear window opening on the wagons, in particular, can rust badly. In the cargo area of both sedans and wagons, check the covered recessed areas on either side (known affectionately as “butt cheeks”), which often hold water. Blocked drain holes in the doors can cause the door bottoms to rot. Things got better around 1987 and 88, when the entire body (except for the roof panel) was galvanized. They’ll still rust, especially if they’ve been in an accident, but galvanizing definitely helped to hold it off.

The only weak point on the early B20 engines is the timing gear, which was made of Novotext (essentially Bakelite with cotton fiber reinforcement.) The gears themselves were acceptable, but they separated from their steel hub, causing an obvious issue, although not catastrophic since these were non-interference engines. Replacement steel gears are available in the aftermarket.

Regarding the Redblock engines, look for all the normal internal combustion engine issues, but these are some of the most reliable engines ever built. At this point the only thing to consider is that they’re old and simply worn out. Unless you’re sold on buying one of the earliest cars, there’s hardly any reason not to buy one past the galvanization era, with the B230F engine that appeared in 1985. The Bosch LH 2.2-Jetronic fuel injection has the advantage of parts availability, which is dwindling for K-Jetronic and getting even more difficult for D-Jetronic in the earliest 240s.

M40/M41 and M45/M46 manual gearboxes suffered failures with stock power. If you’re building a 240 with better than that, consider a Getrag or Tremec swap for its future. The BW35 and 55 and Aisin-Warner 70 are all fairly stout and won’t cost a fortune to rebuild. As with all automatic transmissions, introduction of antifreeze through the transmission cooler will kill them.

The Achilles heel in the 240s built between 1980 and ’87 was the engine wiring harness. They’re all bad. They will eventually fall apart from engine heat. The insulation simply crumbles off the wire, leaving all the electricity to run out on the floor. Look at one or both of the gray 8-pole connectors near the firewall or on wires going to or near the alternator, and it’ll tell you if the insulation has failed yet. Dave Barton at Prancing Moose sells replacements—and provides a lot of great information for free—for around $230.

Valuation

Our teammates with the Hagerty Valuation Team don’t include these cars in the Hagerty Price Guide yet, but they still have significant insight into current values. Quality examples get harder to find with each passing year, despite the fact that Volvo built them by the hundreds of thousands each model year.

At this writing, there’s exactly one Volvo 240 on BringATrailer.com, a very clean 1993 240 wagon, with A/C, heated seats, and a Pioneer audio system. It’s bid up to $10,250 with two days to go. Over the last year, the sweet spot seems to hover right at that price point. Between $9000 and $11,000 would net you an early 1980s DL in any body style, all in rust-free condition. The outliers include a 1983 242 Turbo, claimed to be one of 500 flat-hood cars built for Group-A homologation, at $20,000 at the top, and a clean 240 DL with 130,000 miles and a Southwest history that sold for just $5000 at the bottom.

The Valuation Team notes that the average value quoted by Hagerty for all Volvo 240s is $5957. The appeal for these cars stretches across almost all generations, which isn’t surprising because Volvo started building 240s around the time of the first talkies. Boomers quoted 34 percent of the 240s last year, and Gen X wasn’t far behind at 29 percent. Millennials and Gen Z together quoted 31 percent of the 240s last year. Only Pre-boomers have a passing interest in Volvo 240s, requesting just six percent of the quotes last year.

Volvo 240s have always said something about their owners. It used to be “I’m a college professor in Vermont, like tweed, and smoke a pipe.” But over the years, these cars have become appealing to a wide range of enthusiasts who appreciate form dictated by function. “It might be because the car is a little square and sluggish, just like the Swedes themselves,” its designer, Jan Wilgaard, said. He’s not wrong.

The post Your handy 1975–93 Volvo 240 buyer’s guide appeared first on Hagerty Media.

Search the internet for “greatest engines of all time,” and you’ll turn up the usual suspects: Chevy small-block, VW flat-four, Porsche flat-six, street Hemi. Aside from three years on Ward’s 10 Best Engines list, the Buick V-6 never makes the leaderboard, but it should. Over a span of 46 years, GM built 25 million of these engines. The six-cylinder eventually earned two pole positions and one third-place finish at the Brickyard, and it powered three Indianapolis 500 pace cars.

Its story started with the aluminum V-8. Buick became the first American manufacturer to develop an aluminum block for a mass-produced V-8 with the Fireball, a 215-cubic-inch mill boasting 155 hp and 220 lb-ft. of torque equipped with a Rochester 2CG, and 185 hp and 230 lb-ft of torque with a four-barrel carb. It was a great little engine, especially for the fuel-conscious, but the era of bigger, faster, and burlier V-8s was dawning. An aluminum V-8 of that size wasn’t going to propel a Skylark to the kind of speeds that Chevrolet could realize even with its small-block V-8s. Neither was Buick’s V-8 a worthy challenger to Oldsmobile’s 330-cubic-inch high-compression Jetfire Rocket. Plus, the aluminum 215 was expensive to build. By 1965 Buick had sold off the design to Rover for use in vehicles better suited to its size and power output.

However, Buick’s 215 V-8 laid the groundwork for another engine built from a less advanced material: The 198-cubic-inch Fireball V-6. “They were looking at designs from Lancia,” says Bill Baylis, who specialized in building Buick racing engines at Baybury Farm Buicks in Corinth, Vermont. “But the Lancia had a narrow 60-degree angle between the V. Because [Buick] used the same design from the 215, the Fireball V-6 has a 90-degree V.”

V-8s do have an advantage over V-6s: balance. A four-stroke engine requires a total firing interval of 720 degrees, divided by the number of cylinders. A V-8 evenly divides that 720-degree cycle with a 90-degree firing interval per cylinder, meaning that the engine inherently balances itself each time a cylinder fires. The Fireball V-6, on the other hand, has an odd firing interval of 90 degrees and 150 degrees. “The motor mounts in an odd-fire V-6 really act to absorb a lot of the vibrations that the engine produces,” says Baylis.

Still, Buick’s V-6 had its own advantages. A fully dressed 216-cubic-inch Chevy inline-six tipped the scales around 650 pounds. The 198-cubic-inch Fireball V-6 from Buick was more than 200 pounds lighter. For the compact, economy-size vehicles that these engines would power circa 1962, the Fireball V-6 was the clear winner.

Even as it found an eager buyer for the aluminum V-8 in Rover, Buick was developing a more conventional replacement for its lightweight V-8. To maximize the development investment, the Fireball V-6 grew to 225 cubic inches, utilizing components and tooling from the 300-cubic-inch version of Buick’s own line of small-block V-8s.

Right at that moment, Kaiser was desperate to find new power for the CJ5, which had been soldiering on with the same Hurricane four it had used for the last decade and a half. The Hurricane was perfectly adequate for a vehicle as light as the CJ, but Kaiser Jeep had also introduced the more refined (read: heavier) Jeepster Commando in 1966 as a competitor to both the Bronco and the Scout, which were both offering V-8s by 1967.

Enter the Buick V-6, which Kaiser Jeep purchased outright from Buick for 1966, and rebadged as the Dauntless V-6. The 150 hp and 235 lb-ft of torque provided by the Dauntless bought the manufacturer some time until Jeep developed its own six-cylinder and V-8.

What transpired in 1974 sounds like the kind of apocryphal stories about how [insert guitar hero here] invented distortion by sticking knitting needles in his amp, but this comes straight from the horse’s mouth courtesy of Automotive News. Cliff Studaker, Buick’s assistant chief engineer, told the publication how the Apollo ended up with a V-6 thanks to a panicked call from his boss, chief engineer Phil Bowser. “Phil wanted to know where the V-6 equipment was and whether we had any engines we could evaluate,” says Studaker.

Studaker ended up locating an old Fireball V-6 at a Flint salvage yard. “Without hesitating, we rebuilt the engine with new parts and installed it in an Apollo, the smallest car Buick was building at the time,” Studaker says. “When my boss returned, he told Cole that the car we had assembled with the V-6 could be part of the solution to our fuel-economy concerns. Three days later, Cole called to say he wanted to drive the Apollo.”

“The usual procedure was to hop in the car and drive a few blocks around Detroit,” Studaker says, but Cole and Studaker “left the executive garage and headed south on I-75 passing every car on the road.” Cole was on a mission. “I had no idea where we were going until we arrived at the Jeep plant in Toledo,” says Studaker. “Managers there showed us V-6 tooling that had been mothballed for years.”

Buick bought back the entire manufacturing line back from AMC and began to ramp up production at record pace. “We worked through the 1974 Christmas holidays,” Studaker recalls. “GM’s manufacturing people hauled the engine line from Toledo to Flint and reinstalled it on exactly the same footings from which it had been removed seven years earlier.” Just 137 days after Buick agreed to buy back the engine line, it had the odd-fire V-6 installed in five cars: the Skyhawk, Apollo, Skylark, Century, and Regal, and then in the LeSabre in ’76. “Thanks to the V-6, we scored at the top of our classes in 1974 EPA fuel economy ratings,” adds Studaker.

“In 1977, Buick redesigned the engine internals to fire at an even 120 degrees and it smoothed the engine out considerably,” says Bill Baylis. Buick introduced a new split-pin crank that transformed the odd-fire order into an even-fire one, producing a butter-smooth idle. In the Bicentennial Indy 500, Buick delivered a Century pace car with a turbocharged 3.8-liter V-6 with 306 hp, pointing the way forward not only for V-6s, but for turbocharging in American cars.

For both 1960s Buick and Jeep collectors and enthusiasts, the Fireball and Dauntless engines are almost footnotes. All the attention goes to V-8-powered Buicks and inline-six-powered Jeeps; but those powerplants trace their ancestry directly to one of the most successful engines in American automotive history.

The post How Buick’s Fireball V-6 birthed one of the most successful engines in history  appeared first on Hagerty Media.

After more than a 120 years of constant improvement in car building, it’s easy to look at the XK120 and think “What a sweet old car,” the wistful way you’d look at a Curved Dash Olds or a Benz Patent-Motorwagen. Don’t make the mistake of confusing this glorious Jag for some dusty relic. When it was introduced at the 1948 London Motorfair at Earls Court, the XK120 was a revelation. This was a revolutionary sports car—not only in terms of design, but also technology—capable of hauling itself, a driver and a passenger to 120 miles per hour. At the time, that was faster than any human had gone in any car.

Model Overview

1949

We’re not going to spend a ton of time on the XK120’s development, because some of the world’s most noted automotive historians have written entire books on the subject. Let’s sketch out the basic details of the prototype from 1948, though, because this was a concept car that accidentally made it to wide-scale production, in a form that was almost identical to the car on the turntable.

The start was the XK engine, a 3.4-liter dual-overhead-cam, inline six-cylinder, twin SU H6-carbureted monster mated to a four-speed Moss gearbox. The 160-hp engine had been in stages of development in one form or another since 1944, beginning with the four-cylinder pushrod XG engine. DOHC engines weren’t exactly new at this point, having arrived in some limited production in 1926 and used throughout the 1930s, but they were at the time restricted to exclusive, low-production cars like the Stutz DV-32, or the Duesenberg Model J.

The frame was donated by the Jaguar Mark V, shortened and narrowed, and equipped with a double wishbone front suspension with torsion bars, and a live rear axle suspended by leaf springs. Brakes were drums all around and would stay that way throughout the XK120 production run. The steering was a manual worm and nut box with an enormous wheel set close to the driver’s chest.

The Jaguar XK engine was intended to power a luxurious saloon car (sedan). But while the engine was ready in 1948, the Mark VII wasn’t, and it wouldn’t be until the 1950 model year. With the 1948 Earl’s Court show looming just two months away, Jaguar’s famously autocratic co-founder and lead designer, William Lyons, penned the shape of a new sports car in just four weeks. Using the design, engineers modified a Jaguar Mark V chassis, draped it in some of the most sinuous bodywork ever produced and packed the Jaguar XK120 Super Sport off to the event.

The bodywork on the prototype and the very first XK120s was aluminum skin over an ash framework, but that was when the plan was to build just 200 cars in total. The public’s reaction disabused everyone at Jaguar of that game plan. With a price of £999 (Adjusted for inflation, about £37,150 or $51,000, about 1.5 times the price of a Cadillac Series 62), the Jaguar was expensive, but not Duesenberg expensive. All of the 242 alloy cars produced between 1949 and 1950 were built at the Holbrook Lane facility in Coventry, U.K.

Initially, there was one body style: the Open Two-Seater, or OTS in the U.K., and informally “Roadster” here. No roof. No windows. A cutdown windscreen. Hope for good weather. For a car that was half again as expensive as a Cadillac, they were not luxurious inside. The seats were nicely upholstered in leather, but the door panels were lightly upholstered card stock, and the dash wasn’t much more elaborate. The XK120 featured a full array of clocks from Smiths, dominated by a 140-mph speedometer and a 6000-rpm tachometer.

The “XK” part made sense at the 1948 show, being named for the XK engine it packed under its long bonnet. But at the time of the show in October that year, the “120”— named for the speed in mph the car could attain—was just a guess. The car wouldn’t actually achieve a speed of 126.448 miles per hour, a production car record, for another seven months.

Nevertheless, the Jaguar XK120 prototype caused a literal sensation across the globe, and led to the first example delivered in the United States going famously to Clark Gable. According to chassis numbers at the Jaguar Heritage Trust, which keeps intricate records of production, a total of 27 right hand drive Roadsters and 70 left-hand-drive examples were produced.

1950

If Jaguar was going to actually ramp up to full-scale production, steel was the way it was going to happen, and in the 1950 model year, the production began to shift to steel sheetmetal wrapped over an ash framework. That shift, combined with the increased production, were the big revisions for 1950. The Jaguar Heritage Trust shows that for 1950, Jaguar produced 490 right-hand drive Roadsters and 1,025 left-hand drive Roadsters.

1951

The XK120 Fixed Head Coupé (FHC) arrives for the 1951 model year. These were intended to be much more practical automobiles, and with the exception of two right-hand-drive cars, they were all headed to the export market.

The FHC debuted in March of 1951 at the Geneva Auto Show. Unlike the Spartan XK120 Roadster, the FHC began to play the luxury angle along with the practicality of an enclosed passenger compartment with a fixed roof and roll-up windows. Instead of a simply upholstered dash, the FHC driver stared at a gorgeously figured slab of walnut. It was a gentleman’s club on wheels.

The XK120’s bodywork, by the way, isn’t just a Roadster with a roof hastily grafted on top. The Roadster’s windscreen is supported by chrome uprights bolted to the bulkhead, while the FHC has an A-pillar molded to the cowl. The roof is an almost egg-shaped pod that not only covers the passenger compartment, but also provides some cargo room on a package shelf behind the seats—at least large enough for a lapdog and a handbag. Along with the winding windows, FHC drivers got a pair of triangular vent windows, fixed quarter windows and a letter-slot sized backlight. The doors had chrome exterior handles.

1951 also introduced the “SE” specification XK120, via Service Bulletin 95A. Along with wire wheels for better brake cooling, SE cars boosted horsepower to 180 at 5300 rpm with higher lift cams and dual exhaust pipes. The same service bulletin also announced that Jaguar would offer a close-ratio gearbox for competition use,

According to the Jaguar Heritage Trust, for 1951 Jaguar built 434 right-hand drive Roadsters, 699 left-hand drive Roadsters, 2 right-hand drive Fixed Head Coupés, and 214 left-hand drive Fixed Head Coupés.

1952

1952 essentially carried on with no major changes from the 1951 model year. But it was the busiest year yet for XK120 production. The Jaguar Heritage Trust shows for 1952: 110 right-hand drive Roadsters, 1592 left-hand drive Roadsters, 1 right-hand drive Fixed Head Coupé, and 1356 left-hand drive Fixed Head Coupés.

1953

This model year introduced another all-new model, the XK120 Drop Head Coupé or DHC. The DHC sought to split the difference between the sheer exhilaration of the open-top motoring and the practicality of a roof and good windows.

Like the FHC, the DHC has a true A-pillar, rather than bolt-on windscreen uprights. Similarly, the doors were shared with the XK120 FHC, with chrome exterior door handles, winding windows and pivoting vent windows. In place of the hard roof is a folding canvas top, lined for warmth and noise reduction inside. And similar to the XK120 FHC, there’s a small package shelf behind the seats. Buyers also got the more luxurious walnut dashboard in the Drop Head Coupé.

Beginning in 1953, agents and dealers could build their own version of an SE (or an M for “Modified” XK120 in the US), with a C-Type head, and larger twin SU H8 carburetors for a boost to 210 hp. Simultaneously, with some head and manifold work at the dealership, the C Type head and twin Weber DCOE carbs could bring the horsepower figure to 220.

Jaguar Heritage Trust records for 1952 show 107 right-hand-drive Roadsters, 1202 left-hand-drive Roadsters, 106 right-hand drive Fixed Head Coupés, 736 left-hand-drive Fixed Head Coupés, 167 right-hand-drive Drop Head Coupés, and 101 left-hand-drive Drop Head Coupés.

1954

By August of 1954, XK120 production had ceased to make way for the all-new XK140. There were no major changes for the 1954 model year. The Jaguar Heritage Trust shows for 1952, Jaguar produced: 22 right-hand-drive Roadsters, 1846 left-hand-drive Roadsters, 83 right-hand-drive Fixed Head Coupés, 176 left-hand-drive Fixed Head Coupés, 126 right-hand-drive Drop Head Coupés, and 369 left-hand-drive Drop Head Coupés.

Before you buy

This may come as a shock, but with a British car made of thin steel sheetmetal over ash framework, you need to be aware of rust. Everywhere. In the fenders, around the headlight buckets, on the frame, in the door pillars, etc. If you’re one of the well-heeled who might be interested in an alloy-bodied car, don’t think those are totally immune from corrosion, either.

On the plus side of the ledger, these are body-on-frame cars, and for the purposes of restoration, that’s “easier” than a monocoque. Regardless, it’s imperative to get a prospective XK120 on a lift not just to see what’s underneath, but to see if the doors will open and close while it’s up there. If they won’t, you’ve got a car that’s going to require significant work in the near future. The number of cars with original paint have to be in the ones and twos at this point, if they exist at all. Despite their age and value, a good number of people still use these cars regularly, and you’ll see examples (like the one in our video) with visible bubbling. Sketchy paint is also worth noting.

Thousands of these cars had their plain steel wheels and center caps jettisoned in favor of the wire wheels that were part of the SE models, to the point where you hardly see the steel wheels. That’s too bad, because despite the nominally better brake cooling offered by the wire wheels, the body-color steelies look great.

XK120s were hand-fitted vehicles at the factory, which means each unit is a bit on the unique side. If you’re embarking on your first restoration, maybe consider a Camaro or a Spitfire before you work you way up to something like this. Lucas electrics get a bad rap, but this is about the simplest electrical system in an automobile. The problem now is the age. Even cars that had their wiring sorted in the 1980s are going to be riding around with 35-year-old wiring. Don’t be surprised if it needs attention.

Like the electrical system, the engines have likely seen rebuilds and upgrades over the years to cure front and rear main seal leaks and corroded head gaskets. Older restorations are probably ready for their second major overhauls at this point, but XK120s that were restored 30 to 40 years ago probably didn’t get used the way they did when they were new.

The big issues to address—if they haven’t been already—are related to cooling. You’ll need an aluminum radiator and an electric fan. That’s pretty much mandatory if you choose to drive one. If your intended car is to be trailered everywhere, you’ll probably opt for authenticity rather than functionality. Similarly, a driver XK120 will benefit from an electric fuel pump and an electronic ignition conversion from a supplier like Pertronix.

A boatload of these cars have had five-speed conversions now, because the Moss ‘boxes are getting old. There are folks like Quantum Mechanics Ltd. in Connecticut that specialize in rebuilding the Moss gearbox, so you can always investigate that route. Early XK120s used ENV-type differentials, which are often converted to later Salisbury units. From 1952 forward on, the XK120 used the Salisbury 2HA differential, which is generally stout. Major parts are getting scarce, though, and it’s not surprising to see that differential swapped with something from Dana.

Don’t be surprised to find XK120s with power steering upgrades, especially if they were driven often. The dinner table-sized steering wheel helps, but it definitely still requires effort to turn unassisted at low speeds.

Valuation

It should be pretty obvious that the initial handful of alloy Roadsters are dramatically more expensive than the steel-bodied cars. The Hagerty Valuation team says that these versions generally carry a price tag over twice as much as the next most expensive body style, but please check here for the most up to date values.

Despite being more rare, the Drop Head Coupés generally trade for about the same as the Roadster. If you could compare this car to something in a stock portfolio, the XK120 would be IBM, experiencing some ups and downs over the years, but with minor fluctuations over the long run . A #2-condition (Excellent) SE that might have traded for $137,000 in 2009 probably peaks at $138,000 today.

SE cars aren’t dramatically more expensive than a standard XK120. A 1952 XK120 in #2 condition hovers around $130,000. Is the 20 hp worth $8000? The highest price realized for an XK120 in Bring A Trailer’s listings over the last two years was $276,000, but that was Clark Gable’s car. In the last 12 months, an 1950 alloy XK120 traded hands for $199,652. Meanwhile, back on Earth, there’s been solid action in the $92,000 to $95,000 range, with representatives including a Fixed Head Coupé, a Roadster with a five-speed conversion, and a Drophead Coupé.

A full half of the insurance quote requests processed by Hagerty were from baby boomers, who represent 39 percent of the total collector car market. Preboomers made up the next chunk at 24 percent of the quote requests, which is, again, an outsized proportion compared to this demographic’s claim to just seven percent of the overall hobby. Gen Xers, who represent 31 percent of the market, only requested 17 percent of the quotes Hagerty processed. Millennials were an 8 percent slice of the quote pie, making up 5 percent of the market overall.

The XK120 is one of the world’s most alluring cars, full stop. None of that detracts from just how wonderful these cars are to drive. The exhaust note is magic. The butt-on-the-tarmac driving position behind that giant tiller and long hood is unlike anything from the last six decades. Despite archaic technology, this is a car built to go fast for long periods of time, provided you’re brave enough. An hour in an XK120 is pure time travel, and that’s as true then as it is now.

The post Your handy 1949-53 Jaguar XK120 buyer’s guide appeared first on Hagerty Media.

There’s a lot of attention surrounding the Ford Bronco now that—finally—after a 25 year hiatus, a new Bronco is set to roll into garages all over America. While the 2022 Ford Bronco is obviously a completely different beast than the first-generation Broncos from 1966 to 1977, its design avoided replicating the style of the three other generations of the full-size Bronco. And the ways the new Bronco tipped its hat to the original model are clear, especially when you dig into the year-to-year changes of the original.

Model Overview

1966

There’s no doubt that Ford product manager Donald Frey and Lee Iacocca wanted a piece of the action that Jeep and International Harvester were enjoying with the CJ-5 and Scout 80, which together sold over 30,000 units a year combined. Not to mention Ford was no stranger to the concept, as they built over 270,000 Jeeps during WWII, and in 1951, designed the M-151 or “MUTT,”which became the successor to Willys’ M38A and M38A1. Ford was hungry for a piece of the sport-utility pie.

Prototype Broncos arrived in January of 1966, overseen by Ford engineer Paul Axelrad. Their aim was to succeed in the areas where the CJ-5 and the Scout 80 fell short (both had short wheelbases but neither were particularly maneuverable). Neither the Jeep nor the Scout had a six-cylinder engine (when the first Bronco prototype was tested) and they both had a narrow track, leading to rollovers on sidehills.

While the Bronco may seem primitive compared to modern vehicles, the production version that launched on August 11, 1966 solved every one of the competition’s shortcomings. The 92-inch wheelbase is shorter than that of both competitors, enough to achieve a 33.6-foot turning radius—three feet smaller than the CJ-5 and a staggering 9.5 feet smaller than the Scout 80. The Bronco also used a much more sophisticated “Mono-Beam” front suspension with coil springs and radius rods up front, offering a smoother ride and allowing the wheels to turn more effectively. The setup includes a one-inch diameter track bar for lateral stability. And at 57.4 inches, the Bronco had a track four inches wider than the CJ, plus better brakes, with 11-inch drums up front and 10 inch drums in the rear.

The only engine available in the first Bronco was the 102-hp 170-cu-in six cylinder, a dramatic upgrade over the Jeep’s four-cylinder engine. (For the 1966 model year the CJ got an optional Dauntless 225 V-6.) In the Bronco brochure from 1966, the 200-hp 289-cu-in V-8 was promised for “mid-March” of 1967.

The transmission was better, too. The Bronco’s three-speed manual was the first fully synchronized transmission in any 4×4 vehicle available in the United States. The Bronco also used a Dana 20 transfer case with a single T-bar shift lever with a positive lock knob, similar to the shifter on a Mustang, versus the Jeep’s Dana 18 with twin sticks.

Mechanicals aside, the Bronco was well appointed inside compared to the CJ or the Scout. The package included rugged features like a fold-down windshield and vacuum operated wipers, but the Bronco also had doors with roll-up windows and a frame for the glass. Remember, the CJ-5 lacked doors unless you went to aftermarket suppliers like Koenig, Meyer, or Sears. The Bronco sported standard items like turn signals (an add-on for Jeeps), a padded dash, seat belts, and windshield washers.

The 1966 Bronco was also available in three separate body styles, the first being a Bronco Roadster with no roof, and a swooping, dogleg-style door opening similar to the CJ-5’s. A vinyl top was available from the massive accessory catalog. The Bronco Sports Utility pickup had a full square door opening with a half-cab roof, with a bench seat inside. The cargo area on the Sports Utility was separated by a metal bulkhead, providing a small bed separate from the passenger compartment. The Bronco Wagon had the same full doors, but with a roof that enclosed both cargo and passenger areas, a standard bench seat, optional bucket seats and an optional rear bench seat.

Another Bronco advantage was the full-width tailgate. The tailgate on the Jeep was only the width between the wheel wells, and was held up with chains. The Bronco tailgate had a center latch for one-handed operation, and had a full, 56-inch wide tailgate opening. In this first year the Bronco was available in 10 colors and Ford sold 18,200 units. Not a huge success, but the Bronco was definitely competitive against the CJ-5.

1967

After the big launch in 1966, the changes for 1967 were limited. Padded sun visors moved from the option catalog to the standard features list. The T-bar shifter lost the positive lock knob. Like most vehicles that were anticipating the rollout of new Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards, Ford opted for a dual-reservoir master cylinder for the brakes, and mandated backup lights as a standard safety feature. The brakes also became self-adjusting in 1967.

The Bronco also had a few options added to its already long list in 1967. An 11.5-gallon auxiliary fuel tank was added, with the filler neck on the same side as the main tank. Optional packages for all three body styles offered new dual armrests, chrome bumpers, chrome grille, and chrome light bezels.

Color changes resulted in the total number of colors increasing to 13. Ford built 16,100 Broncos for the 1967 model year.

1968

A handful of mechanical changes marked the 1968 model year. A new replaceable, dry air filter replaced the oil-bath unit, and free-wheeling lockout hubs became standard. The disappearing button on the transfer case T-handle made a triumphant reappearance for ’68.

There were a few design revisions, too. New side marker lights were incorporated on the lower front fender, with amber lenses. The interior door handles were revised from a pull-up style to a recessed flipper, for both aesthetic and safety reasons. The option list grew by one item: a new swing-away spare tire carrier, which freed up a significant amount of space in the cargo area. The number of available color choices stayed at 13, and Ford pumped out 15,700 Broncos this year.

1969

There were two notable changes for 1969, and the first was in the engine bay. Gone was the 289 V-8, and in its place came the 302 V-8, with a modest jump in horsepower (to 205 hp) but a significant jump in torque from 282 to 300 lb-ft. Broncos equipped with the 302 got a “302 V-8” emblem on the front fenders.

The second major revision was the elimination of the Roadster body style. It was a slow seller from the get-go, and despite its cheap base price, many more Bronco customers opted for the full cab. A reinforced body structure helped to seal out both water and dust from the passenger cabin. The windshield wipers switched from vacuum operation to a two-speed electric motor after mid-1968 production. Unfortunately, the wiper motor’s location meant that the latches for the fold-down windscreen were now eliminated.

The 1969 brochure shows red rear marker lights on the rear fender and that color availability jumped to 15. Ford sold 19,200 Broncos, the model’s biggest sales year to that point.

1970

Since the beginning of production, Ford offered a Sport package, which it now transformed into a distinct trim level. The Sport trim levels were available on both the Bronco wagon and the Pickup.

Both the front and rear side marker lamps moved north on their respective fenders, to about the belt line, for better visibility. Fuel capacity for both tanks decreased in 1970. The front auxiliary tank dropped to 10.3 gallons, while the main tank was reduced to 12.7. Available color choices rose to 17, and Ford sold 18,500 Broncos in 1970.

1971

In ’71 things got a bit beefier. From ’66 to ’70, Ford used the a Dana 30 up front and a Ford 9-inch in the rear. Beginning in ’71, you got a Dana 44 up front along with the 9-incher out back. Color choices bloomed to 18, and Ford sold 18,700 Broncos.

Bill Stroppe had been campaigning the Bronco and beating the pants off the competition in the Baja 500 and 1000. In celebration, for the 1971 model year Ford participated in production of the Stroppe Baja Bronco. These special editions—only about 650 sold from 1971 to 1974—were sold by Stroppe as new, and featured a Poppy Red and Wimbledon White paint scheme, along with a hardtop with a Bright Blue Metallic roof. Each one had a Satin Black hood to reduce glare. The trucks also received a rear seat, heavy-duty cooling, the swing-away tire carrier, a heavy duty suspension, a unique exhaust, and the extra fuel tank as standard features.

But that was just the bits added at Ford’s assembly line; these special editions were shipped to Stroppe’s facility where final assembly and sales occurred. These are the ONLY early Broncos you’ll find that have trimmed fenders and are actually worth more than a Bronco wagon with uncut fenders. Stroppe’s added riveted fender flares in order to clear the 15 x 8.5 painted steel wheels with Gates off-road tires. Chrome steel wheels were an option. Later Bajas would have Ansen-style slot mags.

Both power steering and an automatic transmission were part of the Baja package, neither of which were available on the standard Bronco. That required a specially cast tail shaft housing in order to buddy up with the transfer case. Bronco Bajas had a GM Saginaw steering box with a custom bracket designed at Stroppe’s facility.

Bronco Bajas also received a unique steering wheel, a roll bar, a trailer hitch and dual shocks at all four corners, along with a unique spare tire cover.

1972

The only mechanical change for ’72 was the shift pattern of the transfer case. Aside from the disappearing and reappearing lockout knob, the pattern had been inline since day one. For ’72, it changed to a J-pattern, which was now standard with a 2.34:1 low range.
The option list got a new Ranger package, which included die-cast FORD letters for the grille, the swing-away tire carrier, a RANGER-branded tire cover, color-matched carpeting and interior panels, cloth high-back bucket seats, wood grain vinyl appliqué on the door panels, racing stripes, a chrome bumper and chrome bezels for the dash.

Additionally, V-8 models lost the “302” emblem, and the spare fuel tank was reduced to a less-helpful 7.5 gallons. Colors were reduced to 17 for 1972 and 18,300 new Broncos found homes.

1973

This was a banner year in terms of driving convenience for the ’72 model year. The 170-cu-in inline-six was phased out and replaced with the more powerful 200-cu-in six. With the exception of the Stroppe Baja Bronco, it would be the first time that a C4 automatic transmission and power steering would be on the option list for the Bronco.

On the demerit side of the ledger, the slow-selling pickup model was discontinued for 1973. But all of these changes meant a sales spike for the Bronco, which was now going on its eighth year of production. The landscape was shifting however, as Chevrolet’s Blazer pointed toward a new direction in two-door SUV design. Still, Ford built 26,300 Broncos, more than it had built since 1969, and its best-selling year to this point, and 17 colors rounded out the palette.

1974

After the big revisions in 1973, the 1974 model year changes were mostly cosmetic. On Broncos with automatic transmissions, the gear indicator was now lighted, and all Broncos with a roof received a dome light in place of a map light. Up until 1974, the order guide included a front limited-slip differential, which was discontinued this year, along with the 4.11 gear ratio. 18 colors were available, and Ford enjoyed another strong year for sales with 21,400 built.

1975

To modify a familiar Ford phrase, you could get any engine you wanted in the Bronco in 1975, as long as it was a V-8. The six cylinder was gone, and in its place was the 302 V-8 with a two-barrel carb. That engine was equipped with a catalytic converter and required unleaded fuel. An engine block heater was added to the option list for Bronco owners in colder climates.

18 colors were available, and after two of the Bronco’s strongest sales years to date, production plummeted to 13,200 units.

1976

Milking the last out of the Bronco, Ford made a lot of changes in this year of America’s bicentennial year. Especially with the brakes—deletion of front drum brakes in favor of discs, 11×2.25 inch drums in the rear, and a variable ratio parking brake. Bronco’s also received a new power steering box that quickened the steering from 5.3 turns to 3.8 turns lock-to-lock, and the 302 received standard Dura-Spark electronic ignition.

The option list grew to include a stabilizer bar, heavy-duty shocks, and a Special Décor Group that included a flat black grille, tape stripes, and bright windshield molding. 14,500 Broncos were built for 1976, available in 16 different colors.

1977

The final year for the first-generation Bronco included a number of significant revisions. The fuel caps were removed in favor of fuel filler doors. Side marker lights were now vertical, and the rear differential housing was revised for extra strength. The standard features list lost two items: the passenger seat was now optional again, which it hadn’t been for years. The padded dash also became an option. Power brakes were added to the option list for the very first time, while the auxiliary fuel tank grew a half gallon (to eight gallons) and was now made of plastic.

The last year for production also served as the most popular. 30,700 Broncos in 18 colors were produced in 1977, beating the best year to this point by more than 4000 units.

Before you buy

There’s nothing mechanical that’s all too scary about a Ford Bronco. Both the 170- and 200-cu-in sixes are solid, largely bulletproof, and relatively cheap to repair. The 289 and 302 V-8s are basic, common engines easily rebuilt by anyone with rudimentary skills. Aside from the linkage for the column-shifted three-speed manual, the three-speed Toploader is about as basic as it gets. Rebuilt examples are readily available for $600, and a rebuild on a matching-numbers unit should be relatively cheap.

The transfer case is a Dana 20, one of the strongest, lightest and most capable T-cases available from the era, which found its way into everything from this light-duty rig to the Jeep J4000 one-tons. The only thing of note is that the front mounting pattern on the case for Broncos is specific, and not compatible with other Dana 20s. They’re available, though, and for not a lot of dough. Differentials are either Dana 30s or Dana 44s up front and a Ford 9-inch at the rear—all plentiful.

That’s the good news. The bad news is that rust destroyed these trucks almost from the moment they arrived on dealer lots. Not only was sheet metal preparation not to today’s standards, their construction underneath seems to be actively foster corrosion. There are shelves, pockets, nooks and crannies where dirt and salt can collect and stay wet, rotting frames, floors, and rocker panels with vigor.

Owners were not always kind, either. These compact SUVs were used up when they were new, and then again by their next owners when they were often built into trail rigs and beach wagons. They were generally destroyed in the process. Ford built hundreds of thousands of Broncos between 1966 and 1977, and the vast majority were trashed. Fenders were cut to add larger wheels and tires, homemade lift kits were installed, and so on.

Luckily, there’s a strong community of people who are dedicated to their preservation. Outfits like Bronco Graveyard offer expert advice, tons of new parts and loads of reclaimed parts to keep these trucks on the road.

1966 to 1977 Bronco Values

The Hagerty Valuation team notes that Bronco values started climbing around 2011, but really hit their stride between 2017 and 2019. (For the latest valuation data, please click here.) For example, from the end of 2016 to the end of 2019, the median #2 (Excellent) value for an early Bronco shot up 84 percent. Roadster models doubled in value, and that story was similar for the V-8-powered wagon. Median #2 value for a 1966–77 Bronco is $53,650 compared to $39,500 for a 1969–72 Chevy Blazer and $28,500 for a 1972–80 International Scout II.

Bottom of the barrel #4 (Fair) condition Broncos are still ranging anywhere from $15,000 to $22,000 depending on the engine. There seems to be little difference in price between automatics and manuals, but the latest early Broncos equipped with power steering seem to be the most expensive.

In the last year, not a single 1966–77 Bronco sold on Bring A Trailer for less than $21,000. A no reserve 1971 Bronco Pickup with rough paint, a 170-cu-in six, a three-speed and torn seats sold in March of 2021 for $21K. While warnings about the values of uncut fenders and original engines are plentiful, the market does not support that speculation: Generally, customized or restomodded first generation Broncos sell extremely well at auctions like Barrett-Jackson. Among the classic Broncos at Scottsdale this year, for example, 60 percent were modified in some way and the average price was over $111,000.

The median quoted value for an early Bronco is $29,600. The quoted value is up 74 percent over the last five years and the number of quotes Hagerty processed over that same timeframe is up 79 percent.

The demographics for first-gen Bronco owners who asked for a Hagerty insurance quote will be a bit surprising to some readers. You might expect that baby boomers who saw these vehicles arrive a couple of years after the Mustang would be the dominant Bronco demographic, but they represent about 28 percent of the audience for these trucks, while making up 39 percent of the hobby overall. Fifty percent of the quotes Hagerty processed for early Broncos came from Gen X, despite making up a slightly smaller percentage of the hobby overall than boomers. In general, however, vintage trucks and SUVs are disproportionately more popular with Gen Xers than any other demographic group. The balance of quotes for early Broncos came from millennials at 20 percent, versus 18 percent of the hobby overall; pre-boomers, who requested 3 percent of the quotes, make up 7 percent of the hobby, and Gen-Zers, who requested 1 percent of the quotes, make up 5 percent of the total collector car market.

Considering the vibrant, reinvigorated interest in the first-generation Bronco from all across the collector car community, if you wanted to get in for a truly affordable price, the time to get one was probably 10 years ago. The desire for two-door SUVs has gone bananas across the board, and first-gen Broncos are perceived as special in comparison to the more common CJ-5, and they have a much larger fan base than the International Harvester Scout. Prices don’t seem to be going anywhere for the moment, so the old adage still rings true: Find the best-condition Bronco you can find in your price range and enjoy the ride.

The post Your handy 1966–77 Ford Bronco buyer’s guide appeared first on Hagerty Media.

Abrasive media blasting is the preferred method for preparing a surface for a complete restoration. But what if your vehicle has survived all this time with its original paint intact, and it’s got decades of grease, grime, undercoating and surface rust to contend with? You’d want to preserve as much of the original surface as possible, so anything abrasive wouldn’t do. Chemical stripping is effective, but it can be caustic, messy, and could have environmental impacts you wouldn’t want to get into.

Dry Ice Cleaning is a process that uses dry ice pellets propelled by compressed air to attack surface contaminants like rust, old undercoating, and flaky paint, but is harmless to painted surfaces. Dave Pickard owns ACT Dry Ice Services in Harleysville, Pennsylvania, and since 1998, he’s been using this unique technology as an environmentally safe, effective cleaning alternative.

“The technology was originally developed by Lockheed-Martin,” Pickard told us in a phone interview. Rounds of chemical stripping could eventually deform and degrade the aluminum skin on an aircraft and media blasting was out of the question, so Lockheed-Martin experimented with different blasting media, eventually arriving on dry ice, the solid form of carbon dioxide, which sublimates at a super-cold -109.2°F. Lockheed-Martin won a patent for the invention in 1977, but quickly realized it wasn’t effective at removing paint.  “What Lockheed-Martin figured out was that this process was terrible at removing paint, but it was great at removing everything else without damaging the paint. Well-bonded material will not come off. Only paint that has been poorly applied or actively flaking off is removed.”

The engineering giant’s trash was someone else’s treasure, and Lockheed and eventually sold the technology to a company called Alpheus, which went on to produce dry ice cleaning equipment. Dave Pickard’s father was the Northeast sales representative for Alpheus, and as he made his sales pitch to various companies, he learned that there was more call for dry ice cleaning as a service than there was for the equipment. With the investment in the equipment already done, there was still a living to be made, and the business pivoted its strategy with Dave in the driver’s seat. “I’d been waiting tables, and my parents had enough of that lifestyle,” Dave laughs. “I initially did a few jobs in 1996, but by 1998 I really started the business.”

In those early days, Dave’s biggest customer was a manufacturer of printing presses. “They’d repossess printing equipment, and by cleaning it with dry ice, they could add 20 percent to the resale price,” he says. As the printing business subsided, Dave transitioned to commercial applications like mold and fire remediation, using dry ice to removes soot and smoke damage without harming the underlying structure. Applications for auto restoration are ramping up, too.

The blasting machines are now produced by Cold Jet, the company that acquired Alpheus in 2003. The equipment is deceptively simple. Dave uses a 185-CFM compressor, and the hopper is stainless steel. Modern versions of the equipment only weigh about 120 pounds, versus the 400-pound versions he worked with in the late 1990s. The dry ice media comes in insulated containers with casters. With the media loaded in the hopper, he cleans the surface with the meticulous eye of a fine art restorer.

Along with the gentle treatment of the substrate, there are other significant benefits. “There’s nothing left behind other than the dust and dirt the process removes,” he says. As it cleans, the dry ice sublimates and disappears, leaving no sand or liquid behind to clean up. Safety equipment is the normal PPE worn when media blasting, with an emphasis on eye, ear, and breathing protection.

For vintage car owners that want to preserve undercarriages and engine bays without removing the paint, which may be original, it’s a relatively quick process. “I can typically do what I need to on a car in four to six hours,” he says. His rate for dry ice cleaning is $275 per hour, and working with the car on a lift is a requirement. “I recently did a 1957 Chevrolet truck with a NAPCO 4×4 conversion. Dry ice cleaning is a game of angles, and while it had plenty of ground clearance to move around, not having a lift really made changing those angles difficult,” he says.

Dry ice cleaning’s usefulness goes well beyond undercarriages, too. The process can be dialed back to for more precise cleaning of everything from instrumentation, electronics, taillight assemblies, carburetors, emblems, and electrical components.

Of course, this approach isn’t the best application for every situation. There are ways to avoid the expense of dry ice blasting, but they typically require days under a car with a scraper and chemicals, and then there’s the mess to contend with. And if your project requires removing paint, for example, media blasting is probably the best choice.

Dave gets a lot of automotive conservation work locally because his base of operations is roughly an hour outside of Philadelphia, in prime classic car country. He does work for Ragtops & Roadsters in nearby Perkasie, which specializes in British drop-tops, as well as its sister restoration shop, Pollock Auto Restoration in Pottstown, which handles just about everything else. He’s also doing a lot of work for Mustang Barn American Classic Restoration in his hometown of Harleysville.

There are other shops around the country that also specialize in automotive conservation—companies like Yeti Restoration in Ohio, Cryo Werks in San Diego, California, and Cryo Detail in Coral Springs, Florida, have all been successful with the process.

Cars and trucks that retain as much of their originality as possible sell at a premium today. While restored cars will always make up a huge percentage of the classic vehicle hobby, there’s a subset of hobbyists that are passionate about preserving what was applied at the factory, or by hand. Dave is a big classic car fan himself, owner of both a 1910 Packard Touring Car (one of 52 built, and the last surviving example) and a 1966 Triumph Herald. As he says, “Conservation is the new restoration.”

The post Dry ice cleaning: The coolest way to remove rust, grime, and undercoating appeared first on Hagerty Media.

It’s kind of hard to believe today, when Mazda struggles to sell 10,000 Miatas annually, but there was a time when Mazda’s beloved roadster landed in more than 25,000 driveways each year. If you were paying any attention at all in 1989 and 1990, the NA (first-generation) Miata seemingly came out of nowhere, and suddenly it was everywhere you looked. Known globally as the MX-5, the Miata reinvented a vehicle segment in ways that its contemporaries like the Toyota MR2, the Australian Mercury Capri, and even the Pontiac Fiero never could. And, perhaps more importantly, it thrived.

Model overview

1990

After its debut at the Chicago Auto Show on February 10, 1989, the NA Miata went on sale in the United States in May as a 1990 model year. Sporting an all-steel monocoque with an aluminum hood, the Miata’s design was a collaborative effort by Mazda’s Tom Matano, C. Mark Jordan and Masao Yagi, at the behest of Bob Hall, a former journalist who secured a position at Mazda based on his sketches of a two-seat sports car.

The 1990 Miata was equipped with a BP-ZE 1.6-liter, normally aspirated four-cylinder derived from the Mazda 323, but capped with a unique cast aluminum cam cover. The only available transmission was a five-speed manual (sourced from the home market 929) and a 4.30:1 differential fed power to the Miata’s rear wheels. While an open differential was standard fare, a viscous limited-slip differential was optional.

The Miata was available in one trim level for 1990, but with two significant option packages; Package A included power steering, a leather-wrapped steering wheel, alloy wheels, and an AM/FM cassette player. Package B included everything in Package A, plus cruise control, power windows, and headrest speakers.

There were also a handful of standalone options for the first year: the aforementioned limited-slip rear diff, a removable hard top with a glass back window (finished in red only), air conditioning, and a CD player (which required either the A or B Pack).

Three exterior colors were available initially: Classic Red, Crystal White, and Mariner Blue (informally known as “Superman Blue.”) Later in the 1990 model year, Mazda introduced Silver Stone Metallic, a color that’s sought out by enthusiasts.

1991

The second model year brought a handful of minor changes. Months into the 1991 model year brought a change to the crankshaft nose, which eliminated a fair bit of stress when it came time to change the Miata’s timing belt. (More on that later.)

The biggest revision was to the option list, as a four-speed automatic transmission (which precluded ordering the limited-slip differential), and anti-lock brakes were made available. If a Miata has ABS, it also has the B Package. The hardtop was also available in a wider range of colors (except for you, Silver Stone metallic).

The 1991 brochure introduces the Miata’s first Special Edition (SE), sporting a British Racing Green exterior with a tan leather interior. This was the first time leather was available. While the SE is referenced in the Miata brochure, it also had a unique four-page pamphlet. The SE was a full B-package car, plus air conditioning, cruise and a CD player. The SE also included a Nardi wood shift knob, wood parking brake handle, and a tan tonneau cover, though some suggest the tonneau was also shipped in black. The only options were ABS, the hardtop and the automatic transmission. Just 4000 SEs were built.

1992

For 1992, all Miatas received a rear suspension cross brace for additional rigidity. There were two new colors, Brilliant Black and Sunburst Yellow, that latter of which came at a $250 upcharge. Despite not being a Special Edition, Sunburst Yellow Miatas (all A Packages) were indeed special, as they are a one-year-only color that’s now desired by collectors. Just 1519 Miatas were sprayed Sunburst Yellow, far fewer than the actual “Black Miata” special edition (4626) which was finished in Brilliant Black with a tan top and tan leather guts.

Unlike the fully loaded 1991 Special Edition, the Black Miata started as an A Package car. That included power steering, leather steering wheel, alloy wheels, AM/FM cassette stereo, and buyers could layer on the new, Black Miata-only C Package, with the Nardi wood shift knob and hand brake handle, stainless sill plates, BBS 14-inch alloy wheels, plus all the B-package contents including cruise control, headrest speakers, and a new power antenna.

1993

An all-new chrome emblem was added to the Miata and all Mazda products for 1993. The emblem (mounted on the Miata’s nose) depicted a smooth diamond with a hole in it (that hopefully doesn’t look too much like Renault’s logo) and Mazda was so keen to the design it also replaced the traditional block “MAZDA” script on the alloy wheel’s center caps.

There were no huge mechanical changes for 1993, but the option packages shifted around quite a bit. The A Package now included new power mirrors. B Package cars now had the power antenna from last year’s C Package. For 1993, the C Package included all the B Package material, plus a tan top and tan leather seating surfaces. Those tan bits are likely why the C Package was unavailable on Miatas painted Mariner Blue. The only change to the option list was a new Mazda Sensory Sound System, which added a silver-faced cassette/CD Player, digital sound processing, two full range door speakers, two sill-mounted tweeters, four headrest speakers and two seatback-mounted bass transducers. This extensive audio upgrade required the B or C Package.

The special edition for 1993 was no longer “special.” Now called a Limited Edition, this Miata had a black exterior with a brilliant red leather interior, and a tonneau cover with a black top. Mazda built just 1,500 numbered Limited Editions and threw everything they could at them: Nardi leather shift knob, 14-inch BBS alloy wheels, Mazda Sensory Sound System, stainless sill plates, Sport Suspension (Bilstein shocks and revised springs), rear spoiler, front air dam, rear skirt, air conditioning, ABS, limited-slip differential, and everything from the A and B Packages.

1994

1994 was a big year, including the first major mechanical change since 1991’s automatic gearbox. The 1.6-liter gave way to a 1.8-liter four-cylinder, offering a boost of about 15 horsepower. Along with a number of mechanical changes to allow for the jump in horsepower, the rear differential “grew” slightly taller, increasing to a 4.10:1 ratio from 4:30:1. Additional chassis bracing improved torsional rigidity yet again.

Along with the improved engine came a host of smaller revisions, including larger brakes and newly designed alloy wheels. The optional differential also got a major change: The viscous limited-slip departed and in its place was a new Torsen limited-slip, a prized option by anyone interested in racing the Spec Miata series. All A Package cars were equipped with the Torsen. For 1994, Mariner Blue bowed out and was replaced with Laguna Blue Metallic.

The contents of the A, B, and C Packages stayed the same other than the Torsen, but there was an all-new addition: The R Package. The R included a Sport Suspension with Bilstein shocks, a rear spoiler, a front air dam, a rear skirt, aluminum wheels and the Torsen. You couldn’t buy an R Package with power steering, or the B or C Packages. At $1500, the R Package wasn’t cheap. It also replaced a Special or Limited Edition that year, and only 1218 were made.

1994 also marked the debut of the M Edition, this year in Montego Blue Mica, with tan leather, a tan top boot and tan top. Inside the M Edition included a Nardi wood shift knob and hand brake handle, polished alloy wheels, air conditioning, stainless sill plates, custom mats, M Edition key ring, badge and lapel pin, along with all equipment found in the A and B Packages.

1995

There was a reshuffling of packages again this year, as the Miata’s lettered packages disappeared. Replacing the A Package was the more robust Popular Equipment Package (PEP) that included power steering, leather wrapped wheel, power mirrors, alloy wheels, the Torsen differential (manual cars only), headrest speakers, cruise control, power windows, and a power antenna. The only other option package was the Leather Package, which included all the gear from the PEP, plus tan leather seating surfaces and a tan top. The Mazda Sensory Sound System was optional on the Leather Package.

The M Edition was the big news, though. Painted in a bespoke color (Merlot Mica), the M Edition included all PEP equipment and added a tan leather interior, a tan boot, leather Nardi shift knob, 15-inch BBS wheels with high-performance tires, cut pile carpeting, stainless sill plates, air conditioning, a CD player and four speakers, and ABS. The M Edition also had unique floor mats, a unique exterior badge, an M Edition key ring, and lapel pin. Launched at the 1995 Chicago Auto Show, the M Edition was only available for six months, and only 3500 were built.

The R Package still existed in 1995, and just 465 were built. There was also a single new color for 1995, Montego Blue Mica, which debuted on the 1994 M Edition, but was now available across the board.

1996

For 1996, the Miata was OBD-II compliant in keeping with federal regulations. The 1.8-liter four also got a boost to 133 hp, while the interior received a number of minor comfort and convenience updates.

The M Edition was (subjectively) one of the prettiest, finished in a Starlight Mica paint scheme, with tan leather seating surfaces, and a matching boot and top. It also included the Nardi wood shift knob and parking brake handle, 15-inch Enkei five-spoke wheels with high-performance tires, M Edition floor mats, a blue Miata logo on the seat backs, stainless sill door plates, ABS, air conditioning, Mazda Sensory Sound System, an M edition logo on tachometer, an exterior M Edition badge, M Edition key fob, badge, and lapel pin, custom floor mats, a security system and remote entry. It also received everything from the Popular Equipment Package.

According to the brochure, the M Edition was limited production, but Mazda sure made a lot of them; 2968 in total. The R Package was also available, but limited to only 111 units. Colors for non-special editions were limited to Classic Red, Brilliant Black, White, and Montego Blue Mica.

1997

The final year for the NA Miata ushered in another shakeup in the option packaging department. For 1997, you could order a Miata with:

• The Power Steering package, which included power steering and trim rings on the base steel wheels.
• The Touring Package, which stripped a lot of equipment from the previous year’s Popular Equipment Package, including power steering, leather wheel, power windows, power mirrors, and alloy wheels, and added door map pockets.
• The Popular Equipment Package, containing the Touring Package, plus the Torsen diff, additional subframe bracing, headrest speakers, cruise and a power antenna.
• The Leather Package and R Package were available and essentially unchanged.

If you’re into rarity, Mazda only built 47 R Packages in 1997, the lowest production of any Mazda package. This was also the only year for the Special Touring Option (STO), but Mazda advertised it as “Still the One.” No matter what you called it, the STO was painted Twilight Blue Mica with a tan top, boot and leather interior, along with a leather Nardi shift knob, 15-inch Enkei five-spoke wheels, stainless door sill plates, rear lip spoiler, rear subframe brace, CD player with headrest speakers, custom floor mats with the STO label, power steering, leather-wrapped steering wheel, power mirrors, power windows, a Certificate of Authenticity, and a numbered STO dash plate. STOs were nicely loaded, but you could not option it with cruise control, ABS, Torsen differential, Mazda Sensory Sound System, electric antenna, or the factory hardtop. Just 1500 STOs were produced.

Before you buy

In general, the Miata is a rock-solid sports car, even when daily driven through all kinds of weather. But there are a handful of things to look out for. The 1.6-liter engines are great and generally maintenance-light workhorses that can easily travel into the 200,000 mile range without breaking a sweat. However, 1.6-liter engines that came in the 1990 and early 1991 model years had a short-nose crankshaft, which didn’t reveal itself as a problem until a timing belt change was required.

The early 1.6’s timing belt procedure included replacing the crankshaft seal, and that’s where the trouble starts. Improper reassembly of the crank pulley key in the keyway can cause the pulley bolt to fail, and eventually, the entire crank replacement. This occurred for about 1 percent of all 1990 and early 1991 Miata owners. Now, timing belt maintenance usually skips the crank seal unless it’s leaking, which avoids the problem altogether, but it’s still critical if you’ve got a 1990 or early 1991 that you have the timing belt replaced by someone who knows what they’re doing.

The aforementioned limited-slip differential is a desirable option for owners interested in maximum handling prowess, so checking for its presence and functionality is recommended. Beyond jacking the car up and spinning a rear wheel to see which direction the opposite wheel turns, you can tell if your potential purchase has an original viscous limited-slip by the ears on the left side of the case, around the stub flange. If they’re different than the ears on the right side of the case, it’s a viscous limited-slip. If they’re the same, it’s an open differential. Later-model Miatas with optional Torsen differentials have a four pronged “clover” attached to the pinion, this is a vibration damper not used in the open differential.

Rust is the next big concern. Mazda did a decent job installing drains in the body, but they’d become plugged about six days after the cars rolled out of the showroom, causing water to back up inside the car. This leads to everything from smelly carpets to rusty, blown-out floors. Miata rocker panels are notorious for rust, most notably ahead of the rear wheel arches, but this can be repaired by a decent body shop.

Inside, examples with cloth seating can look worn within the first five years, especially near the driver’s bolster. Original headrest speakers are likely blown out by now, but aftermarket replacements are often superior to the OEM speakers. If you have the original audio system in an early Miata, you’ll need to learn how the code works in case the battery ever dies. (Instructions for resetting it are available online.) These cars also had—and still have —a thriving aftermarket community, so if you’re all about originality, finding a source for things like shift knobs, steering wheels, wheels, air boxes and other factory parts may be needed. A lot of these bits ended up in the garbage when these cars were newer, done so in pursuit of personalization and customization.

Unlike most other cars, the Miata has a perhaps equal number of enthusiasts who are interested in racing. All NA Miatas are potential spec racer candidates, but some are better suited to the task than others. The general consensus is to buy a big-nose crank car (late 1991 to 1995) and focus on 1994 models because of these features: 1.8-liter engine, additional bracing, larger brakes, a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and the Torsen differential. That said, any NA Miata is a phone call away from having a limited-slip differential, so given the choice between a clean, unmolested late 1991 and a ratty 1994, pick the 1991.

Valuation

You’ll want to check the Hagerty Valuation Tool for the most recent Miata values, because after at least a decade of price stability, these cars are on the move. Early base Miatas with steel wheels, a bit of mileage, and sprayed in the conventional colors are still available in the $6000 to $7000 range for #3-condition (Good) cars. Later cars with the 1.8 are much more expensive, especially when you get into the Special Editions. At any major auction, a 1995 M Edition with around 50,000 miles is easily good for $12,500.

These cars were ripe for engine swaps, turbos, and superchargers, and surprisingly, these modified cars sell for good money. LS-swapped Miatas sell for ridiculous prices, possibly because of the Shelby Cobra’s halo effect. Cars with their original engines that sell at the top of the price ladder are almost universally the Special Edition cars, with mileage under 10,000. Notable sales include a 14,000-mile original 1991—one of just 4000 in that year’s Special Edition color—sold for $31,500; a 6700 mile 1992 B-Package car with a matching hardtop for $21,263; and an 8000-mile 1993 Limited Edition which sold for $36,750.

The folks interested in these cars should be no surprise: Gen X, which makes up 30 percent of the classic car market, represents about 19 percent of the insurance quotes processed by Hagerty. Millennials—who spent their youth paying attention to Miatas when they were new—only represent 18 percent of the classic car market, but make up 22 percent of the quotes for these cars. Boomers make up 40 percent of the market versus 34 percent of the Miata quotes we process. Pre-Boomers and Gen Y make up seven and five percent of the classic car market, respectively, but Pre-Boomers only made up eight percent of the quote requests. Gen Y more than doubled that at 17 percent.

Regardless of the recent uptick in values, though, the NA Miata is still the egalitarian sports car it always was. They’re a blast to drive, an easy introduction into racing, and they take up little space in the garage. Everybody should own at least one example at some point. For many the NA Miata’s affordable, reliable, great-looking recipe for fun still has yet to be improved upon.

The post Your handy (1990-97) Mazda Miata buyer’s guide appeared first on Hagerty Media.

Drive a Porsche 911, and you’re likely to see yourself coming and going every time it leaves the garage. Drive an Aston Martin V8 Vantage, and you’re almost sure to be all alone, driving one of the most gorgeous automobiles ever built.

But which Vantage are we talking about? The name has been used as a full model since the early 1970s, and as a branch of other models since the early 1950s. We are interested in the 2006–2017 V8 Vantage: The leanest, most agile car in Aston Martin’s stable at the time. Here’s a thousand foot overview of what each year had to offer:

Model overview

2006

The Henrik Fisker-designed V8 Vantage hit the stage at the Geneva Auto Show in 2005 as a 2006 model. Sporting a hand-built, dry sump, 4.3-liter, quad-cam V-8 that was derived from the AJ V-8 (used in Jaguars, the Lincoln LS, and the Ford Thunderbird) the AJ37 engine is all Aston Martin. The block, heads, cam, crank, pistons, connecting rods, and intake/exhaust manifolds are bespoke, and the sounds it makes are still remembered today.

Italy’s Graziano Trasmissioni provided the six-speed manual transaxle, and the independent, double-wishbone suspension meets the road via staggered 18 x 8.5 and 1 8x 9.5 wheels fitted with Bridgestone Potenza rubber (235/45ZR18 front, 275/40ZR18 rear). The brakes are world-class Brembos: 14 inches up front, and 13 inches in the rear. The chassis is a monocoque constructed of bonded aluminum, and buyers had the choice between a Coupe and the Roadster, the latter of which debuted a bit later at the 2006 Los Angeles Auto Show.

Inside is where the critical eye recognizes the V8 Vantage’s parts-bin engineering. Everywhere you look, there are subtle hints of Aston Martin’s involvement in Ford’s Premier Automotive Group. There were Volvo parts all over the interior, from the premium audio system to the the levitating navigation system, power window switches, and key fob (which has a Volvo logo under the leather skin). But none of this detracts from the gorgeous, chronograph-inspired instrument panel, nor the overall upscale feeling of the Vantage V8’s interior design. The waterfall center stack is delightful, although it’s littered with more buttons than a switchboard operator’s terminal. The seats are amazing, and the headliner is slathered in Alcantara.

2006.5

Shortly after the V8 Vantage went on sale, changes were already afoot: early production versions had yellow LED readouts in the center of the instrument panel, which were changed to white LEDs. The white readouts are visible in the 2006 model year brochure.

2007

In the second quarter of 2007, Aston Martin introduced a new transmission option for the V8 Vantage: the “Sportshift” six-speed automated manual. The transmission was developed by Prodrive, a British motorsports and advanced technology engineering group, with a clutch just like a manual but no third pedal. Shifting was operated via paddles, or automatically by leaving the gear selector in Drive. Aston Martin claimed that when equipped with Sportshift, V8 Vantage gear changes were executed in 0.2 seconds.

2007 marked a revision in seat upholstery patterns, but the bigger news was the V8 Vantage N400, which commemorated the brand’s racing victories at the Nürburgring. Unveiled at the 2007 Frankfurt Auto Show, the 4.3-liter V-8 got a boost to 400 hp. It also received the Sports Pack, which was available on later years of the V8 Vantage. This package included lightweight wheels, uprated springs and shocks, and a revised rear anti-roll bar. Customers could finish their N400 in one of three colors: Bergwerk Black, Lightning Silver, or Karussell Orange. Inside, the N400 was upholstered in perforated leather, and there was a map of the Nürburgring stitched onto the center armrest along with a numbered plaque. Aston evaluated the car at the Nordschleife circuit, and the car inked a lap time that came in under eight minutes. In a nod to the 480 seconds it took to complete the course, 480 examples of the N400 were built, split evenly between Coupe and Roadster variants.

2008

In May of 2008, Aston Martin announced revisions to the V8 Vantage that endured throughout its production run. The engine grew in displacement thanks to an increase in bore and stroke, for a total of 4735 cc. While the 4.3-liter had cylinder liners cast into the block, the new 4.7 had cylinder liners pressed into the pre-machined aluminum-alloy block. The revised engine featured a new forged steel crankshaft, with holes in the counterweights for reduced mass. The V8 Vantage’s dry sump was improved, in a new casting with pickups moved from the front and rear to the sides of the sump. The heads received new intake ports, and the intake valves increased from 34.9 mm to 35.9 mm. Both manual and Sportshift transmissions were updated for 2008 with a modified clutch and flywheel. The shift mapping on the Sportshift was also tweaked.

The suspension received a number of updates, including Bilstein dampers all around, as well as revised upper shock mounts and bump stops. Spring rates were stiffened by 11 percent at the front and 5 percent at the rear, while front lower suspension arm bushings were made 22 percent stiffer to improve steering response and handling. Aston Martin also expanded the availability of the N400’s Sports Pack, offering lighter, forged five-spoke alloy wheels, re-tuned Bilstein dampers, and even further uprated springs, with a revised rear anti-roll bar for the N400 Coupe.

The stunning exterior didn’t change this year, and instead Aston Martin unveiled a new, standard 20-spoke, 19-inch alloy wheel finished in either diamond-turned silver or graphite. Inside, there was a new center console made of die-cast zinc alloy, with a graphite silver finish.

After the 2008 update, the following year-to-year model changes were minimal, and significant changes were limited to the special edition variants which were introduced in a semi-regular cadence.

2010

For the 2010 model year, the N420 package replaced the N400 and was available in either the Coupe or Roadster body styles, with either the six-speed manual or the optional Sportshift. The N420 received the Sports Pack suspension, along with a new exhaust, and a 60-pound weight reduction, thanks to a generous application of carbon fiber. “Race Collection” paint combinations were available as an option, but the color palette was wide open. The N420 received a carbon-fiber splitter, side strakes, a diffuser, and 10-spoke alloy wheels finished in gloss black.

2011

In January of 2011, Aston Martin released the V8 Vantage S, available in both Coupe and Roadster forms. The “S” included a number of engine improvements to the 4.7-liter V-8—improved airflow, new mufflers, new programming to keep the exhaust bypass open longer—which bumped output to 430 hp and 361 lb-ft of torque at 5000 rpm. Zero-to-sixty acceleration dropped to just 4.5 seconds, while top speed rose to 189 mph.

The standard (and only) transmission in the V8 Vantage S was the new Sportshift II, a seven-speed, single-clutch automated manual gearbox, that shaved off 53 pounds from the old six-speed Sportshift. Bushings, springs and dampers were stiffened for the S, and the steering rack had a quicker ratio. Nineteen-inch cast aluminum wheels wore 285/35ZR19 Bridgestone Potenza rubber. The S featured exterior aerodynamic updates, including a deeper front bumper with a carbon-fiber splitter, larger sills, a carbon-fiber diffuser, and a larger rear spoiler.

2013

The SP10 debuted this year, again to celebrate achievements at the famous Nürburgring. The SP10 was powered by a 430-hp version of the 4.7-liter V-8. The only mechanical difference between the SP10 and the V8 Vantage S was that the six-speed manual came standard, with the Sportshift II being optional.

Unique features included clear tail lamps, Ceramic Gray paint (matched to a Titan Gray soft top on the Roadster), and 19-inch cast aluminum wheels finished in high gloss black with black brake calipers. A carbon-fiber front splitter and rear diffuser rounded out the SP10’s equipment.

2015

In April 2014, the night before the opening of the New York International Auto Show, Aston Martin pulled the wraps off of the V8 Vantage GT, essentially the U.S. version of the N430 variant that was already available in other markets. It featured the 430-hp version of the AJ37 V-8, V8 Vantage S suspension updates, and a handful of unique styling features. The GT was available with either the six-speed manual or the seven-speed Sportshift II transmission, and it was offered as both Coupe and Roadster.

2017

For 2017, Aston Martin announced the V8 Vantage GTS, featuring—drumroll please—the same 430-hp AJ37 engine, and either the six-speed manual or the seven speed Sportshift II. The GTS was available in two different trims: Sport and Lux. Sport featured the Sport suspension, carbon-fiber exterior details, leather and Alcantara inside, and an upgraded audio system. The Lux trim went a different route, with piano black accents, polished exterior details, and a new Comfort suspension setting. Just 100 GTS units were available, and all of them came to the United States.

2017 also brought the track-focused, 220-pound lighter Vantage GT8 coupe. Limited to just 150 cars, the 4.7-liter V-8 got a slight boost to 440 hp and a 1 mph faster top speed at 190 mph. Buyers could order either the six-speed manual or the Sportshift II transmission.

Before you buy

While these cars have taken a serious depreciation hit since their initial asking price of between $110,000 and $130,000, they’re still expensive and would-be buyers need to mind their pocketbook when considering one. So at the risk of stating the obvious, considering a V8 Vantage means you’re not buying the type of machine in the same solar system as a pre-owned Lexus.

No matter what year V8 Vantage you’re looking at, exhaustive service documentation (hopefully from an Aston Martin specialist and not from a place like Jiffy Lube) is all but essential. Every standard precaution associated with purchasing a used car from the current millennium applies, but major issues can have a breathtaking impact on a V8 Vantage’s value. Not only do you want a qualified specialist to look at it the car’s mechanicals, you also need someone to examine its aluminum bodywork to check for any evidence of collision damage. That said, since these cars are aluminum, body rust isn’t something you need to worry about. Rust on the subframe is another matter, and will cost big bucks to set right. Walk away from such examples.

A distressing number of V8 Vantage owners had issues riding the clutch before shoving the gas pedal to the mat, which resulted in a lot of fried clutches on six-speed manual examples. Replacing one is easily a $4000 expense, so a receipt showing recent clutch replacement is a bonus. Aston Martin owners complain about the usual electrical issues, problems with the navigation system being one of them, but the interior quality is generally exceptional.

The doors on the V8 Vantage are a work of art. When opened, they swing up slightly to help you avoid scraping the paint off the bottom. The struts holding them in place, however, eventually lose their integrity, allowing the door to slam on your tibia. The good news is that the struts are only about $50 each, and there are a number of DIY replacement videos online.

Valuation

The Aston Martin V8 Vantage has only recently been added to the our valuation data pool, and historic values are only available since 2016. Of course, with the last cars rolling out of Aston’s Gaydon facility in 2017, the youngest of these cars are still depreciating. Our data shows that every iteration is down in value over the last five years, with Roadsters suffering an 11 percent dip. Median #2 (Excellent) value for every year of production is down eight percent over that same time span.

Measuring from the time this Vantage ended production, from 2017 to 2020, tells a different story. In that stretch of time V8 Vantage values went up 3 percent, with a 0.5 percent growth from 2019 to 2020. Our Valuation team predicts this could be a sign of the V8 Vantage accelerating out of its depreciation curve, and we even named the model to our coveted 2021 Bull Market list.

The median quoted value over the past three years is $56,700, equating to just about what you’re going to spend on a #3 (Good) to #2 (Excellent) condition car. The bulk of these Astons are owned by baby boomers, but that’s no surprise considering this demographic makes up 40 percent of the overall vintage car market. What’s interesting is that Gen Xers, who represent 30 percent of the entire market, are right behind boomers in V8 Vantage ownership, owning 31 percent of all the examples in Hagerty’s database. It’s likely that the largely positive media coverage these cars received when new had a huge impact on millennials, too. This demographic own 26 percent of all the V8 Vantages Hagerty tracks, while making up 18 percent of the total market.

If you’re considering one of these handsome, sporty GT cars, the earliest examples may well be at the valley of their depreciation curve. If you find one in clean condition with low mileage and a Sears catalog-sized receipt binder in tow, one of this century’s most beautiful, most lovely-sounding automobiles might be more appealing now than ever.

The post Your handy (2006–17) Aston Martin Vantage buyer’s guide appeared first on Hagerty Media.

Not all Japanese roadsters are created equal. The difference between the Honda S2000 and Mazda’s Miata and is kind of like the difference between taking a pitch from an MLB starter and one from a prepubescent Little Leaguer: The motions might be familiar, but man, everything’s moving a whole lot faster.

Model Overview

2000

Known internally as the AP1, the debut version of the production Honda S2000 carried on through the 2003 model year. The roadster is built around what Honda called the High X-Bone Monocoque frame, which provided outstanding torsional rigidity and an advantageous 50:50 weight distribution. The driveline is located behind the centerline of the front suspension, making this a front/mid-engine layout. The arrangement kept the S2000’s center of gravity low, helping to centralize the mass of the entire vehicle and allowing for maximum response to driver inputs.

Honda referred to the suspension arraignment as “in-wheel,” a setup shared with the original NSX, which was on sale in the U.S. until 2005. The double wishbones were ductile iron and mounted with rubber bushings that minimized vibration without compromising the suspension’s rigidity. All of this was tied together with a 1.11-inch stabilizer bar up front and a 1.07-inch bar at the rear, keeping the car flat through corners and helping lend the electrically assisted steering a linear feel. Also significant at the time was the size of the brake rotors: At 11.8-inches up front and 11.1-inches in back, the brakes on the S2000 were massive for the time and backed by three-channel ABS as a standard feature.

Cars bound for the U.S. had a 240-hp version of Honda’s F20C 2.0-liter, naturally aspirated four-cylinder, which delivered 153 lb ft of torque. Peak horsepower came at 8400 rpm on its way to a fuel cutoff at 9000 rpm. Shifted only via a six-speed manual transmission for its entire run, the S2000 was a pure driver’s car.

Honda built 9148 of these cars in the first year of production, painted in four colors. Silverstone Metallic is by far the most common, with 2871 featuring black interior and 1756 with a dramatic red interior. 2116 examples were finished in New Formula Red, 1350 were Berlina Black with a black interior, another 384 were Berlina Black with red interior, and 671 were Grand Prix White with red interior.

The S2000’s singular trim level was priced at $32,000, compared to the Miata’s $23,545. There were no options other than the accessory hardtop. You chose your color, and that was that.

2001

Changes were modest for the S2000’s second year of production, with the addition of a digital clock on the radio, a standard wind deflector, and Spa Yellow Pearl as an available paint color. The latter proved to be wildly popular: 2154 of the 9942 cars produced that for 2001 were finished in Spa Yellow.

2002

2002 marked the first and only year that S2000 production broke 10,000 units. The suspension settings were revised slightly, but more importantly, Honda engineers determined that engines subjected to extended periods of high-rpm operation (say, 7000 rpm-plus for more than 30 minutes at a time) could face oil starvation issues and eventually score the cylinder walls, particularly on cylinder #4. Honda addressed this issue with a mid-year change to new oil jet bolts or “banjo bolts,” (Part Number 15290-PCX-000). Honda recalled cars in Europe but never did so in North America, although earlier AP1 owners can swap out the parts on their own.

The other significant update for the 2002 model year was the elimination of the plastic rear window, in favor of glass. Other minor tweaks included a leather wrapped steering wheel, a vinyl cover for the hard plastic console bin, a better stereo with separate tweeters and revised tail lamps with chrome rings around the internal lenses.

Silverstone gave way to Sebring Silver Metallic paint, available with both black and red interior. Suzuka Blue Metallic was also introduced in 2002 and quickly became the second most popular color choice.

2003

This was the final year for the AP1, and the changes for this model year were minimal. (Even the brochure uses a lot of photos from prior years.) The biggest change was the re-introduction of both Grand Prix White and Silverstone Metallic. Grand Prix White was also noteworthy for now having a tan interior rather than the much hotter red from the first year of production.

2004

The 2004 model year marked a line of demarcation for Honda S2000 fans: The arrival of the AP2, or second-generation S2000. The revisions were extensive and they noticeably changed the S2000’s character, but whether it’s “better” or “worse” depends entirely on your driving style.

The most obvious change was to the engine: The F20C 2.0-liter engine bowed out, and in its place Honda dropped in the F22C1, a 2.2-liter four-cylinder with a longer stroke. The new engine sported a 6 percent increase in torque, but because of the longer stroke, the sky-high fuel cutoff dropped from 9000 to 8200. Pairing up with the new engine was a revised gearbox with new ratios for all six gears: The first five became shorter, and the sixth was taller for better highway cruising. Brass synchros were also swapped for carbon fiber.

The last major update as part of the AP2 introduction was to the suspension. Again, these changes either “improved” or “did not improve” the S2000’s handling, depending on your preference. The AP1 was set up to be “loose,” meaning that the car would tend to oversteer easier and was designed to power out of corners that way. That’s what many loved about the AP1, but it also resulted in plenty of S2000 drivers hurtling away from the apex of their favorite offramp—backwards. To make the car’s handling more neutral, the AP2 included:

• 17×7 (front) and 17×8.5 (rear) wheels, replacing 16×6.5 (front) and 16×7.5s (rear)
• New Bridgestone RE-050 P215/45R17 (front) and P245/40R17 (rear) tires, replacing P205/55R16 (front) and P225/50R16 (rear) tires
• Front spring rate increased 6.7%, rear spring rate decreased 10%
• New shock settings tuned for new spring rates
• 1.8mm thinner rear stabilizer bar
• New brake pads for better brake feel, and resistance to brake fade
• Steering gear ratio increased to 14.9 from 13.8 to match new tire size

Many cosmetic revisions came along with the performance changes, including new front and rear bumpers, revised headlights, LED tail lamps, and oval-tipped exhaust outlets. Rio Yellow Pearl was a new color for 2004, while both Silverstone Metallic and Sebring Silver Metallic were available with a new red and black interior.

2005

The S2000 was essentially unchanged this year, but some enthusiasts insist that it’s nonetheless noteworthy because it’s the last year before electronics (to a greater degree) started to control the way the S2000 drove.

2006

On the surface, other than the introduction of a new color (Laguna Blue Pearl), the S2000 was unchanged for 2006. Two revisions, however, reined in the S2000’s free spirited demeanor: drive-by-wire throttle and electronic stability control.

Cosmetically, the upholstery pattern changed on the seats, and for the first time, the S2000 got one of the Miata’s most recognizable features: a set of four headrest speakers.

2007

With the exception of a new red and black upholstery color on Grand Prix White S2000s, there’s no change between the 2006 and 2007 model year. Even the sales brochure gives the impression that there’s not much going on, as it’s limited to just two pages.

2008

For the very first time in the United States, the S2000 was available in more than one trim. Along with the base car, Honda offered the S2000 Club Racer (CR). Launched at the New York Auto Show in 2007, the S2000 CR featured:

• A rear spoiler, said to smooth airflow and reduce lift by 70%
• 99 pound weight reduction compared to a base S2000 (power top, radio and A/C delete)
• A Berlina Black hardtop, no matter what color S2000 you ordered
• Stiffer stabilizer bars and dampers
• A unique body brace increasing lateral rigidity by 18%, and vertical rigidity by 94%
• An increase of 20mm in combined rear tire width for the Bridgestone Potenza RE070s
• Shifter shortened by 12.6mm
• Deep, bolstered yellow and black Alcantara seats
• Faux carbon fiber overlays on the dash
• A revised muffler for a throatier exhaust note

Only 668 of the projected 2000 units were produced in 2008. The Apex Blue Pearl in the Club Racer section of the S2000 brochure was new for 2008, and available on non-Club Racer S2000s. Also new was Chicane Silver Metallic.

2009

While the more obvious victims of the 2008 and 2009 global financial crisis were Pontiac, Hummer, Saturn, and retirement savings, it was also the impetus for Honda to put the S2000 on the chopping block. Changes were non-existent and both base S2000s and the S2000 Club Racer were available, but the sales numbers were grim: Honda sold just 355 S2000s in 2009, and of those, just 31 were Club Racers.

Before You Buy

The biggest thing to consider before buying an S2000 is the previous owner. How was the car driven? Was it regularly maintained, with records to prove it? Has the car ever been involved in a crash? This isn’t specific to S2000 ownership, but sports cars like this one were often driven hard.

Crash damage should be a huge red flag. These cars are rare, but there are enough around that you can find one that isn’t wearing mismatched fender colors, ill-fitting doors, curb rash on the wheels, or damaged sills from being improperly jacked. A lot of this damage can be hiding under the surface of an S2000. Given their mechanical reliability, it’s just as important to have a body shop do a pre-purchase inspection if you’re going to be spending real money.

All years of Honda’s S2000 can have issues with the wheel bearings, which can go bad and are expensive to replace. Similarly, these cars can be prone to excessive oil consumption. Early AP1 cars had some complaints about clutch buzz on deceleration, for which Honda issued a technical service bulletin (TSB 00-054, November 27, 2001). There’s the banjo bolt issue we mentioned that was addressed in the 2003 model year. Valve retainers have a tendency to crack after mechanical over-rev on AP1 cars. Spark plugs can also back out, so their torque values need to be checked regularly. Axle nuts can also loosen.

After the transmission was revised for the AP2 generation, the S2000 had a tendency to jump out of 2nd, 4th, or 6th gear. Cars from 2006 or newer have issues with the dash bubbling, wrinkling, or blistering.

On a test drive, these cars shouldn’t have excessive wind noise, regardless of if the top is up or down. These are wind-tunnel tested cars that should give you a quiet pocket of air in the cabin as you drive. Be aware of noises from the gearbox, especially on those early AP1 cars that were the subject of the TSB. In every gear, firmly accelerate and then let off the gas and let it coast. Does it pop out of gear accelerating or decelerating? If yes, there are gearbox issues with which to contend.

All S2000s were built after the DOT-required date codes stamped on the tire sidewall. The last four digits will tell you exactly how old the tires are, but do a visual inspection for sidewall cracks, cracks between the treads, uneven wear, and sidewall cuts from impact with curbs or potholes.

Hardly anyone purchased these cars new with hardtops, and they’re as a result exceedingly rare equipment. Factory hardtops are expensive to acquire a la carte, and a color-matched top original to the car can easily add thousands to the asking price.

Honda S2000 values

The Hagerty Valuation team has gained significant insight into the recent transaction prices for Honda S2000s, but please check here for the most up-to-date values. The latest data update doesn’t indicate any major pricing spikes. Cars that would fall into the #1 (Concours, or “best-in-the-world” examples) and #2 (Excellent) categories have been flat, but #3 (Good) and #4 (Fair) were up 2 percent over the last four months.

Looking back farther, however, S2000 values have increased significantly. We started formally tracking S2000 prices back in 2013, when examples in #2 (Excellent) condition were valued at $24,000 on average. As of February, 2021, the average value for an S2000 is $29,500, a 23 percent increase. If that seems high, it’s because most of the growth is the result of skyrocketing prices for #1 (Concours) and #2 (Excellent) condition cars.

In general, the AP1 cars are worth a bit more than the AP2s are. In 2018, Mecum sold an 855-mile 2003 S2000 for $71,500. (Mileage is key for these super-high-value cars.) It’s a similar story for a 1000-mile New Formula Red S2000 from the first model year, which sold on Bring A Trailer for $48K.

Hagerty insurance quotes for AP1 cars are up 103 percent over the last three years, and up 257 percent in the last five. Agreed values are also up, 17 percent over three years, and 15 percent in the last five years.

If you’re wondering whether younger people are into cars these days, the demographics on S2000 ownership should tell you a lot. Baby boomers own 35 percent of the S2000s insured with Hagerty, compared to 40 percent of the vintage car market overall. Millennials only make up 18 percent of the vintage car market, but our data shows that the second-largest portion of S2000 owners—31 percent—fall into that age bracket.

Only 66,860 of these cars ever made it to the United States, and the years weren’t kind to a lot of them. The youngest of these cars is a dozen years old, and the oldest is more than 20. Take your time, find a good one, and get yourself one you’ll want to drive. The aren’t many cars out there that offer this kind of driving enjoyment at the price point. Find the best-condition S2000 in your price range and you are likely to enjoy your purchase for years to come!

The post Your handy Honda S2000 (2000–09) buyer’s guide appeared first on Hagerty Media.

The Malaise Era’s impact on performance, in the years between 1973 and 1984, is well-known to car enthusiasts. As automakers struggled to meet new emissions targets, with the weight of the mid-’70s oil crisis adding additional strain, the age of big American cars with generous displacement came up against demands for efficiency and budget-consciousness. Ordinary consumers naturally felt this shift, but municipal fleets were equally subject to the nationwide sea change.

To curb rampant inflation, the Federal Reserve raised interest rates dozens of times between 1972 and 1980. Rates eventually hit their peak in January 1980, with a fed fund rate of 20 percent. The economic impact was a disaster. Americans essentially quit spending money, and that filtered all the way down to local police departments which suffered unprecedented revenue strain. Adjusted for 2017 dollars, Americans spent less on local police departments in 1977 than at any point in modern history.

For small municipal departments, Malaise Era automobiles were a salient, physical manifestation of this sad predicament. Relatively expensive, gas-swilling cars like the Plymouth Fury gave way to 9C1 versions of the downsized Chevrolet Malibu and even the Nova. Some departments were forced to take more drastic measures, sourcing fleet vehicles form outside the traditional manufacturers in search of economy cars that were both cheap to purchase and to operate.

LaConner, Washington, 65 miles north of Seattle, got in early with a Renault Le Car—the slightly Americanized version of the Renault 5 introduced here in 1976. “Le Car was selected because it best fits the needs of the LaConner police force,” read a Renault ad touting the town’s purchase. “They needed an economical car that would help cut down on their expenses.”

“More and more departments are being faced with this budget crunch,” said LaConner police chief Russ Anderson in the ad. “Gas is killing us. With Le Car, we were able to decrease our budget and increase our mobility.”

That message resonated all the way across the United States, to the tiny town of Ogunquit, Maine. Like LaConner, Ogunquit is a small seaside resort, albeit on the opposite coast. With roughly 895 full-time, year-round residents, it’s roughly the same size as LaConner.

Ogunquit’s municipal status in relation to its surrounding community exacerbated the budget crunch that departments were facing nationwide. Since 1641, Ogunquit had been a village of the town of Wells, just a mile or so north on Maine’s Route 1. In the late 1970s, however, the residents of that village wanted to separate, and in 1980, Ogunquit finally emancipated itself from the larger town. Doing so meant that its various departments were on their own.

Police Chief William Hancock—a former Maine State Police trooper—therefore had to economize however and wherever possible. Turning to the Le Car for police cruiser duty was one of many such concessions.

“In 1981, I had my first start in law enforcement,” Thomas Hart said via phone.

Today, Hart is the Police Commissioner in busy Portsmouth, New Hampshire. In 1981, however, Hart was a summer auxiliary police officer, writing parking tickets and keeping the peace as the town’s population swelled with seasonal visitors.  Part-time officers like Hart were assigned to drive the Le Car. Full-time, permanent officers drove Ogunquit’s marginally more conventional—and only other—police car: a white Volvo 240. For the fresh-faced Hart, the Renault was a bit of a let-down: “I remember the first time I saw [the Le Car]. I thought, ‘Well, that’s different.’”

“The Le Car was a challenge for officers that were taller than 5-foot-11,” Hart says. “You felt like you were driving it from the back seat.” Renault’s Le Car only came in two-door hatchback form until 1980, but a five-door came when the U.S. version got a facelift that included rectangular headlights. Hart also remembers that the Le Car had a manual transmission, another oddity at the time for a vehicle intended for police use.

“For the most part, we used it for parking patrol and that kind of thing,” he said, noting that its 55 hp wouldn’t have been much good for high-speed pursuit. He does remember one incident where it could’ve come to that, though:

“I was parked with the Le Car outside of Ogunquit Square and we got a call from the Wells Police Department,” he told us. “They let us know that several passengers had gotten off a Greyhound bus that used to stop in Wells before making its way south through Ogunquit to Portsmouth. They called the police to tell them that the driver was intoxicated.”

The full-time officer on duty, with the Volvo, was way across town and couldn’t get back to the Square in time to pull the bus over. So that duty fell upon Officer Hart and the tiny French hatchback with the bubblegum light on its roof.

“I pulled him over as he was weaving through the Square,” he laughed. “When I got him stopped, all the passengers bailed out. The driver was definitely intoxicated and we arrested him, although we still had to wait for the Volvo because it was the only car with four doors and a back seat.”

By the mid-1980s, Ogunquit thankfully abandoned the Le Car as a police unit, moving on to a small fleet of 9C1-prepped B-Body cruisers. But for a handful of people like Police Commissioner Hart, the Le Car remains an indelible memory.

The post In the 1970s, police departments relied on the Renault Le Car appeared first on Hagerty Media.

I’ve been on the lookout for a nice, original paint Jeep CJ-5 with the 225-cu.in. “Dauntless” V-6. For the last five months, I’ve been scouring Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace and the early CJ forums for a good candidate. Because I live in New England, where even vehicles from the 2000s will corrode into a pile of dust before your eyes, my search was mostly in the parts of the country that are less susceptible to snow and road salt. I found what I was looking for: a 1966 CJ-5 Tuxedo Park Mark IV, 67,000 miles, original paint, well taken care of, at a fair price.

The big question: How to get it home?

The Options

Shipping can be a huge headache for those unfamiliar with the marketplace. There are a lot of choices out there, including different types of companies that offer different means of transporting your vehicle. In general, you have three options for hiring a shipper:

Point-to-point carriers

The concept of point-to-point shipping is simple: contract with a company that is in the business of automotive shipping, hiring them to move your car from Point A to Point B. Examples of point-to-point shippers include companies like Passport Transport or Reliable Carriers. If you’ve ever been to Barrett-Jackson or the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance, or any other major auto show, most of the vehicles that show up at these events were entrusted to point-to-point shippers like this. If cost were no object, and I was hauling a high-value car to an event across the country, I absolutely would have given one of these companies a call.

“We’re a high-end service,” Reliable Carriers’ Vice President and COO, Bob Sellers, told us in a phone interview. “If you’re looking for the lowest price, I’m probably not your guy, but know that your Jeep would get the same treatment as a $2 million Bugatti.”

Reliable has been in the business for 61 years, and it runs a state-of-the-art fleet of 325 hard-sided, liftgate trailers. “We don’t make money hauling air,” says Sellers. Thanks to satellite tracking and advanced logistics, when they get a call from a client, they’ll deploy a truck on its way from one place to another with an empty space, quickly and efficiently.

The drivers are also a Reliable advantage. “Our average driver has been with us for 10 and a half years, and we’ve got some that have driven for us for over 30,” Sellers says, and points out that at the other end of the age spectrum, the equipment is about as modern as you can get. “Our average trailer is 4.5 years old.”

Sellers notes that about 85 percent of Reliable Carriers’ business is with OEMs like Ford, Chrysler, GM, Toyota and, more recently, Porsche. That leaves 15 percent as “personally owned vehicles,” and a lot of that business happens at events like Barrett-Jackson or the Pebble Beach auctions. “We get people who have cashed out their home equity to buy the car they’ve wanted since high school. It’s their baby,” he recognizes, and their biggest concern is getting it home safely. “Our satellite tracking means that they can monitor the car’s progress, and it saves a lot of phone calls about where the car is.”

Sounds good, right? The con, obviously is cost, and we’ll get into the details of that in a bit.

Online shipping brokers

Hop onto Google indicating you’d like to ship a car, and in an instant you’ll find hundreds of vendors willing to help. Many of these outfits will offer you an online quote in seconds. Each of these companies varies in the services they offer, and the nuances between them are important. One such popular service is uShip, which is different in that it’s actually a platform, not a shipping service in its own right, that connects with carriers that are interested in shipping your vehicle.

Online brokers are what a lot of people will use when shipping a car in the hoi polloi segment of the vintage car hobby. Cost is an object for most of us, and if we can save a couple hundred bucks shipping a $6200 vehicle, it makes a significant impact on our overall investment.

Most of these companies make it easy to get an instant understanding of how much it’s going to cost to move your vehicle from one place to another. You fill out a quote request with the particulars, including location, your vehicle, its condition and the type of transport, and either instantly or via email, you get a quote with a price. Essentially, you’re posting the vehicle you want to ship, and shippers will then come at you with quotes competing for your business to ship the car. It’s up to you to choose the one that best fits your needs.

Perhaps the most challenging element here is what author Barry Schwartz titled his 2004 book, The Paradox of Choice. It’s sort of like choosing a house to rent on AirBnB. You’re presented with dozens of options, many of which look pretty good and range in cost anywhere from “How can they make money at this” to “THEY WANT HOW MUCH?” If you do some digging into reviews on those companies that are doing the actual shipping, you’ll begin to understand the truth of the adage “You get what you pay for.” Some of the shippers at the bottom end of the cost ladder have reviews that begin with ALL-CAPS warnings like “NEVER USE THIS COMPANY.” As with anything else, reviews don’t tell the full story, but the more information you have in front of you the better.

A clear downside of this marketplace approach is well known to anyone who has filled out a request with an online mortgage vendor or an extended warranty provider. Once you’ve hit the “Submit” button, you’ll be getting emails and phone calls about your shipment from now until what will feel like the end of time.

Of course, none of this is to say that online shipping vendors are bad. At the very least it’s a good idea to get a bunch of quotes from several of them to establish a baseline understanding of what shipping your car is going to cost. And if you’re willing to do the digging to find an actual shipper with a good reputation that’s suggested by an online vendors, it’s perhaps cheapest way to get your vehicle home.

Shipping brokers

With a shipping broker, part of what you pay isn’t covering the actual shipping. A portion of your fee goes to a broker who will find you an available shipper at an agreed-upon rate, without you having to research every last detail about the company responsible for hauling your car. As with online brokers, you’re likely to get texts, calls, and emails from various shipping providers for a while when you go this route. Examples of shipping brokers include J&S Transportation and Gartho Logistics.

The principal negative with an auto shipping broker is added cost. A broker is a classic middleman. You’re paying them for the service of finding you a shipper, rather than saving that fee and finding the shipper yourself. The other potential stumbling block is that you’re not dealing directly with the company performing the intended service. In a lot of cases you won’t even know what shipping company it is, because the broker does not always disclose that information. After all, with that information you could then just go out and contract with them directly, right?

The positive, though, is that this broker’s job is to deal with shipping companies. A broker’s job is, ideally speaking, to use their connections and experience to pair you up with a carrier that’s reliable and suited to your needs. These folks are also often available 24 hours a day to help when things go sideways. The big online vendors are as well, but their business relationships are often a lot less personal than the ones that small brokers have fostered with the shippers with which they’ve worked. As with any other service provider, some brokers are better than others, so ask around for recommendations (or warnings) from people. Online reviews can also be helpful in this regard.

The cost

There are several key factors that are going to impact the cost of shipping your vehicle, and these variables apply across the board, regardless of which type of shipping service you opt to enlist:

Distance

The most consequential (and most obvious) variable is how far you’re shipping a vehicle. Shipping 200 miles is, as you’d expect, going to be a lot less expensive than shipping one 2000 miles with all other things being equal. Alternatively, if you’re within 100 miles and a good relationship with a roadside assistance provider or local towing company, you can probably figure out a way haul your car home for a lot less money (or free, as I did with a ’78 Blazer with a bad radiator that I bought about 40 miles from home.)

Open vs. closed transport

There are a lot of reasons to pay for lower-risk transport. If you’re retrieving a high-end or exotic sports car, something of great personal/sentimental value, or you’re shipping a vehicle to auction for sale, you’re probably going to prefer closed transport. Naturally, closed transport offers better protection from damage in transit, whether it be a hailstorm or road debris. Of course, if you’re willing to suffer a bit of road dirt at the very least, shipping on an open trailer is going to save you a significant amount of money.

The other thing to keep in mind is that more affordable methods of transport often mean that your car will be sharing a truck with a several other vehicles. Each of these vehicles is headed to its own destination, which introduces more stops along the way that could derail the arrival time estimate your broker or shipping company provides.

Running vs. not running

If you’ve located a one-of-one barn find that won’t move under its own power, you can still find a shipper that’s willing to pick it up. It’s just a matter of additional cost.

Size

In general, a car is a car, but size does come into the cost equation if you’re shipping something like a ’71 Cadillac Fleetwood versus a ’55 Fiat 600. If you’re buying anything four-wheel drive, like our subject CJ-5, you’re also going to be asked if it’s been lifted or if it’s riding on 44-inch Super Swampers. Such details can yield an additional fee, or it can bump you from an enclosed transport to an open trailer.

We ran a cost comparison with several of the major carriers, online shipping companies, and brokers. The particulars of our shipping job:

• 1966 Jeep CJ-5
• Open transport
• Ashland, Virginia to Holliston, Massachusetts
• 514 miles
• Starting, running and stopping
• Stock height, wheels, and tire size

As you can see, the quote from Reliable was by far the highest, at almost twice what the smaller guys are charging. That’s nothing against Reliable; they offer a higher echelon of service they do a fantastic job. For this CJ-5 that’s worth $8000 on its best day, that’s simply more than I was willing to spend.

uShip was the cheapest, and I got 26 quotes for shipping through uShip in 24 hours. NINE of those quotes came from the same company—TempusLogix—and they ranged from $534 to $573. I’m not sure why one company would pitch me nine times with incrementally lower quotes. Regardless, you can save a few bucks shipping through uShip, but you’re going to be inundated with quotes to review. If you’re OK with that, this is the cheapest method.

Gartho Logistics ended up sending a quote in half an hour. At $615, it was certainly competitive with uShip, but I dealt with one guy, and he was super responsive via text and email. I was happy to spend the additional $75 or so to not have to wade through two dozen quotes.

Cost of shipping company vs. picking up

In the pre-pandemic Before Times, CJ-5 retrieval would’ve been easy. My wife, my kids, and my friends have all been on vintage car acquisition missions with me, sometimes as close as the town where I live. (Once, as far as Alabama.) I’d either rent or borrow a truck and trailer, hit the road, pick up the vehicle and make a weekend adventure out of it. That was part of the fun of buying the vehicle. Times are different now, and because I’m the sole caregiver for a 91-year old parent, the idea of a long, tiring trip punctuated by human contact, cheap hotel room stays and trips into interstate restrooms just didn’t seem prudent.

Shipping was the clear choice for me in this case regardless of financial realities, but the cost of doing it this way is worth tallying up. Let me say up front that I don’t own a truck and trailer, but I am wildly fortunate that I have a network of friends and professional acquaintances that do, and getting hold of an open car trailer would be a phone call away. My situation also isn’t common because of the fact that I write about cars and trucks for a living, and I’d have no qualms with asking a manufacturer of a new truck if I could borrow it for a few days and then write about the adventure. For those reasons I’m going to put my personal cost of getting ahold of a truck and trailer at $0, but for most people this won’t be the case .

But what about the trip? It’s 515 miles between my home in Massachusetts and Ashland, Virginia. And I’d have to do that twice. It’s conceivable that I could do that in a day, but definitely not alone, and frankly, getting someone to make the trip with me during a pandemic is a tall order. I decided I’d be better off splitting the trip into two days and finding a cheap hotel room. Let’s put that cost down at $80. (Yes, I could crash in a Walmart parking lot or something, but I’m an adult with a house and two kids. I’d like to sleep in a comfortable bed and not fight anyone for the television for one night).

The big cost was fuel. Let’s settle on a conservative estimate for fuel economy: 18 mpg. That’s high, but for argument’s sake, it’ll give us a baseline of what a 1030 mile round trip would cost. To make that trip at 18mpg, I’d need just over 57 gallons of fuel. The average fuel cost between Massachusetts and Virginia is about $2.25, according to the estimates on AAA.  That ends up being $128.75 for gas.

Using the highways aren’t free, either. I used the Tollsmart Toll Calculator to map the trip and figure out how much tolls would cost. The fee from Massachusetts to Virginia is $29.55. But that’s only half the story. The return trip from Virginia to Massachusetts is twice as much, because the tolls are more expensive in that direction. That adds up to $52.55.

In total, with a night in a hotel, gas and tolls, I’m up to $261.30, not including food along the way. If the average quote was $615, I’m only saving $353.70 to be in a truck for 20 hours.

Who I went with

I ended up booking the trip with Gartho Logistics. The main reason I did so was that I talked to fellow contributor Rob Siegel, who has shipped more cars in the last few years than I will in a lifetime. He mentioned that he had experience with Garry at Gartho Logistics and had great experiences with him over the years.

I did evaluate the quotes from all of the various carriers and brokers, and honestly, there was no meaningful price difference between some faceless company, and this guy who’s been in the auto transport business for 30 years. Gartho Logistics had a quote to me in short order via text, he followed up regularly and was quick to answer every question. I booked his carrier on a Friday, and the CJ5 was picked up the next day. It was at my house on a Monday.

One thing that you may want to understand before you choose a shipper: The CJ5 I shipped has a really narrow track width. It was built just before the wide-track CJs that came along in the 1970s. As a result, this CJ5 BARELY squeezed onto the trailer, which was open in the middle to allow for lighter weight. The right side tires were about half hanging over into the open space between the trailer ramps. If you’re shipping a small car, especially something sporty, you’d be wise to ask the carrier what the track width of the ramps are, and evaluate whether there’s adequate room.

Naturally, your mileage is going to vary depending on the time of the year, the distance you need to haul  your vehicle and a lot of other contributing factors, but the process was painless, the cost was reasonable and the effort I had to expend to get it home was pretty minimal.

Obviously, everyone will have needs and requirements specific to their circumstances, but hopefully this explainer helps clarify how to resolve a variety of shipping concerns. Whether you need to roll out the red carpet of transport or simply require that a car to get from A to B, we all want our vehicles to arrive at their destination well cared-for and with no surprises. Go forth and ship with confidence!

The post Shipping a car? Here’s how (and why) to make the right choice appeared first on Hagerty Media.

After a thunderstorm delayed my flight back to Boston, I stumbled inside my garage at 1:00 a.m. and was greeted by the unmistakable stench of old, varnished gasoline. I eventually figured out the gas was leaking from my wife’s 2001 KTM Duke II, which had been sitting for at least three years for no other reason than a busy schedule.

I looked around the garage, and there sat my most pressing project: a 1965 Chevrolet Corvair Monza, with the engine and transaxle removed, parts strewn all over the garage. A 180-degree pivot would put me face to face with my 1978 Chevrolet Blazer sitting in the driveway. It hadn’t been started more than three times in the last two months. I could see it perfectly if I looked past the 1965 Allstate scooter in my way, which had been started exactly twice since I’d done a thousand dollars’ worth of work to it in February. 

Three vehicles—four, if you count my wife’s KTM—all ostensibly purchased for entertainment purposes, and none of which were providing much in the way of entertainment at 1:06 a.m. after a long flight home. 

Too many things. Not enough time to devote to any of them.

Is it time for me to move on?

I love old vehicles with personality, but I’m typically not overly sentimental about them. It drives my wife crazy. She’s had exactly eight cars in the more than quarter-century that I’ve known her. She loves her cars and never has a minute’s thought about moving them along. I’ve had more than I can count, and the minute I get my hands on one, I’m thinking about what the next one could be. I’m more interested in the chase than I am in long-term ownership. 

Yet each of these three vehicles have managed to wedge themselves into my life, well beyond my typical relationship with a car:

1965 Allstate Scooter

I’ve owned the Allstate—which Vespa built for Sears for sale in stores in the 1960s—longer than any vehicle I have ever owned in my life. I purchased it in 1998 from my friend Bill LeBeau as a project for $300. I had just bought a house and I had no money and no space for a project car, but a $300 scooter, I could build in my basement. Bill’s got a small paint booth at his sign painting business, so I was able to paint it there. I threw in a big parts order with Scooterworks in Chicago, and that entire project ended up taking me a winter and about $1500 to complete.

I rode that bike from 2000 to 2018 without changing much more than the spark plug, but it was time to invest some money in it. The two-stroke 150-cc engine’s clutch side seal had given up, and while it was still rideable, it needed attention. I decided to spend some money on it, opting for a 177-cc piston, barrel, and head, a Sito Plus exhaust, and a Dell’Orto 24/24 carburetor. Along with recabling and resealing the entire engine, I was into it for $760 worth of parts, and a friend’s labor to help me put it together.

And I’ve ridden it twice since I got it back. The cables still aren’t adjusted properly and the carb isn’t jetted right, either. A truly miserable spring and early summer kept me from riding it at all when I had the time, and ever since, it’s just been sitting. 

Time to go? 

It’s been a part of me for so long that I can’t even think about being done with it. My dad was a Sears employee for 35 years and I’ve got a small collection of Sears stuff from that era, including this bike, a Silvertone 1457 “Amp-in-Case” guitar and amp package, and another small Silvertone tube amp, and I’m more likely to increase that collection than slim it down.

It doesn’t cost me a whole lot of money, it takes up almost no space, and it’s not really worth much more than it was when I completed it back in 2000.

This one stays. 

1965 Chevrolet Corvair Monza

The Corvair is at the opposite end of the spectrum. While I’ve had the Vespa for 20 years, I’ve only had the Corvair for two. Like the Vespa, I bought it cheap and it was from the father of a friend I went to college with. It didn’t even cost me anything to haul it home, because it sat in a garage just on the other side of town. 

When I got it home, it wasn’t running, but I knew it turned over. A soon as we got it in my garage, we put some fresh gas in it, hooked up a new battery, and within 20 minutes I had it running—not well, but running all the same. 

Over the next few weeks, I got it roadworthy and thought I’d bomb around in it for a summer and then figure out what to do with it. 

Then I started pulling threads. Maybe I should fix the leak around the oil pan. I pulled the pan off and a fairly scary piece of metal fell out, which I now think was the metal gasket between the block and the cylinder barrel. I called Hagerty contributor Rob Seigel, who ran over to my house one night and we ran a compression and leakdown test and found that I had one cylinder with zero compression. 

Now, months later, the engine and transaxle are out, the engine is disassembled, and I’m right at that point where I need to either spend a significant amount of money on it, or move it down the road to someone who’s more willing to spend the time on it than I am. 

When I ask myself if it’s time for this one to go, the answer keeps coming back, “Yes.” I love the way it looks, but in the last couple of years, it’s brought me many more headaches than it has enjoyable days. 

I’ve got a lot going on in my life, and if I’m being honest with myself, I’d rather have the garage space than the car. 

1978 Chevrolet Blazer

The other two vehicles offer much easier decisions. This one is difficult. 

I’ve had my eye on this particular truck for more than 20 years. Glenn Gould—whose parents owned the now-closed Wells Auto Museum in Wells, Maine—had it stored in a steel building in Shirley, Massachusetts. I’d gone to check out his collection of other interesting cars, but there sat this black, clean, and largely unmolested 1978 Blazer Custom Deluxe. He’d bought it from the first owner in 1979 and had driven it regularly ever since. At that time, it had about 50,000 miles on it. I mentioned that if he was ever interested in selling it, I’d be willing to make an offer. 

Almost two decades passed. I ran into Glenn at a media preview at the New England International Auto Show in Boston in 2014. “I’m thinking about selling that Blazer,” he said, true to his word all those years later. I went back out to his barn, took it for a quick ride, and we shook on a deal right on the spot. In all those years, he’d only added about 17,000 miles. 

I’m not saying it’s pristine. When I got it, 40 years of New England winters had taken their toll. The rockers were shot, the inner fenders were barely present, and it needed a radiator immediately. But the frame was perfect, and so were the floors. With a bit of effort, I figured I could make it a great driver, and that’s exactly what I got. 

I scored a bunch of sheetmetal from LMC Truck to fix the rockers and fenders, did a bunch of body repair to make it look presentable and replaced the carpet. While the seats were out, I had the trashed driver’s seat recovered by Kelly’s Upholstery in Natick, Massachusetts. I could’ve bought a kit, but it’s kind of a one-size-fits-all approach, and I’d have to replace all of it if I wanted it to match. John at Kelly’s matched the vinyl on the passenger seat and built a new seat to match the perfect upholstery on the passenger and rear seats for a lot less than a full kit would have cost. 

The next winter, I set to work making it perform a little better. The original engine worked pretty well, but the heads on it were probably the lowest performing heads Chevrolet ever put on a truck. Brian Lohnes—who’s the NHRA announcer on FOX these days—provided me a set of recently worked heads from his later 9C1 Caprice, along with an aluminum intake, a Holley carb, and a new Streetfire distributor. With a new set of cast iron manifolds and a dual exhaust, it woke up instantly and it’s been completely reliable ever since. 

I’ve had it now for about six years. Last summer, I replaced the original hard top with a vinyl top, which transformed it into a fun beach cruiser. 

Here’s my dilemma, though. In the years since I’ve owned it, these trucks have actually started to trade for real money. This is far from a pristine example, but my guess is that I could probably ask $7000 for it and send it down the road in a week. That, combined with $1500 or so from the Corvair, could fund some other, smaller vehicle in good, running condition that could provide me entertainment for many years to come. There’s a super clean 1979 Saab 99 GL for sale close by on Facebook Marketplace. I’ve also always wanted a Ural Patrol sidecar rig. Lightly used examples of those from the early 2010s sell in that price range, too.

Hit or stand? Stay or go? Hold ’em or fold ’em? The decision was easy on the other two. I’m going to be doing some soul searching to find an answer on the Blazer.

The post When to move on from a classic car appeared first on Hagerty Media.

UPDATE: We originally published this story in 2019. A lot changed with departments of motor vehicles during the pandemic, so we thought we’d take another look and update the various and sundry rules and regulations for registering a classic car in all 50 states.

There were a good handful of states – in New England particularly – that kind of flew under the radar as particularly classic car friendly, but some significant changes occurred in the last few years that changed that a bit. Specifically, Vermont closed a loophole that had previously allowed out-of-state residents to register vehicles there. Being a state that doesn’t require a title for vehicles 15 years old or older, it was a boon for people from other states that have a title requirement for all vehicles. We’ll get into greater detail in the Vermont section but suffice it to say that states are making it harder to register our older vehicles without titles.

What we wanted to figure out was whether your state was actually classic vehicle friendly and rank all 50 states by its overall consideration for older car owners. Some of our criteria are objective: Is there an emissions process? Is there a sales tax? Several of the criteria were more subjective: How car-friendly is the weather? How pleasant are the roads?

Our methodology took these items into account:

Registration: For classic car registration restrictions, we looked to every DMV website, and in some cases the state laws that govern them. If there were no restrictions, the state got 100 points. If there were restrictions for “parades and special events,” the state gets a 75. If there were day of the week and holiday restrictions, the score went to 50.

Inspections:  States typically either require a safety and/or emissions inspection or they don’t. For this yes or no question, a state either gets 100 points for No or zero points for Yes.

Sales tax: If the state has zero sales tax, it got 100 points. We took off 10 points for every percent of sales tax. Since it’s difficult – nigh on impossible — to build city and county taxes in, we indicated it in the text, but they’re not part of the score.

Title requirement: Some states (Vermont, for instance) don’t require a title for vehicles over a certain age. They got 100. Some states allow a surety bond. They got 50%. Some states like Massachusetts will not register a car without a title at all. They got zero.

Road quality and traffic: For road quality and traffic, we looked at the US News & World Report’s Transportation Ranking.

Weather: For weather, we checked the state’s annual snow and rainfall at Current Results.

Finally, we searched every state’s DMV website for information and talked to classic vehicle owners where we could for their opinions. Then we assigned a number grade for every criterion and averaged each out to come up with an overall score.

With nine categories and a possible 100-point score for each, a home run would be 900 points. No state achieved that lofty score, but several crossed the 800-point threshold. Two states didn’t manage 50 percent of the available points and Massachusetts – where this story is currently being revised? It’s only getting worse.

Which state is the most classic car friendly? Some of the answers may surprise you and the entire top ten is a little perplexing (We’re looking at you, Alaska).

From lowest score to highest, here’s how the states shook out:

Data is subject to change. Content is intended for informational purposes only. Check with your local motor vehicle department for current information.

50. Massachusetts

We can tell you from first-hand experience over the last 40 years of operating a motor vehicle that Massachusetts isn’t a great place to own a classic vehicle. The weather is the biggest disadvantage, as is MassDOT and the local highway departments, which blast the road surfaces with salt more or less constantly from November to April.

If that’s not bad enough, the Registry of Motor Vehicles is notoriously awful, assessing a 5.5% sales tax not on what you paid for your car, but what some arbitrary price guide says it’s worth. Williamstown resident David LaChance registered a 1966 Volvo P1800 project car that he hauled home on a trailer and wouldn’t be roadworthy for years. “They taxed it like it was a Pebble Beach candidate. Oh, yeah — they said don’t bother trying to appeal it.”

The one nice thing about Massachusetts is its rolling emissions requirement. If the car is older than 15 years old, you’re mostly in the clear. The emissions equipment that came on the car is supposed to still be there, but the inspection stations – all privately owned gas stations – aren’t likely to check. Massachusetts does have a mandated safety inspection. Your experience getting a sticker can be wildly different from shop to shop, so if you find one that’s willing to adhere a sticker to your windscreen with minimal fuss, stick with them.

49. California

Weather and the lack of a safety inspection is the only reason that classic car ownership in California is as good as it is. Everything else is a major impediment to driving a vintage vehicle.

Cars from 1975 or newer must have all of the original emissions equipment present on the vehicle when it was new when the car goes through a mandatory smog check. Frankly, we didn’t even check whether California requires a title from other states when registering a classic car, because the hassle of registering a post-1975 car from another state makes it not worth it. California is generally a classic car exporter rather than importer solely because of the smog regulations.

That’s not a bad thing for clean air, but it’s a really bad thing if you’re just trying to register a car for occasional use.

48. New Jersey

New Jersey is not particularly unfriendly to vintage cars. It offers historic plates and a lot of classic car owners seem to have them, likely because the registration fee is only $44, versus up to $84 depending on the year and weight of the vehicle. There’s also a Street Rod plate available for just $15, but it’s for vehicles built prior to 1949 that are registered in a NJ street rod club, or an affiliate of the National Street Rod Association.

The state follows the OBD-II era, 1996 or newer only requirement for emissions testing, which is great for most classic vehicle owners. Sales tax is steep at 6.625%, but there’s no annual excise tax.

Greg Giacchi owns a Datsun 280Z, a second generation Supra and a second-generation Trans Am, and comments, “No complaints here in NJ. Cars older than 25 years have antique status, which means no safety inspections and registration renewals are spaced out to either 3 or 5 year intervals. Overall I find this state to be lenient on vintage car ownership.” (Ed. Note: Since we originally ran this, it appears that the state’s classic vehicle registration runs for three years, but there’s no fee for renewal, another distinct Garden State benefit.)

We searched high and low on the DMV’s website and couldn’t find any exemption for titles, regardless of year, though. That can pose a real issue if you’re buying a vehicle from a state that doesn’t issue a title for an older car. Greg agrees: “I’ve only tried to register a vintage snowmobile without a title and that was a mess. They wanted me to place an ad in the newspaper public notices for 4 weeks before allowing me to proceed.” Oof.

New Jersey is congested, it’s a pretty small state and most of it is squeezed between major cities like New York, Philadelphia and Baltimore. However, despite its reputation, New Jersey is a beautiful state away from the cities and does offer some nice driving.

47. Texas

Texas likes to brand itself as this free-wheeling Libertarian paradise, but registering a vintage car is just as complicated and costly as any other state, and sometimes more confusing.

We talked to Peter McCoullogh, who provided a ton of information about the law and how it’s practically enforced in Texas.

Sales tax for vintage cars is calculated on your bill of sale, which is a lot more legitimate that using some bogus price guide. “Texas has a SPV (Standard Presumptive Value) system to calculate sales tax values on most vehicles, but they do not use this system for anything 25+ years old. They will instead just charge you 6.25% of your indicated sale price, like most states normally practice,” Peter says.

The Lone Star State also has four different ways you can register a classic car. You can register it normally and pay a normal registration fee. You can register it as a Classic, which is for cars 25 years old or older for $40 per year with no driving restrictions. Or you can register it as an Antique for $10 per year – actually a $50 registration fee that’s good for five years before it has to be renewed — with the “exhibitions and special events” restrictions most states have. If your vehicle was manufactured before 1921, the fee drops to $40 for five years.

“Texas State Troopers have an absolute field day enforcing this,” according to Peter. “Counties like Harris and Ft. Bend are cracking down through their own law enforcement policy. Most people who abuse Antique Plates use the ‘I’m driving home from my mechanic’ excuse when they’re, but they’ve heard every excuse in the book. Unfortunately, enforcement is noticeably selective. The guy who drives his ’70 Nova to work and back every day will likely go a decade unscathed, but the dude in the FB RX7 wouldn’t last a week. If and when you do get busted, the officer has the right to impound your vehicle, and write you a citation for no registration.”

Texas ranks 37^th and 38^th in the US for commute time and road quality, so when you do get your classic registered, it doesn’t sound like you’ll have a great time driving it.

46. Vermont

Vermont has undergone one of the biggest, most painful changes for vintage car owners. The issue is not for residents, but non-residents who used to be able to register just about anything by taking a road trip to the state’s southernmost Department of Motor Vehicles. That loophole that allowed out-of-state registrations has closed, so if you had considered registering your classic vehicle without a title in that state, in order to get a valid registration that you could use to get your vehicle registered at home, you’re out of luck.

Vermont is deceiving because its numerical score is so low. What makes it great is how easy it is to deal with the DMV. The staff is generally terrific and the lines are amazingly short. There’s also no title required for anything 25 years old or older, although there’s an “Exempt Vehicle Title” form to fill out.

The problem is that the weather is not conducive to vintage vehicle operation from late October straight into May some years. Not only does it snow like crazy, most of the back roads are dirt and they turn to axle-snapping mud for about a month and a half after the snow melts. Many main roads can be completely buckled with frost heaves in the winter and spring.

On the plus side, traffic is generally light outside of the “cities” like Brattleboro and Burlington, and Vermont offers some of the greatest driving roads in New England when the weather is decent. (ED NOTE: Watch out, though. In the seven years your author was a resident of Vermont, he got more speeding tickets in that state than in any of the nearly 40 years of driving he’d done in Massachusetts and Maine.)

“Vermont pretty much leaves me alone,” says Michael Eldred, who has a handful of British cars registered in Southern Vermont. “Neither of my two pre-1960 vehicles needs to have seat belts retrofitted or pass any kind of emissions test to pass its annual safety inspection,” he says. “You can register your vehicle as an antique and pay a reduced fee, but that only entitles you to drive your vehicle in parades and to shows. As a result, few people register their antique cars as antiques.”

45. Tennessee

“Tennessee is pretty good,” says our vintage motorcycle collecting pal Somer Hooker. “Antique is over 25 years of age. You fill out an affidavit that it will only be driven on weekends or special events.” From there, the tag fee is a one-time event, with no renewal required. However, that’s only good for weekends and special events, and according to Somer, “If you are caught using on a regular basis it can be revoked.” The state notes that if that happens, you’re responsible for all the fees to register the vehicle as a general use vehicle.

“Vehicles over 25 years old can be titled on a Bill of Sale,” Somer notes. Tennessee abandoned emissions testing since the last time we posted this, so there’s no longer a requirement, regardless of your classic vehicle’s age.

Depending on where you are, you may see a couple of inches of snow a year in most of Tennessee, and the roads can be pretty spectacular. However, the tradeoff is Nashville. Traffic in and around the city can be outrageous.

44. Missouri

Missouri has some pretty stringent restrictions that come along with getting Historic plates, with no real obvious benefits for doing so, other than avoiding an annual registration renewal. The DVM’s website doesn’t say you can’t drive the car on a weekday, but if you’re driving it to a shop, it has to be within 100 miles of home, and you’re limited to just 1,000 miles of driving per year. The mileage restriction alone might steer you away from getting such a plate. A thousand miles a year isn’t much.

Taxation is also pretty brutal in Missouri, depending on your county. The state assesses a 4.25% sales tax, but then there are 24 pages worth of county taxes to research to find out how much more you owe. A cursory search reveals that your additional sales tax can be up to 5.5130%. There’s a handy tax calculator to figure out how much you’re going to owe.

One bit of good news is that Missouri allows an owner to bond a title if the original title isn’t present, making it much more friendly to register a car than some of the states in the Northeast, which just tell you to hit the bricks if you don’t have a title.

Historic registration doesn’t appear to get you out of the state’s biennial safety inspection, but you do avoid the emissions inspection in St. Louis, St. Louis County, St. Charles County or Jefferson County if your car is from 1996 or older. Throw in the average foot of snow lots of places in Missouri get every year and it’s not particularly old car friendly.

43. Hawaii

Hawaii is a weird state in terms of registering a car. There’s no state DMV, for example. Each island – essentially individual counties – runs its own licensing division. Trying to track down exactly what requirements they have is tricky.

Honolulu says “The vehicle must be a bona fide antique as defined in Section 249-1, HRS. ‘Antique motor vehicle’ means any motor vehicle of the age of thirty-five years or more from the date of manufacture, that is of the original factory specification or restored to the original specifications in an unaltered or unreconstructed condition, operated or moved on the highway primarily for the purpose of historical exhibition or other similar purposes.”

There are some beautiful roads in Hawaii, but US News & World Report ranks both the traffic and road quality near the bottom.

39. South Dakota

South Dakota’s historic vehicle plates apply to cars 30 years old or older. The sales tax is reasonable at 4.5%, but there’s also a steep excise tax of 4% that makes this one of the most tax-heavy states in the Union when registering a car.

The restrictions on classic vehicle plates seem relatively familiar, though there’s some room for interpretation. There’s no mileage restriction, for example, and the requirement says that you can’t use this registration for “daily transportation” to work. But if you took it to work a few Fridays a month through the summer, does that count as “daily transportation?”

South Dakota does require a title and doesn’t seem to be particularly helpful in providing information if you happen to have a car that either came from a state that doesn’t issue one for older cars or is missing its original title. That may or may not be a problem when the time comes to register it, but it’s tough to tell without some kind of documentation.

South Dakota ranked #1 in America for length of commute time, so traffic isn’t an issue, according to US News & World Report. It ranks about mid-pack in terms of road quality. The 45 inches of snow the state accumulates every year probably doesn’t help.

39. Maryland

Maryland has the same “weekends, holidays, and special events” clauses that most other states have, which means that you might not want to bother getting the antique or street rod plates if you plan on driving it to work occasionally.

It appears that Maryland requires a title for everything, regardless of age since there’s no exemption listed on the state’s page for registering a classic vehicle.

What’s nice about Maryland, though, is that it assesses its 6% sales tax on the value stated on the bill of sale if the vehicle is over seven years old. That’s a nice advantage when the NADA book value on a classic vehicle assumes that it’s in concours-ready condition, while you went and bought a $1,500 beater that you’re hoping to drive as you restore it.

The weather’s decent in coastal Maryland most of the year and snow isn’t that much of a concern, but Oakland County in the western part of the state gets an average of 80 to 100 inches of snow a year, leaving classic vehicles in the barn for a good chunk of the year.

39. Pennsylvania

Perhaps it’s because of things like the Hershey swap meet, the AACA headquarters, and the Carlisle events, but there seem to be more classic cars in Pennsylvania than just about anywhere. Does that have anything to do with how easy it is to register a classic vehicle there? Probably not.

Pennsylvania has two different vintage vehicle designations (Antique and Classic) with different restrictions. Classic car tags are available for anything older than 15 years old. Antique plates are for 25 years old or older.

The restrictions say that the “occasional use” of a classic or antique vehicle is “no more than one day a week” in bold letters, which seems pretty restrictive. “Classic cars have a permanent registration but require yearly inspection,” Brian Padnes learned after registering his 1984 Land Rover. “Inspections can be done by any licensed shop so most are kind to older vehicles. Antique are emissions exempt and I believe classic are too as they fall into the ‘drive less than 5k miles’ category for PA.”

Tax is pretty significant, too. There’s no excise tax, but the state sales tax is 6%. Registering a car in Allegheny County means you’ll pay an additional percent on top of that. If you register in Philadelphia, it’s 2% on top. “For cars older than 1976 (the last year the plates were dated) you can restore an old license plate for the vehicle with a year that matches,” Brian tells us. “I got my father an old dealer plate for his 1972 Volvo P1800ES.”

39. Indiana

Indiana has a historic vehicle registration program that requires you don’t use the car for daily transport, but other than that it doesn’t place any restrictions on days of the week or holidays. But there’s not much of a reason to get one, since you’re still going to pay the standard registration fee, excise tax, county tax, and another municipal excise tax.

The state does have an emissions program in two counties (Lake and Porter) and inspects cars for emissions every other year from 1975 forward, meaning you’ve got to have all of your original emissions equipment in place. Don’t toss those AIR pumps.

Tax is pretty hefty at 7% in Indiana, and on top of that, you owe an excise tax every year, but for vehicles older than 1980, it’s a $12 per year flat tax.

Indiana does require a title when you go to register your classic car. There doesn’t appear to be any exemption for age, so get that paperwork in order. With 22 inches of snow and 39 inches of rain every year, Indiana’s weather isn’t the greatest, but outside of the cities, the roads are well maintained and traffic isn’t absurd.

36. Rhode Island

Rhode Island gets a high numerical grade, mostly because of its relaxed Antique Vehicle requirements. If the vehicle is 25 years old or older, you can register it as an antique and skate on the state’s safety inspection requirements. However, if you do get it inspected, you can use it as a regular vehicle. If you don’t, the language from the DMV site notes: “The vehicle may be maintained solely for use in exhibitions, club activities, parades and other functions of public interest,” which isn’t great.

But the very next sentence says: “The vehicle may also be used for limited enjoyment and purposes other than the previously mentioned activities, but may not be used primarily for the transportation of passengers or goods over any public highway.”

This means as long as you’re not using it as a limousine or a cargo vehicle, you should be fine, although David Dennis does have a warning. “If you have a car that is 25 years old, but isn’t considered a ‘classic’ (think Honda CRX, or any average car from 1994), the police generally don’t know the actual rules and it can be a pain. I haven’t been targeted specifically, but have friends who regularly have arguments with officers trying to ticket him unlawfully despite the folder of information he carries with him at all times to show them.”

Where it falls apart is taxation. The state places a 7% sales tax on every vehicle, and you pay the higher of either the purchase price or the CPI Black Book. The CPI Black Book does have three grades of vehicle (Fair, Good, and Excellent), but basically overvalues anything that might be considered a restoration project. There is a Valuation Appeal process, but if it’s like every other state we have experience with, it’s not worth the time to fill out the paperwork.

The Ocean State also assesses a labyrinthine excise tax every year. Good luck figuring out how to determine how much you owe. If you can read this and make any sense of it, we’d suggest getting an advanced math degree because you’ve earned it.

36. North Carolina

North Carolina is really light on the information on its DMV site. We heard from Eric Seeger that the state is “rather friendly to antique cars. I learned this with a 1989 Grand Wagoneer and a 1992 BMW 525i wagon. If your vehicle is pre-OBDII, they require an annual “safety” inspection which can be done at any number of state-licensed privately-owned shops for probably less than $25.” Further research reveals that the cost for a safety inspection is a totally convenient and not at all arbitrary $13.60 in North Carolina, so make sure to have some change in the ashtray.

Sales tax is also remarkably low at 3% of the purchase price.  You’re also responsible for a “property tax” that can vary significantly based on where the county you reside in and the calculated value of the vehicle.

The state has a Property Tax Estimator online. We plugged in a $10,000 value in Charlotte and came out with an estimated tax of $167.87. Over a period of years, that’s a pretty hefty tax liability, especially if your car is worth some money.

The state’s inspection consists of a technician making sure that basic things are in order: tires are not bald, blinkers and wipers work.” Period-correct emissions equipment is supposed to be in place, as well, but that’s largely left up to the shop doing the inspection.

36. New Hampshire

Go one state north of Massachusetts and the weather gets even worse, locking a good percentage of the state in snow and ice for almost half the year, from just north of the state capitol in Concord all the way to the Canadian border.

We were a little unfair in our “poor” road quality assessment the last time. It mostly has to do with roads being damaged by the weather, which isn’t the fault of the state. We boosted the score by 25 points because whoever paves the roads in New Hampshire is a master of the craft. Fresh asphalt in New Hampshire is like a billiard table and you’ll know it instantly when you cross the border from Vermont, Massachusetts, or Maine.

Kristen Pratt said that registering her 1978 Jeep CJ-5 was a piece of cake. “Super easy to register here. Just need title (or bill of sale if applicable) for registration tags. Inspection is just like my 2018 Jeep, lights, tires, brakes etc. no emissions requirement,” she says. The title requirement is only for vehicles 20 years old or newer. New Hampshire doesn’t issue a title for vehicles older than that, either, so you save the title fee when you register. “NH has no sales or excise tax, they just have one registration fee, which is scaled according to age and value,” she says.

The one caveat, though is that while NH doesn’t have a sales tax, its registration fees can be pricey and weirdly kept a secret until you show up at city hall to register.

35. New York

New York is rather notorious for its sales tax, but the state only assesses a sales tax of 4%. The issue is the additional use tax tacked on by the county, which can be up to 4.5%. However, that means you don’t have an annual excise tax bill to pay, so when you compare it to a state like Massachusetts, it ends up being mostly a wash.

The title situation isn’t great, though. Where most states in the Northeast have a 20 or 25-year-old or newer title requirement, New York rolls that all the way back to 1972, making a valid title required paperwork if you’re looking to buy a vehicle out of state. Even for vehicles built before 1972, you need to fill out a Certification (Affidavit) of Sale or Transfer and a Title Application.

We gave New York a “Good” rating for Road Quality and Traffic, despite having one of the most traffic congested regions in America. That said, it’s a huge state, and it offers some amazing driving once you get outside of New York City and Albany. The run west along the Erie Canal basically parallels I-90, but get off the highway and explore some of New York’s state highways like NY Rte. 31 in western New York; NY Rte. 5 and 5S in the Mohawk Valley; NY Rte. 48, 481, and County Rte 57 along the Oswego Canal; NY Rte. 4 along the Champlain Canal. Truly beautiful. The southernmost part of NY west of Watkins Glen offers a low population and beautiful scenery.

34. Illinois

When we first wrote this we offered kudos to Illinois Secretary of State Jesse White for providing a thorough brochure on vintage car registration in the state of Illinois. Sadly, though, it looks like it hasn’t been updated since then, meaning all of the dates on the page are at least four years old. The long and short of it is that for $30, you can get a vintage car tag for five years, which is a pretty significant savings over a regular registration.

Sales tax is pricey, though. Illinois has a 7.25% sales tax to start with, and the county can ring you up for another quarter to three-quarters of a percent. If you live within the city of Chicago, there’s another 1.25% added on.

Despite Ferris Bueller’s adventure in the Ferrari, the weather and traffic in Chicago is brutal on a vintage car. Once you’re outside the city the roads open up, but it’s still a pretty short season, with 38 inches of snow in the middle of the state.

33. Virginia

Virginia is pretty clear about its antique plate usage and it’s not great news for people who like to drive. First of all, the statue says you can’t “exceed 250 miles from your residence.” Secondly, you can’t use your classic vehicle for general, daily transportation which “includes, but is not limited to, driving to and from work.” You can also use a pre-1976 Virginia license plate if you’d rather not use the state’s antique plates. If you’re planning on using your vehicle for more than just parades, that’s the route to take because it allows you to go through the regular inspection process.

Nevertheless, there’s a significant advantage to obtaining antique plates: you avoid the state’s annual safety inspection. Older vehicles are also exempt from the state’s emissions testing program, although, unlike many states that only make cars from the OBD-II era comply (beginning in 1996), Virginia pushes that back to 25 years.

Sales tax is relatively low at 4.15%. If the vehicle is more than five years old, the tax is calculated based on a state-provided Vehicle Price Certification form, so you’re not left to the inconsistent values in a NADA price guide, especially if your car is less than perfect. Like Maryland, a lot of places in Virginia get snow in the winter, so you’ll have your classic car stored at least a few months during the year.

32. South Carolina

South Carolina is a pretty great place to have a vintage vehicle. It does have the familiar weekends, holidays and special events restrictions for antique vehicle registration, but the fees are just $10 for registration and $15 for a title. You can get a Year of Manufacture plate for anything over 30 years old. That allows you to avoid the weekends and holidays restrictions, but you pay a fee just the way you would for a normal registration.

Beyond that, the Palmetto State did away with its safety inspection back in the mid-1990s. You can argue that’s not a great thing for road safety in general, but not having to worry about it or pay for it every year is a boon to classic car owners here. There’s also no emissions requirement, meaning South Carolina vintage car owners skate on all the annual annoyances, regardless of how old their car is.

Sales tax is moderate at just 5%, and outside of Charlotte, the roads are in comparably decent shape and uncrowded. The higher elevations get snow, but for the most part, South Carolina’s coastal communities will go years without seeing the white stuff.

30. Florida

Florida’s weather alone makes it friendly to vintage cars. The state has several designations for older cars including Antique, Street Rod, and Horseless Carriage for cars manufactured before 1945.

On the one hand, it’s hard to see why bother getting an antique plate, because the state has neither a safety nor an emissions inspection program at all, never mind for vintage cars. But you’ll want the plate to save on what Florida calls the “Initial Registration,” a hefty $225 fee it collects the first time you register your car in the state. That fee is waived for cars bearing antique plates, and the fees for Antique, Street Rod, and Horseless Carriage tags are permanent, meaning you pay them once and you’re good for the entire time you own it.

The bad news is that – according to the application – everything needs an existing title, a hurdle that’s a challenge for a lot of people who buy a restoration project with plans to register it at some point in the future.

Florida gets essentially no snow every year, and outside the cities the roads are in great shape.

30. Maine

Several things have changed in Maine that owners of classic vehicles need to pay attention to. The big one is that the state is arbitrarily refusing to register Japanese kei-class trucks like the Subaru Sambar and Mitsubishi Minicab, which have been incredibly popular there thanks to four-wheel drive and efficient operation.

It’s a huge issue that’s eventually going to either bite the state or owners of ALL vehicles that meet the DOT’s 25-year cutoff for legal importation. Maine has not only refused to register these vehicles but has gone so far as to cancel the plates on vehicles it previously registered.

Like the pandemic, this contagion has spread to other states, making it harder to register these vehicles. Under the guise of “safety” the American Association of Motor Vehicle Administrators (AAMVA – you know, the people who like the tax and licensing revenues from new vehicles that cost an average of $45,000 in 2023) has been advising its members to not register these vehicles at all.

Outside of having a requirement that you have a daily driver to get antique plates, Maine is pretty light on the antique plate restriction, but it does require a safety inspection of all vehicles. Emissions tests are only required in Cumberland County (where Portland is, basically), and only for cars newer than 1996. There’s a sales tax and an excise tax, but you don’t need a title for anything older than 1996, so if you buy an older car from Maine, you’ll only need a current registration and a bill of sale, and honestly, we registered a vehicle there without a current reg.

One fact interesting to owners of trailered cars is that anybody can register a trailer in the State of Maine, regardless of your state of residence. The fees are super cheap, so if your state dings you for registering your wacky single-wheel trailer you tow behind your Beetle, give Maine a shot.

We dropped the road quality number into the “Fair” territory because Maine roads especially in the southern portion of the state – where the people live — are getting pretty rough.

Andrew Baca has a bunch of vintage scooters, a Corvair Greenbrier van, and now a Corvair-powered UltraVan registered in Maine. “One weird thing in Maine is that you can use a vintage plate on your antique vehicle as long as you keep the official plate in the vehicle,” he says. “I find this odd. They would not let me register the vehicle with the vintage plate.”

29. Washington

Washington would get a much higher score if traffic and road conditions weren’t rated 42nd and 40th by the U.S. News & World Report. The restrictions on classic car registration include “club activities, exhibitions, tours, parades, and occasional pleasure driving,” but there isn’t a day-of-the-week or non-holiday clause like some other states.

Jason Bagge has owned and registered hundreds of classic cars in Washington and suggests the way to register one is to find a set of correct year plates for your car’s model year and register it that way. “A collector plate limits you to non-daily use,” he says, “but what if you buy a set of old school plates that were made when the car was new, you can register them as ‘restored’ plates. These are daily driver plates that can still wear original 1970s tabs.”

For 38 years, Washington had an emissions testing program, but it was eliminated on January 1, 2020, for all vehicles, in all counties.

We’re giving the state a full “No” for a title requirement to register a classic car. Technically you do need a title, but if you don’t have one you can register the car for three years without one at all, or get a bonded title, as spelled out in Washington Administrative Code Title 308  Chapter 56A Section 210.

28. Connecticut

We were ready to hammer Connecticut because its Department of Motor Vehicles is notoriously awful. (Ed. Note: Still is. At the time of this writing, the Classic Vehicle Registration section of the CT DMV’s website offered nothing but a helpful runtime error.)

But a handful of Constitution State residents chimed in to defend its honor on a couple of counts. First off, Connecticut has a long history of offering a major tax break on vintage cars. For tax purposes, a vehicle that is older than 20 years old and historically significant only has a tax value of $500. That can save a lot of bucks versus registering a vehicle just a few miles north in Massachusetts, where a $500 Falcon can easily cost a multiple of that in sales tax based on the book value of a fully restored vehicle.

Dillon Troxell weighed in that you get that tax break whether you decide to get “Early American Vehicle” or “Classic Vehicle” plates, which don’t carry any significant restrictions to use. David Pollock notes that while a current registration is required if a vehicle is old enough to not need a title, Connecticut will “give you an affidavit that the seller fills out and gets notarized,” which is a whole lot better than a lot of states.

Dillon Troxell notes, “Car registration is the only thing CT doesn’t kill you on (yet).”

27. Delaware

Delaware’s numerical score is slightly downgraded mostly because of the restrictions on classic vehicle registrations. Antique vehicle registration is open to anything older than 25 years, but the restrictions are fairly well defined: Cars with an antique plate “shall be used only for participation in club activities, exhibits, tours, parades, and similar uses, but in no event shall it be used for general transportation,” according to the Delaware DMV. Delaware also offers “Street Rod” registration for 1970 or older vehicles that have been extensively modified.

The title requirement is not good, though. From what we can see, everything requires a title, regardless of its age. That’s a challenge if you’ve bought a restoration project.

Delaware gets good marks for sales tax. However, it does charge a “Documentation Fee,” which is 4.5% of the vehicle sale price, or the NADA value, whichever is higher. Call it what you like, but that’s still a tax. Antique registration means that you pay $25 once for an inspection, and never have to pay for it again.

Delaware’s weather is better in the winter months than most of the Northeast states, extending the driving season by a month or so.

26. Wisconsin

Wisconsin hates round numbers, apparently, because it charges a 5 percent sales tax, plus a .5% county tax. As of April 2020, the state no longer charges a .1% “Stadium Tax” to register a car. The Stadium Tax afforded Wisconsin residents the privilege of paying for the $290 million Miller Park for the last 25 years, all to watch the Brewers lose in the playoffs every time they get there (This year it was to the Arizona Diamondbacks.)

But we digress. Wisconsin also has antique vehicle registration, but only for cars built before 1945. There’s no safety or emissions to avoid (unless your car is from 1996 or later, and you live near Milwaukee).

There’s a title requirement, but in recent years, it’s gotten a lot easier to buy a heap without a title and register it legally. The process requires a surety bond worth 1.5 times the value of the vehicle (which comes from a price guide with the vehicle in “number 5 or 6” condition). A vehicle valued at $5,000 to $6,000 could get a surety bond for around $100. With that in place, you can get yourself a title. That’s a major convenience versus many other states that won’t give you the time of day without a title.

Wisconsin weather is completely offensive to old car ownership, though. You’ll probably forget what the car looks like it’s in storage so long.

25. Louisiana

According to what we could find on the Louisiana DMV website getting a vintage vehicle plate is slightly more involved than other states. The state requires that you fill out an affidavit that says you haven’t modified the vehicle from its original form.

If the vehicle is 25 years old or older, you don’t need a title to register, but again, that requires some paperwork. You need an affidavit signifying a physical inspection by the police, a notarized bill of sale, and a statement saying you’re part of a classic car club, which appears to be unique to Louisiana. And those vintage vehicle tags come with a significant set of restrictions now: “… such vehicle shall be used primarily for special occasions such as exhibitions, club activities, parades, or other functions of the public interest, or for necessary testing, maintenance, and storage purposes.”

There’s no emissions testing requirement, but vehicles built after 1980 have to have their original emissions equipment present during the annual safety inspection in Ascension, East Baton Rouge, Iberville, Livingston, and West Baton Rouge counties.

Tax can get rather expensive, too. The state assesses a 4% sales tax, but counties can hold you up for up to an additional 6% in sales tax depending on where you live.

24. Oklahoma

We gave Oklahoma a hard time the last time we ran this story because it seemed to want to keep any information about registering a classic car under heavy wraps until you’ve stood in line for three hours at the DMV. There’s more information in a PDF provided by the state now, but it’s still pretty slim. Most states cut you a break by making classic registrations a one-time fee, but not Oklahoma. It’s a $19 annual fee. If you want it for ten years, it’s $86, which saves you over a hundred bucks in registration fees, but you’re better off in other states that have a one-time fee.

Despite what appears in our scorecard, Oklahoma DOES require a title for classic cars, but it also accepts a nominally priced surety bond in place of a title if the car you’re interested in is missing one (something to keep in mind when negotiating a price with a seller.)

The traffic in Oklahoma is generally pretty light, which scored the state an 11^th ranking in US News & World Report. Its road quality is pretty dismal, though, placing it 37^th in the US.

23. Michigan

Considering it’s locked in snow for four months a year, the roads are in deplorable condition and – well, Detroit – Michigan fares well in the vintage vehicle friendliness rankings, mostly because of the registration requirements.

“I had a super easy time getting a title for a Honda S90 I bought with a bill of sale several years back,” Evan McCausland tells us. The state does require you to fill out the Uniform Surety Bond in lieu of a title. The requirements for a Historic vehicle plate are kind of remarkable. Yes, you’re only supposed to be using the car for events and pleasure driving, but there’s no distinction on what days of the week you can drive it.

What’s really interesting in Michigan is the month of August: With a Historic plate, you can drive your car every day, including for general transportation to and from work. That’s a pretty sweet deal, especially if you’re headed to the Woodward Dream Cruise in the middle of the month.

22. Georgia

In almost every instance, Georgia rocks as far as classic vehicle ownership goes. Georgia doesn’t appear to have an annual safety inspection, nor does it have emissions requirements (A) for vehicles older than 1996 or (B) for any vehicles registered outside the Atlanta Metro area.

We placed an asterisk next to the classic vehicle restrictions section because they weren’t evident on the DMV website. Your mileage here may vary. The plates are comparatively expensive versus other states – $80 up front and $55 to renew every year – and don’t really provide any benefits since you’re not avoiding inspections.

Joe Severns noted that years ago, he only needed a bill of sale on a 1964 Mercedes-Benz Heckflossë some years ago, but the state’s website notes that titles are required for 1962 and newer cars now. “As the car had been a barn car (that ran and moved under its own power – but lacked safe brakes, tires and working safety belts,” he says. “Maybe Ralph Nader should have lobbied Georgia for a safer registration process that would include a safety inspection. Ad valorem taxes may also be required depending on the year of the vehicle. ’The government do take a bite.’”

That seven percent sales tax is applied at registration and is calculated by the state, not your bill of sale, which isn’t great, depending on which wildly inaccurate source the state bases its value on.

On the plus side, Georgia gets about 2.9 inches of snow every year, so you’re safe never really storing the car for the winter, and outside of Atlanta Metro, the roads in the region are spectacular.

21. West Virginia

West Virginia does have $66.50 per year antique vehicle restrictions that conform with the “weekends, holidays, and special events” restrictions of other states in the region, but the requirements don’t seem as strict as those laid out in Virginia.

You can either select the antique plates provided by the state or if you have a 1973 or earlier vehicle, you can opt for plates with a year marking that matches the year of your vehicle.

West Virginia doesn’t have an emissions inspection, so you don’t have to worry about that at all if your vintage car interests include cars from the 1990s. Unfortunately, it appears that West Virginia still requires titles for anything, so that may put a wrinkle in your plans. If you opt for the antique plates, you don’t have to worry about safety inspections, either. The sales tax is relatively spendy at 6%, but it appears to be calculated on the bill of sale, which is a huge advantage versus calculation by a NADA price guide.

West Virginia has some of the most amazing roads in the East, and traffic is relatively light compared to other states in the mid-Atlantic region. The weather cooperates most of the year, but you’ll definitely see snow a few months out of the year.

20. Kansas

Kansas is another state that actually seems motivated to provide information to its constituents about registering classic cars. Not only does it have a clearly written statute laying out the lenient requirements and restrictions for historic plates (KSA 8-172, if you’re interested), but the Kansas Highway Patrol has provided an excellent pamphlet on title requirements. Whether you have an out-of-state title or a Bill of Sale, you’re required to have the VIN inspected by the Highway Patrol. Antique plates are available for a $40 one-time fee, avoiding annual renewals.

That’s the plus side. On the negative side is Rick Lyda’s experience: “I brought my ‘61 Willys CJ5 to Kansas from Colorado,” he says. “I had to get it inspected by the Highway Patrol before I could tag it. They only do inspections on Tuesday and Thursday between nine and noon. That made me have to pay two days extra trailer rental and miss a day of work just to get the pleasure of paying $25 and spending a half hour arguing with the guy about the six-digit VIN.”

The roads rank pretty high according to US News and World Report at #15, and the commute time is the 8^th best in America.

19. Iowa

Iowa has Antique vehicle registration, but we’re not sure there’s any point to obtaining it other than vanity.

After 2009, if you get Antique plates, you’re subject to the restrictions (only driven to and from state and county fairs or educational exhibits, must never use it as daily transport), but the fee is the same as any regular car. It doesn’t look like there’s any break on the 5% sales tax, either. Iowa House Bill 2251 introduced the idea of a cheaper state-provided year of manufacture plate, but that bill appears to have gone nowhere since 2022.

According to the state’s general laws, Iowa requires a title for all vehicles at the time of registration and there’s no language obvious that allows any kind of surety bond in its place.

Add that Iowa gets 39 inches of rain and 29 inches of snow every year, and you’re looking at a pretty low score.

18. Colorado

Colorado is like most other states in that it offers a Historic vehicle tag with a few minor restrictions. There are some confusing instructions to keep in mind, though:

The state has a graduated emissions testing program for cars in nine counties in populated areas. Vehicles older than 1975 registered as collector cars are exempt from emissions testing.

Cars from 1976 to 1984 that were registered as collector cars prior to 2009 and have not let that registration lapse are exempt from emissions testing.

Cars 32 years old that were not registered prior to 2009 must have an initial emissions inspection, then be reinspected every five years, and must not drive more than 4,500 miles per year. Is that clear enough?

Emissions inspections are at government-run facilities. “Wait times are posted online and there’s one about 5 minutes from my house,” Andrew Ganz tells us. “I’ve never waited more than 10 minutes, though it’s ironic that you sit idling outside the facility.”

The second thing to take note of in Colorado – like Arkansas, New Mexico, and a handful of other states – is its titling requirements. If your older car doesn’t have a title, you can still register it with a surety bond, as in many other states. However, if your vehicle is NOT roadworthy, older than 25 years of age, and physically located in Colorado, you can get what’s called a “Rebuilder’s Title” to keep with the car as it’s being restored. Once it’s again in roadworthy shape, you can use that Rebuilder’s Title as the basis to get a clean Colorado title. That’s a unique win for restorers in Colorado.

Unfortunately, Colorado ranks 30^th in commute time and 29^th in road quality, according to US News & World Report.

17. New Mexico

New Mexico Statute 66-3-27 NMSA 1978 lays out the requirements for its “Horseless Carriage” registration. The restrictions are the basic “special events and car shows” type, but there’s no restriction on days of the week or miles per year. It’s kind of odd that a car from 1984 can be registered as a “Horseless Carriage,” but that’s the statute.

The fee is $14.50 for the first five-year registration period, then $9.50 every subsequent five years afterward.

There’s a version of Colorado’s “rebuilder’s title” in New Mexico that allows a car to be restored over time and then inspected at the time of registration for a clean New Mexico title.

New Mexico ranks as #14 in America in terms of short commutes, but unfortunately ranks at #41 for road quality, according to US News & World Report.

15. Arizona

Arizona has up to four special plates for older cars. Classic Car plates are reserved for those recognized by the Classic Car Club of America. Historic Vehicle is for those 25 years old or older. Street Rod is for 1948 or earlier with modifications. Horseless Carriage is for 1915 or earlier. None seem to carry much in the way of major restrictions, which is great in a state where the sun shines most of the year.

Jeff Koch tells us that “Arizona’s emissions standards vary by county. In Maricopa County, where Phoenix is, any car 1975 or later needs emissions testing UNLESS you get collector insurance,  then the emissions requirement is waived. Collector-car or antique plates are not necessary for collector-car insurance,” a nice benefit for Arizona’s Hagerty customers.

He also notes that “Used car buyers who buy from a private seller are not required to pay sales tax on the transaction.”

Road quality puts Arizona in the top 25 percent of US states, while its road quality ranks at #33, according to US News & World Report.

15. Nevada

Nevada’s classic car plates (of which there are SEVEN, by the way) come with an age and mileage restriction. The vehicle has to be 25 years old (or older for Old Timer or Horseless Carriage tags), and can only be driven 5,000 miles a year.

Changes to Nevada’s classic registration program went into effect in 2021. Nevada now requires that anything with a classic vehicle plate also have collector car insurance: “You must show the Declarations page from your insurance policy as proof that the vehicle is covered by Nevada insurance that is specifically designated for classic or antique vehicles and meets the minimum liability coverage. You must submit this at your next renewal or at the time you first obtain plates.”

The weather is generally conducive to old car ownership, the roads are fantastic outside of Las Vegas and you can register a car with a bond if the title is missing. Only relatively high taxation keeps the state out of the running for the best state in the Union for classic ownership.

14. Wyoming

US News & World Report ranked Wyoming #2 for commute time and #3 for road quality in the United States, making this a paradise in the few months the state isn’t buried under the multiple feet of snow it receives.

Classic vehicle restrictions are fairly light, in that the car is only supposed to be used for exhibitions, events, and pleasure driving, but there’s no restriction on the days or mileage one can drive. Plus, the registration fee is a more than reasonable ten bucks. And that appears to be a one-time fee since it doesn’t say “per year” on the application. You can spend $50 for an embossed plate if you like, otherwise, you get one with vinyl letters and numbers affixed.  Sales tax isn’t too terrible at 4% and there’s no safety or emissions requirement to deal with.

Like several other states, everything has to have a title regardless of age, but if it doesn’t you can get a surety bond. It’s just going to cost you, depending on how valuable the car is. And all of the title paperwork happens at the county clerk’s office, rather than at the DMV, meaning you have another trip ahead of you.

13. Ohio

Ohio does have restrictions for Historical vehicle plates, but the requirements don’t seem onerous, and given the fact that you see an awful lot of them around at car shows, they’re probably worth having versus standard registration.

The application notes that the vehicle can’t be used for general transport, but there are no real restrictions on mileage, days of the week, or distance from home: “A historical motor vehicle shall not be used for general transportation, but may be operated on the public roads and highways to and from a location where maintenance is performed on the vehicle.” That’s open to a pretty wide interpretation.

Ohio doesn’t have a safety inspection, and there’s a 25-year cap for emissions requirements, so most of us are out of the woods. Sales tax can get pretty steep when you throw in the 2.25% county tax, but there’s a cap of $700.

11. Idaho

Idaho’s vintage car registration scheme is pretty confusing. For $25 initially – and then $3 every three years afterward – you can get an “Idaho Classic” plate for any vehicle 30 years old or older that hasn’t been modified at all.

That entitles you to ONLY use your vehicle in “exhibits, parades, tours, club activities and such occasional use as is necessary for operation and maintenance of the vehicle.” If you want to drive it for ANY other purpose, you need a regular registration, which ALSO has to be displayed.

Then there’s an “Idaho Old Timer” plate for anything manufactured before January 1, 1943. Again, that dual-plating requirement is the same, meaning you have to pay for two registrations on the same vehicle. Fees are the same as for the “Idaho Classic” plate.

For anything built before 1973, you can also get a Year of Manufacture plate for $25, then $15 per year thereafter.

There’s also a Street Rod plate, for is anything manufactured before 1949 and modified to qualify as a “street rod.” That fee is $25, $15 per year renewal and a plate fee of $6.

Finally, there’s also a Corvette plate but you don’t have to put it on a Corvette. The reason to affix a Corvette plate to your 1988 Mercury Topaz is that it funds children’s programs in the state.

The last time we ran this story, Idaho had some emissions requirements, but the legislature passed a law eliminating all emissions testing in the state as of July 1, 2023.

Idaho has a provision for titling a car more than ten years old that doesn’t have a title. It’s a rather lengthy and detailed procedure, but at least it exists, without the requirement of purchasing an often expensive surety bond. You can read about the Provisional Title procedure here.

Idaho’s traffic ranks 9^th in the US, and its road quality puts it at 19^th.

11. Alaska

Obviously, a lot of Alaska is buried in snow and ice for a good chunk of the year, but otherwise, it’s pretty classic car-friendly. Alaska has two types of plates for people like us: Historic Vehicle plates are for those older than 30 years of age and carry all of the usual restrictions on where and when the vehicle can be used. The bonus is that the plates are only $10 and you don’t have to renew.

Custom Collector Vehicle plates are for vehicles from 1949 or older, or a replica version of those cars. There’s also a pretty stiff set of requirements including hydraulic brakes, sealed beam or halogen headlamps (no mention of LEDs), seat belts for all occupants, turn signals activated by a switch (instead of osmosis or ESP, presumably), safety glass or lexan windows, electric or vacuum wipers, standard or blue dot taillamps, and a parking brake that operates “at least two wheels on the same axle.”

We put an asterisk next to Sales Tax because Alaska has no state sales tax. Depending on where you live, the municipality can charge anywhere from 0% to 7.5% sales tax, though, so be aware of that.

Given its inclement weather, Alaska still ranks pretty high on the US News & World Report roads index, ranking 5^th in the country for commute time, and 28^th in the nation for road quality.

10. Mississippi

Mississippi doesn’t make finding information on vintage vehicle registration all that easy, but the requirements for doing so appear pretty lax. There’s not much on the state’s Department of Revenue site except for the fact that yes, you can get an antique tag, and the fee is $28. We looked for any kind of requirements and couldn’t find any. We’d assume that there’s a year cap, but good luck finding it.

What is clear is that as long as the previous owner had two years’ worth of previous registrations, you don’t need a title. 35.VII.06.1 Part 7, Subpart 6, Chapter 1 of the Mississippi Administrative Code says:

When applying for a Certificate of Title on a used vehicle that has not been previously titled, the following supporting documents must accompany the title application:

1. A certificate copy of Current Bill of Sale.
2. A certified copy of Previous Bill of Sale or certified copy of two years Tag and Tax receipts of previous owner.

There’s no inspection – emission or safety – and you can drive year ‘round, so congrats on a high score, Mississippi.

8. Alabama

Alabama makes it really easy for vintage car owners to register vehicles. According to the Commissioner of Licenses in Calhoun County, Barry E. Robertson’s website, “Automobiles and trucks 35 years old and older do not require titles,” which gets you all the way back to 1988 as of this year. If you don’t catch this in 2023, that creeps up to 1989, a boon, especially for you classic Japanese fans who may have still had to title vehicles from the 1980s.

It has restrictions for vintage tags, but we applied half credit here because the restrictions don’t say anything about weekends and holidays only, or anything about mileage caps. The vehicle only has to be over 30 years old and “operated as a collector’s item, including participation in club activities, exhibitions, tours, parades, and not used for general transportation purposes.”

It’s super cheap, too. The tags are only fifteen bucks, and taxes – including the state tax and any county tax – are 4% at most. It can be lower than that depending upon the county.

The weather in Alabama – outside of hurricanes and tornadoes – is pretty great, averaging less than an inch a year in most parts of the state. The road quality and traffic can be amazing, once you’re outside of Birmingham and Montgomery.

8. Montana

The weather is about the only reason not to be excited to own a vintage car in Montana. The state does impose the normal “special events and parades” restriction for historic plates, which you can research in the appropriate Montana code. Unlike any other state we know of, there’s a rather arbitrary sliding scale based not on age or the type of plate, but on the vehicle’s GROSS WEIGHT. If it’s under the completely rational figure of 2,850 pounds, it’s $25. If it’s over that, it’s $30.  Picture this: You drive a Triumph TR7 with a 2,820-lb. gross weight and your buddy with the TR6 weighs in at 3,042. If you can figure out the reasoning behind his registration costing $5 more, you’re ahead of us.

But other than that, it’s something of a paradise – both in general and for classic car owners.

First and foremost, it doesn’t impose a sales tax on cars at all. The money saved in tax resulted in a cottage industry of shady folks that would set up a Montana LLC specifically to register a car to the company, and then lie about the place where it was domiciled. Don’t do that. You’re begging for (A) an audit and (B) your insurance company to not pay a claim when your car burns up in a garage in New Jersey.

US News and World Report says that Montana ranks #4 in America for short commute times, and #11 in terms of road quality, so you’ll be able to enjoy the car when it’s registered.

6. Oregon

Oregon fares well because of its excellent quality roads, its decent traffic outside the metro areas, and the fact that it doesn’t have a sales tax at all. Depending on where you live you could see a ton of snow, but even then, Oregon doesn’t use salt, so cars and trucks tend to be in relatively rust-free condition after a lifetime of use.

You need to know math to figure out if you can get an antique plate in Oregon, though, so English majors may be out of luck. Here’s how it’s described on the application: “To determine the year model eligible subtract 1900 from the current year and divide that number by two. The vehicle must be this year’s model or older.” This sounds harder than one of those word problems involving trains leaving two cities at the same time.

There’s a title requirement and you can read more about it in Oregon’s general laws. Jeff Zurschmeide notes that registering a classic from out of state requires a VIN inspection. “If you bring a car in from out of state, Oregon requires a VIN inspection. They just make sure the VIN on the dash (or wherever) matches the title. My only VIN challenge was on a 1920 Model T, which didn’t have serial numbers until 1925. They make you go to the State Police station and get approval. Not a problem – Model Ts are not high theft vehicles.”

He also notes that the enforcement of “daily use” is pretty lax. “The DMV will give you a stern warning that cars with SP plates may ONLY be driven on special occasions, such as to car shows or club meetings, or to be serviced and repaired. I suppose if you got ticketed for speeding or something, they might add on charges for improperly driving on SP plates, but I take my ’56 pickup to the lumber yard and haven’t been hassled.”

6. Nebraska

Here’s a novel concept: Nebraska actually provides a decent amount of information on registering a classic vehicle on its website. Finding this information in other states can be a real time sink.

Vehicles with Historic plates are subject to the “parades and special events” restrictions of most other states, but there doesn’t appear to be a mileage cap or a day-of-the-week restriction. It’s a little difficult learning the difference between a Vintage Plate and a Historical Plate, other than that the Historical Plate description says you need to have another vehicle registered with normal passenger vehicle plates.

As far as titles, there’s a fair bit of information worth reading at the DMV’s website. If the car is from 1940 or prior, you may not need a title at all. There are also different titling requirements for “Assembled Classic Motor Vehicles” that are 30 years old and have had significant modifications.

Nebraska ranks #6 in America for commute time and #12 for road quality, so the driving experience can be pleasant, provided you don’t mind going arrow-straight most of the time. The average 30 inches of snow aren’t great, but Nebraska doesn’t use salt on the roads, which makes it a good source of finding decent classic vehicles that haven’t rotted to the roofline.

5. North Dakota

Weather is about the only thing that makes North Dakota a little less appealing for vintage car owners. Yes, it gets more than 50 inches of snow every year, severely restricting the amount of driving time you’ll get, and it’s one of the states in the Salt Belt that treat the roads with the metal-eating substance. But the rest of the state’s vehicle-related attributes are remarkable.

The state does impose usual restrictions on vehicles with Historic plates. Interestingly, North Dakota has “Pioneer” plates for cars older than 40 years of age that don’t seem to carry the same “parade use only” restrictions that the Collector plates do, according to the .pdf on the DMV’s website.  Either is a one-time registration fee — $160 for collector cars and just $10 for Pioneer tags — and there’s no safety or emissions requirement, so you’re in the clear there.

Sales tax is a mid-level 5%. Titles are required, but if you don’t have one, there’s a process requiring an inspection that at least will provide a pathway to legal citizenship. US News & World Report ranked North Dakota #2 in road quality and #3 in commute time, meaning you won’t be spending a lot of your time idling in traffic.

4. Utah

Utah comes in with a strong score, limited only by its relatively high sales tax and the “parades and special events” restrictions on cars registered as classic vehicles.

Classic registration is cheap at just $17 – a buck more than when we first ran this story – and you only pay the fee once as long as the car is registered. There’s also a $4 postage and handling fee. Classic vehicles from model year 1982 or older are exempt from emissions testing. From model year 1983 forward to the rolling 30-year cutoff, emissions testing may be required in counties that require it.

Utah is also great if your vehicle doesn’t happen to have a title. Anything older than 1988 doesn’t need a title at all. You’ll only need a bill of sale to register the vehicle.

Utah has some absolutely spectacular roads, and it ranks 12^th in terms of traffic according to US News & World Report. Its road quality is 21^st in the US according to the publication.

3. Arkansas

Arkansas gets a pretty phenomenal score, falling down only on the sales tax portion of the assessment. Not only does the state ring you up for a relatively high 6.5%, but the county and the city can both wet their beaks, too, adding another percentage point or so to what you owe for the privilege of buying a car.

One interesting note, though. If the car you register costs less than $4,000, you don’t owe a sales tax at all, a boon for us who like to buy beaters and improve them as we drive.

Arkansas does have an antique vehicle plate, but it’s only for vehicles 45 years or older, rather than the 25-year cutoff most states use. The good news is that it’s only seven bucks, and there’s no renewal required.

Arkansas has no safety or emissions inspections and will allow a bonded title if the original title is missing. Add in the fact that the weather is generally good, and the traffic isn’t bad outside of Little Rock and the Land of Opportunity ends up scoring remarkably well.

2. Kentucky

We looked at every form on the Kentucky DMV website and couldn’t find one for antique or historic vehicles, and there isn’t any designation for vintage or classic vehicles on the standard registration form, so registering a vintage car in Kentucky looks like it’s just like registering anything else. Kentucky also offers a title for classic vehicle projects, so you can work on the vehicle until such time as it’s roadworthy, then apply to transfer that to a regular title with no salvage, junk, or rebuilt markings.

That’s not so bad because there isn’t a safety or emissions inspection that a vintage vehicle plate would help you avoid. The sales tax in Kentucky is a moderate six percent, and there’s no excise tax to contend with on an annual basis.

There’s a good explanation of the title procedure on the DMV website that’s worth looking at. If you’re bringing a vehicle 25 years old or older into Kentucky from another state, you don’t necessarily need a title for it. The vehicle can be taken to a sheriff’s office for VIN verification and then the owner can apply for a new Kentucky title.

1. Minnesota

Despite its generally lousy weather, Minnesota wins an excellent score for vintage car friendliness.

Start with the restrictions on vintage tags: None to speak of. The car has to be 25 years old, and you need to have another car registered as a daily driver – which you’d need to have to get Hagerty Classic Car insurance to begin with – but beyond that, there are no other restrictions. If the vehicle you’re registering doesn’t have a title, you can get a bonded title, and you’d get the bond back after three years along with a clean title.

Sales tax on a vintage car is a flat $125 fee, plus $25 in a one-time tax, regardless of how much you paid for the car. That’s a massive savings if your emotions ran high at one of the Arizona auctions and you came home with a $50,000 car. Ordinarily, your tax liability would be $3,000 on a purchase like that.

Add good roads, and relatively easy traffic outside the city and it really adds up to one of the most vintage car-friendly states in the northern part of the country.

So there you have it, classic car owners. Let us know what you think. Are our numbers accurate or do you think your state is way more classic-car-friendly than we’ve given it credit for? Make your case in the comments below … and congratulations, Minnesota.

***

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The post How classic car-friendly is your state? appeared first on Hagerty Media.

The depth of common knowledge of vintage scooters in the United States pretty much stops at Vespa and Lambretta. They are far from the only names in the game, but, to be fair, you can’t talk about vintage scooters without focusing on a few of those truly special machines.

In many parts of the world, scooters are cheap, almost disposable, transportation—machines meant to be used and abused without a second thought. But an enthusiastic community of true aficionados prizes beyond-the-mainstream machines from German, Japan, Russia, and the United States, and the best of them command big money.

We talked to a few serious collectors to compile a list of scooters of the most desirable two-wheelers available today. Our panel includes Jay Holdash, a Massachusetts collector who owns a small stable of scooters from Europe, Japan, and the U.S.; Tom and Anna Giordano of New York, who own some of the rarest rides in existence; and Scott Doering, who lives in New Jersey and focuses exclusively on the rare Jet Age-styled Salsbury scooter built in the U.S. from 1947 to 1950.

1947-1950 Salsbury Model 85

The Salsbury Model 85 was the second scooter in E. Foster Salsbury’s lineup after the 1936 Motor Glide, the world’s first commercially viable motor scooter. The Motor Glide was an instant success, and rivals like Cushman and Moto Scoot quickly followed it with their own models. The Model 85, available in Standard and Deluxe trims, were out of this world. “The Buck Rogers rocketship of motor scooters,” says Jay Holdash, who owns a Standard restoration candidate for which he spent years searching.

“From a valuation standpoint nicely restored scooters can bring up to $15,000. Recently a superbly restored Model 85 and sidecar sold at auction for $22,000,” says Scott Doering, who is the International Salsbury Restorer’s Society webmaster. “If you are looking to acquire one it is best to find one that is complete. Parts are hard to come by. There are a couple guys in the hobby who have amassed large spare parts collections, but other than that a collector is on his own.”

1953-1964 Zundapp Bella

Parts are more readily available for the Zundapp Bella. Zundapp, BMW’s biggest motorcycle competitor in Germany after WWII, started building scooters in 1953. “It’s a fantastic German machine,” says Jay Holdash. “Tough, dependable, beautiful, comfortable.”

The Bella used a 146cc or a 198cc two-stroke engine. Unlike most scooters, which used ten- or even eight-inch steel wheels, the Bella rolled on 12-inch cast aluminum wheels that were a lot less likely to get swallowed by pothole on rough roads. Early bikes featured an undamped, telescopic front fork, but Zundapp soon ditched it for a more sophisticated Earles-type leading link fork with a shock absorber on the left side.

Zundapp built 150,000 Bellas over ten years, which pales in comparison to Vespa, but the popularity of the Bella and the similar Heinkel Tourist fuels a relatively robust parts market. “The Bella interest groups in Germany have put a lot of Bella parts back into production,” says Tom Giordano.

1965-1967 Fuji Rabbit Superflow S601

The Fuji Rabbit holds a unique position in American automotive history. Malcolm Bricklin started selling the scooters, which were built by Subaru’s parent company, in 1966 before offering the Subaru 360 when Fuji couldn’t fill enough Rabbit orders.

Although Fuji offered several different Rabbits, the 200cc two-stroke Superflow S601 is the one to have. It offered a slew of features, including an electric starter and an automatic transmission with an automotive-style fluid torque converter for imperceptible shifting, and rear air suspension.

“Truly the Cadillac of motor scooters,” Holdash says. “They’re slow off the line, but they have plenty of power for cruising, even with two riders. It’s the perfect combination of luxury and usability.”

Despite being produced for just three model years, Rabbit Superflow 601s regularly come up for sale and aren’t ridiculously expensive. In fact, prices have receded somewhat because parts are getting tougher to find, says Tom Giordano.

1957-1959 Lambretta TV175 Series 1

Innocenti was Piaggio’s biggest rival in the scooter biz, and together the two companies cranked out millions of Lambretta and Vespa models over the years. Most of them are thoroughly run-of-the-mill, but the Lambretta TV175 series of bikes that Innocenti introduced in 1957 are something special.

The TV175 set the benchmark for Lambretta’s styling, and the drivetrain was no less impressive. It featured an enclosed chain drive and a four-speed gearbox. “Lambretta pulled out all the stops on this one,” Holdash says. “Drop-dead beautiful styling, a radically different engine design from previous models, it was a real leap to the future.”

Ah, but they weren’t entirely reliable, and were in their day considered something of a failure. Yet collectors prize them as a pinnacle in scooters. “They’re hard to find now, and highly sought after by collectors,” Holdash says. “A correct restoration is very challenging due so many unique parts that weren’t shared with other models.”

Prices reflect their desirability. “TV175s can go for $2500 as barn finds, $3500 as unrestored runners, and $6000-plus fully restored,” says Tom Giordano. An exquisitely restored TV175 Series 1 sold at Bonhams’ Alexandria Place Sale in London last September for $11,420.

1955-1958 Vespa GS 150, models VS1-VS4.

The GS 150 VS5 scooters that Vespa sent to the U.S. were, as Holdash notes, wonderful machines. But the earlier models are more rare and, to his mind, represent the pinnacle of classically styled Vespa motor scooters.

There were other ideas for scooters at the time, like Lambretta and Zundapp suggest. Those scooters hung steel bodywork off of a tubular steel backbone, and as a result end up looking blocky and— for lack of a better word—masculine. The Vespa is the classic scooter design and it comes from the fact that it’s a monocoque design. The pressed steel bodywork is the frame itself, and the engine and transmission are one single cast unit. The only additional bodywork is the front fender and the rear engine cowl and luggage compartment, all gorgeously sculpted and emblematically Italian.

The GS 150 goes those early Vespa scooters one better, with bodywork even rounder and more voluptuous than the standard models, topped by a long, two-up seat in place of the single saddle and passenger pad. At the time, lesser Vespas had chrome handlebars with exposed shifter and brake cables, but the GS 150’s handlebars were a cast aluminum unit which hid the cables in a tunnel that ran through the body. All Vespas got these handlebars after 1958. Mechanically, it got the first four-speed gearbox in a Vespa, plus higher compression and a bigger 23mm carburetor for eight horsepower, versus the lesser bike’s 5.4.

The “VS” is indicated at the beginning of the scooter’s frame number: VS1 came in 1955, and VS4 ended up on bikes produced in 1958. The VS5 arrived in 1961. Tom Giordano says that the GS market remains strong even as the market for lesser Vespa models recedes. “Today, the Allstates (rebadged Vespa scooters sold through Sears in the 1950s and 1960s) and project vintage Vespas in barn-find condition are more like $500 to $1000 max. Running and driving, but unrestored, maybe $1500.” On the other hand, a GS project, could easily run in the $2000 to $3000 range, needing full restoration.

1954-1958 Rumi Formichino

Italians seem to love naming scooters after bugs. After all, Vespa is Italian for “wasp,” and that’s exactly what they look like. Formichino means “little ant,” and that’s pretty much exactly what you get with these rare bikes built from 1954 to 1958. They enjoyed a rabid fanbase in their day, due to their tremendous success in sprint and endurance racing, including the 24 hour Bal d’Or at Montlhéry, France.

These wildly overengineered machines use cast aluminum chassis sections. The 125cc horizontal, air-cooled twin was a stressed member of the chassis. Despite the aesthetic qualities of some of their engines, most scooter manufacturers were hiding their engines behind sheetmetal cowls. The Formichino’s attractive aluminum engine cases are proudly on display between the rider’s feet.

Rumi offered the Formichino in two models: the standard bike, and the Tipo Sport, which featured a larger carburetor, a less restrictive exhaust and higher compression. “The engine is a watchmaker’s delight, intricate and clever design and a packs a wallop for such a small size,” says Holdash.

Collectors have watched the value of these machines go off the charts, even though the market is dominated by a tiny bunch of passionate enthusiasts. “Twenty years ago, I used to balk at paying $2000 for a good complete project,” says Tom Giordano. “Now you can’t get a good complete project for less than $6000. Runners that used to go for that now go for $10,000 or more. And that’s a normal Formichino, not a Sport model.”

1956-1965 Vjatka VP150

The Vjatka VP150 looks like a photocopy of a Vespa created by a machine running low on toner. In 1956, Russian gramophone manufacturer VPMZ started work on its own motor scooter, essentially reverse-engineering a Vespa. Like the Vespa, it features a steel monocoque with a horizontally-mounted two-stroke single, a three-speed transmission and a fork with the wheel mounted to the side. Despite the similar DNA, the two machines don’t share a single part.

These come up for sale from time to time, but rarely in the United States. The last one we’re aware of sold for just over $4500 in RM/Sotheby sale of the Bruce Weiner Collection in 2013. The Vjatka VP150 & Other Russian Scooters page on Facebook shows a restored example for sale in Poland for €5500, about $6250 in U.S. dollars.

1952 Ducati Cruiser

The Ducati Cruiser is a stunner. Carrozzeria Ghia styled Ducati’s first scooter, which debuted at the Milan Fair in 1952. The engineering was no less remarkable. At a time when every scooter manufacturer used two-stroke engines, the Cruiser featured a four-stroke, overhead valve 175cc engine. It also had a three-speed automatic transmission mounted behind the engine in an aluminum case that looked like a miniature TH350. The Cruiser started with the flick of a switch which, although not unprecedented at the time, was certainly rare.

Ducati built just 1200 Cruisers. A check of all the usual sources (auction houses, eBay, etc.) reveals none for sale at the moment, and nothing to go on in terms of recent sale values.

1953 – 1965 Heinkel Tourist

The Tourist was the other big German two-up touring scooter, along with the Zundapp Bella. These durable machines could carry two people from one side of the country to the other in comfort and style. A Tourist did exactly what when Peter Beagle rode across the U.S. in 1964, an adventure he recounted in his book I See By My Outfit.

Although the Tourist never quite caught on in the states, it was very popular in Germany. Heinkel built 55,000 of the last series alone–the 103 A2, produced from 1960 through 1965. The Tourist still enjoys a healthy following. “Bellas and Heinkels are good value for money for a collector or even a rider who wants something unusual,” says Tom Giordano. “This has a lot to do with parts availability. The Heinkel Club Deutschland is still in existence and can supply anything you need.”

Tourists come up fairly regularly for sale. Last May, a nice, two-owner 1965 103 A2 sold for $5100 on Bring a Trailer.

1941 Crocker Scootabout

The Crocker Motorcycle Company in Los Angeles built some of the most highly coveted two-wheelers of the 20th century. Yet few people know the company also dabbled in scooters with the 1941 Crocker Scootabout. The step-through scooter, designed by Al Crocker and distributed by Floyd Clymer, featured one-up seating, a centrifugal clutch, and a 2.3-hp engine hidden behind a teardrop-shaped cowling pressed from sheet metal. The original press release boasted about the Scootabout’s “Tow-Back attachment is available for use in attaching the unit to car bumpers.”

Want one? Pffft. Good luck. “Fantastic art deco styling, and super rare,” Holdash says. “My favorite American scooter other than the Salsbury Model 85. Rare to the point I’ve never seen one in person.”

The post 10 collectible scooters you definitely need in your life appeared first on Hagerty Media.

When Chris Benjamin, Jeep head of interior design, said at the launch of the 2020 Jeep Gladiator that “the Jeep brand has an amazing, storied history that we’re able to pull from,” he wasn’t kidding. Inspiration for the new Gladiator came from several points in Jeep history—from the seven-slat grille, to the logo, to the CJ-inspired dash pad. In many ways, however, the Gladiator distances itself from the CJ-8 Scrambler mini-truck that so many remember from the 1980s. And it does so on purpose.

In fact, looking around the presentation room at a winery in Sacramento, where Jeep showed off the truck to media ahead of test drives, there isn’t a CJ-8 in sight. Jeep’s last pickup from 27 years ago—a 1992 Comanche Pioneer with just 10 miles on the odometer—is there. A low-mileage, 100-percent original Scrambler is not. Not once in the presentations by six Jeep executives, designers, and engineers did anyone mention the last pickup was based on the brand’s most successful, recognized model. And the new pickup’s name comes from the way-back 1962 Jeep Gladiator, which eventually became the J-Series after 1970.

“The debates we had internally when it comes to naming? It was not a short discussion,” says Scott Tallon, Jeep brand director. “It’s emotional. We looked to the past because we had a lot of great trucks over the years, and this one… we felt that Gladiator was almost the perfect fit for it.”

For at least 20 years, there has been incessant discussion in chat rooms, fan groups, and Internet forums that Jeep needed to reintroduce a CJ-8 Scrambler—the CJ-based pickup sold from 1981–86. In the decades since it went away, the CJ-8 has become the gold-plated member of the CJ family, good for five-figure sums even in the days prior to the dot-com bubble. A quick scan of results at Bring A Trailer shows clean, original, unmodified CJ-8’s selling in the $20,000–$28,000 range, which is in line with Hagerty’s valuation numbers. Average value for a 1983 model is $14,400, while a #1-condition Concours-quality ’83 Scrambler is $30,500.

The voices got louder and more insistent when Jeep itself showed concepts like the JK8 Independence at the Easter Jeep Safari, fueling speculation that a JK-based Scrambler successor was in the works.

Until now, however, the only real product available was from the aftermarket, where companies like DV8 OffRoad built Scrambler-like pickups on JK-generation Wrangler chassis and running gear. For the CJ-8 faithful, those specially built Wrangler-based pickups were great, even if they weren’t official Jeep issue.

The Gaucho that started it all

The irony is that those modern, cottage-industry CJ-8 wannabes actually share more with the original Scrambler concept than most people realize.

The idea for the Scrambler launched back in 1977, when Jeep dealer and legendary off-road racer Brian Chuchua was without a product to sell at the height of the mini-truck boom. “Jeep says there’s no market for a small pickup truck,” Chuchua told Four Wheeler magazine that year. “But I say there is.”

Chuchua set out to prove it by using a long-wheelbase CJ-6 chassis with a CJ-7 tub cut into a two-seat cab. He purchased beds from California Mini Truck, and in no time, Brian Chuchua’s Jeep Center in Placentia, California, was in the mini-truck business—a CJ-7 and $2000 could get you a Gaucho in 1978, three years before Jeep introduced the Scrambler. The Gaucho received coverage in Four Wheeler and Off-Road magazine, and it didn’t go unnoticed at Jeep.

Chuchua was on to something. There was a huge market for mini-trucks, and Jeep was way behind with an offering to counter the Ford Courier, Chevy LUV, and other Japanese-based offerings.

The Scrambler arrives, but fails

While Chuchua went full Gaucho, AMC watched as the entire mini-truck market passed it by. It didn’t have the captive import relationship with a manufacturer that could spool up a quick competitor, and it didn’t have the ready cash to build one from scratch.

According to AMC/Jeep historian Patrick Foster, when Jeep finally got the CJ-8 Scrambler project in gear, the product was conceived as a more upscale competitor to the mini-trucks.

It didn’t arrive until 1981, but the CJ-8 Scrambler certainly looked the part, and developing it as a longer-wheelbase version of the CJ-7 wouldn’t have cost Jeep much of anything in those days. It featured a 103.5-inch wheelbase—10 inches longer than a CJ-7. And the media certainly dug it. Car and Driver called it “a long-awaited dose of refinement to pavement Jeeping.” Ronald Reagan liked it enough to get one for his ranch. Still, the CJ-8 sold in pretty grim numbers. In 1981, 8355 found homes across the country, and by 1985, Jeep sold only 2015 of them. In the Scrambler’s final year in 1986, there were only 128 takers.

Foster—who began his career selling AMC/Jeep products in the 1960s and 1970s—notes that Jeep simply couldn’t pull off the value proposition that the imports could. “They were pretty expensive,” Foster says, reading off the starting MSRP of a base CJ-8 in 1981: $7288 with a soft top and painted steel wheels (that’s about $21,217 today). And that was before you went up the Renegade and Laredo ladder, which offered some of the stylish add-ons that most consumers liked about the truck.

Pretty quickly, you could be up around $10,000 ($29,112 today), a ton of money in the early-Reagan era, especially when Datsun was offering a 2WD 720 pickup truck for $6000 ($17,467 today).

The CJ-8 was for a different customer than the cheap mini-truck, and in the depths of the Malaise Era, there simply wasn’t enough demand, outside certain pockets of America. Foster sold Jeeps in the verdant Connecticut suburbs of Manhattan and managed to sell quite a few to the well-heeled for use in the Hamptons or the Vineyard.

Fool me once, shame on you…

Probably the biggest lesson for the 2020 Gladiator’s product planners learned from the CJ-8’s  less-than-stellar sales: know your audience.

The mini-truck market is gone, and it’s not coming back. The trucks that now occupy the space that mini-trucks once occupied are much larger, much more powerful, more complex, and way more expensive. Trucks—no matter what the size—are rarely considered a cheap alternative to an economy car. The cheapest Toyota Tacoma, for example, starts at $25,700, while the cheapest car in Toyota’s product line, the Yaris, is $10,000 less.

Pickup buyers want capability, but they also want features and aren’t afraid to spend money to get them.

Now, though, the Gladiator—especially in Sport and Sport S trims—aims to compete directly with the kinds of midsize trucks that Americans already buy. (Look out Tacoma, Colorado, and upcoming Ranger.) Yet the Gladiator is unlike any vehicle in the market: a go-anywhere off-road vehicle with removable top and doors, with the utility of a pickup bed. It’s a single vehicle that meets a whole lot of wants and needs in a crowded pickup market.

That’s exactly what the CJ-8 aimed for, but it swung and missed the market. The Gladiator hits it square on the slatted-grille nose.

The post The 2020 Jeep Gladiator pickup is not the CJ-8 Scrambler reborn, and that’s by design appeared first on Hagerty Media.

The legend of the Chevrolet Blazer is well established, and known to many enthusiasts: Ford introduces Bronco in ‘65 as a 1966 model year, in a fit of equine-themed offerings starting with the Mustang. Dearborn enjoys wild success for four model years while Chevrolet/GMC sits on its hands and waits for the commotion to blow over before introducing its own sport-utility vehicle, the K5 Blazer and Jimmy.

On the 50th anniversary year of the original K5 Blazer, an all-new Blazer hits the showroom. It’s a shadow of its former (cool) K5 self, but its arrival is a good opportunity to set the record straight about the development of the K5 Blazer and what was going on in those long four model years before GM finally introduced a two-door SUV of its own.

These photos, courtesy of the GM Media Archive, show that GM was contemplating a completely different direction for the Blazer—one that could have packed on a few sales in those years when the company simply had no competitive product to take on the Bronco. But how much of a difference would it have made?

The crowded field

Let’s backtrack to the years before August 1965, when Ford officially launched the Bronco. The idea was that the Bronco was a literal “stablemate” to the Mustang, conceived by the major players who greenlit the pony car: Donald Frey (supervising product manager) and Lee Iacocca (vice president of all Ford cars and trucks).

The brief for the vehicle that Ford developed wasn’t really new, especially with the International Harvester and Jeep already in the market. It was new for Ford, though, and it featured several advantages over existing competitors. The big difference was a standard inline-six-cylinder engine, when many vehicles in this class had four-cylinders as either the base or only available engine. Add in the availability of a 289-cubic inch V-8 and the Bronco left the gate with a major powertrain advantage.

Still, the Bronco trotted into a saturated field of what were considered off-road vehicles. The 400-pound gorilla was the Jeep CJ5, which wasn’t new, but had an all-new Buick Dauntless V-6 that countered the gripes that the Hurricane four-cylinder didn’t have the gusto to work as an on-road vehicle. International Harvester had its own updated contender with the all-new Scout 800 for 1965. It didn’t look all that revised but had a host of creature-comfort improvements including bucket seats, better heat, more complete instrumentation and an available 232-cu in inline six. IH would offer its own 266-cu-in V-8 to counter Ford in 1967.

If you were an ambitious off-road vehicle shopper, Ford, Jeep, and IH were just the start. By 1965, the FJ40 Land Cruiser was the best-selling Toyota in the United States. Nissan made a few inroads with its own second-generation Patrol. British Land Rovers had been selling in the United States since the 1950s, and with the introduction of the Series IIa in 1961, it came with a much more reliable 12-volt, negative-ground electrical system.

GM’s pre-Blazer prototype

GM was paying close attention to what these competitors offered. “We knew there was something happening here,” said Harry Bentley Bradley in a terrific, wide-ranging interview about Chevrolet truck design in the May 2003 issue of Classic Trucks.

Bradley and the Chevrolet Truck Studio quickly clay modeled its own Bronco/CJ/Scout/FJ/Patrol/Land Rover competitor, which is the Blazer you see in these photos.

Bradley notes that this Blazer concept shared nothing (presumably other than a powertrain) with any other Chevy product, and it’s abundantly clear that it shares nothing with the C10 pickup, in particular. The concept rides on a wheelbase much closer to the 97 inches between the wheels of the Bronco. It’s also much narrower than the C10, again to fit a similar footprint as the Jeep CJ and the rest of the competitive field..

Bradley suggests that this pre-K5 Blazer, which could’ve hit the streets and trails as quickly as 1968, was a lot further along than these studio mockups suggest. “It was fully engineered, completely tooled, and it was gorgeous!” he told Jim Ault in 2003. “I mean, brochures were done. The tooling was finished. Pre-production prototypes were tested. It was like this far away from being at the Chevrolet showrooms in 1968.”

In the Classic Trucks interview, there’s no mistaking Bradley’s frustration that those long-standing designer and engineer foils—the accountants—killed the project. “We thought that little thing was just glorious. It was a really beautiful, truck-like piece and then suddenly it was cancelled. I was so disgusted when they scrapped it that I did [a] rendering just as a slam against corporate decision-making.”

In Bradley’s eyes, the decision to pass on the design was a huge missed opportunity for GM. “Then all of a sudden the sales on Broncos, Scouts and the Jeepster [Commando] went up like gangbusters.”

Keeping it all in perspective

“Gangbusters” is a huge stretch, though, if you take a look at the actual sales numbers. Despite being a sport-utility icon and a benchmark in Ford design, the numbers for the Bronco were not great. In the ‘64 ½ and ‘65 model years, Ford blew out 686,000 Mustangs. For 1966, Ford sold just 23,776 Broncos in all three body configurations, according to data provided from Tom Commero at Hemmings Motor News. A year later, that number dropped to 14,130. In the years later, Bronco sales would always hover around 20,000 units a year.

That’s almost exactly as successful as the International Harvester Scout 800. In 1965, I-H sold 20,216 Scout 800s (with a few remaining Scout 80s in the mix). Same story at Jeep: Between 1965 and 1969, the American icon only broke the 20,000 unit mark twice. Land Rover, Toyota and Nissan wouldn’t sell that many Series IIas, FJs, and Patrols combined.

If you’re a GM executive looking at Ford selling as many Broncos as I-H sold Scout 800s, that has to look like an act you do not want to follow.

It’s not unheard for GM to sell a vehicle on a completely separate platform in 1965; just take a look at the Corvair. But doing so requires volume. Chevrolet sold more than 237,000 Corvairs in 1965. Harry Bentley Bradley commented: “GM management suddenly said ‘Look [laughs] there’s not nearly enough buyers out there to support International, Jeep, and now Ford. If Chevy comes out, nobody’s going to buy it.’”

And they were 100 percent on the money. That market was completely and demonstrably saturated.

Blazer flavor

When it finally introduced a K5 Blazer in 1969, Chevy hit on a formula that made sense: A shortened version of an existing vehicle that wouldn’t cost a lot in development; one that could double as a daily driver for a lot more Americans than a Bronco ever could. The first generation K5 Blazer wasn’t an instant success, selling just a few thousand units the first year, but by its last year in 1972, it sold twice as many units as the Bronco did in its best year ever. In 1973 and 1974, the second-generation K5 sold more than 175,000 units.

Ford would find itself in the same position between 1973 and 1977 as GM was when the Bronco launched, watching from the sidelines without a competitive product. Only this time, those sales represented real numbers. Ford finally introduced a full-size Bronco in 1978. In its second of a two-year production run, Ford quintupled the best sales year of the 1966 to 1977 Bronco.

Ford never looked back. The full-size SUV was here to stay.

The post The old-school Chevrolet Blazer that never was appeared first on Hagerty Media.

In the 1970s, full-size SUVs were the personal luxury coupes of the truck world.

Today’s SUVs come in all shapes and sizes, but that wasn’t always the case. The concept of a two-door, four-wheel-drive sport utility vehicle was rooted in the Willys Jeep Station Wagon. Launched in 1946, the Jeep wagon sold in respectable numbers through 1965, two years after Jeep introduced the Wagoneer. Ford launched the Jeep CJ- and International Scout-fighting Bronco in 1966, while GM’s station-wagon-on-a-truck-chassis Suburban — in both three-door and four-door form — had been around since 1935.

BLAZING THE TRAIL
CJs, Scouts and Broncos were successful to a degree, but the audience for square, Spartan, purpose-built, open-top, four-wheel-drive runabouts was pretty thin. There’s at least one grainy photo on the Internet of Chevrolet’s attempt to build a Bronco/CJ/Scout competitor. Like those three, it’s small, with a short, open bed that passed through to the passenger compartment, and it has sculpted door openings in place of actual hard doors.

But the genius of the new Blazer was its break from the sportiest of sport-utility vehicles. Instead of heavy investment in a bespoke chassis and body panels, for the 1969 model year (and in 1970 for the GMC Jimmy), Chevrolet opted to build the Blazer the same way it did the Suburban, straight off of the C/K line of pickups. The only concession to the design of the CJ and Scout was the fully removable top. It shared almost all of its panels with the C/K pickups or the Suburban, making the higher-priced Blazer a cash cow.

Chevrolet and GMC updated the C/K pickups drastically in 1973, and the Blazer and Jimmy were ready right out of the gate. Along with the boxier styling on the exterior, the inside was transformed into a much more modern truck. The flat steel dash and suggestion of a dash pad went away, in favor of a full foam dash and smaller gauges in a black plastic panel. Earlier Blazers had essentially the same seats and console as the 1969 to ’72 Blazers, but as the years rolled on, the interiors got more sophisticated, with high-back bucket seats and consoles with cupholders.

Americans got it almost immediately. In the first two years of the redesign, Chevy sold 178,000 Blazers alone. Compare that with Ford’s Bronco, which only managed to sell 22,000 units in its best year between 1966 and 1977. Chevrolet hit on a design that would carry on virtually unchanged for the next 19 years. And while GM transformed its pickup line in 1988, the Blazer would carry on until 1992, before finally giving way to the new styling and, three years later, Tahoe badging.

It may not have looked like it from the outside, but the Blazer went through continuous evolution, mostly to maximize fuel economy and convenience. Equipped with a 5.0-liter V-8 and electronic spark control, the Blazer was turning in fuel economy numbers identical to the 4.1-liter six-cylinder version, and beating Ford’s V-8 by 2 mpg city, and 1 mpg highway. In 1981, the Blazer received a new part-time transfer case that was 50 pounds lighter than the original. Automatic locking hubs became standard, too, meaning that you could shift from 2WD to 4WD on the fly at up to 25 mph, thanks to a synchronized transfer case, all without getting out to switch the hubs. Bronco drivers still had to stop to engage 4WD and lock the hubs.

Blazers built from 1969 to 1972, and then from 1973 to 1975, featured fully removable fiberglass tops that left just the windshield header in place. Beginning in 1976, Blazer roofs were still removable, but only behind the front passenger compartment. Chevrolet also re-worked the floor in the rear passenger compartment, allowing a rear passenger footwell.

THE BRONCO GROWS UP
Ford had a similar idea to use the F-Series pickups as the basis for the Bronco in 1972, when Richard Nesbitt was assigned to the Light Truck and Tractor studio at Ford Design. According to Nesbitt, “Ford Product Planning wanted a direct competitor — code named ‘Shorthorn’ — for the Chevrolet Blazer based on pickup truck components.”

Chevrolet’s issue with the 1973 and 1974 Blazer was at the forefront of the design directive Nesbitt was given. “Chevrolet trimmed the window frames off for the Blazer for an unobstructed view with the top off. Severe leakage resulted with the top on, and Ford insisted on using the F-Series doors with uncut window frames,” he says. Rather than just scribing a vertical line where the roof and the fiberglass top met, Nesbitt suggested something more stylish: “My design proposals… incorporated a fixed metal top for the front roof with a wrapover roof band to visually separate the fixed roof and the removable fiberglass top.”

The approved design — especially when you see Nesbitt’s original sketches — almost gave the Bronco a targa-like appearance. “The F-Series Bronco became a very iconic design, with the trademark roof band feature, which continued all the way to 1996,” Nesbitt says. “I’m very proud it is so well liked and lasted so long.”

The trouble for Ford was that it couldn’t get the design off the ground for years. The Blazer sold well from 1969 to 1972, and Ford had its eyes on launching its own F-Series-based sport utility long before the truck actually hit the market. “The F-Series Bronco was planned for 1974–75,” says Nesbitt, “but the oil embargo delayed introduction to 1978.”

Nesbitt left Ford Design before the Bronco was launched in 1978, but by that point, an all-new Ford F-Series was on the way for 1980. That only left two years before the Bronco would have to be redesigned, but with Chevrolet and GMC selling Blazers and Jimmys by the trainload, Ford needed a product, and fast.

In 1977 — the last year of original Bronco production — Ford barely managed to sell 14,500 of them. But the new-for-’78 Bronco was an immediate success, and sales shot up to more than 77,000, with 104,000 the second year, which would be a high-water mark for Bronco sales. Ford would never come within 35,000 sales of its 1979 record.

In 1980, Nesbitt’s roof design continued as a Bronco hallmark, but the new version of the truck was more chiseled, sleeker, lighter and seemed more at home with the rectangular headlamps that always looked like an afterthought in the original Bronco. Broncos built in 1978 and ’79 used a solid front axle and leaf springs, just like the Blazer. But in 1980, Ford opted for the unique Dana 44 Twin Traction Beam (TTB) front independent suspension on coil springs. The TTB offers a higher degree of control both on- and off-road, but it severely limits tire sizes. Increasing the size of the stock tires makes the Bronco difficult to align properly.

When the 1980 Bronco appeared, it was 300 pounds lighter and powered by the standard workhorse 300-cid inline-six. Optional engines included the 302-cid V-8 (with about the same torque as the six) and the last remaining stock of 351M V-8s until 1982, when Ford made the switch to the 351W.

Ford made two significant updates to the 1980s-era Bronco. In 1987, the body was made smoother and more aero-friendly, such as it is, with massive composite headlamps, and the interior was significantly revised to be more modern. The body changed again in 1992 and would carry through unchanged to the end of the line in 1996.

RAM TOUGH
The earliest Dodge Ramchargers — and their rare Plymouth Trail Duster cousins — put the “utility” in “sport utility.” In 1974, the standard seating configuration was a single driver’s seat. Passenger seats were optional, putting the Ramcharger at the bottom of the price ladder among full-sized SUVs.

Like the Blazer and Bronco, the Ramcharger was based on the brand’s full-size pickup entry. The short wheelbase D-Series trucks provided the mechanicals and design. To stack up against the Chevrolet, GMC and Ford competitors, the Ramcharger also had a fully removable roof, but unlike the early Blazer, the Ramcharger used full D-Series doors that left the window frames in place when the top was off.

That top was different from those of the Blazer and Bronco, too, primarily because it was optional; the base Ramcharger came with a soft top only. Dodge marketing called out the optional steel top as an advantage in its marketing to dealers. Unlike the Blazer and Bronco, which were only available with black or white fiberglass tops, buyers could order a Ramcharger or Trail Duster with body-colored tops, or painted and textured finishes in black or white.

To keep costs down, the Ramcharger shared many parts with the D-Series, including double-walled construction in the bed, which the Blazer and the Bronco lacked.

Dodge also positioned the Ramcharger’s engine choices as an advantage, at least for the earliest trucks. By 1978, Ford only built the Bronco with the 351-cid and 400-cid V-8s. Chevrolet and GMC SUVs had the 250-cid six-cylinder and three V-8 choices. Dodge, however, offered six engines, from the 225-cid six-cylinder all the way up to the 440-cid V-8 on four-wheel-drive Ramchargers.

Similarly, Dodge applied the range of D-Series transmissions to the Ramcharger: Choices included a three-speed manual, a wide- or close-ratio four-speed manual, and the LoadFlite three-speed automatic in the Dodge, versus a three-speed manual, four-speed manual and three-speed auto in the Blazer, and just a four-speed manual and three-speed auto in the Bronco.

In 1980, Dodge redesigned the D-Series and the Ramcharger with it. Given that few people removed the tops, beginning with the 1981 model year, Dodge and Plymouth opted to build the Ramcharger/Trail Duster with a fixed steel roof. If a buyer planned on using the fiberglass tailgate the way one would at a football game, the Ramcharger’s hatch offered the advantage of weather protection. The Trail Duster would only make it one year with the new DSeries design before it was dropped completely.

Like the Blazer, the Ramcharger also offered a 2WD version, while the Bronco was only available with 4WD. Meanwhile, sales figures showed that the rear-drive Blazer and Ramcharger weren’t favored by anyone except for fleet managers in the Southwest.

FULL-SIZE SWAN SONG
Throughout their run, Broncos, Blazers and Ramchargers were a part of the fabric of American culture, especially as city dwellers decamped for the suburbs. From Chief Brody’s squad car in Jaws and Texas Ranger Lone Wolf McQuade’s patrol unit to O.J. Simpson’s “escape” vehicle, full-size, two-door SUVs became the symbol of individualism straight through the 1970s and deep into the 1990s.

By the early 1980s, though — just 10 years after they were introduced — full-size, two-door SUVs became victims of their own success. Buyers loved the utility and the rugged looks, but all three trucks were among the most expensive vehicles in their respective manufacturers’ lines. In 1983, Chevrolet launched the smaller S10 Blazer, and immediately, full-size Blazer sales took a major hit. Within a year, S10 Blazers were selling at a rate of 88,000 units a year, while full-size Blazers were stuck around 26,000. Ford introduced the Bronco II the same year, and the story was identical. In 1985, Ford sold more than 105,000 Bronco IIs, while the full-size Bronco couldn’t break 50,000. By 1988, the Bronco II was outselling the Bronco three to one.

A 1993 Ford Bronco sales training video tells the full story: At that time, Ford Bronco owned 59.5 percent of the full-size SUV market, but the market had dwindled to fewer than 75,000 trucks for Ford, GM and Dodge combined. Ford had already added the Explorer to its lineup to replace the Bronco II, and it appealed to a completely different consumer — younger, family oriented, female. According to the video: “Bronco buyers are generally older males who need a durable, contemporary utility vehicle to support their macho self-image.” Talk about the kiss of death.

Chevy made one final attempt with a full-size, two-door Blazer in the GMT400 platform, which gave way to the Tahoe and GMC Yukon in 1995. They lasted until the GMT800 platform arrived in 2001, when Chevrolet built a two-door prototype, but never marketed it. Ford exited the full-size, two-door SUV market in 1996, with final-year Bronco sales at just over 34,000 units. Dodge left the segment in 1994, as it was set to launch the new generation Ram pickups. The Ramcharger sold just 3,687 units that year.

Today, their legacy may still be viewed as described by the Ford sales training video: Macho. But their rugged, no-frills looks and go-anywhere functionality will support nearly any endeavor you can throw at them.

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